idle is perfect when fuse removed
#1
idle is perfect when fuse removed
When I remove the eccs 7.5 fuse that's under the hood idle is perfect at 750 rpm and in drive idle is also smooth at 750. But when I put it back it idle at 650 in park and then 500 in drive. What's up with that.
Last edited by Maxima 97 SE; 10-06-2013 at 08:06 AM.
#4
That fuse powers several things:
ECU (partially)
MAF sensor
crankshaft flywheel sensor CKPS(POS)
IACV
Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
I would have thought the engine would have died when you pulled that fuse.
ECU (partially)
MAF sensor
crankshaft flywheel sensor CKPS(POS)
IACV
Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
I would have thought the engine would have died when you pulled that fuse.
#5
I want to know should I remove that fuse and leave it out or should I leave that 7.5 eccs fuse in. The fuse is good but if I leave it in the car idles at 650 in park and then idles at 550 to 500 in drive and every thing shakes really bad and it sounds like it wants to stall but it doesn't. All sensors good new iacv and throttle body cleaned as well. If I remove the fuse Idle is at 750 in park and 750 in drive and it runs great. What should I do leave the fuse as is or leave it out.
#10
No the idle in park is perfect and really smooth but the problem is only in drive meaning when in gear its low and that fuse makes up for that bad idle and ive tried the iacv and does not make any difference in the idle speed in drive, it just makes it idle higher in park.
#11
When I take the fuse out it idle at 800 rpm in park and drive or reverse and with it in it idles at 650 rpm and 600 in drive or reverse. But with it out it seems too idle smoother. So the question is leave it in or out.
#14
Replace your main motor mounts that sit on the cross member, especially the electrical one. Get OEM because it will work the best to suppress the shakes at idle.
Or, get a 5-speed maxima and never have to deal with this issue in the first place.
#16
I got the problem fixed. Apparently if I take out the fuse it makes the car idle higher than normal which is not and I think it controls a few sensor like maf which is why the idle seemed higher because the maf wasn't operating and the computer was using its prerecorded setting which was bad. Now the car idle really smooth no shakes or nothing. In Park 650 to 700 and in drive 625 to 600 which is where it is supposed when it comes from factory. Now the car runs really good and I get more gas millage now. $20.00 gives me about 130 miles with city and highway driving which before I would barely get 100 miles. Now that seems pretty good to me for a v6. Hopefully no more issues. Everything works great now.
#17
#18
hmm sounds normal now, mine idles between 600-650 somtimes 700 when coming to a stop and 800-900 in park. . but doesn't really shake or anything.. so it seems normal. thought it was suppose to be 800-900 like u said, but I guess the reason why the idle is much lower than most cars is to save gas?
#19
At one time my idle was high like your 800-900 and the radiator would come on constantly but not anymore. For the last few days I have not seen it come on as much as it did with a high idle. Plus when I brake my car now it is really smooth and stops right where I want it where before the car would still go forward a little which was because of the high idle. Plus less stress on the transmission.
#21
what i did to fix it was adjusting the correct idle speed which is 700 rpm in park or neutral. Discoonect the tps and allow the car to idle for about 10 seconds after it has been fully warmed and throttle the car to 2000 rpm about 2 timnes and see where it idles. Stock factory idle speed is 700 and adjust it from the iacv which had a little black screw on the top for adjustments and you should feel your car running good and smooth and seeing some gas improvements.
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