97 maxima wont go over 50 mph, should I buy?

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Aug 26, 2014 | 08:16 PM
  #1  
Saw a car for $400, owner says its a 1997 maxima automatic, it wont go over 50mph though. Body looks ok, says there are no.known engine problems, car has 225k miles, should I buy it?
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Aug 26, 2014 | 10:56 PM
  #2  
No known problems?!?!? Who is this guy trying to kid besides you? It has one heck of a big one - it won't go over 50 mph.

I would guess that it is in what we call "limp" mode where the engine will not rev over 2500 rpm. I would also guess that the check engine light is on (if the light bulb hasn't been taken out).

Drive the car to an auto parts store and ask them to read the codes for the check engine light.

There are many things that could be causing this problem. Some of them are expensive. If you do not work on cars yourself, it could be very expensive.
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Aug 26, 2014 | 11:07 PM
  #3  
Offer him $200 or $250. At that price point, I'd take the gamble. If nothing else, you can part the car out and make at least 4 to 5 times your money back.
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Aug 26, 2014 | 11:24 PM
  #4  
Quote: Offer him $200 or $250. At that price point, I'd take the gamble. If nothing else, you can part the car out and make at least 4 to 5 times your money back.
Yeah thats what I was gonna do, If I do buy it, was gonna replace the transmission if it is indeed a transmission problem, and then maybe keep or sell the car.
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Aug 27, 2014 | 12:39 AM
  #5  
Following what other have suggested, take it for a test drive. Does it not go over 50 mph because the rpms are stuck at 2500? If so, that's a minor problem: The MAF. Low ball him and get the best price. The fix is easy. Check other stuff as well like the check engine light etc. It may be a huge bargain.

On the other hand, if you drive it and the automatic is in D, but the car wont go up in gears, that could be major $$$. Step away.
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Aug 27, 2014 | 02:39 AM
  #6  
Quote: Following what other have suggested, take it for a test drive. Does it not go over 50 mph because the rpms are stuck at 2500? If so, that's a minor problem: The MAF. Low ball him and get the best price. The fix is easy. Check other stuff as well like the check engine light etc. It may be a huge bargain.

On the other hand, if you drive it and the automatic is in D, but the car wont go up in gears, that could be major $$$. Step away.

Ok great idea, im hoping it is just the maf,because I happen to have a spare one here with me, gonna check it out this weekend.
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Aug 27, 2014 | 06:18 PM
  #7  
My car doesn't pass 2500 RPM, but I can get up to 80-90+ MPH overtime. I already know its a MAF issue but havn't had the time to deal with it as its not a big deal to me.

but if it cant go over 50 MPH.. that can be a issue, low ball him and get the car very cheap!
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Aug 28, 2014 | 04:17 PM
  #8  
If you not prepared or willing to spend as much $1500-$2000(thinking worst case) for a proper repair I cannot say it is worth it.
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Aug 28, 2014 | 04:34 PM
  #9  
If you only do in town driving you may not have to worry about going over 50 and drive it till it dies lol. All kidding aside and you really are interested in taking the gamble try doing what wizard said and offer 250 and if it's a minor fix well then you scored and if it's major or going to cost more than the car is worth you could either scrap it and have a yard give you pretty much what you paid or part it out and sell the good stuff here on the org. Or eBay.
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Aug 28, 2014 | 04:49 PM
  #10  
It reminds me of the I30 when I got it with similar mileage. After I got it running, I went on to make the following DIY repairs within the next 12 months:

Tokico Blues (struts) with bushings and bearings
Anti-sway bar end links and bushings
CV Joints/Axles with transmission seals
Wheel Bearing
New Tires (Actually from Maxima #1)
Battery
Alternator
Belts
Crankshaft Pulley and Front Seal
Transmission Fluid (changed it 5 times to get to clear up)
Brake Fluid Changed
Power Steering Fluid Changed
New Plugs
Fuel Filter
Radio (Salvage Yard Bose Replacement)
Timing Chain Tensioner (I got one of the last OEM versions before the change)
Hood Support Shocks
Valve Cover Gaskets
Starter (Salvage Yard Remy Rebuilt)
Mass Air Flow Sensor (Salvage Yard)
IACV (Salvage Yard)
Radiator Grommets
Clock (Salvage Yard)
Center Console Armrest (Salvage Yard)
Center Console Cup Holder (Salvage Yard)
Tan Leather Seats (Salvage Yard - from a mint condition wrecked I30)
New O2 Sensors (3 NTK/NGK)


New Heater Hoses to be installed in September

Things I aim to do before winter:

New Fuel Pressure Regulator
Refurbish Injectors
Punch Out Cats

Luckily the previous owner had just installed a new radiator and fuel pump.

Now that I have it all caught up on maintenance, it should be good for another 100,000 miles. Ha!
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Aug 28, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #11  
Wow that is alot of work you put into your car. My plan is to hope that it isnt badly neglected, figure out if it needs transmission or not, fix it up, maybe keep it as a spare or sell it since its so cheap, would be a great project to do,worst case if it is a transmission problem there is a salvage yard near me that I can get a replacement tranny from.
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Aug 28, 2014 | 09:41 PM
  #12  
Can't really go wrong if you're buying it for $250-300
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Aug 29, 2014 | 08:08 AM
  #13  
My brother-in-law got a 98 Camry with 150M, his wife got stranded on the road one night, had it towed to a BP with a service shop. The next morning, the shop called and said it looked like it is going to cost $1000 to make it run again. They decided to walk away from the car, forfeited the towing cost ($50) and bought another second-hand car.

I knew their decision, could have prevented it, but decided not to interfere. They had taken care the car per recommended maintenance. Their perception is when car gets to 200000 it is time to get rid of to save cost and headache.

Those who bought to fix up the car would be very lucky.
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