back2basics

iTrader: (4)

I'm currently going through a crazy issue with my car, and by currently I mean it has been driving me nuts for a long time and through a lot of hard work and money.

I have a problem with steering wheel shake that starts right at 73mph, no joke, right at 73 mph this ***** starts shaking.

I have 178,000 on my '96 Maxima 5 speed

I have replaced:
Struts (KYB G2 at 125k)
Strut mounts and bearings (at 160k)
Springs (Eibach Pro)
Stabilizer bar bushings (ES)
End links (oem)
Lower control arms and bushings (oem)
Ball Joints (oem)
Steering rack (with a '99)
Steering pump ('99 also)
Steering rack bushings (oem)
Tie rod ends (oem)
Rotors (12.6 front 12.3 rear)
Wheels (17x8 Rota G-force)
Tires (235/45-17 Michelin Pilot AS3)
Pass. side axle and carrier bearing (hand built at rocky mtn. driveline)
Drivers side axle with stabilizer ring (same as above)
Wheel bearings and seals (Timken with oem seals)
Road force balance
4 wheel alignment
Motor mounts (front and rear with oem mount and ES bushing) and the right side, not the left yet.
all have been inspected but the left is tough to see.

The problem existed before the new axles and after, same for the bearings, same for the strut mounts and bearings, same for the tires, unsure about the wheels but Discount Tire says they are fine and I have rotated them every way possible and it still does it, so doubt that's an issue.

I'm not sure what else is left to do on this thing as literally every single item up front is new but yet it still shakes.

If I take it up to 73mph or above it will shake, more prominently while subtly turning to the right as in changing lanes or taking an exit ramp at higher speed, not so much to the left.

If I am cruising at 70 it's solid as a rock but will still have a very slight shake if i turn slightly right. While cruising at 70, if I speed up to about 80 or so, it will not shake while accelerating but as soon as I level off and set the cruise it will shake.

I felt that it might be the left axle as it does it while turning right, but it did it before this axle and still does it.

With every piece I have replaced the car has changed from a loose, body rolling mess, to a rock solid car...right up until this shake happens.

The steering is heavy and tight like new, the suspension doesn't bang or bounce or crash over bumps. It brakes straight and true and the same goes for the tracking on the road, dead-on straight.

It is a maddening issue and one that has had me close to selling the car many times but after all the work and money it makes it very difficult to let go.

One or two things that have crossed my mind is possibly a transmission issue that transfers up to the suspension? (but why would it only do it on one side and not the other) perhaps a strut has become weak even thought they are not that old? or is it possible for something in the rear to be transmitting up to the front (seems unlikely since it's the steering wheel shaking and not the seat).

Any help you experienced guys can give would be welcome.

I have done all the work on the car myself outside of the clutch/flywheel, so it should be obvious I know my way around the car.
I have also searched and read a ton over the years on here, but this is something that has just got me puzzled.

Thanks in advance!

88SE

Perhaps re rotate the tires and make sure that the pressure is not too high. How old are the tires? The rubber may be getting harder with age and with it getting cooler out might have some effect. Yeah its not fun driving a vibrating car cant stand that.

88SE

Rebalance as well, tire machine may not have been zeroed out.

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

Tires are absolutely brand new, just got 'em last friday, had Discount buy back the old tires because i was unhappy with 'em thinking they might have something to do with it...they didn't but it was a way to get some seriously good rubber for a cheaper price.

These were road force balanced when installed and I also have centering rings which i forgot to mention earlier.
I had the last tires (Kumho Ecsta 4X) rotated and rebalanced 3 different times at two different locations, also with road force balance on the last try and it did not change anything. But they were showing signs of feathering and it was amplifying the issue which is why I had them buy 'em back.

I don't know if the feathering designates an issue with the rear, they were on a little too long on the back and they did tell me that tires left on the rear too long will get that, mine were on for 7k before rotating out, doesn't seem all that long really but maybe...either way the problem still persists, even on the brand new tires.

88SE

Maybe one of the CV Joints is bad, and hopefully its not a differential bushing or bearing. I would pull them out and take the boots off clean inspect & re grease. Plus you will be better able to check differential bearings.

88SE

One of the fellows here reminded me to change out my gear oil sometime, I would look into that as well.

88SE

You have so many things listed and just seen that you changed your axles out. So for me I would inspect the Differential. That would S uck. More time then anything.

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, you are right about that and I wouldn't have the time to do it until the first week of december when I'm supposed to be on vacation.
Strange though that if it were the diff. bearings, I wonder why it only starts at a certain speed exactly and only turning to one side?

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

This was changed out when the clutch and flywheel were done plus topped off when a little leaked out during the axle change out.

88SE

The turning is an indicator as well. Your differential allows toque to one wheel or the other and this change when you turn. The only time both wheels have power supplied at the same time is under heavy acceleration for traction. If that Differential has a problem your going to feel it at your steering wheel as well.

