i have a 97 with tokico illuminas, i kept the illumina springs but i want to go lower now. im concerned with axle problems and scrubbing problems. whats the lowest i can go and maintain a good daily driver? anyone got any suggestions for springs?

 

My Eibach's are doing fine.
Been on about two years now and have handled abuse well.

Anything lower than stock is supposed to be bad, but I think a 2" drop isn't that harsh.

 

I had the eibachs on my 4th gen. It rode very well and looked great doing it.
If I could go back and had enough money I'd go for full body coilovers.

 

well looks like i know what to buy, what yall describe is exactly what im looking for but i also dont want the problem i already have again and thats not being low enough. hows the wheel well gap, i know on stock its super bad and im about an inch lower now and its still bad lol its worse than a stock honda...

 

eibach seem kinda pricey thoo

 

There should be a picture in my album.
The 18" G35c wheels look nice on the Eibachs.
I think maybe an inch of gap with those.
I might have a pic of it lowered a bit with my stock 15" sawblades too.

If you don't find it, PM me.

 

I have a 2000 with illuminas and eibachs and wheel gap is perfect on stock 17s.

Now, keeping it aligned is another story. Had to go with camber bolts to get it correct.

I would suggest that you get a long term alignment package to save your tires.

 

i see it, and honestly i kinda want more low than that. i mean i guess the low im looking for would require more than what im willing to put in. do you scrub at all? i know i talked to a guy with some tiens and he said he scrubbed if he turned all the way to the left or right.

 

well i have some 17's on now and whats a long term alignment package hahaha. im assuming a deal you make with a shop to align your **** every other day?

 

Nah, most shops sell single alignments and then also will sell a slightly more expensive option that will allow you unlimited for 3 years (or some other period).

For most people, that's a waste.

However, being lowered creates a lot of stress on the suspension. So, i've had to replace several axles, wheel bearings, LCAs, etc.

From what I have observed with aftermarket axles and things like LCAs, the lowering dramatically decreases their life. I have to do my LCAs again and its only been 8 months. I used napa's better line so it wasn't total junk.

 

i need a new axle on the left to begin with and strut mounts, so im kind of trying to get everything solid on the front end so i can drop it. with that said, my question now is; how much does your suspension cost you a year? lol

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-contest.html

 

ok

 

that seems kind of expensive too not to mention i have never heard of "subject lines"? do they make good hardware?

 

A few pointers for you.

1. check out the I have a suspension question thread.

2. How many miles do you have on your car? If you have old suspension parts I can guarantee you that shortly after lowering you will pretty much end up having to replace lower control arms because bushing and ball joint will go, inner and outer tie rods, control links.

If you can do this work yourself, the cost is not all that much.

However, even if you use good parts, sometimes you end up with issues. For example I used napa LCAs - the good ones. 8 months later the bushings are bad so this time I will have energy suspsension bushings pressed into the lca.

3. If you do not get properly aligned and keep it that way, you will eat through the inner edges of your tires. Every time you make one of the repairs listed above, you need an alignment. That's why I say get the long term deal. I think I got something like 3 years.

I will say this. I have a 96 DD for my wife that is not lowered. Aside from replacing all suspension parts once (it has 300k miles) I have had to do very little else suspension wise.

On my 2000, I have had to deal with far more issues. I attribute that to it being lowered, and being driven hard.

If you are going to lower it, do it right.

 

i just rolled over to 160,000 the other day and i just had inner tie rod ends replaced and i know the mounts are bad, and the axle as i mentioned so i know i have some fixing up and i need to replace the front bumper, driver fender, and hood, bumper bracket and headlight and bumper light and then to plastidip it all before so im sure i will have replaced a couple other parts by then too

 

I would check out some "what are you lowered on" threads and see which drop looks good to you. The good side of not being slammed is not bottoming out, or replacing suspension parts as much, and having a smoother overall ride. Being super low looks cooler but you pay the price. That is fine for whoever wants to go that route, you have to pay to play. Where I live, road conditions aren't the best, alot of asphalt and concrete buckling on surface roads, so a drop of 1.4" would be better here. Adding insult to injury, is over the years newer cars coming out have a lower wheel gap. No wonder even when dropped the max can look like its 4x4.

 

i know man! this damn wheel gap is the worst! and i am 1.5 lower now and just want like one more inch to get it right.

 

Lol I wanna slam my 96 but I'm not ready or have money for it yet. I'm at 210k with no mods....I guess ill jus keep it like this til I save enough for turbo or 3.5...

 

I got H-Teins and they're extremely low...too low for me sometimes!!!! I just dosed off last week and wrecked my 4th Gen bending the driver's side lower control arm.....So I decided to replace all my lower control arms(MOOG) which were ES bushing equipped, install new AGX front struts, Moog swaybar bushings, and endlinks.... Has anyone heard of Sensen brand struts They're made in Japan and really low in cost?

 

They are basically stock replacements and you can't beat them for the money. They should do good on any mild drop spring (nothing lower than 1.4"). I had the rears on my car but I had intrax springs 1.75" so they lasted 6-8 months.