S1cTech

it here and it still retains decent value?

I am just entertaining the idea. lol

I mean its $120 for a crappy plastic Auto/Advanced one

Or get a Mishimoto, NEVER have leaks or issues for only $130 more. I've seen Mishimoto's for like $250. When they are normally $320.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I can get a new one for $216 shipped right now. $240 shipped tops.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Better do your research if you think a mishimoto will never leak.
https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&t...ishimoto+leaks

Plastic tanks are a proven design. hell how old is your car and how long did it take to leak?? Mine made it 16 or seventeen years.

S1cTech

whoa... where? lol PM ME

S1cTech

perhaps so, its only proven because its cheap lol. The rad gets hot in the 250-400 degrees and 12-13 years it goes, but did you own the car for that long? I don't know if this rad has been replaced. I bought the car when it was 6 years old. IT could of been replaced at any of those times.

Also Misho has a FULL lifetime and accident warranty. Obv not rad out there is indestructible even the Griffins or perrins, It can happen based on how you treat your car too. Best part is, if they give you flack, you can always weld it your self. You can't epoxy a plastic tank, its too hot. Trust me, I tried.

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

I paid $208 for my mishimoto rad from importrp right on this site in the vendor section.that includes shipping!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Was another thread on the same subject really warranted?

To answer your original question, you'd probably get about $100 if and when you sell the used Mish. radiator.

Why not go with the $50 ebay radiator I linked you too in your other thread?
I'm sure it will last a year, and in the rare chance it doesn't, you can buy another one for $50 shipped and still be ahead...

vq4thgen4life

you can sell anything, the problem would be if their is someone who would buy it......



FWIW, I personally would buy a used Mishi or Mizu radiator if the price was right & condition was good. I also don't mind paying the $240 price new as I plan to keep this car for sometime but its maybe last on my list of upgrades/mods since my current rad is working just fine lol

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Also, let's say you do sell the radiator in a year for $100, you still have to put back a radiator in the car to sell it. More time and money invested...

IMO, you should never spend more than you have to when you're planning to sell the car in the near future.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Yeah ... I'm not quite sure why we're still obsessing and angsting over this.

I do realize that a full aluminum radiator has it's place. But in a car in it's OE form, I'm not so sure other than for the "Ooo" factor.

The point made above is spot on. The crappy cheap plastic tanked aluminum cored units installed in our cars from the factory only last about 12 to 15 years ... cheap pieces of sh*t.

God knows replacing those with similar if not duplicate pieces will throw the balance in the universal irrecoverably off not to mention the profound impact the doubt that their proven lack of dependability and performance can have on the mind of a driver.

An all aluminum racing (their term, not mine) radiator with a LLT for $320.

A plastic tanked aluminum cored OE replacement part with a LLT for $110.

Do you race your car? Running a turbo? How about a blower? Had a bunch of custom top end and/or bottom end work done that makes your car run different than my "never-been-messed-with-other-than-normal-maintenance" car does?

Like I said I'm not quite sure why we're still obsessing and angsting over this.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Get the 120 radiator and be done with it.
It works fine
Costs less
Should last you as long as you own the car

I hate to say this, but these are 15+ year old vehicles. Put your hard earned money in the bank, not into the car.

S1cTech

You have a point friend. BUT if I can steal a Mishimoto for $208 bucks...WELL than... It is a different story, I mean **** a stock nissan is what... $180? I mean jesus christ. They make them super cheap on purpose and still charge $240? GTFO of here.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[21408M]+\%28a32b&cPath=1783_1784_1808_1813


yes, the tanks last 15 years, but still, they put them in KNOWING they will eventually fail and that to me is kinda messed up and actually scummy. I am sure other people didn't get them to last 15 years, I am sure if you lived in a hotter climate these tanks don't last as long cause they have to deal with the already 120 degrees outside plus the extra 300 degrees of engine heat.

JvG

Seems you are bound and determined to spend the max for a new radiator that is overkill for what you need. Or cheap out by buying an OEM radiator that has been in a car for over ten years.


