Cluster lighting help
01-21-2014, 01:52 PM
#1
Cluster lighting help
Ok, switched my bulbs in the cluster to the oem spec.. I used a blue twist lock put the new bulb in for the fuel light indicator cause it was bothering me that it wasnt working it fried the connector on the back of the cluster flex, cable from the bulb to the wire cooper strip if im making any sense .. So the harness nor the wire were not harmed. So like an idiot i tried the same socket and bulb in the ses spot needless to say nothing sparked but the light never comes on .
Now 2 new clusters the gas light stays on and the ses light never comes on, but i can still pull codes thru the obd2
(*im getting power to the fuel guage that stays on all the time and power to the ses light, however no light and no ground ...
The bulb was a 14v 1.4 watts ..
Everything else works
so far checked the fuses that are in the fuse panel that is visible, and the fuse panel under the hood , changed out the bsm ..
I dont know what else it could be it driving me insane
does anyone have the pinout for the wiring harness to the cluster
ecm/ecu/bsm or is there anything in between that would have shorted like a relay or a fuse i cant see?????
Now 2 new clusters the gas light stays on and the ses light never comes on, but i can still pull codes thru the obd2
(*im getting power to the fuel guage that stays on all the time and power to the ses light, however no light and no ground ...
The bulb was a 14v 1.4 watts ..
Everything else works
so far checked the fuses that are in the fuse panel that is visible, and the fuse panel under the hood , changed out the bsm ..
I dont know what else it could be it driving me insane
does anyone have the pinout for the wiring harness to the cluster
ecm/ecu/bsm or is there anything in between that would have shorted like a relay or a fuse i cant see?????
01-21-2014, 07:19 PM
#4
Anyone ? I have searched everywhere for about a week ...
Gas needle reads perfect swapped out my sending unit and pump thinking it was the issue and it wasnt so have an extra pump and sending unit,
Swapped bcm
But my gas light is on all the time.
Is there a relay or fusable link some where??
And no ses light at all but the obd2 reader works ..
I show power no ground does the ses light wire from the harness go straight to the ecm?
Believe me when I say I have tried everything looked everywhere and have come up with nothing. ..........
Help
Gas needle reads perfect swapped out my sending unit and pump thinking it was the issue and it wasnt so have an extra pump and sending unit,
Swapped bcm
But my gas light is on all the time.
Is there a relay or fusable link some where??
And no ses light at all but the obd2 reader works ..
I show power no ground does the ses light wire from the harness go straight to the ecm?
Believe me when I say I have tried everything looked everywhere and have come up with nothing. ..........
Help
01-23-2014, 08:19 AM
#7
you shorted something when you installed the bulb wrong. And you liekly did all this with the car on.
Did you swap BULBS for the SES light? I don't read wehre you said you did. Make sure the bulb isn't blown, first things first.
re: gas light always on... is it on bright or dim? you probably burned a trace and now the circuitry is not complete, hence the light.
Did you swap BULBS for the SES light? I don't read wehre you said you did. Make sure the bulb isn't blown, first things first.
re: gas light always on... is it on bright or dim? you probably burned a trace and now the circuitry is not complete, hence the light.
01-23-2014, 08:42 AM
#8
Yes I swapped the ses bulb
The fuel light bright as the sun .. have 2 replacement working clusters.
And like a moran i did it with the car on I used the blue twist lock and replaced it with oem spec bulbs ..
Where is the trace for the fuel? Any ideas on the ses light everything else works
The fuel light bright as the sun .. have 2 replacement working clusters.
And like a moran i did it with the car on I used the blue twist lock and replaced it with oem spec bulbs ..
