Engine light on (Knock sensor) 97 Max
#2
Look at the Stickies, or use the search function. This has been discussed many times.
The sensor can be replaced without taking the upper intake manifold off.
Part of the repair involves reaching into a narrow place with sharp edges. Someone with long skinny fingers would have a less difficult time with this. A woman or a child for example.
The sensor can be replaced without taking the upper intake manifold off.
Part of the repair involves reaching into a narrow place with sharp edges. Someone with long skinny fingers would have a less difficult time with this. A woman or a child for example.
#3
Look at the Stickies, or use the search function. This has been discussed many times.
The sensor can be replaced without taking the upper intake manifold off.
Part of the repair involves reaching into a narrow place with sharp edges. Someone with long skinny fingers would have a less difficult time with this. A woman or a child for example.
The sensor can be replaced without taking the upper intake manifold off.
Part of the repair involves reaching into a narrow place with sharp edges. Someone with long skinny fingers would have a less difficult time with this. A woman or a child for example.
#7
The knock sensor does not cause the check engine light to turn on. If the check engine light is on, there is another code present.
The knock sensor code likes to show up with just about every other code. You will find it referred to as a ghost code because it is not valid most of the time. Fix the other problem and the knock sensor code will go away.
Unless the plastic shell of the knock sensor is cracked, you have a 95+ percent chance that the knock sensor is good.
The knock sensor code likes to show up with just about every other code. You will find it referred to as a ghost code because it is not valid most of the time. Fix the other problem and the knock sensor code will go away.
Unless the plastic shell of the knock sensor is cracked, you have a 95+ percent chance that the knock sensor is good.
#8
Originally Posted by DennisMik
The knock sensor does not cause the check engine light to turn on. If the check engine light is on, there is another code present.
The knock sensor code likes to show up with just about every other code. You will find it referred to as a ghost code because it is not valid most of the time. Fix the other problem and the knock sensor code will go away.
Unless the plastic shell of the knock sensor is cracked, you have a 95+ percent chance that the knock sensor is good.
The knock sensor code likes to show up with just about every other code. You will find it referred to as a ghost code because it is not valid most of the time. Fix the other problem and the knock sensor code will go away.
Unless the plastic shell of the knock sensor is cracked, you have a 95+ percent chance that the knock sensor is good.
#9
If you have a good camera or phone zoom in and see if you can find a Crack in the sensor.
Last edited by bumpypickle; 02-23-2016 at 08:03 AM.
#11
98 SE Knocksensor
I was reading this thread and was thinking about my own issue with a knocksensor. My CEL is on for one and p1446 and it says no DTC. Is it true that the knocksensor is just a ghost code and will disappear when I fix whatever issue I have throwing the CEL?
#16
it's even cheaper now, here you go
#17
Originally Posted by max ride 41
it's even cheaper now, here you go
#21
it's even cheaper now, here you go Amazon.com: Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles: Automotive
#22
#23
it's even cheaper now, here you go Amazon.com: Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles: Automotive
Actually I paid $49 for mine at Harbor Freight -- so this is a deal.
Note that I've seen members with broken ECU screw mounts. So I would rather read codes and perform a reset electronically.
The Knock Sensor (KS) code usually accompanies other codes. I would find and fix the non-KS code then reset and see if the KS code clears up.
If you do decide to replace the KS, I use a 10" 1/4 drive ratchet extension with a 1/4 inch drive universal joint to reach under the intake to remove the KS. My 3/8 drive will not make a sharp enough turn to remove the KS.
Here's a link to KS removal instructions. Once you get into removing the old KS, you will quickly figure out the tools that are required.
http://web.archive.org/web/200806170...ca/mvp.php/507
1/4 inch drive u-joint
1/4 inch drive extension
Last edited by CS_AR; 02-27-2016 at 04:11 AM.
#24
I tried it but the SES light is still on. Im going back to Autozone and checking the cides again. If its throwing the same 2 codes i will have to test the wires to make sure the sensirs are getting power. I dislike dealing with electrical issues... That and my rear passenger window motor just went out.. I feel like this car is starting to fall apart.
