Quantumxl

Note: If you dont want to read the preface scroll down to the bold font for the questions. I am going to do a write up during the process so i hope you guys can help.

I know I know let the flame begin. I am new here so I am a nooblet.

So I have been searching this website for about a week about this topic and I have found multiple different things.

First let me preface with that I have a 1995 nissan maxima se completely stock with 178xxx miles on it. I recently changed the fuel filter, plugs, air filter, egr solenoid valve. I cleaned out the egr tube and maf sensor. I just recently got it so i was doing the basic tune up stuff.

Now lets get to it. I have some chain slap that is in the timing case toward the back of the engine near piston 1 that mildly alleviates when warm but remains there constantly even after warming up. So I am assuming it is a tensioner problem.

So I purchased the tensioner kit (p/n 13091-31U26), tensioner gasket (p/n 13079-31U00), crank shaft seal (p/n 13510-31U10), fel-pro lower oil pan gasket (p/n OS 30696), fel-pro upper oil pan gasket set (p/n OS 30688), permatex ultra black RTV silicone gasket maker, and permatex ultra grey RTV silicone gasket maker.

Pretty extensive shopping list if you ask me. Obviously as you can tell i have done my homework and bought the stuff necessary for the tensioner change. I did use the search button extensively but that can also lead to draw backs. As in: I got so much advice that it has confused me. So to install the TENSIONER GUIDE i need to remove the timing chain case, that is a given. But I have read stories from two different house holds with multiple different subcategories.

First house hold is the one where you remove the lower oil pan remove the two bolts, ac compressor, PS pump, and all the bolts from the timing case do the guide replacement and seal it back up. Sounds easy enough but sounds kinda sloppy. There is a possibility that the newly installed halfmoon gasket on the upper oil pan can move making an improper seal and if the RTV gets messed up during the move that is no good either. This is the camp with the most people.

The other house hold says that we should remove the upper oil pan then remove the timing chain cover. Repeat in reverse for installation. This is more involved because now we have to remove an additional engine mount, remove the catalytic converter, pry an aluminum pan from the engine block which can be marred very easily. This is a problem only because it adds another variable to the equation. What if the 2 o-rings in the upper oil pan dont seat properly? What if i end up with a leak I didnt have to begin with? People of this house (although few) swear by this process because it ensures a proper gasket making with the RTV. No chances of smudging and messing up.

Not only that, we have people who swear by rtv for the lower pan, some swear by a felpro gasket for the lower oil pan, replace o rings, dont replace them, prime the tensioner, dont prime it but run the car at 3000 rpms after setup for 1 minute. Blah blah blah.

So my main question is what route should I go? Remove upper oil pan or not for the timing guide change?

Second question is what are the part numbers for those 2 o rings in the upper oil pan? I have searched and searched with no avail.

Third question is how do you prime your tensioner if you prime at all? Squeeze the tensioner in oil until you see barely any bubbles, compress, and install?

Fourth question is should I replace my water pump? I dont want to dish out $83.00 because it is still good. No play, no antifreeze leak, nothing. Some dont but a majority of people do.

Anyways enough with my yammering. Thank you for listening to me and i hope you guys can help me out. I just want to have all my parts before i start. So that means if I am doing the upper oil pan removal I need to buy a new gasket for the exhaust manifold/catalytic converters and stuff. Please help.

TJ

theWalkinator

Are you sure you need to replace timing chain guide? It could just be the tensioner, you can open the chain tensioner port to exam the tensioner. You can also drop the lower oil pan to exam if there is any pieces of plastic on the bottom of the pan which is a definite sign of broken timing chain guide. You can just use RTV for lower oil pan, timing chain cover. If you do not want to replace water pump, at least you should replace the 2 water pump o-rings which are known to go bad and cause coolant leaks.

JvG

I replaced my water pump recently at 200 k miles.
As part of the process I had to remove the tensioner as well.
It occurred to me that I could stretch the spring in the tensioner by about 1/8 inch as a preventative measure. I had no chain slap either before of afterwards.

What ever you do, replace that water pump as part of your project.

You do not want to do some of the same work twice.