Where is the trace for the fuel? Any ideas on the ses light everything else works
01-23-2014, 08:48 AM
#11
At the cluster I get power for the ses light no ground. No light and the fuel light is bright as day its was the same blue twist socket that damaged them both everything else works
All the light indicaters below work including needles
Seat belt works
Low washer fluid works
Oil works
Batt works
Abs work
Etc
All the light indicaters below work including needles
Seat belt works
Low washer fluid works
Oil works
Batt works
Abs work
Etc
01-23-2014, 09:20 AM
#12
At the cluster I get power for the ses light no ground. No light and the fuel light is bright as day its was the same blue twist socket that damaged them both everything else works
All the light indicaters below work including needles
Seat belt works
Low washer fluid works
Oil works
Batt works
Abs work
Etc
All the light indicaters below work including needles
Seat belt works
Low washer fluid works
Oil works
Batt works
Abs work
Etc
01-26-2014, 08:12 PM
#24
Thanks (maybe?) Farkie.
This thread is about as clear as mud to me. My take on this is:
op was changing light bulbs and causes a short that burned up a trace on the cluster printed circuit board. Has replaced original cluster, but the low fuel lamp is on all the time and the SES lamp does not come on at all. op says the 12 volts is present at both of these lamps but ground is missing.
OK. Based on the above, I am going to start rambling on. I'll try to keep it logical, if possible.
I know that the light bulb holders are different colors, but I don't know if the colors are constructed differently or if the color is just to identify function, i.e., general lighting or warning light use. I think they are, the general lighting ones are physically larger.
The op says he finds 12 volts at the lamps. This is as it should be. 12 volts comes from the ignition switch ON position to the printed circuit board on pin 37, which is in the connector behind the temperature gauge. To make the light bulb light, the appropriate circuit must supply ground to the lamp.
The op says ground is missing. Using logical thinking, this is true for the SES light. But not true for the low fuel light as it is lit up all the time.
The op used a test light to verify that 12 volts was present. This is fine. But I don't understand how the op has "verified" that ground is missing. You can do that with a test light, but does the op know how to do it?
The op correctly states that the low fuel light is controlled by the fuel sending unit in the gas tank. The fuel sending unit will supply ground to the instrument cluster light bulb on pin 9, located in the connector behind the fuel gauge. Since the low fuel lamp is on all the time, pin 9 has a ground on it. Could the fuel sending unit gotten damaged? Or is it a wiring problem? The op has changed the sending unit. Regardless I say unplug the fuel sending unit under the back seat and see. If the light stays on, it's not the sending unit.
The SES light doesn't light up. That is done by the ECU supplying ground to pin 38 of the instrument cluster, the connector behind the temperature gauge. The op says he opened up the ECU and looked for burned components but didn't see any. I'm jealous. How did he get the ECU out? I wanted to take mine out a while back and couldn't. I gave up. But back on subject. A bad integrated circuit (or chip) does not necessarily burn up, so a visual inspection is not 100% proof positive. What I would do is take the connector off of the ECU and ground pin 18 in the ECU connector. If the light doesn't light, the wiring is bad. Remember to turn the ignition key to the ON position.
I can't see the problem being in the instrument cluster itself as the op has tried 2 others. Got to go with Amerikaner83 on this one. The odds of 2 clusters have the identical problem (3 if you count the original) are staggeringly high.
/ramble
Did you download the wiring diagram? Section EL page 73 is a starting point, but you will have to scroll down to pages 83 and 84 in order to see everything.
I assume the wiring color codes are in the FSM somewhere, but I've forgotten where. Here is a list:
Wire Color Abbreviations
as used on the 94, 97, 2000, 2002
B = Black
L = Blue
SB = Sky Blue
BR = Brown
CH = dark Brown *
G = Green
DG = dark Green *
LG = light Green
GY = Gray
OR = Orange
P = Pink
PU = Purple
R = Red
W = White
Y = Yellow
* not used in 3rd gen
This thread is about as clear as mud to me. My take on this is:
op was changing light bulbs and causes a short that burned up a trace on the cluster printed circuit board. Has replaced original cluster, but the low fuel lamp is on all the time and the SES lamp does not come on at all. op says the 12 volts is present at both of these lamps but ground is missing.
