99 water pump change
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 237
From: Hyde Park, NY
99 water pump change
Looks like I am finally gonna have to change the water pump after 198K miles. I have the FSM, but have a couple points I would like to clarify.. Can this be done from underneath (inside the wheel well), or from above? Do all the belts have to be removed, and/or the motor mount? What gasket sealant should be used on the 2 covers that have to be removed? Appreciate any feedback from someone who has done this, I am sure there are some 'gotchas' that I will run into.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
One of our members published a series of videos about replacing the water pump.
Last winter I purchased a new timing chain tensioner to replace the original as preventative maintenance. I had replaced the original tensioner on my I30 a couple of years earlier with another OEM from the dealer. Unfortunately the design changed and I could not get an "old style" tensioner like the original without changing timing chain guides. So be careful that a replacement tensioner may be different enough to keep it from being a drop in replacement. Some of our other members may know the reason for the design change.
1 of 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibfs1Zu9h4o
2 of 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMBIjrYxYMU
3 or 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Urfeyq5mgU
::
#boredmder
Last winter I purchased a new timing chain tensioner to replace the original as preventative maintenance. I had replaced the original tensioner on my I30 a couple of years earlier with another OEM from the dealer. Unfortunately the design changed and I could not get an "old style" tensioner like the original without changing timing chain guides. So be careful that a replacement tensioner may be different enough to keep it from being a drop in replacement. Some of our other members may know the reason for the design change.
1 of 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibfs1Zu9h4o
2 of 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMBIjrYxYMU
3 or 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Urfeyq5mgU
::
#boredmder
Last edited by CS_AR; Dec 5, 2014 at 06:24 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 393
From: Philly Suburb
You do it from the top, but you need to remove the wheel and wheel well liner to access the crank bolt, it is also good idea to replace the belts while you are there.
No, you don't need to take the engine mount out, though the space is really tight but is workable. The most difficult part is to remove and re-install the timing chain tensioner, use a cloth hanger with a second help it can be done. You might need to bend a screw driver to L shape so you can push the tensioner piston back , insert a pin into to retaining hole so the piston remains compressed then you can take it out, be careful not to let the piston shoot out when you take the tensioner out. I will suggest to replace the tensioner too. Use Utra-grey RTV, remove the old gasket from the cover grove, clean the mating surface.
Good luck.
No, you don't need to take the engine mount out, though the space is really tight but is workable. The most difficult part is to remove and re-install the timing chain tensioner, use a cloth hanger with a second help it can be done. You might need to bend a screw driver to L shape so you can push the tensioner piston back , insert a pin into to retaining hole so the piston remains compressed then you can take it out, be careful not to let the piston shoot out when you take the tensioner out. I will suggest to replace the tensioner too. Use Utra-grey RTV, remove the old gasket from the cover grove, clean the mating surface.
Good luck.
Last edited by theWalkinator; Dec 6, 2014 at 08:37 AM.
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