jgreaves42

I have researched as much as I possibly could before posting but still have this fault. It's not consistent but is is frequent. When driving my 95 AT maxima it has a stalling problem. Typically after a stop it will just turn itself off. Sometimes if I floor the pedal it will save it but not always.
Things I have done:
Cleaned TB IACV EGR tube
Replaced ECTS KS & TPS as well as the fuel pump.
I am still getting the KS code but no others.
When I am driving on the highway I can feel a stutter which lets me know that the car has produced this fault and I need to be wary the next time I slow down and accelerate again. Typically this is a complete stop. This has turned into a family joke at this point as I seem to spend all my time researching or swapping parts. I did read that the fuel pressure regulator may be a suspect part but I can't get the screws out without stripping them.
Any other leads I need to chase down? This is getting old.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

How to deal with the FPR....from one of my other posts


Swapped out the FPR with another used FPR. Oh what fun that was getting those soft brass screws out. I didn't even attempt to use a normal screwdriver; I went right for a ratchet with a phillips bit attachment. While one hand pushed down on the end of the ratchet, my other hand pushed the back of the ratchet into the screw as hard as I could. I got them out w/o too much trouble, but could tell the brass screw heads were slightly stripped due to how darn soft they are. Went to Lowes and bought replacement hardware with allen key heads so I'll never have this problem again. For those that care, the size you need to replace the two brass screws holding the FPR are M5-0.8 16mm. Don't forget to pick up some M5 lock washers too.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I think you're down to checking for a vacuum leak, bad MAF, or bad FPR

jgreaves42

Well after replacing the FPR it still tries to die on me. I can't find and vacuum leaks and am running out of things to check. Anybody else got a suggestion?
I forgot to mention I have cleaned the MAF and since I can floor it to 6k rpm it seems to be working.

M in KC

I'd still bet it's your MAF. They will get jankie as they are on their way out the door. And they will not throw any codes either as they are failing. Your symptoms to me are very similar to the time my MAF took a dump on me. You need a real time OBDII reader to capture what system is upset when you are experiencing your symptoms or someone with a known good MAF.

jgreaves42

Got it changed out today. I'll update after a couple of days.

jgreaves42

Two days of no stalling!!! Thanks to all you guys here who have posted solutions to the various parts that could cause this fault. M in KC I thank you too for getting to me change out that last thing I had to check.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Good to hear. This is why I listed the MAF second, because checking for a vacuum leak is free and relatively easy.

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

another thought on the FPR screws. I have always actually given stuck screws that tend to strip on removal a bit of a turn to the right in the tightening direction which helps to break the "seal " and makes removal, easier.

jgreaves42

I found a post about resoldering the connections on the MAF. Since I have replaced it I have the original to work on so that's what I'm going to try. One step at a time.

jgreaves42

Well that made it worse. I guess the original MAF was totally toast. Sooooooo tired of this.

JoshG

defeating challenges comes with rewards, stick to it..solve the problem.

LJay

I'm having the same issue of dropping below 500 rpms & the car dying on me at stop lights. I changed MAF & I also got my rear manifold leak fixed. I have to change 3 o2 sensors but I'm not sure if that can cause a stalling issue. Might have to clean my TB & IACV. I already cleaned the new MAF

chevyman1980

make shure u aint got any vaccume leaks. thats definatley what it sounds like to me. a vaccume leak will throw everything off and the ecm has to compute for the lean fuel mixture and can cause erratic idle,miss,shut off when stoppin at a light.

jgreaves42

Got it all buttoned up. Clean MAF and no leaks. Happy maxima now! Good luck and happy new year to all.

LJay

Good to here! ^ I do have to replace 3 of my o2 sensors. (I have a 99 Cali Spec) I'll do that & then reset my ECU hoping for the best.

LJay

My car keeps stalling & dying at idle. I replaced the MAF with an OEM MAF & I still get a pending MAF code. I also fixed an exhaust leak manifold. There's also no vacuum leaks either. I'm getting frustrated with this car. Please help. Any ideas would be appreciated

jgreaves42

The advice that I have read is that the MAF connector is just as likely to be bad. Have you cleaned the TB IACV and EGR tube?

LJay

I haven't cleaned the IACV or EGR but I read that those don't cause you to stall or die at a stop. It's also just a pending code but I'm tired of having to throw my car in neutral before a stop so my rpms won't drop & kills the car. I just hope it's a vacuum leak (I meant to say I don't think it's a vacuum leak in the last post)

jgreaves42

The purpose of the IACV is to keep enough air flowing at idle to prevent stalling. It would be wise to clean that and the TB just as a way of eliminating the possibilities.

LJay

Alright. I'll check that out & clean it this weekend. I'll also have a mechanic check for vacuum leaks.