The Koyorad works, why not use it.


Slctech, There is an old saying about advice:


Wise men do not need it
Fools do not heed it.

S1cTech

I'd be fine with Kayorad but at the same time, why not just buy it at Auto/advanced and get a 1 time replacement incase it fails?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Both I and my car live in Florida

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

IMO, you're not really hearing what we're saying and you're missing the bigger picture

S1cTech

Florida is wet and humid more than general hot I am talking about. I am thinking more dry and Arizona areas.

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Agreed

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i replaced my rad at a rad shop like 5 years ago and he re-used my old fluid, installed i think was 235-240.00. got a 3 year warranty on the rad as well.

Maxima_Joe

iTrader: (384)

Just fix your current radiator. The following product will do the job. I have used it on the same exact leak multiple times. I actually have a car with a leak right now that I will be doing this to. I have radiators I could use but there's no sense in changing them when this quick fix works.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Blue-Magic...-2-oz/17134766

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

... haven't spent much time Florida huh?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

So now some of you are looking down on an OEM radiator that only lasts 12 to 15 years?
Think about that for a second lol.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

the stuff joe mentions i used and it only slowed my leak down cause the crack was bigger than i thought. if you want peace of mind, just get the new cheapo rad and be done with it. just make sure you fill it up to the proper level and get it up to running temperature with the heat on and top it off in a couple of days to be sure cause the engine will eat up some of the ant-freeze once it gets running.

S1cTech

okay. Well I gave in and bought the crappy Advanced auto (tough one) rad. Now I will say this thing is SUCH a piece of **** haha, I didn't look at the nissan one, but really? It uses passive cooling? 2 tanks at the end and a bar over the top of the fins? WTF is this design? Dide this save Nissan this much money? lol There are ZERO cooling tubes(aka heatpipes) that run through the rad which kinda shocks me. Are all stock Rads this bad? How could passive cooling actually do anything ?

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

Please do some research before you go rambling off again.

There are tubes, just not the big copper tubes you must be used to.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Lol the mishimoto has the same core design. Your ignorance is more evident with each post.

That "bar" over top of the fins is a tube. You're having a coronary over radiator quality and don't even understand basic radiator design.

If you need to fix your car and need help fine, but don't argue with people who have the experience to help you.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

this thread is full of wrong info. First of all, like anything else, radiators are not designed to outlive the car. 12 - 15 year life span for a part is pretty darn good.

Anyways, I second the motion of buying a new aftermarket (i.e. autozone) radiator and be done with it.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

S1cTech

arighty than. Point proven lol. Too bad it needed to be cut to show it. I figured the fluid had to go through stills or pillers on the side, cause these walls are VERY VERY tiny.

S1cTech

No I understand basic design and most from other cars I've seen have tubes like A/cs run through out the core of the radiator fins. Almost like coiled up going up and down. Sorry I didn't know ****ty *** cheap ones would do fins that go up and down that have fluid in between it. It is hard to tell. And I have plenty of experience, trust me, just because I didn't know a cheaper design of how nissan did their radiators doesn't mean I know jack squat. If you looked at the rad in the light and didn't think they used pillars for the fluid, you'd think the very same thing.

S1cTech

um, pretty sure I've seen them cut on their website and they show all their core designs having heatpipes go through from top to bottom welded as coils all the way through. I could be wrong though for maxima.

98maxaholic

Dude, just buy a replacement from one of the local auto parts stores...the crappiest one you can buy will probably last 5 yrs...minimum

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

He did already. See post #25.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

anyone else's head hurt besides mine?? i mean, you know, from banging it against the wall reading this thread. grasshopper, you must listen before you speak...

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Its the same design thats been used for a century. Some radiators are vertical fin and some hotizontal, but they all use flattened tubes for higher thermal efficiency.

6cyl-97maxima

^^ +1 ^^

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

S1cTech

Bro. I have seen rads cut in school and they have tubes running through them or at least have bigger fins for that matter. These look like they would get redict clogged up from scale crap or from that stop leak junk I put in that didn't even work when I had a leak.