How long will my car last on battery? is it my alternator or battery?
02-28-2015, 04:04 PM
#1
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How long will my car last on battery? is it my alternator or battery?
Brake light and battery light is on. The lights are dim kind of. The car still starts though and I can't fix it till Monday. I need to work within a one mile radius. I only use the car 4-10 mins one way. So that means I need the lights on when I go back home. Does this sound like alternator too? Why would the car still start? This started today at 6 am and I had to drive it like that for 15 miles and made it.
03-01-2015, 12:27 AM
#5
Your alternator is on its way out. You're playing with fire by continuing to drive it. It could make it short distances until Monday, or maybe it will die on you. It's anybody's guess really.
03-01-2015, 03:08 AM
#7
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Charge the battery good before you strike out in the car again.
When a friend's I30 lost an alternator we could drive it roughly 10 blocks before the battery would drain and the engine would stop running. When it quit, we had to let it coast into a parking lot to get it off the street. Next I had to hook up jumper cables from my car with her car turned off, then use my car's alternator to charge up the battery for roughly 30 minutes so her car could be started and driven another 10 blocks. It avoided a wrecker fee but it took a while to get the car home that day. Nope she didn't have roadside assistance. Oh wait. Yes she did. It was me.
When a friend's I30 lost an alternator we could drive it roughly 10 blocks before the battery would drain and the engine would stop running. When it quit, we had to let it coast into a parking lot to get it off the street. Next I had to hook up jumper cables from my car with her car turned off, then use my car's alternator to charge up the battery for roughly 30 minutes so her car could be started and driven another 10 blocks. It avoided a wrecker fee but it took a while to get the car home that day. Nope she didn't have roadside assistance. Oh wait. Yes she did. It was me.
Last edited by CS_AR; 03-01-2015 at 03:26 AM.
03-01-2015, 03:24 PM
#8
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Could amp and subwoofer kill an alternator?
Idk what amp the alternator the previous owner put in this car but it killed it in just 25,000 miles, receipt said he spent 356$ on parts and labor. Idk how long an alternotor really is supposed to last. But the car also has a 900 watt amp and a subwoofer that's 45lb with two 10 inch speakers. I use that every day.
03-01-2015, 08:27 PM
#10
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On a full battery with no optional stuff (stereo, blower motor, defroster etc.) I would guess 4-5 miles or 10 minutes shouldn't be unreasonable. I made it 7 miles at night with an Audi with a shot alternator. I say go for it, but don't yell at me if you don't make it.
03-01-2015, 09:19 PM
#12
Can a OEM Bose kill the Altenator? NO! You need to invest in an aftermarket high output altenator you need a heavy duty unit:
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...an-maxima.html
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com...an-maxima.html
03-02-2015, 12:44 PM
#13
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I asked that question some time ago (here or in some other forum, I forget), and was told you can run a car with most of the electrical stuff off for up to 4 hours on battery alone. Of course, that assumes a fully charged battery in good shape, and once your alternator starts to go you're going to be draining the battery. If you have a charger and re-charge it every night, and the battery is in decent shape, you ought to be able to get to work and back.
But if it dies, you didn't hear that from me...
But if it dies, you didn't hear that from me...
03-02-2015, 01:03 PM
#14
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If you can get it to an AZ, Advance or O'Reilly's they'll test your charging system and see what's going on. I agree it sounds like the alternator has failed/is failing; but I recommend you verify the problem before you start throwing money at it.
For anyone else reading, I invested in one of these gizmos and it works great:
It tests batteries, charging and starting systems. It's something you don't use every day, but it comes in handy when you need it.
For anyone else reading, I invested in one of these gizmos and it works great:
It tests batteries, charging and starting systems. It's something you don't use every day, but it comes in handy when you need it.
Last edited by talkinghorse; 03-02-2015 at 03:34 PM.
03-02-2015, 05:16 PM
#16
After you verify the alternator is toasted then install another unit immediately. My alternator blew on the way to work last August. I smelt something burn for a few minutes but the brake & battery lights don't appear until after the car is started again. My battery was 2.5 years old but being a 24F with 750 CCA it started easy and got me home that night driving 25 miles. I knew the alternator wasn't working with those brake & battery lights warning signal so I left all electrical equipment off. Didn't need the lights on at 6pm in August.
That night I checked all the wires and fuses and nothing was wrong. The diode kit inside the alternator was no doubt burnt. The battery still read 12.4V that night because I recharge it for 3 to 4 hours during every oil change. Instead of buying several new batteries over the next month I baught a new alternator at autozone the next morning. I got the Duralast Gold DLG13284. With a tax free weekend and 20% off coupon I got it for $144. It's a new alternator with a lifetime warranty spitting out 125amps. It's worked fine and is keeping my 3 year old 24F battery fully charged.