OK. Based on the above, I am going to start rambling on. I'll try to keep it logical, if possible.
I know that the light bulb holders are different colors, but I don't know if the colors are constructed differently or if the color is just to identify function, i.e., general lighting or warning light use. I think they are, the general lighting ones are physically larger.
The op says he finds 12 volts at the lamps. This is as it should be. 12 volts comes from the ignition switch ON position to the printed circuit board on pin 37, which is in the connector behind the temperature gauge. To make the light bulb light, the appropriate circuit must supply ground to the lamp.
The op says ground is missing. Using logical thinking, this is true for the SES light. But not true for the low fuel light as it is lit up all the time.
The op used a test light to verify that 12 volts was present. This is fine. But I don't understand how the op has "verified" that ground is missing. You can do that with a test light, but does the op know how to do it?
The op correctly states that the low fuel light is controlled by the fuel sending unit in the gas tank. The fuel sending unit will supply ground to the instrument cluster light bulb on pin 9, located in the connector behind the fuel gauge. Since the low fuel lamp is on all the time, pin 9 has a ground on it. Could the fuel sending unit gotten damaged? Or is it a wiring problem? The op has changed the sending unit. Regardless I say unplug the fuel sending unit under the back seat and see. If the light stays on, it's not the sending unit.
The SES light doesn't light up. That is done by the ECU supplying ground to pin 38 of the instrument cluster, the connector behind the temperature gauge. The op says he opened up the ECU and looked for burned components but didn't see any. I'm jealous. How did he get the ECU out? I wanted to take mine out a while back and couldn't. I gave up. But back on subject. A bad integrated circuit (or chip) does not necessarily burn up, so a visual inspection is not 100% proof positive. What I would do is take the connector off of the ECU and ground pin 18 in the ECU connector. If the light doesn't light, the wiring is bad. Remember to turn the ignition key to the ON position.
I can't see the problem being in the instrument cluster itself as the op has tried 2 others. Got to go with Amerikaner83 on this one. The odds of 2 clusters have the identical problem (3 if you count the original) are staggeringly high.
/ramble
Did you download the wiring diagram? Section EL page 73 is a starting point, but you will have to scroll down to pages 83 and 84 in order to see everything.
I assume the wiring color codes are in the FSM somewhere, but I've forgotten where. Here is a list:
Wire Color Abbreviations
as used on the 94, 97, 2000, 2002
B = Black
L = Blue
SB = Sky Blue
BR = Brown
CH = dark Brown *
G = Green
DG = dark Green *
LG = light Green
GY = Gray
OR = Orange
P = Pink
PU = Purple
R = Red
W = White
Y = Yellow
* not used in 3rd gen
01-27-2014, 09:01 AM
#25
WOW YOUR GOOD!!!!!
To start I tested the fuel sending unit
I unplugged it and light goes off . plugged my old one in and it moves the needle, it shuts the light off using that one but when it reaches E The light doesnt return (using the old sending unit) Plugged the new one back in the light comes back on ..
as far as the ses light im going to do what you suggested and see if I get continuity.
If I don't what happens next? is the ecu bad ?? or is it bad as we speak?
everything works no other issues at all.
To start I tested the fuel sending unit
I unplugged it and light goes off . plugged my old one in and it moves the needle, it shuts the light off using that one but when it reaches E The light doesnt return (using the old sending unit) Plugged the new one back in the light comes back on ..
as far as the ses light im going to do what you suggested and see if I get continuity.
If I don't what happens next? is the ecu bad ?? or is it bad as we speak?
everything works no other issues at all.
01-27-2014, 11:27 AM
#28
To start I tested the fuel sending unit. I unplugged it and light goes off . plugged my old one in and it moves the needle, it shuts the light off using that one but when it reaches E The light doesnt return (using the old sending unit) Plugged the new one back in the light comes back on.
The part where the old sending unit doesn't turn the light on when the needle gets to E, it appears to have the exact opposite problem.
