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97 Maxima axle, steering tips

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Old 07-01-2014, 05:15 PM
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97 Maxima axle, steering tips

Hello forum members.
I just bought a 1997 Maxima slush box (with 113k) 2 days ago, and I'm trying to fix some of the issues I've noticed. I'd love to hear some suggestions on parts and stores, as well as tips for replacement. Money is an issue so I'd be doing everything myself (not to mention I don't know a trustworthy mechanic). I don't race; reliability and longevity matter to me at this point in life.

1. Steering rack and pinion boots are cracked. I think both PS pump and rack&pinion are leaking. Records show that the PS pump was replaced at 94k.
I'm leaning to replacing just the boots, although the passenger side boot looks like a PITA to get to.
I can't feel any play in the tie rod ends (while messing with the wheel off the ground), but there is a shake in the steering wheel at about 70mph, and also with any kind of bumps, especially at low speeds.

2. CV axle boots are split, except for the driver side inner boot. I've driven in circles in a parking lot and I can't hear any clicking. This is at the top of the fix list. The passenger side axle was supposedly replaced at 66k, while the driver side outer boot at 47k. I'm leaning towards replacing just the boots. I've never dealt with CV axles (except removing the outer splines from the wheel hub), do I need some kind of seals for the transaxle connection?

3. The suspension bushings seem shot and the car rides a like a boat, bumps in the road are felt rather loudly. The ball joints seem ok, I couldn't find play. This is not at the top of the list.

4. There's an oil leak on the passenger side, I suspect the oil pressure sending sensor (changed at 47k). Any part suggestions?
There seems to be a slight main seal leak, but I'm not ready to deal with removing the transaxle.

5. There's a code for the knock sensor. I found the tutorial and I have medium hands. Any part suggestions?

6. How much coolant can you drain from the radiator and the 2 engine plugs?

Thanks for reading so far.
Here what I've found at Rock Auto:

2 rack&pinion boots for $17.65 - MOOG Part # K150104
outer CV boot for $9.42 - MOOG/PRECISION Part # 6426 Neoprene material
inner CV boot for $10.42 - MOOG/PRECISION Part # 4472 Neoprene material
They have a range of axles, but I don't know what to choose. I'm willing to buy axles if they come up near the same cost as the boots.
Thanks for reading and replying!

Last edited by marianm; 07-01-2014 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:06 PM
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Since money is an issue replaceing the CV boots is a good idea on quiet joints. Eric the car guy has a good youtube video.

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Old 07-02-2014, 10:51 PM
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Thanks, that is useful!
Originally Posted by asand1
Since money is an issue replaceing the CV boots is a good idea on quiet joints. Eric the car guy has a good youtube video.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by marianm
I'm leaning to replacing just the boots, although the passenger side boot looks like a PITA to get to.
Remove the whole axle, three bolts (13mm?) on the carrier bearing and it comes apart (might need a chisel and hammer to wedge between bearing and bracket), a curved box end wrench or gear wrench is invaluable.

I can't feel any play in the tie rod ends (while messing with the wheel off the ground), but there is a shake in the steering wheel at about 70mph, and also with any kind of bumps, especially at low speeds.
Rotate the tires to be sure your fronts aren't out of round or have any belt shifting. Have the tires road force tested at a good tire shop.

2. CV axle boots are split, except for the driver side inner boot. I've driven in circles in a parking lot and I can't hear any clicking. This is at the top of the fix list. The passenger side axle was supposedly replaced at 66k, while the driver side outer boot at 47k. I'm leaning towards replacing just the boots. I've never dealt with CV axles (except removing the outer splines from the wheel hub), do I need some kind of seals for the transaxle connection?
See above, and no seals necessary, unless its already leaking. Just be careful you don't gouge them when reinserting the axles.

