hey, i'm getting an oil change tomorrow and just sea foamed the intake and dumped some into the gas tank as well. also, new k&n air filter and new plugs. anything else i should do b4 i take it for the dreaded tailpipe test on wensday? is taking it for a nice long drive, ( like 10 miles or so ) going to help get the levels good for the nox and the other 2? premium gas maybe, half or full tank? i failed emissions last 2 years in a row, i also put a new o2 sensor in the new cat as well this past February. 253,000 on the clock.

 

Driving and getting the engine warm should help a ton, you would just need to get the test done asap before it begins to cool for the best chances.

This here is just a fool speculating, but would increasing air intake right before the test so the ecu cant adjust lower emissions? Higher AFR should mean lower emissions, right?

 

Inside my gasoline door, it says premium recommended. Put regular in once, ran like fecal matter

 

I'm going to have to replace my whole exhaust because it's not "restrictive" enough. Whatever that means. You got it easy.

 

That's a placebo effect.

 

TC-W3.......but then you'd need to drive the car for a while for it to really clean up your engine, like minimum 2 full tankfulls.

 

well, i failed 3rd year in a row!!! so, i'm going to the dealer for an injector service and a re-learn for the timing and set the ecu back to factory spec. i'll pass cause i'll get a waiver for spending the 150.00. wat a pita

 

My 95 Max just rolled over 227k this week, June of this year passed emissions with flying colors (NOX was a smidge higher than normal but still drastically below the limit), all on the original emissions equipment. I've seen motors under 50k that weren't as clean as mine on the inside.

 

I would strongly suggest you save the $150 and try TC-W3, escpecially now since you have time.

 

is'nt that for boat engines?? and bikes?? wth that stuff is expensive and i don't think it'll fix my engines blow by issue and high miles. someone chime in that's used it and tell me it works and i might try it. btw, since i put a warpspeed y-pipe in i've never passed emissions in 5 years. no problems b4 that.

 

That's correct.
Expensive? 3.5 ounces of TC-W3 into every full tank of gas. Read the thread linked below and you'll see how it cleans out the carbon inside the engine.


Loads of people have here;

http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...itive-new.html

 

maybe i did'nt mention i just did a seafoam, and i have a warpspeed y-pipe? o, wait, i see post #10 i did mention i failed since i've had warpspeed y-pipe. engines running cleaner than $hit otherwise. tell me how tc-w3 is going to change that? i run 93 octane last 3 fill ups as well.

 

Could the emissions test have been too soon after the seafoam? Just taking a guess but maybe your max was still puking out that carbon buildup.

 

so you have no ses light and no codes correct? should have been the first question lol. also with all the new parts it might take the computer a bit to adjust and run properly, wouldnt think long but it would have some effect. aftermarket parts will tend to put you on the backside of the government emissions ratings unfortunately cuz they work 'too good', best way to pass an emissions test is putting it back to all stock if you happened to keep the oe parts. I have a 96 max and the ses light has been on for 6 months and only getting 20 mpg highway which sux. primary ignition problem which have read it is probably the #1 injector jus hadnt found the time to fix it yet but feb is coming up quick.

 

Obviously make sure there are no codes but another thing that really helps and is extremely cheap is go to almost any hardware store and get yourself a bottle of methyl hydrate and put in aprox. 300 ml or so in when you gas up with high octane then run it on the highway for a good stretch atleast 20 to 30 minutes to run it nice and hot then straight in for the etest. Works everytime especially if yor cat and 02 sensor were replaced you really shouldnt be having an issue only thing next to do by the sounds of it is clean or replace your egr and pcv valve. Try the methyl hydrate next time though not so sure id be sticking 2 stroke oil in my gas tank like previously mentioned but each to their own and i cant knock it.

 

well, i took it to the dealer and spent the 150.00 cause i did'nt want to play games. i've failed the emissions ever since i did the y-pipe. i know thats whats causing me to fail, monday they do a re-test and i'll pass regardless cause i spent the 150.00 and i'll have almost 15 months b4 next inspection.

 

OK, I give up.

 

its not going to change the fact that i have a y-pipe and i've failed emissions ever since i put it on. engine's running fine. you don't mess around with an old car that's running good by dumping too much $hit into her. i read many conflicting views on the use of this stuff and i'm not convinced it would help, period.

 

So what's the exact reason for you failing?

Is it visual? Actual Nox readings?

I just did mine, and VA is strict about it. Passed w/ no issues despite Cattman Ypipe, gutted front cat, fastcat, and full custom cat-back, advanced timing, car being louder, etc, etc.

Best advice is to find a good shop, that's really the only thing that matters.

 

if you read the thread from the top, i said all my numbers were way too high. ( double ) the shop doesn't dictate what my emissions does. it's got high miles and probably need some more emissions related repairs which i did'nt have the time or the money to mess with. at some point i'm going to do an engine swap or rebuild.

 

^^ Sorry missed what you said at the top. Just realized you have a 95 Max, before OBDII and the source of your problem.

OBDII test takes 10min, they just plug it in and then look at exhaust/engine for visible smoke. No OBDII means you get the tailpipe test and all that good stuff, sucks. My 95 M3 is OBDI like your Max, I'm lucky it passed.

I see you did plugs, filter, and I guess you have a new cat and new o2 sensor. Besides that I can recommend doing the following maintenance/checks to help your issue:
-PCV Valve
-EGR Valve
-EVAP System/Canister
-Check ignition timing
-Check for vacuum leaks
-Check for exhaust leaks

I would also check AFR readings, see how far off they are to get an idea of what's wrong. And Seafoam (esp. in gas tank) right before the test is a bad idea, it directly affects emissions. I would only do Seafoam like a week before the test, giving it time to completely burn away as you drive and then do an oil change to get all the crap out.