When you look at the end of the sending unit (the end in the gas tank), you will see 2 sensor "things" at the end of the arm. The black plastic one at the very end (the right most one in the photo below) is a temperature sensor for the gasoline. This will cause a P0180 CEL code if the gasoline is too hot. I find this interesting that Nissan put this sensor in there to let you know that your car is about to explode.
But the silver one on the left side of the pair is the low fuel sensor for the dash light. At least I think it is, I don't know for sure.When I measure the resistance of this sensor out of the car (air temperature 75º F and not submerged in gas), I get a reading of 1.2K ohm. This is confusing as you would need essentially zero ohms to make a lamp light up. Maybe I am just wrong about what this silver thing does.
To talk theory of operation for a vehicle that is working 100% properly, the SES light would never be illuminated. But as a safety check, a self test was built into the car. When you get in the car and go to start it, all the warning lights will come on when you turn the ignition key to the ON position. The lights will go out when you start the engine or after a couple of seconds if you don't start the engine. Does the SES light come on at this time?
If the SES light does not come on for this light bulb self-test, it could be the anything in the overall circuit from the light bulb to the light bulb holder, to the instrument cluster printed circuit board, to the wire harness, to the ECU.
But if the light comes on for the self test, I have to say it is the ECU causing the problem. That's why grounding the wire at the ECU connector will eliminate the ECU or point the finger at it.
01-27-2014, 12:53 PM
#29
Since the light goes off when you unplug the sending unit connector, I'd have to say that the instrument cluster and the wire harness in between are OK. That means that the new sending unit has a problem. See if you can return it or at least exchange it.
The part where the old sending unit doesn't turn the light on when the needle gets to E, it appears to have the exact opposite problem.
When you look at the end of the sending unit (the end in the gas tank), you will see 2 sensor "things" at the end of the arm. The black plastic one at the very end (the right most one in the photo below) is a temperature sensor for the gasoline. This will cause a P0180 CEL code if the gasoline is too hot. I find this interesting that Nissan put this sensor in there to let you know that your car is about to explode. But the silver one on the left side of the pair is the low fuel sensor for the dash light. At least I think it is, I don't know for sure.
When I measure the resistance of this sensor out of the car (air temperature 75º F and not submerged in gas), I get a reading of 1.2K ohm. This is confusing as you would need essentially zero ohms to make a lamp light up. Maybe I am just wrong about what this silver thing does.
To ask a question I should have asked before, how do you know that the SES light is not working? Do you know that you have a problem that should illuminate the SES lamp?
To talk theory of operation for a vehicle that is working 100% properly, the SES light would never be illuminated. But as a safety check, a self test was built into the car. When you get in the car and go to start it, all the warning lights will come on when you turn the ignition key to the ON position. The lights will go out when you start the engine or after a couple of seconds if you don't start the engine. Does the SES light come on at this time?
If the SES light does not come on for this light bulb self-test, it could be the anything in the overall circuit from the light bulb to the light bulb holder, to the instrument cluster printed circuit board, to the wire harness, to the ECU.
But if the light comes on for the self test, I have to say it is the ECU causing the problem. That's why grounding the wire at the ECU connector will eliminate the ECU or point the finger at it.
The part where the old sending unit doesn't turn the light on when the needle gets to E, it appears to have the exact opposite problem.
When you look at the end of the sending unit (the end in the gas tank), you will see 2 sensor "things" at the end of the arm. The black plastic one at the very end (the right most one in the photo below) is a temperature sensor for the gasoline. This will cause a P0180 CEL code if the gasoline is too hot. I find this interesting that Nissan put this sensor in there to let you know that your car is about to explode.
But the silver one on the left side of the pair is the low fuel sensor for the dash light. At least I think it is, I don't know for sure.When I measure the resistance of this sensor out of the car (air temperature 75º F and not submerged in gas), I get a reading of 1.2K ohm. This is confusing as you would need essentially zero ohms to make a lamp light up. Maybe I am just wrong about what this silver thing does.