That night I checked all the wires and fuses and nothing was wrong. The diode kit inside the alternator was no doubt burnt. The battery still read 12.4V that night because I recharge it for 3 to 4 hours during every oil change. Instead of buying several new batteries over the next month I baught a new alternator at autozone the next morning. I got the Duralast Gold DLG13284. With a tax free weekend and 20% off coupon I got it for $144. It's a new alternator with a lifetime warranty spitting out 125amps. It's worked fine and is keeping my 3 year old 24F battery fully charged.
03-02-2015, 08:02 PM
#17
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Help with alternator again please. Is it battery or alternator
my alternator went out 2 days ago. The battery and brake light were solid on. Before it used to fade in and out. The lights dimmed completely by 50% and didn't charge it. For a day or two I drove the car like that and the battery got weak. I had someone put in a new duralast gold alternator today. The battery and brake lights cleared away from tach. It works. But something is wrong, the lights go completely dim by 50% and then it goes to 100% brightness and back down. Think of it like an ac compressor turning on and off, except it comes on when it wants too. Is the battery bad? Or Is it this stupid alternator again? The alternator does need another connector though. I had terminal wiring put in it because the dealer does not sell the wiring alone. They want you to pay 400 for both alternator and connector. I tested the battery with car off and it reads 12.0 and with a load it read 11 and was weak
Last edited by JLA117; 03-02-2015 at 08:06 PM.
03-02-2015, 09:42 PM
#18
Loose connection somewhere....You may not too check your battery CCA compared to what it's rated for....Check it without a load as well and see where the altenator voltage is....Check your fuses and fusible link to back sure they're all good as well...
03-02-2015, 10:40 PM
#19
Threads merged. Keep all your battery and alternator issues in one thread please....
Why would you install a new battery w/o doing your due diligence in troubleshooting?
And what I quoted, is that with a new battery? If so, you're already killing it. Those number are bad and indicate a weak alternator.
And what's this connector for the alternator that you're talking about? You can't mickey mouse the alternator connections. Be clear, show pics etc.
And what I quoted, is that with a new battery? If so, you're already killing it. Those number are bad and indicate a weak alternator.
And what's this connector for the alternator that you're talking about? You can't mickey mouse the alternator connections. Be clear, show pics etc.
03-02-2015, 11:35 PM
#20
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It's not a new battery. The alternator is brand new. The alternator plastic connector that plugs into alternator fried. So we recut the wires and put female terminals on the two prongs on the alternator. No one sells the connector anywhere. Junk yards in Arizona suck. And I need a temporary connection now not later. I need to work and stuff until I order the connector on eBay or something.
03-03-2015, 12:31 AM
#21
My bad. I read "duralast gold" and thought battery. You gotta get the right connector...and why did the previous one melt/fry? That could be a clue of what's going on.
You're gonna have to double check all the wiring from the alternator on...
"I tested the battery with car off and it reads 12.0 and with a load it read 11 and was weak" is no good. Alt is bad or your wiring/some connection is bad. Since you just replaced the alternator, I would temporarily rule out a bad alternator as that's not too likely at this point.
Hit us schmellyfart, I bet he knows all the junkyards in AZ.
You're gonna have to double check all the wiring from the alternator on...
"I tested the battery with car off and it reads 12.0 and with a load it read 11 and was weak" is no good. Alt is bad or your wiring/some connection is bad. Since you just replaced the alternator, I would temporarily rule out a bad alternator as that's not too likely at this point.
Hit us schmellyfart, I bet he knows all the junkyards in AZ.
03-03-2015, 09:41 PM
#23
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Is there a short in my vehicle?
Recently my alternator toasted. Got a new one from autozone. Installed it and was charging when it wanted too. I looked at wiring harness and that was kinda toasted too. I replaced it and still the alternator charges when it wants. What the hell. Bad alternator battery or short somewhere? Even with the old alternator before it toasted it didn't act like this. I can't keep paying my mechanic to take it out and in. I'm about to sell this damn car. What is it? Tester runs at 14.2 volts when I fired it up after replacing harness and then 10 mins later lights were not as bright and ran at 12.4 volts
03-03-2015, 11:34 PM
#24
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My bad. I read "duralast gold" and thought battery. You gotta get the right connector...and why did the previous one melt/fry? That could be a clue of what's going on.
You're gonna have to double check all the wiring from the alternator on...
"I tested the battery with car off and it reads 12.0 and with a load it read 11 and was weak" is no good. Alt is bad or your wiring/some connection is bad. Since you just replaced the alternator, I would temporarily rule out a bad alternator as that's not too likely at this point.
Hit us schmellyfart, I bet he knows all the junkyards in AZ.
You're gonna have to double check all the wiring from the alternator on...
"I tested the battery with car off and it reads 12.0 and with a load it read 11 and was weak" is no good. Alt is bad or your wiring/some connection is bad. Since you just replaced the alternator, I would temporarily rule out a bad alternator as that's not too likely at this point.
