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95 Maxima SCARY swerving! Need Help!!

Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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95 Maxima SCARY swerving! Need Help!!

So i just bought a 95 Maxima and i am having an issue. Every so often (once every 5 - 10 seconds) the car will swerve to either the left or right and i have to very quickly correct it with the wheel so i dont hit anyone or anyting. you do not feel the wheel move but the car move. your wheel could be straight while drivng but after a shift your wheel maybe be a bit to the left and driving strait for example. The strut and shocks up front were all busted and moving making weird noises but that was replaced today and the issue persists. Any suggestions??
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Nonameslim
So i just bought a 95 Maxima and i am having an issue. Every so often (once every 5 - 10 seconds) the car will swerve to either the left or right and i have to very quickly correct it with the wheel so i dont hit anyone or anyting. you do not feel the wheel move but the car move. your wheel could be straight while drivng but after a shift your wheel maybe be a bit to the left and driving strait for example. The strut and shocks up front were all busted and moving making weird noises but that was replaced today and the issue persists. Any suggestions??
I'm not expert in front end components, but it sounds like you got a bad tie rod or maybe a ball joint? who fixed the struts? Also if your alignment is off and you're toe is in/out too far, it will make the car feel "darty".

Last edited by erty67; Jan 1, 2014 at 06:25 PM.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:27 PM
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me and my brother did. He has been working on maximas for years and years now. He says the tie rods and ball joints are good. we were thinking the rack and pinion but dont want to jump into a job like that until we know for sure.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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inner/outer tie rods
free play in rack and pinion (adjustable)
free play in steering shaft.
Control arm bushings

Turn steering wheel back and forth with engine off and listen/find clicks and free play.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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jack up each side of the front end under the edges one at a time. while the wheels in the air, wiggle it a 12 o clock and 6 o clock, then 3 o clock and 9 o clock. should be no play. play at 3 and 9 is usually a tie rod or wheel bearing, 12 and 6 bad balljoint usually
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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already did the ball joint and tie rod tests. good on both. going to try out the steering left and right with engine off. will post results.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:38 PM
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this was an issue before the strut upgrade, right?
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:47 PM
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Yes it was an issue before the upgrade. I did the steering wheelh test with engine off. i did not feel any slips in the teeth but if i rock the wheel back and forth there was a subtle thump noise.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by car5car
inner/outer tie rods
free play in rack and pinion (adjustable)
free play in steering shaft.
Control arm bushings

Turn steering wheel back and forth with engine off and listen/find clicks and free play.

Adjustable Rack? Any Sticky on this? Im the one doing the work.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 08:34 PM
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The tie rods are both tight but does have a slight bit of play coming from Rack. Not enough to be causing the issue.

Its seriously feels normal driving, tad bit play if you play with steering wheel but then out nowhere feels like both tie rods are gone and wheels just sway over then you correct it and its fine for 10 seconds then does it the other way lol.


Hard to Explain and Even Harder for us guys to Diagnose a Issue like this Thru Internet, But just trying get some input or maybe someones had a similar issue.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 11:31 PM
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Crazy news, the Lower control arm bushing has plenty of play i didnt shake wheel hard enough to see before lol, Diagnosing too quick,

Do these bushings get pressed in or replace whole arm?
Old Jan 2, 2014 | 01:05 AM
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Do ES bushings, but they can be a PITA to get the old ones out.

Get Moog control arms, pop those on, and then go at the old ones on the weekend.
By the time oil eats away the rubber on the passenger side Moog, you'll be ready to put the ES on there and maybe press a new ball joint in the old one while your at it.

Rinse and repeat. Lol
Old Jan 2, 2014 | 12:46 PM
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Check the strut mounts!
Old Jan 3, 2014 | 01:00 AM
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One of your control arm bushing is done, thank me later. It might even be a bigger problem than that tho because your bushings shouldn't be ****ed up unless some kind of fluid is deteriorating it. Which could mean a leak. For me power steering fluid was leaking from the high pressure hose line directly on top of my right arm causing me to replace it multiple times till i found out the cause. Hope my post helps.

If this is not the problem it might your steering rack bushings that are done.
Old Jan 3, 2014 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
jack up each side of the front end under the edges one at a time. while the wheels in the air, wiggle it a 12 o clock and 6 o clock, then 3 o clock and 9 o clock. should be no play. play at 3 and 9 is usually a tie rod or wheel bearing, 12 and 6 bad balljoint usually
12 to 6 is the LCA. When I first got my car they showed me the play with the 12 to 6 and the control arm bushing was gone
Old Jan 3, 2014 | 10:42 AM
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turned out to be the control arm bushing and yes i was leaking some power steering fluid very slowly so im guessing thats what deteriorated it. ball joint was bad when i got the control arm out so just replaced the whole thing. rides like a champ now. just gotta get an alignment when i get paid.

THanks for all the input everyone, much appreciated!
Old Jan 4, 2014 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Nonameslim
turned out to be the control arm bushing and yes i was leaking some power steering fluid very slowly so im guessing thats what deteriorated it. ball joint was bad when i got the control arm out so just replaced the whole thing. rides like a champ now. just gotta get an alignment when i get paid.

THanks for all the input everyone, much appreciated!
better hurry or you will have to pay for tires also. make sure you find out where you're leaking the p/s fluid from.
Old Mar 3, 2014 | 07:44 PM
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Its the passenger side control arm. Your engine or power steering pump has a leak and it leaks right onto the front bushing of the control arm...ask me how I know. Does anyone know the size of the nut that holds the ball joint on? My last maxima had a cotter pin on it, but this one just has a regular nut on it.
Old Mar 4, 2014 | 09:43 AM
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LCA bushings or axle bearing issue!
Old Mar 16, 2014 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hfsdude007
Its the passenger side control arm. Your engine or power steering pump has a leak and it leaks right onto the front bushing of the control arm...ask me how I know. Does anyone know the size of the nut that holds the ball joint on? My last maxima had a cotter pin on it, but this one just has a regular nut on it.
The bj nut should always have a cotter-pin on it! (at least seeing this on all the vehicles I've owned so far)
Old Mar 16, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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did you attempt an alignment?? i'm guessing all the components up front are original. except what you've replaced so far, i'd do outer tie rods, sway bar end links, ( moog ) and just get some spencer ( beefy as hell ) lca's and call it a day. also, if you left the original strut plates and boots in there that's going to cause issues as well. my main power steering line was leaking and i replaced that like 5 years ago as well.
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