Hi guys,
I have a 97 i30, 5-speed with 205k miles and has begun to run like crap.

I know I have a leaking y-pipe, but not so sure its the cause.

The car bogs under acceleration. It still goes, but feels choked. Sometimes after higher RPM's it will begin running normally.

Throwing an O2 sensor code and p1445 undefined, so not much help.

Where to start?

• MAF?
• Fuel filter? (just added Techtron 500 miles ago)
• Y-pipe
• Coils?(the plugs are pretty new, and i think most coils were replaced 20k miles ago before I bought it)
• Injectors?
• Dead Cylinder?

Thanks in advance. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

P1445 is a purge valve easy to change it's located right on the manifold, I have one if you in need it, did you try unplugging the coils to see if it makes differences in how the engine runs

 

Ill try the coils...

How much for the purge valve? New? You accept paypal?

Thanks

 

do sparkplugs, fuel filter, and intake cleaning (maf,throttle body, etc.) probably might help a little bit but not much. You say that you have new coil packs. Are they OEM? or OE from a aftermarket manufacturer? If so, that may be your problem. Our cars dont like aftermarket coils very much. I've read that 5th gens are even more particular.

 

I tried each coil one-by-one. After disconnecting each, the engine bogged down worse with each, leading me to believe it wasnt the coils. If it was any one coil, disconnecting it would not change how the engine is running if it was bad. (I think)

 

Try replacing your spark plugks with ngk vpower coppers. Should help if your unsure of the last tune up done to your car. If your not in the boat to diy, find some cheap mexican to do it at a shop

 

Leaking y pipe and o2 code tells me your O2 sensor is getting a bad reading and causing you to run rich (or lean).

Leak allows excess oxygen into exhaust.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

 

So the problem does not occur every time, its sporadic. The spark plugs are about a year old.

I am leaning towards crappy aftermarket coil replacements being the culprit. I wish I was sure before making that investment as the rad support is holding on by a thread, but we will see.

 

Yes, but is this likely to cause any of the noted symptoms? It def smells rich.

I would buy a y-pipe tomorrow, but I don't think the car will last long enough to justify the expense.

 

The coils are wat I believe it is, this car loves oem Nissan equipment specially when it comes to electrical components for the engine,

 

Yes. With the wrong A/F ratio, it won't matter what condition anything else is in.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

 

It's pretty obvious to me most replyers here have never had to tune a carb, and don't understand the O2's role in engine management.

Sent from my XT1060 using Maxima

 

Sporadic ON and OFF symptoms suggests something electrical that's close to determining spark is acting up. Either it's the MAF slowly dying or your coils.

You can get a used MAF from the Junkyard. Coils you want to stick to OEM, or perhaps Hitachi from Amazon.

 

Check your knock sensor i had the same kind of symptoms and replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, coil packs, MAF, cleaned EGR tube to get no fix placed a 470k RESISTOR into knock sensor and BAM the the sluggishness was gone.
The knock sensor adjusts the timing so if it is screwed your timing will be out and it wont run properly. I was tearing my hair out with this problem for about six months and all it cost was 5cents to fix it temporarily,
please check it as for some reason even though mine was a broken wire from fro a KS harness it threw no code at all please check man

 

^This

 

I've been through all the primary control ignition regulators and come to the conclusion that if a code isn't thrown it isn't there. Knock sensors are a pain to replace. I had overlooked the equivalent of the "plug wires" which are the connector boots from the coil to the plug. I was told by 2 experienced guys locally that is probably where it is... secondary ignition leakage. For about $12 I bought a set (back are longer than the front) and the problem is solved and the mileage has gone back up. They are called COP Boot & Spring. found them on Ebay. Carquest number 35-6214 and 35-6213. BTW I have the E3 plugs in the car, and they have performed quite well. Go the easy cheap route.
If it doesn't have a code, it ain't broke.

 

Knock sensor is easy man you dont need to take intake manifold off it is in the middle of the valley just get a long flat ring spanner and a torch it seriosly takes about twenty minutes definetly worth checking it fixed mine and it runs perfect now

 

and not all problems will give a code man

 

Someone before me made a ground off the MAF clip to a screw on the intake manifold. I giggled that wire a bit and it has run perfectly since. Idk why its there, but I think that had a lot to do with what I was experiencing.

 

A leaking Ypipe tell me you've got bad engine mounts