I ask a lot because I'm restoring this maximas components and parts so I need possible causes before I do the next thing. Here's what happened once. I accerlated in first gear till like 30 and let go of gas pedal completely and the car just felt like if it got punched. It shifted violently maybe into 4th since I'm at high mph but did it hard. Any time I let go of gas pedal it clunks into second going about 10 mph, but that is only if I let go of gas pedal completely. In reverse it clunks too. But if I don't let go of gas pedal while driving the transmission shifts very smooth into all 4 gears. Aamco test drove car many times for other things and always said transmission was fine. One of the techs did say the rear mount needs replacing and that's why it clunks on reverse. If it's the mounts then which one? Can't be the transmission mount also can it? Last time they said to recommend the bottom two mounts if not all motor mounts.

 

Hard shifting is certainly a symptom of bad motor mount(s). And especially with an auto transmission.

The likely suspect is the motor mount located in the rear of the engine bay; this mount takes the brunt of the force when the engine torques from accelerating and shifting. If you look under the car, theres a big metal crossmember that runs from front to back of the underside of the engine bay. Theres two engine mounts located on this crossmember, the one you want to check out is the one towards the back of the car.

Not to confuse you more, but be aware that *technically* these mounts are known as the left (closest to radiator) and right (closest to firewall AKA one you want) motor mounts. The labeling isnt based on the car but rather the orientation of the engine - front of the engine is where all the belts are. Hope that makes sense, just something to keep in mind as terminology on these can differ place to place.

 

Could possibly be a bad mount but sounds more like its valve body or solonoid related.

 

Yes. The right one is kind of broken. I hate when it shifts like that when I do it out of aggression doing passing gear from 55 and up when idiots go 55 on a 65. I think that's what finished my alternator when it was going bad. Right on that shift it killed it. Who knows what else that could damage. Thanks

 

Also forgot to mention, does the symptoms also include rough start on engine and when I'm stopped and suddenly accelerate it does that punch to the engine too?

 

Yup, when you suddenly accelerate and you hear a slap/knock/bang, that means your motor mount(s) are shot.

 

What will happen in the long run if I don't change them? Just asking because I wanna know for future. I'm gonna have the rear or right mount changed along with rack and pinion on Sunday.

 

What will happen in the long run if I don't change them? Just asking because I wanna know for future. I'm gonna have the rear or right mount changed along with rack and pinion on Sunday.

 

If you feel like your transmission is also louder than it should be...if it has a grinding quality to the sound its definitely motor mounts. I did mine and it was a different car afterwards. You may want to consider getting a "manual" transmission mount instead of the electric auto one. Less problems...less frying of the cpu.....more stability. At the cost of a little bit more vibration at idle of course.

 

That's a descent rate of acceleration, no? What do you think will happen when the throttle is suddenly closed? Poor car's telling you it doesn't like that behavior.
Here's two pointers.
1) Change your driving habits
2) Change the motor mount that Aamco found to be bad.

 

But hey it's not a habit, sometimes you need to suddenly let go of gas pedal completely while accerlating. But the car shouldn't do that in first place. I'll avoid as much as possible till I get that rear mount fixed.

 

[QUOTE=njmaxseltd;9029931]That's a descent rate of acceleration, no? What do you think will happen when the throttle is suddenly closed?

Sometimes you need to go fast

 

I got that rear mount changed and the problem still there. The front one looks like it needs changing too but I thought all the clunking cause is from the rear? Could the front also be the problem? I wonder how long the new one will last with all that clunking and sudden bang if I start accelerating (if done normally)

 

Its definitely the front if the clunking and banging is in drive. If its in reverse its the rear one. I had the same issue recently. I replaced both anyway since i was there; the rear one had a few hairline cracks starting, but my front one was completely gone.

You can also check to see the movement of your motor by putting it in drive, holding the brake firmly with parking brake also on and revving your engine carefully. If it still moves, than you know the problem wasnt the one you just replaced.

 

You have to replace the front as well. I figured you'd start by doing the front and rear and see how it performs, then do the sides as necessary.

On the bright side, you did the hardest one, so the rest will be easier.

Just drive like a grandma until you replace the front, then no excellerated deterioration of the new rear will occur.

 

Engine rises about 2-3 inches with brake and gas pedal. There are only three mounts. It rises from the front end of the engine (where radiator is) must be front. There's another mount on the top right passenger side.

 

You have 4 mounts total..3 old ones remaining..

 

I know there's 4 but the last one is the transmission one

 

Eh, it's still a mount. The tranny is connected to the motor isn't it? LOL
Replace them in pairs (front and back, and both sides)

 

I have to look at it. To many components car needs all at once. The bill increases

 

Car was technically 900.00 with rebuilt tranny and motor. But has 200k. Went from 900 to 2600.00 already all just components. Hope I don't need those also lol

 

Front mount fixed it. Looks like you also take off mounts just to do rack and pinion. Had that done too