88SE

I am really leaning toward the Diff area, you maybe better of changing the differential as a whole or find a trans. If you have a transmission shop in your area have them check it out, and if your doing it yourself they may have a line for some parts. if you go though the trouble grab some new axle trans seals they are only a few bucks each.

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

Well, if it does turn out to be the differential I feel I have two choices, get rid of it before it gets worse or run it till it dies on the road.

I'm not going to take it apart on a hunch and I don't trust even one transmission shop I have come across, they all are sharks smelling blood in the water, they figure you are there because you suspect their is an issue and they will find one for you no matter what, real or invented.

I just spent about two grand having a rebuilt trans. installed in my 4x4 (because it did die on the road/locked up), i'm not going through that again.

I only have access to my girlfriends garage for short weekends usually and I don't have the lift needed to get that thing out and back in again...so I can only hope that assumption is wrong.

88SE

I have some good trans shops in my area they help me source parts time to time. The worst they could do is give you a price. Be like look I don't have money for your services but could you test drive this thing and give me an opinion? Some of them dudes like to share their skills and knowledge. Nip it in the bud and put it right there. All that money you put out. Cars worth keeping.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

My car is 17 YO now. I dont worry about vibrations

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

Well, my experience with transmission shops is that they can test drive but they either come back with one of two things.

1. Well this thing is definitely bad, i wouldn't trust driving it down the road, it would be best to just have us go ahead and fix it now (lasted two more years before it finally broke)

2. We won't know exactly what's wrong until we get in their and see what's going on. "Well then it has to be put back together"...yep, and we don't do it for free because then you would just take it somewhere else and get it done cheaper.

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

We all make are choices. I made a choice to invest good money into making this a solid daily driver instead of making car payments.

I drive long distances very early in the a.m., away from any services, it has to working properly.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Get the car up in the air and spin ALL FOUR wheels. I bet you have a hub that isn't concentric and it might even be on the rear.

88SE

That's a good thought NjMax. Seems to be a tuff nut to crack.

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

So do you think it's possible that the Rota wheels may be lug centric rather than hub centric? It would be worth a try to remove the centering rings and try that as well.

I honestly have not done much of anything with the rear except check the bushings for wear and tried checking for bearing wear, other than that it's just new rotors, pads, lines, calipers and struts.

I can jack it up and spin the wheel with the rings on and then try it without them to see if a difference is noted.

LTXMitch

Grab your axles, see if they have play. You've put all this money in already, its hard to sell a car without a tranny or engine.

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

You can also see if there are hub centric rings available for your car/wheel combo. They fill the gap (if there is any) between the inner bore of the wheel and the hub on the car to create a more centered fit.

Never mind, I see you mentioned then being on the car already. Ill go to my corner now

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

If I sold the car it would be right now while it's still good enough.

The axles are both brand new, but I did check them anyway last weekend.

The right side has no movement at all and the left only moves about a 1/4" at best. I called the company that built them and they said that is perfectly normal for a new axle to have a little movement, they don't move up and down at all, just a back and forth movement.

The axle nuts were all torqued properly and rechecked last weekend as well.

sanford7575

Dude, I am now having this same problem with my '97 Infiniti I30. I was searching for the source of knocking and squeaking, but It drove high speeds 70+ fine with crappy fcs struts and worn Bridgestone Tauranza tires.

I just changed out all 4 struts to Monroe Spectrum Quickstruts, and put on new Falcon Ziex 912 tires, and now it shakes like a **** on the interstate over 70.

It rides much better around town , and in traffic. Feels a lot more solid and stable at low speeds, but high speed not as smooth, definitely more noisy.

Honestly, I think it's the tires. It could be the balancing, lug nuts, inherent tire characteristics, or the alleged alignment (by tires plus), but a shaking wheel at high speeds points to the steering (rack, tie rods, rack bushings), or to the wheels themselves. I've spent too much time under Maxima's to look elsewhere!
Isn't it funny what we'll do for a 17 year old car? I'm glad I'm not the only one who's crazy!

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

Here is my most recent update on this problem.

Previously I was running centering rings and Eibach hubcentric spacers.

I had Discount take the new Michelin Pilot AS-3 tires off and redo the road force balance on all four. We then took off the Eibach spacers to take that out of the equation.

Neither one of these changed the issue. I pulled in behind a store (because i was pissed and sick of this) and took the tires off right there and removed the centering rings to see if their was a chance these wheels are lugcentric rather than hubcentric.

It shook again on the way home and I just have too throw up my arms in disgust...I don't know what else to try right now.

I'm close to taking it to the Nissan dealer to have them take a look, but I know they will give the same bull**** they always do...."umm, we couldn't replicate the issue" Aaaagh!!!