ok so this is my brother car, he has a 95 maxima with 66k on it. its a baby man. so anyway for several years it has always had a hard time starting and would not catch unless you hit the gas while starting it. so i assumed (incorrectly) that it was the starter and replaced it. now it wont run. everything is original to the car. what is happening is it sounds like the timing is too far advanced for some reason and the spark is not catching during ignition. if you smash your foot on the gas while starting you can get it to run above 2k rpm like a clock but will not hold a idle and stall out (it is a auto). there was a code for camshaft position sensor which i replaced all camshaft and crankshaft sensors (dont remember which one has 1 and 2). either way they are all new and it did not make a diffrence. i am at a loss with this one, i have checked MAF, sensors, spark plugs, coils, new starter, new battery, grounds all check out. i cant figure it out, any idea?

 

I'd say you need to get into checking the fuel system....low fuel pressure possibly... Pump, filter, injectors...start with the cheapest...

 

I always look at vacuum leaks with idle problems. Might be a bad IACV - I had one go bad, but I could keep a good idle pressing the gas. Just for kicks, put a vacuum gauge on and see what it reads.

If it can run well above 2k, it should be getting enough fuel to idle. Fuel can be the cause of a long crank to start. There was something in here about the connection between the bell housing and the engine causing a hard start.

 

Might be a bad FPR.

I'd start with the easy stuff, like cleaning IACV and TB. I've seen dirty TB's and IACV's cause starting issues like you've described. In fact, it happened to me with a Maxima I bought. The seller tricked me and had the car nice and warm so that when I arrived it would start right up. When I got it home and started it the next day cold, I had starting issues like you. I lived like this for 6 months until I cleaned my TB and IACV. Problem went away and has been a champ for the last 5 years. I've also had a bad FPR cause starting issues like you on another Max of mine.

 

thanks guys, it only started to not hold a idle after i changed the starter, so im thinking its something i disturbed on my way to doing that. DEFINITELY could be a vacuum leak or bad iacv. just a few questions:

how do i check for a vacuum leak? what tools do i need?
how do i test out the IACV?
what is the FPR?/how do i make sure it is working?

when i had the air ducts off i checked the inside of the throttle body and it was clean as a whistle.

Thanks again for the info!

 

You will likely need a Mity-Vac or an equivalent type of tool to check for your vacuum leak(s). They are jut a good tool to have any ways. Otherwise larger ones can be heard by naked ear or others use a can of WD-40 etc to spray around suspect fittings. If the running motor's rpms increase, bingo there's your leak or at least one of your leaks. Some leaks can be found by visually examining the hoses for cracks etc.

The IACV should give you a whirling sound when your ignition is turned to the second position, which I believe is "on" vs. "acc". Normally during your start sequence you probably don't even think to listen for it as it whirls/swirls for a second before the starter is energized. Otherwise it is easy to remove and clean and verify the little rotor spins inside it.

The FRP, is the Fuel Pressure Regulator. You might be able to use the Mity Vac here as well otherwise most parts houses have a loan a tool program. But in the meantime review the thread for the leaning the EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) tube as it contains useful information regarding the IACV. Then download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) and research how NISMO wants you to trouble shoot the FRP they will likely have go/no-go specs there.

 

So the last thing you did was change out the starter.....
When I changed the starter I needed to remove the air box to get more room. I had to unplug the sensors that are on the box.
If I did not re-attach the plugs on the sensors the car might run like yours.

Please confirm that everything is firmly plugged in to the sensors.

Please make sure the

 

everything is definitely plugged in. will investigate the other two.

 

Any trouble codes on the ECU?

 

there was a camshaft position sensor (or crankshaft, i forgot) that came on right before i changed the starter after a harder then usual start. i cleared it and changed the starter after. After that i started the car 4 times and it went from "the way it should be" to "oh my god the car is dead" gradually. replaced all three sensors and still no luck.

 

Where did you buy the new camshaft/crank sensors from?

 

napa auto parts

 

I apparently need to do some sort of FYI write up on this topic.

FYI men ... regardless of the retailer (and dealer parts counter) from which you purchase your electronic components (just like batteries) you're buying parts from no more than 2 to 3 suppliers.

 

spray some brake parts cleaner around the vacuum hoses to check for leaks. RPM will jump.

 

so my mechanic thinks the timing is way off, can the IACV alter the timing so much it wont hold an idle? he also thinks the computer could be bad, but why would changing the starter kill the computer and IACV all of a sudden?

 

The IACV does not affect timing in any way. Your mechanic is a hack. This is not your problem. Did you check for vacuum leaks at all? Something you did is not right.
Swallow your pride and accept it, and then carefully go through everything with a fine toothed comb.

 

If you have to, go back and pull the starter again to make sure everything you touched is re-attached correctly. There are lots of hoses in the vacuum gallery that look alike, but go to different places. Some are engine vacuum, others are just intake air.

Running above 2K suggests the MAF and other systems are fine. My hunch (unconfirmed guess) is if the car runs great above 2k, all the core systems (ECU, timing, ignition, etc) are working.

 

Most likely the original problem was that you had a cps code, which you did not disclose until post # 10. You figured that the last thing you did, starter causes your current problem.