Quantumxl

So for our cars (assuming you have 1996 maxima) there was a TSB about our tensioners. The rattle is a common problem in our cars (1995-1996 Maximas) which they updated in the 1997 and up Maximas. The problem with JUST replacing the tensioner is that all the tensioners are updated to a new version which is ever so slightly tilted downward (which is different from our OEM tensioners). So as a result Nissan is selling the tensioner and guide together as a package as a replacement. Since the angle of the tensioner has changed (assuming we use the new tensioner with an old chain guide) is that the tensioner piston will touch the guide in an ineffective manner. From what Ive researched I have heard 2 different gerry rigged methods both of which are temporary bandaids.

Method 1: Replace the old tensioner with the new one and dont worry about the offset. Some have had good experiences with this. Some found out that their rattle came back after a few thousand miles of driving.

Methid 2: Replace the internals. This was a possibility. You could replace the internals of the old tensioner body with the new internals. O-ring, piston, spring etc. This is definitely doable. However the problem to this madness is that the purpose for the redesign is so that the tensioner doesnt completely lose its prime after a cold night. The tilting downward of the tensioner body was designed so that the tensioner body actually holds some of the oil. So when the tensioner primes after a cold start there isnt that much oil needed to fill the chamber in turn reducing the chances of the dreaded rattle.

The reason why i am doing thos is because I am hoping to keep this car for atleast 5-10 years through medical school. If that means to keep the chain from skipping teeth by changing my tensioner and guide it would be great.

I did sit down and contemplate doing method 2 but o figured why not just do the whole kitten kaboodle.

JvG: I figured that I should do it. Might as well do it as "preventative maintenance" what ever that means lol. So i guess since i have the timing case off might as well drop all the radiator fluid and do a flush of that system too. Thanks dude.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Maybe I don't understand what you asked, but I am aware of only one o-ring in the upper oil pan, it is part # 15066-ZL80B

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts...agram=110_A001

Quantumxl

Oh man thank you so much. The same o ring should fit both. My main question is if i remove the timing chain case should I:

A) remove the lower oil pan then the 2 bolts that hold the front timing case in and then the timing case.

B) remove the lower oil pan, remove the upper oil pan, then remove the timing case.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

As I recall, the order of fastener removal doesn't matter, but you're not going to get the timing cover off without the removal of the two vertical bolts that fasten the very bottom corners of the timing cover.

As I also recall, you're not going get those two vertical bolts removed without removing the lower oil pan.

As I recall further, the removal of the upper oil pan is not necessary for timing cover removal.

... but, I may not be recalling any of this correctly.

Nonetheless, it'll all become obvious once you start tearing things apart.

I will assure you though that the timing cover will not come out without the lower corner fasteners having been removed.

I haven't read through your entire thread but are you using the FSM or some other appropriate repair manual?

CS_AR

+1 - The procedure is covered in the FSM.

Here's a thread with timing chain removal tips below.

NOTE: I unsuccessfully tried to remove and replace the timing cover without removing the upper oil pan (UOP). I could not keep the half-moon gasket in place while aligning the cover for bolt down. That doesn't mean that it hasn't been done. I remember a member posting an update to a thread where he was able to apply enough force on the top of the TC to squeeze the half moon into place without having to remove and reinstall the UOP.

It may be possible if you have a helper who can guide the cover and half moon from the bottom while someone applies enough force from the top. Since I was working alone, I had to follow the steps in the FSM.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...moval-tip.html

dsonnylal

iTrader: (3)

Just an FYI, the felpro upper oil pan gasket set comes with the two small O rings along with the half moon gasket seals.

Quantumxl

Hmm that is weird. My felpro kit for the oil pan only comes with the 2 half moons. That sucks. Oh wells.

I figured it would be easier to have two sets of hands. I might get my dad/brother to help me out. I am guessing the hard part is lining it up properly and not messing up the gasket.

Anyways. Thanks for the input guys. I will be back and do a write up. I have yet to see a video on changing the tensioner + chain guide so i may give it a shot on the tutorial.

JvG

One method ive used to align parts for assembly or to hold a gasket is to use guide pins.

I buy 2 or 3 bolts which are similar to the bolts the car comes with.

I remove the heads from the bolts. Then I grind the ends so they are slightly rounded. Then I cut the end of the bolt with a hacksaw. The objective is to create a slot which a flat blade
screwdriver fits.

Screw in the guide pins. Hang the gasket from the guide pins.
Use guide pins to align timing case cover. Insert the other bolts.
Next remove guide pins with the.screw driver.