Hit us schmellyfart, I bet he knows all the junkyards in AZ.
03-04-2015, 01:10 AM
#27
03-04-2015, 10:39 PM
#28
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So does anyone know what the problem is? I found the wiring harness brand new from the dealer and installed it and the alternator is doing same thing and I noticed it charges the car on a cold start ONLY and when the car is close to fully warm temp then alternator stops working completely. It does turn on when it wants after its all warmed up but that chance is very slim. Rpms idle is at 900 without alternator charging the battery and when it does it goes back to normal car idle of 600 rpm. Is the alternator bad? What is it before I keep killing battery.
03-04-2015, 10:50 PM
#29
Since you don't have the time to troubleshoot yourself, I think you need to go get two free opinions. Go to Autozone and Pepboys or Oreilys...they'll test your alternator for free. You may be overlooking something simple. Just might be time to take it to your mechanic after you get your two free opinions.
03-04-2015, 11:27 PM
#31
You had too. You, me, and the rest of us had no confidence in your old connector/wiring. Now we can focus on other things, or revisit the alternator again. This is why I suggested you go get 2nd opinions for free.
If I have time tomorrow, I'm going to pop my hood and see if there is anything that you could be overlooking.
If I have time tomorrow, I'm going to pop my hood and see if there is anything that you could be overlooking.
03-04-2015, 11:38 PM
#32
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Oreily did say it's the alternator and battery. But it can't be battery since its holding a good charge it was alternators fault for not charging it in the first place. But I'm getting mixed opinions outside this forum too. I can't take out alternator till sat or sun with my uncle because I'm not gonna pay to have someone take it out and in. I did this work outside the shop. I have personal mechanic doing it.
03-05-2015, 06:22 AM
#34
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Even though you recently replaced the alternator doesn't mean you didn't get a bad one. You said you bought it at AZ? Now that you know what O'Reillys said, take the car back to AZ and have them test it. If it's bad, they should give you a new one under warranty.
Last edited by talkinghorse; 03-05-2015 at 06:29 AM.
03-05-2015, 11:22 PM
#35
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Check the ground wires on it. This actually happened to me a few days ago. Hooked it up to power tester and realized it wasn't charging. Replaced the alt under warranty, still wasnt charging. Moved a ground wire around a bit and boom, started charging again. So definitely you or someone else check out your grounds before you spend $$$ on an alt you might not even need.
03-08-2015, 05:25 AM
#36
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Well got everything fixed now. Was a defective alternator. But I also had a rewiring to the positive post since it looked all weird. Previous owner wired it his way to revive the car because his friend gave him the car when no power was going through it. But I always had this issue. With headlights on and stopped at a light it vibrates. Put the fog lights and it'll vibrate more. Without all that the car vibration is barely noticeable. Is it battery? Load is at 11 volts which is yellow level. They've said lower than 9.6 it's no good. Battery is charged to at 12.9 volt.
03-08-2015, 07:09 AM
#37
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I don't think it's the battery; rather, normal behavior caused by the increased load of the accessories. As you know, idle speed and other functions are controlled by the ECU. Default idle speed is set low for a number of reasons. Your local Nissan dealer can easily make changes to the ECU settings with their CONSULT system. I believe if you have the basic idle speed bumped up a smidgen the vibration you're feeling will go away.
Last edited by talkinghorse; 03-08-2015 at 08:11 AM.
03-08-2015, 03:44 PM
#38
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I don't think it's the battery; rather, normal behavior caused by the increased load of the accessories. As you know, idle speed and other functions are controlled by the ECU. Default idle speed is set low for a number of reasons. Your local Nissan dealer can easily make changes to the ECU settings with their CONSULT system. I believe if you have the basic idle speed bumped up a smidgen the vibration you're feeling will go away.
03-09-2015, 08:04 AM
#39
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Thanks, yea Idle has always been 600 and then 500 on drive. Actually the battery reads 10.8 volts under load. The alternator is working harder to keep it at 14.5 when on. Maybe that's why. I'll try and get a second opinion and have auto store put it in a better tester. If I did have the rpms a little higher it might be harder on the brakes. When the alternator was killed last weak it idled at 900 for some reason and it was harder on the brakes and you felt the down shift into first gear harder as you try and stop.
Check the label under your hood, but I believe spec on your car is 700 rpm plus or minus 50 in Neutral. If yours is idling at 600 that probably too low.
Last edited by talkinghorse; 03-09-2015 at 10:03 AM.
03-11-2015, 05:15 AM
#40
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When I say to bump it up "a smidgen" that means 50/75/100 rpm...just enough to smooth it out at idle and under load.
Check the label under your hood, but I believe spec on your car is 700 rpm plus or minus 50 in Neutral. If yours is idling at 600 that probably too low.
Check the label under your hood, but I believe spec on your car is 700 rpm plus or minus 50 in Neutral. If yours is idling at 600 that probably too low.