Did your car run well before the cps was replaced?


I would backtrack. Make sure there is no corrosion in the cps connection or wiring. It is possible that you replaced a sensor, while the real problem is corrosion in the wiring that attaches to the sensor. Also retrace your steps involving the starter. Which wiring connectors were disturbed? Which vacuum hoses were disconnected? Are you sure they are all hooked up, and in the right place?

 

turns out that from the car not starting correctly for all these years the car lost its calibration and had to be reprogrammed. he also found a misfire so i have to replace all coils (there all original). car runs good except for the misfire but thats nothing a new coil cant fix.

 

What "calibration" did your car lose, and what is the recalibration process ? This is a new one to me.

 

the way it was explained to me is that since the car has been starting rough for several years (at least 4 that i know of) the programming for the engine knowing where top dead center on the timing became more and more out of whack (im assuming it learns and constantly adjusts but since it was off to begin with it slowly fell more and more out of time) and finally when i changed the starter it threw the programming off so much that it couldnt recover because it was already barely holding on. so what he had to do was hook up his computer (i dont know if it was just a laptop with software or a specialized device) and had to reprogram the computer to tell it where top dead center was. now it runs like a champ minus a misfire at red lights. he ran through all sensors and saw they were right so then he went and attacked the computer. for the record the car has taken longer and longer to start over the years so it does make sense and i did not disclose that to them before handing it over.

 

Our esteemed friend The Wizard, has come across very interesting finding for fueling issues. the fuel injectors have a seal on them near the tip. it is called a pintile cap. They tend to crack and break. Symptoms are hard starting, bad mileage, running bad, and misfires at a given cylinder even after plug and coil replacement.

The injectors an be cleaned and rebuilt for a reasonable price.the front injectors are easy to access. The rear ones require uim removal.

 

Another option is to purchase remanufactured injectors from rockauto.com


I had one failed injector and purchased a remanufactured one. They are relatively cheap.

 

interesting, i have not heard that one before. i did have to change an injector maybe 3 years ago now. before getting the coils ill pull one to check out the seal at the tip. thanks for that.

 

Bro you cant be serious your mechanic got you . Ive been working on these cars for years engine swaps, turbos , ecu swaps-rewires i know just about every piece of the 4th gen. And never have i heard of the above statement.
Your mechanic prolly found a broke wire or vacuum line off or broken which from what you describe about not holding a idle but can rev over 2k fine is almost a dead give away to a vacuum leak.
If i were you i would i wouldnt ever take my vehicle there again. They said the did a ecu software reflash but couldnt fix a misfire. Bruhhh

 

 

Are all the spark plugs wires on the correct cyclinder? But you can possibly be correct timing can be too far, Timing belt can possibly be wrong

 

Our cars do not have spark plug wires. they are coil-on-plug.


Your "mechanic" is a hack. He is clueless and costing you money. He is guessing.
Take your car to a different and more competent mechanic.

 

Nor do our cars have a timing belt.

 

So please tell me what our engines have cause i clearly looked at my machanic change the timing belt on a 2004 nissan maxima se vq35de engine

 

The 4th generation has a timing chain. I just replaced the water pump. The pump is driven by the timing chain. I verify that the 1995-99 e
engines have a timing chain.

 

perhaps you saw the mechanic Chang the serpentine belt.

 

I have heard anytime you replace the starter,IACV ,a few other parts...it needs to do the relearning procedure but this is what I have heard...sure hope its not the IACV cause I just replaced mine along with the ECM...$$$$$$$$$$$ It sounds like the IACV sad to say

 

My car is idling funny ...I have not done the relearning procedure yet ....I do know the IACV will fried the ECM must be changed at the same time

 

I've owned my Maxima for almost ten years and have done a lot of work on it. I have never heard of a 4th generation Maxims that needed reflashing. Later generations do.

Our generation just teaches its self.

The iacv can often be cleaned. a fried IACV causing need for ECU ?

Must be a lot of Maxima mythology out there.

Doubt that......

 

so heres an update. after a week at the mechanics he told me that the only thing he could find was the Mass Airflow Sensor was bad. he didnt tell me how he knew this. little did he know i had a second 95 maxima (my brother and i have the same car) so i swapped parts to see if it made a diffrence. his car ran the same with my part and my car ran the same with his part. total bs. but now on his car i get code P1335 crankshaft position sensor reference cercuit and idles irratically. oddly enough it starts up better once its warm. the crankshaft sensor has been previously replaced. any ideas now?

 

Clean iacv

 

Your "mechanic" continues to be clueless. He is guessing!!!!!


You are paying money for his guessing.


Have you found another mechanic yet, a competent person?

 

YES WHEN THE IACV GOES BAD ..IT BURNS OUT A CHIP ON THE ECM...
UPDATE ...THE FRONT Catalytic Converter IS BAD...THIS IS WHY IS RUNNING FUNNY...CONSUMING A LOT OF GAS.

 

i went to two different ones already and im one step away from going to the dealer at this point. i can clean the IACV myself i just havent had time yet. once i do i will report back if it helped or not. and i havent paid any money except for the three new sensors because they cannot figure out what is wrong with it. a small piece of mind to narrow down what could be wrong.