This sucks lol. All of this sudden I lost clutch the other day when it got super cold out and I was like what the hell? Must be just low fluid, so I went to check and yup. It was all the way down. So I must of gotten air in the system too and it seems to be leaking around the slave.

So I am gonna replace that and I remember back in the day people used to love those SS lines. Can I still buy them? I am just gonna put one of those in regardless if it really does anything big or not. I heard it makes your clutch more responsive but not like that matters in a maxima with a bad tranni lol

 

Yup, they're still available. I installed the Master to Slave line with the help of a fellow orger about 6 months ago. Works great.

Rubber line only replacement
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-2001-Nissan-Maxima-Stainless-Steel-clutch-line-/110548877446?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19bd3a0086&vxp=mtr
Master to Slave
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-01-Nissan-Maxima-1-piece-Stainless-Steel-clutch-line-/110584769949?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19bf5dad9d&vxp=mtr

 

ok awesome, so which one should I go for? and do I just put it in feed it through and leave it dangling? lol. There has to be something to keep it secure?

 

+1 on the master to slave. I had fun chopping up the old hard line with bolt cutters, now theres a big empty space in my engine bay lol.

Just a heads up, have some spare time to do this - connecting the line to the master cylinder was a PITA because its such a tight spot. I did this right before it got dark over the summer thinking it would take 20 minutes, fumbling and cursing trying to get the line on while thousands of mosquitos went to town on my back. I had to stop every 10 seconds to swat at them while working in the dark, holy crap i was so mad that night LOL.

Edit: the line is just long enough to fit, but not too short where it is taunt. It sort of gently rests in the engine bay, no need to hang it on anything.

Edit, again: If you have a chance, could you pm me an exterior pic of your car? I have a black max and im going to be getting tints in a month or two - im considering 35% and i noticed in your sig you have that. Just want to see how it looks lol.

 

Personally, I'd go for the Master to Slave for two reasons. 1) Cleans up the engine bay (if you go through the trouble of removing the hard lines), and 2)makes bleeding the line that much easier because the secondary bleed valve gets bypassed.

I found the length to be pretty much perfect. Dangling never occurs, and I found I didn't need to ziptie/secure anything.

 

oh okay. So that is all I need? is there a write up on which metal tubes I cut?

 

All you really need to do is to disconnect the existing tube from the master cylinder and also from the slave cylinder. Then you need to run the SS line between the master and slave cylinders. There is not much room to swing a wrench near the master cylinder.

You could take the time to remove the old lines and tubing if you really want to. I just left them in there. Personal preference.....

 

ah okay. SO it just needs a normal wrench to wrench off the ends of the cluch mc and at the other end of the slave? I'll just end up cutting it I guess than wrenching off those areas.

I am still kinda lost why the first hose is needed if there is just one line that goes from the MS to the Slave? Or is there another tube?

 

you only need the second line since you've decided to go master to slave. Go look at your car, re read my posts and it should make sense.you're making this way more complicated than it really is

 

Yes, as stated you only need the second line.

If you open your hood, you will see the master cylinder has a hard tube connected to it that winds into a spiral, then into a junction box mounted on the side of the drivers side strut tower. This junction splits, with one line heading up the strut tower to a bleed point; the other line heads into the center of the engine bay, ending at the slave cylinder just above the tranny fork. The slave also serves as a bleed point.

As you may have discerned, this hydraulic system is needlessly confusing and complex. The first clutch line listed in this thread would replace only the section between the slave cylinder and the junction - this option is good if you have a leak in that section, however, it leaves intact the rest of the hydraulic line, including the second bleed point located on the upper front side of the strut tower.

The second clutch line, however, replaces everything between the slave and master cylinders - this is what you want, as it removes all of the complex hydraulic lines, the junction box, and the second bleed point, leaving you with a simple system consisting of the master cylinder, the line itself, and the slave cylinder (which also serves as your single bleed point, making bleeding the clutch line WAY easier).

Too Long; Didn't Read = Get the single piece line.

 

ohhhh okay. Perfect thanks. That is what I wanted to know. I didn't really take a look at it. I didn't think of the junction box. Is that junction box just for bleed purposes?

I shall just get one hose and be good than and disconnect it from the junction box all together than? Or just leave that one on? And connect the SS line to the MS all the way to the Slave?

 

Single SS line goes directly from master to slave.

 

I got it now. I was just slightly confused on why there were 2 lines. In all, all someone had to say, was that there is one mc line that goes to a box. That box splits off into a bleeder and a slave line lol (which slamrod did pretty much) and the longer line option is a "mod" of sorts that by passes that whole mess going from mc to slave.

All I wanna know is, How does it make bleeding easier? I bled it once before and it was pretty easy. Just that its near the strut tower for easy access and could get on your paint vs. going inside the engine bay and getting in there with a tight wrench.

Oh and last thing. Say it is my Slave... or MC.... Where should I snag one? Rockauto? Or are those junk? Money is kinda tight but I am buying an SS line anyway. Not sure which one I want yet. It seems like the shorter one will work fine for me. Saves me $20 bucks for something that isn't an inconvenience for me to bleed.

 

The one piece makes it so theres only one bleed point instead of two.

With the OEM system you have to bleed from the top bleed point and the slave cylinder to do a proper job. With the long line you only have to bleed from the slave cylinder. In my opinion its well worth the extra dosh for that fact alone.

 

You can use an ordinary open-end wrench on the lines.

Rather than buying the short line to save money and then buying a new slave cylinder, spend the money on the one-piece line. If the slave is not leaking, do not fix it now.

You can always replace the slave cylinder sometime in the future. Either when it starts to leak, or as preventative maintainence. I have seen a rebuild kit that has the rubber parts for about seven bucks at O'Rielies, or they sell a new one for about twenty bucks.

I installed the new one-piece line and a new slave cylinder at the same time. The two were about 60-70 bucks as I recall. I had the funds, and I did not want to be stuck later on because the slave cylinder started leaking.

 

O'Rielies???

Where can I get this kit?

 

O'Reily used to be Schucks, part of Kragen and Checker. They have the kit. you might check NAPA, or your local auto parts store. Just buy the one-piece line now.
You can replace the slave cylinder some other time.

 

cant find the links ? anyone have a link to the one piece line that works?

thanks

 

I'm not seeing it on ebay at the moment. Just order it directly from Techna fit...

http://www.technafitstore.com/Nissan...p/nccl-201.htm