#25
Originally Posted by CS_AR
I've had one like this for years. It works on all OBDII cars so it has paid for itself many times.
Actually I paid $49 for mine at Harbor Freight -- so this is a deal.
Note that I've seen members with broken ECU screw mounts. So I would rather read codes and perform a reset electronically.
The Knock Sensor (KS) code usually accompanies other codes. I would find and fix the non-KS code then reset and see if the KS code clears up.
If you do decide to replace the KS, I use a 10" 1/4 drive ratchet extension with a 1/4 inch drive universal joint to reach under the intake to remove the KS. My 3/8 drive will not make a sharp enough turn to remove the KS.
Here's a link to KS removal instructions. Once you get into removing the old KS, you will quickly figure out the tools that are required.
http://web.archive.org/web/200806170...ca/mvp.php/507
1/4 inch drive u-joint
1/4 inch drive extension
Actually I paid $49 for mine at Harbor Freight -- so this is a deal.
Note that I've seen members with broken ECU screw mounts. So I would rather read codes and perform a reset electronically.
The Knock Sensor (KS) code usually accompanies other codes. I would find and fix the non-KS code then reset and see if the KS code clears up.
If you do decide to replace the KS, I use a 10" 1/4 drive ratchet extension with a 1/4 inch drive universal joint to reach under the intake to remove the KS. My 3/8 drive will not make a sharp enough turn to remove the KS.
Here's a link to KS removal instructions. Once you get into removing the old KS, you will quickly figure out the tools that are required.
http://web.archive.org/web/200806170...ca/mvp.php/507
1/4 inch drive u-joint
1/4 inch drive extension
#30
Finally replaced my knock sensor. I was able to take it out of the little valley but wasn't able to put it back so I had to relocate it to the top of the manifold. Took about 15 mins. Funny thing is, I've been having this knock sensor problem for 2-3 years and never knew it wouldn't only take 15 mins to fix smh lol. I left a picture of where I relocated the knock sensor and also where I got the longer 10mm bolt from.
#31
KS New location
Are you sure that it will still work accurately in that location ? If so, why would anyone ever screw around trying to remove/replace it from its original location. It would be much easier to just unclip the lead, and then then install a new one in your location.
Just wondering...
Just wondering...
#32
Originally Posted by Rit
Are you sure that it will still work accurately in that location ? If so, why would anyone ever screw around trying to remove/replace it from its original location. It would be much easier to just unclip the lead, and then then install a new one in your location.
Just wondering...
Just wondering...
#37
honestly i don't think it will work as well sitting up there. nissan designers made it that way for a reason, it's at the heart of the motor where it can detect any major knocking or pinging. i'm wondering how long before it'll malfuntion or if it's functioning properly now.
#38
Finally replaced my knock sensor. I was able to take it out of the little valley but wasn't able to put it back so I had to relocate it to the top of the manifold. Took about 15 mins. Funny thing is, I've been having this knock sensor problem for 2-3 years and never knew it wouldn't only take 15 mins to fix smh lol. I left a picture of where I relocated the knock sensor and also where I got the longer 10mm bolt from.
A few years back I found a Q45 in the junk yard where this had happened and snapped a picture. In this case, somebody needed to pass the wiring test.
Here's a picture of "death valley" where two knock live at the bottom on a VH45DE.
Last edited by CS_AR; 03-04-2016 at 05:01 AM.
#39
honestly i don't think it will work as well sitting up there. nissan designers made it that way for a reason, it's at the heart of the motor where it can detect any major knocking or pinging. i'm wondering how long before it'll malfuntion or if it's functioning properly now.
#40
Went to get an inspection on the max today and failed. The guy said its because the computer is saying that the catalysts, O2, and 2 other things I can't think of come up as (Not Ready). They told me that came from me disconnecting the battery when I replaced the knock sensor. Now my question is, how long do I have to drive it before all of those things will register as ready because after I replaced the KS I drove it to and from work yesterday which is a good 30-35 miles and it still wasn't ready.