To ask a question I should have asked before, how do you know that the SES light is not working? Do you know that you have a problem that should illuminate the SES lamp?
To talk theory of operation for a vehicle that is working 100% properly, the SES light would never be illuminated. But as a safety check, a self test was built into the car. When you get in the car and go to start it, all the warning lights will come on when you turn the ignition key to the ON position. The lights will go out when you start the engine or after a couple of seconds if you don't start the engine. Does the SES light come on at this time?
If the SES light does not come on for this light bulb self-test, it could be the anything in the overall circuit from the light bulb to the light bulb holder, to the instrument cluster printed circuit board, to the wire harness, to the ECU.
But if the light comes on for the self test, I have to say it is the ECU causing the problem. That's why grounding the wire at the ECU connector will eliminate the ECU or point the finger at it.
To answer the first question the current sending unit in the car is now giving me that code p0180... is my car going to blow up? That makes me worried cause I drive it around currently with my wife and kids !!!! but wed im grabbing another sending unit from my friends parts car its an automatic i dont believe that makes a difference or does it?
The ses light doesnt come on when I first turn the ignition on. I have tried different sockets brown or black instead of blue which was the socket that caused me this mess or it was the new bulb that I bought. This I just can't understand it was an oem 14v 1.4 watt bulb. So i have not done the continuity test , however if there is none what do I do run another wire or what else can i check to see what else it could be ?? all fuses have been checked i have the 543 pages of the fsm in my phone so i will research .
now another question my friends car is a 99 se-l but an automatic, If i plug his in ecm/ecu just turn the car on the on position with out starting it to see if the light comes on will this cause any issues? just to see if the light comes on , will it damage anything ??
all any information is greatly appreciated .. If we can fix this I have a for sale thread and ill send someone something free of charge as my appreciation.
ALSO TO REMOVE THE BCM REMOVE THE RADIO BEZEL THE VENTS AND THE SHIFT BEZEL . REMOVE THE BCM 2 10M NUTS MOVE IT OUT OF THE WAY. REMOVE THE BLACK TUBE THAT DELIVERS THE HEAT SUPER EASY THAN 2 MORE 10M BOLTS FOR THE ECU, CUT THE FACTORY ZIP TIES CAREFULLY EASY ENOUGH AND THERE YOU ARE .....
01-27-2014, 11:02 PM
#30
To answer the first question the current sending unit in the car is now giving me that code p0180... is my car going to blow up? That makes me worried cause I drive it around currently with my wife and kids !!!! but wed im grabbing another sending unit from my friends parts car its an automatic i dont believe that makes a difference or does it?
The ses light doesnt come on when I first turn the ignition on. I have tried different sockets brown or black instead of blue which was the socket that caused me this mess or it was the new bulb that I bought. This I just can't understand it was an oem 14v 1.4 watt bulb. So i have not done the continuity test , however if there is none what do I do run another wire or what else can i check to see what else it could be ?? all fuses have been checked i have the 543 pages of the fsm in my phone so i will research.
Until you try grounding the wire in the ECU harness connector, everything is still suspect. Any fuses that could figure into this are not unique to the SES light, they power other things as well, so you would be seeing other problems. A light bulb itself is always a possibility. Just because it is new doesn't guarantee that it is good. Wire it up to the battery and see if it illuminates. Light bulbs can short out internally besides the much more common open up (burn out).
ALSO TO REMOVE THE BCM REMOVE THE RADIO BEZEL THE VENTS AND THE SHIFT BEZEL . REMOVE THE BCM 2 10M NUTS MOVE IT OUT OF THE WAY. REMOVE THE BLACK TUBE THAT DELIVERS THE HEAT SUPER EASY THAN 2 MORE 10M BOLTS FOR THE ECU, CUT THE FACTORY ZIP TIES CAREFULLY EASY ENOUGH AND THERE YOU ARE .....
