97MaxSEblk

Hey guys,
New here, i hate to start here on such a bad note but I need some help. I see at least 2 other no start threads on this page alone is this a common thing?

Anyway, I have a 97 maxima with 280k. I was driving to work last week about half way into the drive I started to notice a faint burnt electrical (if that makes sense) smell inside the cabin. I didn't pay too much attention to it, I thought it may have been coming from the outside. As i approached my destination, i stopped at a light and the car just died on me. No sputtering or anything just cut off as if I had turned the key.

A friend pulled me off the road and we were able to get it to parking lot. Since then I feel like i've tried everything to the best of my knowledge (im not a mechanic). I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, tested relays, checked fuses, checked connections to the battery, the cam and crank sensors were replaced a few months ago. Still no start.

I tried some starter fluid, and the car started for a few seconds (sounded super weird though at times when trying to start it, like clanking inside, and other times it would sound just fine) but as soon as the fluid evaporated it died.

Some things that were done just before this no start issue:
- the car seemed to be misfiring (no misfire codes), i cleaned the throttle body and egr tube(proper name?). This seemed to solve the issue for a bit but the rpms were high at idle. Misfiring Symptoms came back...
- replaced 3 coils with brand new OEM coils and 6 new plugs. This completely solved the misfiring but idle was still high. I played around with the IACV and throttle body screw and managed to get the rpms down to where they are supposed to be.
- as part of this maintenance i had done, i decided to run some sea foam through the vacuum system and a bit in the gas tank.
- car ran fine (at least as good as it always did) for a few days until this no start issue. No prior warning, car seemed to be running fine.

*Other issues worth noting:
- the car has a significant oil leak coming from where the tranny and engine meet. Don't know its proper name, I assume it some sort of gasket.
- Also it had P0325, P0443, and P1335 which I was in the process of resolving before this happened.
* Some other things worth mentioning:
- I tried to plug in a friends handheld code reader and i kept getting a "no link" message. A mechanic tried to plug in his device as well and was not able to connect.
- I also turned the screw on the ECU and could not get the codes to blink on the dash like i had seen on a video on youtube.
- The burned electrical smell lingered in the cabin for a few days, seemed to be coming from underneath the dash on the drivers side.
- I tried getting a couple of mechanics to come over, but they just want to throw parts at it or want to do everything I have already done.
- Money is tight so I'm trying to stay away from mechanics and the dealer. After all this I'm determined to solve the issue myself or at least find it.

Anyone have any ideas or guidance as to where I can go next? Ill try to add more info as it comes to mind.

Thanks in advance for any help, and I apologize for the rather long thread.

Patm-a32

P0325 is knock sensor .. P1335 is CPS crank shaft position sensor and p0443 is an evap issue. When i had this issue i had the p1335 code for the CPS sensor, it was a pain in my *****. I went and got a new sensor and replaced it and didnt solve my issue.. Put the old oem sensor back in and changed the wiring going to the sensor, as it had been corroded from oil because the sensor runs under the oil filter. The knock sensor can be changed on ur own but it is a ***** and if u have bigger hands like i do u will bleed a bit lol. Not sure about ur evap problem but i would start with the sensors... The CPS is located about ur oil pan and the knock sensor is located under the throttle body i think?... But ur car should start even if the knock sensor was unplugged that would just effect ur gas mileage and such... Id start with the CPS and find out about ur evap code. Hope this helps u out

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Smelling burning wires or whatever is not a good thing. You are going to have to find where that smell is coming from and then figure out what the burnt stuff controls.

You can try checking all the fuses, both in the dash fuse panel and the one under the hood. And check them with a meter, a visual check is not always accurate.

One of the fuses sends power to the OBD connector. If that fuse is blown, the scanner won't recognize the car. It is fuse # 40, located under the dash, in the top right corner.

You will probably need the wiring diagram somewhere along the line for troubleshooting. The wiring diagrams are spread among the different chapters of the service manual. But 98% of them are in section EL (Electrical) and EC (Engine Control).

If you don't have the service manual (called FSM), you can download it from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/

If you find a blown fuse, look in section EL, page 6. This will tell you what the fuse powers. But it goes by fuse number, which you probably don't have any idea of what that number is. Two ways to find out the fuse number: Look verrrryy closely at the fuse block itself. There are tiny numbers molded in the plastic. Or look page 3 in the FOLDOUT section. Then you can look in the IDX section (Index) for the specific wiring diagram.

Good luck.

97MaxSEblk

thanks for the help so far guys...

I think I found my problem:








I can replace the computer but my concern is what caused it to fry in the first place. I took this (EVAP canister purge valve?) apart prior to finding the computer was fried, and found the insides to be fried (burned black):


Could this have caused my ECU to fry?

Thanks in advance for any help

Patm-a32

Ouch... I have no experience with computers so i dont wana give any advice when i dont know what im talking about.. Sorry man but on the bright side one of the hard parts is done. Ur not guessing and throwing random not needed parts at ur car. Do a search on the forum for what ur question is ul find ur answer. Good luck man

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

That suks. The part that burned is a STA509A integrated circuit. You have something shorted (duhhh... can I nail the obvious or what?). It could be the EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve that you show in the photo or it could be the IACV (Intake Air Control Valve).

Those 2 valves can be checked for shorts with an ohmmeter.
See page 230 in section EC for the EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve
See page 260 in section EC for the IACV

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/EC.pdf

But I can't tell if the ECU is repairable or destroyed. The view from the component side looks OK, but the bottom view... What may have happened is that the heat burned the traces off of the printed circuit board, but I can't tell one way or the other from the photos.

Get some rubbing alcohol and a medium stiff brush and clean all the black gunk off the printed circuit board and then you will be able to tell.