Anyone ever had this issue? If so how much did it caught to fix the problem because as far as I know you have to remove the top half of the motor to get to it.

 

Look at the Stickies, or use the search function. This has been discussed many times.

The sensor can be replaced without taking the upper intake manifold off.

Part of the repair involves reaching into a narrow place with sharp edges. Someone with long skinny fingers would have a less difficult time with this. A woman or a child for example.

 

I did mine not too long ago...got my KS off ebay for 5 bucks...i used a 12 point socket a swivel and about 18 inches of extensions...i grabbed the wiring and pull it out...plugged the new one up and wiggled my hand into the valley to start the bolt...there are definitely some sharp edges in there...i dont have small hands...its a real PIA but it can be done...took me 20 min

 

I guess I'll just have to suck it up, by the tools and do it myself. Thanks guys

 

not hard, search youtube for a tutorial.

 

Really not hard at all. Bothersome though, I did notice a small increase in performance/gas mileage.

 

The knock sensor does not cause the check engine light to turn on. If the check engine light is on, there is another code present.

The knock sensor code likes to show up with just about every other code. You will find it referred to as a ghost code because it is not valid most of the time. Fix the other problem and the knock sensor code will go away.

Unless the plastic shell of the knock sensor is cracked, you have a 95+ percent chance that the knock sensor is good.

 

I normally take my car to autozone for a diagnostic. As usual with their device they can't pin point the problem

 

You can check the CEL yourself through the ecu near your gas pedal. There is a write up in the stickies and a video by pmohr on Youtube.

If you have a good camera or phone zoom in and see if you can find a Crack in the sensor.

 

I'll check that out thanks

 

I was reading this thread and was thinking about my own issue with a knocksensor. My CEL is on for one and p1446 and it says no DTC. Is it true that the knocksensor is just a ghost code and will disappear when I fix whatever issue I have throwing the CEL?

 

Yes

 

 

that cause their scanners suck. my 25.00 amazon scanner is more accurate then theirs.

 

What scanner is that, I need it

 

it's even cheaper now, here you go

 

You're a big help man. I'm ordering mike today!

 

who's mike???

 

Dammit autocorrect

 

I'm having a knock sensor issue myself. My 98' Max is showing 2 codes; One for knock sensor and the other for Intake Air Temp Sensor. picked up both parts and replacing them in the morning. I hope that turns the CEL.

 

I need this in my life! Nobody would clear my codes after changing the KS this morning.

 

You can check and clear the codes yourself without a scan tool through the ecu. My 9yo sister even did it for me.

 

I've had one like this for years. It works on all OBDII cars so it has paid for itself many times.

Actually I paid $49 for mine at Harbor Freight -- so this is a deal.

Note that I've seen members with broken ECU screw mounts. So I would rather read codes and perform a reset electronically.

The Knock Sensor (KS) code usually accompanies other codes. I would find and fix the non-KS code then reset and see if the KS code clears up.

If you do decide to replace the KS, I use a 10" 1/4 drive ratchet extension with a 1/4 inch drive universal joint to reach under the intake to remove the KS. My 3/8 drive will not make a sharp enough turn to remove the KS.

Here's a link to KS removal instructions. Once you get into removing the old KS, you will quickly figure out the tools that are required.

http://web.archive.org/web/200806170...ca/mvp.php/507

1/4 inch drive u-joint



1/4 inch drive extension

 

I tried it but the SES light is still on. Im going back to Autozone and checking the cides again. If its throwing the same 2 codes i will have to test the wires to make sure the sensirs are getting power. I dislike dealing with electrical issues... That and my rear passenger window motor just went out.. I feel like this car is starting to fall apart.

 

So I got my Autel in yesterday and connected it. Come to find out there was a knock sensor code and a O2 sensor code. I had actually had both O2's done about 8 months ago and the code was still showing up until yesterday. I erased that code but the knock sensor code is still showing so I just order a knock sensor off Amazon for $10 along with a set of swivel joints for $9 so that I can do it myself.

 

I'm getting code "P0325" and code "P0325 P". What's the difference between the 2?

 

I used this for the knock sensor.



This baby made an easy job of the knock sensor. I bought it years ago to do the 2 plugs sgainst the firewall on a tahoe had. <br/>

 

Alright! The Max just passed inspection!

 

That's all I need to do for mine to pass inspection lol

 

Finally replaced my knock sensor. I was able to take it out of the little valley but wasn't able to put it back so I had to relocate it to the top of the manifold. Took about 15 mins. Funny thing is, I've been having this knock sensor problem for 2-3 years and never knew it wouldn't only take 15 mins to fix smh lol. I left a picture of where I relocated the knock sensor and also where I got the longer 10mm bolt from.

 

Are you sure that it will still work accurately in that location ? If so, why would anyone ever screw around trying to remove/replace it from its original location. It would be much easier to just unclip the lead, and then then install a new one in your location.

Just wondering...

 

I'm pretty confident it will work just as good in this location. Only thing different is that instead of it being mounted under the manifold it on top so I would think it would be able to detect any knocking. But I've been driving it for about 50 miles since I replaced it, before i turn the car back on I do a engine diagnostic and so far nothing as come up, I'll be testing it twice a day to make sure it doesn't malfunction

 

Here's my video

 

Well... The jack pot code just came on... Looks like ill be having fun tracking down the problem. At least it happened the day after inspection!

 

Knock sensor ?

 

Not this time, I got code 0111. It has never came up before. Im hoping its only a loose connection. Maybe a loose vacuum line from when i did the KS and IATS the other day.

 

honestly i don't think it will work as well sitting up there. nissan designers made it that way for a reason, it's at the heart of the motor where it can detect any major knocking or pinging. i'm wondering how long before it'll malfuntion or if it's functioning properly now.

 

I've seen people do that on the VH45DE (Q45) V8 Nissan engine because removing the upper intake manifold to get down into "death valley" is at least a two day job. If a VH45DE (OBDII) model detects a bad knock sensor, it goes into "limp mode" and severely limits speed and performance until the issue has been resolved.

A few years back I found a Q45 in the junk yard where this had happened and snapped a picture. In this case, somebody needed to pass the wiring test.



Here's a picture of "death valley" where two knock live at the bottom on a VH45DE.

 

It wouldn't be all that hard to test. You could put in some low octane fuel, and then accelerate fast with the engine to see if you can hear any knocking or pinging. If you do, then I would move it back to its original location.

 

Went to get an inspection on the max today and failed. The guy said its because the computer is saying that the catalysts, O2, and 2 other things I can't think of come up as (Not Ready). They told me that came from me disconnecting the battery when I replaced the knock sensor. Now my question is, how long do I have to drive it before all of those things will register as ready because after I replaced the KS I drove it to and from work yesterday which is a good 30-35 miles and it still wasn't ready.