3. The suspension bushings seem shot and the car rides a like a boat, bumps in the road are felt rather loudly. The ball joints seem ok, I couldn't find play. This is not at the top of the list.
If the control arms are not rusting away, and the Ball joints are still good, you can replace just the bushings, and energy suspension polyurethane would be easier and maybe cheaper.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1200-SENSEN-...862c17&vxp=mtr
I installed these a while ago and love them, many good revues on import sites. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ts-shocks.html

5. There's a code for the knock sensor. I found the tutorial and I have medium hands. Any part suggestions?
$5 ebay sensors work great, but If you have any other codes, the KS code is very likely false, Maximas tend to do this. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ck-sensor.html

6. How much coolant can you drain from the radiator and the 2 engine plugs?
DO NOT remove the plugs, the plugs are a PITA and dont seal well when reinstalled. Drain and fill with distilled water until it comes out clear, then add 1 Gallon full strength coolant. I like the Prestone AM/AM, but Zerex G-05 sound better as it doesnt have 2 EHA (a plasticizer known to shrink some rubber gaskets.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hate-free.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lant-leak.html

They have a range of axles (Rockauto), but I don't know what to choose. I'm willing to buy axles if they come up near the same cost as the boots.
I have the APWI passenger side axle, Its working great, but I would recommending spending a little more for the EMPI. Whatever you do, get new, not reman as they grind away the case hardening and don't re-harden them.
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...e-quality.html
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:07 PM
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Thanks a lot asand1! Your tips are very much apreciated!
I have ordered the boots and Oil Pressure sending sensor yesterday morning. I just need to order some more stuff, and I'll update the thread once I do the repairs.
Originally Posted by asand1
Remove the whole axle, three bolts (13mm?) on the carrier bearing and it comes apart (might need a chisel and hammer to wedge between bearing and bracket), a curved box end wrench or gear wrench is invaluable.

Rotate the tires to be sure your fronts aren't out of round or have any belt shifting. Have the tires road force tested at a good tire shop.

See above, and no seals necessary, unless its already leaking. Just be careful you don't gouge them when reinserting the axles.

If the control arms are not rusting away, and the Ball joints are still good, you can replace just the bushings, and energy suspension polyurethane would be easier and maybe cheaper.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1200-SENSEN-Shocks-Struts-for-Nissan-Full-Set-NEW-Lifetime-Warranty-/331123928087?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A1996|Model%3AMaxima&hash=item4d18862c 17&vxp=mtr
I installed these a while ago and love them, many good revues on import sites. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ts-shocks.html


$5 ebay sensors work great, but If you have any other codes, the KS code is very likely false, Maximas tend to do this. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ck-sensor.html

DO NOT remove the plugs, the plugs are a PITA and dont seal well when reinstalled. Drain and fill with distilled water until it comes out clear, then add 1 Gallon full strength coolant. I like the Prestone AM/AM, but Zerex G-05 sound better as it doesnt have 2 EHA (a plasticizer known to shrink some rubber gaskets.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hate-free.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lant-leak.html

I have the APWI passenger side axle, Its working great, but I would recommending spending a little more for the EMPI. Whatever you do, get new, not reman as they grind away the case hardening and don't re-harden them.
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...e-quality.html
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:34 AM
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update

I got around to doing some work on the car last week. Getting the locking nuts of the tie rods loose was a PITA, but I finally succeeded with the use of a propane torch. 19mm, 22mm and 13mm wrenches are needed here.

The Moog 4472 inner CV boots didn't fit the axles, I had to use boots bought locally. Taking the CV joints apart is a big task. Cleaning them of the old grease is very difficult even when using odorless mineral spirits, coleman fuel and brake parts cleaner.

I replaced the oil pressure sending unit, but it looks like the leak is actually coming from above, from the upper oil pan gasket or something. Valve cover gaskets were replaced by shops not so many miles ago.

Thanks again asand1! BTW, I noticed you're concerned with oversize filters - I used a Purolator L20073 for the oil filter, it fits well, but the splash shield has to come off to install/remove the filter. The L14459 also fits while the L14619 doesn't fit (OD is too big for the VQ30de).

Last edited by marianm; 08-02-2014 at 09:39 AM.
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