Was driving my 99 maxima and it started to bog down. It finally just stopped but the engine stayed running. When I would give it gas it just wouldnt go. It reaves up fine in park but as soon as it goes in drive it acts like its not getting gas but wont turn off though. Help please?

 

Hey sorry about what just happened to u. I dont know if your tranny has had problems or it just gave out. But when you put it in drive or reverse do the rpm's move at even though your car doesnt. Also check for codes if you have a check engine light on.

 

Yes the service engine light is on. I cleaned MAF and changed fuel filter. No transmissions issues that I know of. The car had been sitting for months when I got it. I changed fluids filters and drove it around for awhile that night and it would just have a miss ib it every once in awhile but that was it. The following morning is when it started acting up.

 

let me know what codes pop up from your car so that way i can look them up and give u an good idea of what the code is for what to do next so u dont throw money on random parts. If you changed your fuel filter did u put on an aftermarket or an oem. I would recommend that u only use original nissan fuel filter. It could be your fuel filter as well which could restrict fuel flow to the engine which is why your is probably missing and acting up and not moving. Let me know what codes u get and try to get an oem fuel filter from the dealer which is 25.50 with tax out the door.

 

I and plenty of other people have used aftermarket fuel filters with no problem, but quality does vary.

Reading the codes will point us in the right direction.

Changing the filter and cleaning the MAF is a good start.

*YOU USED A CLEANER SPECIFICALLY FOR THE MAF, RIGHT?*

I'd do the following next:

Clean IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)
Clean TB (Throttle Body) + New gasket
Change spark plugs (if old)
Inspect for vacuum leaks (around air intake)
Knock sensor (cheapest one on eBay that you can find)

Everything above is very inexpensive and can only better your engine.

 

Yes I used cleaner made for MAF sensor. I just tried pulling codes but could not reach the screw to correctly turn it. Was afraid I would push it through. I am going to check the fuel pressure next to see if its the fuel regulator. Can anyone tell me what pressure it should read? I was told 60?!

 

I just pulled codes came up MAF (1;2), Ignition circuit (2;1), knock sensor (3;4)
It also pulled a 14;3 up first numbers being the slow blinks secound # being fast blinks.

 

There u go u need New mass air flow sensor. Get that first and get ur car running. Then fix other codes. OEM Nissan maf only.

 

Is that 14;3 code a ghost code that I see people referring to on here? Or does it mean anything I should check out also?

 

Knock sensor, most likely just a ghost code. Maf first, then ign, then 0304ign should clear itself.

 

1403 not found.

 

What could make me get a ignition circuit code? I had a dead battery and had to jump it off the day I got the codes off the car. Forgot to mention I just recently replaced the starter on the car!!!

 

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=76800

Figure it out.

 

Installes new M.A.S. ran normal for a short test drive and now its back to running terrible again.

 

You have a transmission problem. When you changed the fluids did you put a new transmission filter in? What kid of fluid did you use? How did the filter secure to the transmission?

 

Didnt change it yet

 

Changed oil and fuel filters was told prolly best not mess with the transmission fluids.

 

Performing a non-pressurized flush will do no harm to the AT

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?p=8878888#post8878888

That thread shows you how to change the ATF. Our ATs have no filters but a life long screen. The link above will also guide you in dropping the AT pan to clean the magnets and screen.

 

Thnk you. Its been cold here in the a.m. the last 2 days and thats when I get the good response out of it.

 

I'd be willing to bet when you drop the pan you will either have pieces of clutch and other materials or get lucky and just have nasty fluid. Transmission fluid is cheap compared to a new transmission. I would start there and don't try to keep driving it, it will only make it worse.

 

Flushed and changed Atf fluid and filter.Only very small amount of metal shavings but very nasty fluid. Shifts better but once again after warm it runs like its not getting gas.Sputtering and sluggish almost to a complete stop but stays running.

 

Been told to change fuel pump??? Any ideas???

 

If the car has higher mileage and you tend to run the gas to empty frequently then perhaps it could be dirty fuel lines. Pump could be all mucked up, try a dose or two of injector cleaner althought if its the pump itll need to be handled hands on.

 

Any metal shavings is bad. What you want to see when you pull the pan is a dusting on the magnet. The dust mixed with the fluid feels like a thick glaze. As for the fuel thing don't just guess. Go to your local parts store and rent a fuel pressure tester. Unfortunately there isn't a fuel pressure port (schrader valve) on the fuel rail. Make sure to get a kit that comes with adapters so you can t into the fuel lines to properly test. Test fuel pressure with the engine running. It should close to 34 psi with the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator. When you disconnect the hose it should jump to around 43 psi. Also, with the vacuum line connected, you should be able to snap the throttle open and the fuel pressure should not go down. If you are reading low start with the filter and run some injector cleaner through the system. Hopefully this will help also.

 

Ahhhh, the pains of owning an import