01-28-2014, 06:56 AM
#31
How can i ground the ecu??
and using his ecu wont cause any issues at all in my car ?? its from a 99 se-limited just like mine. but automatic
also, I see it from here the silver box under the bcm black box
and using his ecu wont cause any issues at all in my car ?? its from a 99 se-limited just like mine. but automatic
also, I see it from here the silver box under the bcm black box
01-28-2014, 12:03 PM
#32
You are confusing me. The ECU is not under the BCM. The ECU is forward from the BCM, almost against the firewall. The TCM (Transmission Control Module) for an auto trans is underneath the BCM. Since you have a manual trans, you should not have a TCM.
Either I don't understand the way you wrote that or you are looking at the wrong thing.
You access the ECU from the passenger side footwell. You have to remove a small plastic trim panel at the very front of the console to see the ECU. Then remove the connector from the ECU by removing the 10mm bolt in the center of the connector. This is a big connector with a lot of wires in it. The Nissan service manual, in section EC at the bottom of page 108 is a drawing of the ECU connector with pin numbers.
You want to ground pin 18. In the drawing, pin 18 is to the left of the 10mm bolt, in the bottom right corner of a small squarish cluster of 16 wires. I can't remember if you can see the wire itself, but the wire color is light green with a black stripe. This drawing is when you are looking at the end of the ECU.
When you remove the connector and twist it around so you can see and access the pin contacts, left and right are now reversed. So now pin 18 is on the right side of the bolt and it is in the lower left corner of the group of wires.
So get a wire that you can connect one end to some metal thing that is a good ground and then touch the other end to pin 18 in the wire harness connector, not in the ECU itself. This should make the SES lamp illuminate when the ignition switch is in the ON position.
If the SES lamp does not light up, the the ECU is not the problem and is probably OK. No need to swap in your buddy's ECU.
But if the SES lamp lights up when you ground pin 18, then the ECU has a problem. You can swap in you buddy's ECU to test with. If you drive your car with your buddy's ECU, you will probably get a check engine code for the auto trans, P07xx category. When you put the ECU back in your buddy's car, he might have the check engine light then. He might not because of the ECU being disconnected from power in the swap process.
Either I don't understand the way you wrote that or you are looking at the wrong thing.
You want to ground pin 18. In the drawing, pin 18 is to the left of the 10mm bolt, in the bottom right corner of a small squarish cluster of 16 wires. I can't remember if you can see the wire itself, but the wire color is light green with a black stripe. This drawing is when you are looking at the end of the ECU.
When you remove the connector and twist it around so you can see and access the pin contacts, left and right are now reversed. So now pin 18 is on the right side of the bolt and it is in the lower left corner of the group of wires.
So get a wire that you can connect one end to some metal thing that is a good ground and then touch the other end to pin 18 in the wire harness connector, not in the ECU itself. This should make the SES lamp illuminate when the ignition switch is in the ON position.
If the SES lamp does not light up, the the ECU is not the problem and is probably OK. No need to swap in your buddy's ECU.
But if the SES lamp lights up when you ground pin 18, then the ECU has a problem. You can swap in you buddy's ECU to test with. If you drive your car with your buddy's ECU, you will probably get a check engine code for the auto trans, P07xx category. When you put the ECU back in your buddy's car, he might have the check engine light then. He might not because of the ECU being disconnected from power in the swap process.
01-28-2014, 01:24 PM
#34
You are confusing me. The ECU is not under the BCM. The ECU is forward from the BCM, almost against the firewall. The TCM (Transmission Control Module) for an auto trans is underneath the BCM. Since you have a manual trans, you should not have a TCM.
Either I don't understand the way you wrote that or you are looking at the wrong thing.
You access the ECU from the passenger side footwell. You have to remove a small plastic trim panel at the very front of the console to see the ECU. Then remove the connector from the ECU by removing the 10mm bolt in the center of the connector. This is a big connector with a lot of wires in it. The Nissan service manual, in section EC at the bottom of page 108 is a drawing of the ECU connector with pin numbers.
You want to ground pin 18. In the drawing, pin 18 is to the left of the 10mm bolt, in the bottom right corner of a small squarish cluster of 16 wires. I can't remember if you can see the wire itself, but the wire color is light green with a black stripe. This drawing is when you are looking at the end of the ECU.
When you remove the connector and twist it around so you can see and access the pin contacts, left and right are now reversed. So now pin 18 is on the right side of the bolt and it is in the lower left corner of the group of wires.
So get a wire that you can connect one end to some metal thing that is a good ground and then touch the other end to pin 18 in the wire harness connector, not in the ECU itself. This should make the SES lamp illuminate when the ignition switch is in the ON position.
If the SES lamp does not light up, the the ECU is not the problem and is probably OK. No need to swap in your buddy's ECU.
But if the SES lamp lights up when you ground pin 18, then the ECU has a problem. You can swap in you buddy's ECU to test with. If you drive your car with your buddy's ECU, you will probably get a check engine code for the auto trans, P07xx category. When you put the ECU back in your buddy's car, he might have the check engine light then. He might not because of the ECU being disconnected from power in the swap process.
Either I don't understand the way you wrote that or you are looking at the wrong thing.
You access the ECU from the passenger side footwell. You have to remove a small plastic trim panel at the very front of the console to see the ECU. Then remove the connector from the ECU by removing the 10mm bolt in the center of the connector. This is a big connector with a lot of wires in it. The Nissan service manual, in section EC at the bottom of page 108 is a drawing of the ECU connector with pin numbers.
You want to ground pin 18. In the drawing, pin 18 is to the left of the 10mm bolt, in the bottom right corner of a small squarish cluster of 16 wires. I can't remember if you can see the wire itself, but the wire color is light green with a black stripe. This drawing is when you are looking at the end of the ECU.
When you remove the connector and twist it around so you can see and access the pin contacts, left and right are now reversed. So now pin 18 is on the right side of the bolt and it is in the lower left corner of the group of wires.
So get a wire that you can connect one end to some metal thing that is a good ground and then touch the other end to pin 18 in the wire harness connector, not in the ECU itself. This should make the SES lamp illuminate when the ignition switch is in the ON position.
If the SES lamp does not light up, the the ECU is not the problem and is probably OK. No need to swap in your buddy's ECU.
But if the SES lamp lights up when you ground pin 18, then the ECU has a problem. You can swap in you buddy's ECU to test with. If you drive your car with your buddy's ECU, you will probably get a check engine code for the auto trans, P07xx category. When you put the ECU back in your buddy's car, he might have the check engine light then. He might not because of the ECU being disconnected from power in the swap process.
DO I GROUND THE WIRE WITH HARNESS PLUGGED INTO THE ECU OR UNPLUGGED???????
01-28-2014, 08:38 PM
#36
Something has been over looked. Just for grins and giggles, remove the light bulb and its holder for the SES light. Take a light bulb and its holder from any of the other warning lights that you see light up during the self test and put it in the SES spot and test it out.
If it didn't light up, then you have to start checking wire continuity. You need to check the continuity of the wire in the wire harness from pin 18 of the ECU connector to pin 38 of the instrument cluster connector.
So you have to pull out the instrument cluster and unplug the connector with pin 38 in it, the connector behind the temperature gauge. In the wiring diagram, this is connector M84. See the bottom of page 82 of section EL in the FSM for a drawing of the connector and the pin locations. Inspect the wire harness connector and the connector on the instrument cluster carefully. Make sure that the metal contact pin itself has not been pushed out of position, either sideways or in/out.
If the connectors look OK, then check for continuity.
If the wire is good, then the problem is in the cluster some how. The next thing would be to check for continuity between the connector built onto the cluster to the spot where the light bulb holder touches. If you have continuity in this section (I would be very amazed if you didn't), I will have to really think hard about this.
If it didn't light up, then you have to start checking wire continuity. You need to check the continuity of the wire in the wire harness from pin 18 of the ECU connector to pin 38 of the instrument cluster connector.
So you have to pull out the instrument cluster and unplug the connector with pin 38 in it, the connector behind the temperature gauge. In the wiring diagram, this is connector M84. See the bottom of page 82 of section EL in the FSM for a drawing of the connector and the pin locations. Inspect the wire harness connector and the connector on the instrument cluster carefully. Make sure that the metal contact pin itself has not been pushed out of position, either sideways or in/out.
If the connectors look OK, then check for continuity.
If the wire is good, then the problem is in the cluster some how. The next thing would be to check for continuity between the connector built onto the cluster to the spot where the light bulb holder touches. If you have continuity in this section (I would be very amazed if you didn't), I will have to really think hard about this.
01-31-2014, 08:50 PM
#39
What did you change the sending unit with? A new or used unit? From reading threads on the org, more than a people have reported that the low fuel light stopped working. Then there is the fact that different sending units turn the light on at different levels. I don't know.
The SES light raises a bunch of questions. When you disconnected the wire harness from the ECU and grounded pin 18 in the harness, the light did not light. If the wire has continuity and the cluster has 12 volts and the light bulb and holder are good, the light bulb should have lit up. Something is not what we think it is.
Did you try another lamp and holder? Re-verify that 12 volts is at the SES lamp socket. Re-check continuity of the wire, but this time do not unplug the connector on the back of the instrument cluster. Check the continuity from the ECU to the light bulb socket.
If you want to try your buddy's ECU, go ahead. But I don't think that will do any good at this point. But I could always be surprised.
The SES light raises a bunch of questions. When you disconnected the wire harness from the ECU and grounded pin 18 in the harness, the light did not light. If the wire has continuity and the cluster has 12 volts and the light bulb and holder are good, the light bulb should have lit up. Something is not what we think it is.
Did you try another lamp and holder? Re-verify that 12 volts is at the SES lamp socket. Re-check continuity of the wire, but this time do not unplug the connector on the back of the instrument cluster. Check the continuity from the ECU to the light bulb socket.
If you want to try your buddy's ECU, go ahead. But I don't think that will do any good at this point. But I could always be surprised.
02-01-2014, 05:32 PM
#40
So update I believe all the sending units I have tried are old, fried, or dead..
tge current one I just put in from my friends parts car semi worked yesterday so im going to assume I need a new one never had this problem in approximately 25 maxima's to date that I have owned ..
question there is an adjustable plastic piece on the sending unit that is located under the board . What does that do ?
as far as the ses light there is continuity however I thought it was getting 12v but how can I test that originally I thought I had no ground but I may not have power.. not sure im following step by step instructions but no results .. is there a relay fuse somthing im missing ? Ignition switch/ harness issue? No starting problems no driving issues all the other lights work actually everything works except the ses light the FSM STATES that there is a fuse of some sort in the steering column. .
oh btw in an automatic the ecu is harder to remove cause you have tge auto trans ecu in the way with the bolts upside down..
and you helping me is greatly appreciated.
tge current one I just put in from my friends parts car semi worked yesterday so im going to assume I need a new one never had this problem in approximately 25 maxima's to date that I have owned ..
question there is an adjustable plastic piece on the sending unit that is located under the board . What does that do ?
as far as the ses light there is continuity however I thought it was getting 12v but how can I test that originally I thought I had no ground but I may not have power.. not sure im following step by step instructions but no results .. is there a relay fuse somthing im missing ? Ignition switch/ harness issue? No starting problems no driving issues all the other lights work actually everything works except the ses light the FSM STATES that there is a fuse of some sort in the steering column. .
oh btw in an automatic the ecu is harder to remove cause you have tge auto trans ecu in the way with the bolts upside down..
and you helping me is greatly appreciated.