reallywildstuff

"After searching the forum" - I can't dismiss the oil pressure switch as being a potential source of some of my oil leak.

What is the highest-quality oil pressure switch / which replacement oil pressure switch has given you 100k no-leak miles? I ask in the spirit of the quote below "Daniel B Martin suggest NOT to use the OEM switch.":

OEM 252408996E (apparently original units sucked & NO PICTURES of OEM part on Infiniti websites) $22.20 @ dealer
Beck Arnley 2011350 $5.56 @ Rock Auto
Standard Motor PS168T $6.29 @ RA
Airtex/Wells 1S6585 $11.13 @ RA - cross reference for PS159 (below)
Standard Motor PS168 $11.45 @ RA
Wells PS159 - (mentioned in the 14-year old post below) - hard to find locally, $20+ online
Import Direct 17-0573 $11.99 @ O'Reilly
Duralast (mfg by Wells) PS159 $11.99 @ Autozone (white plastic instead of black on online-only Wells-branded PS159)

my searches led me here:

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-updated.html

Thanks

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Just go to AutoZone and get what ever they have.

reallywildstuff

This is a perfect case in point why otherwise good intention-ed owners think "not Nissan/Infiniti OEM" are OK to use for other parts like MAF etc. How are I/they/we to know which aftermarket parts are in fact superior and/or "just as good" when (I think its fair to say) "using all-OEM means never having to say you're Sorry" - especially when you come crawling back to the forum and the answer is "your repair didn't last because of the sh*te parts you used".

I bought the AutoZone piece yesterday only because it was the same part number as what I would have otherwise selected elsewhere, and not OEM because "no picture available" and the history of failure. Also, lack of info found online.

I don't personally care for AutoZone in general (although Frankie on the Pro Desk at the Galleria Westheimer location, where I hadn't been recently, did 100% OK by me) - AZ's front of the store stuff is really off-putting.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

And I just put an OEM one in thinking I was doing it right.

M in KC

My oil pressure sending unit leaked within the first 10,000 miles from new. Replaced with OEM but that was way back then.

Maxima 97 SE

I just bought a brand new oem nissan oil pressure switch part# 25240-8996E for only 19.78 from the nissan dealership. A quick hint is when buying parts from the dealers you want to go on their parts website and look up the part yourself and it will give you the price that dealer charges and it will give you sales price which the dealer never gives you unless you buy it from their website and then pick it up the dealership. Most dealerships have a cheaper price on their parts store and some don't. The original price was 21.98 and I got 19.78 plus tax.

CS_AR

You can find the Just-In_Time (JIT) supplier partner companies that supply parts to Nissan if you do a little research. The term for those partners are JIT-SUP.

I only use BWD/SMP Intermotor sensors on my Nissan and Honda vehicles. I changed up the sensor wiring harness routing a couple of years ago.



If you search around "the world" you will find a Federal Mogul facility somewhere near a Nissan manufacturing plant. FM is the parent company for BDW and SMP. The BWD/SMP Intermotor brand is the FM top shelf product.

FM supplies parts to BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Honda, Nissan, Volkswagen, Ford, Renault and Peugeot.

The sole original equipment supplier for brands in Turkey such as Ford-Otosan and OYAK Renault, Federal-Mogul Izmit plant also export to Europe, U.S.A., and Japan to customers such as Bentley, Volvo, Scania, Ford, Renault, Caterpillar, Isuzu, FIAT, Honda, Peugeot and Perkins. Also, in 2005, new production lines were launched to produce original equipment for BMW and Mercedes-Benz.

Note: Nissan is owned by the Renault Group.

http://www.federalmogul.com.tr/en/facilities/c53.aspx

:

Will92

Hi:

I replaced my leaking pressure sensor switch many years ago on my 95 SE with another OEM unit. I used a bit of Locktite thread sealant and have had no problems since.

reallywildstuff

CS_AR - what' it like to have a motor that clean underneath? God bless you Sir.

I replaced the OP sensor with the Autozone/Duralast/Wells PS159 unit. I think what I took out may have been the original unit - it had a very large (1 1/8"?) "brass"-looking lock nut instead of the 7/8"? "steel"-locking nut of the replacement. I saved it.

The OP sensor is not leaking now.

I couldn't tell whether the original unit was leaking or not because...there was/is still a SH*T TON of oil leaking from above the OP sensor/above the power steering bracket.

I am resigned to the fact that this leak is coming from either the upper oil pan and/or timing cover. The valve covers leak a little - but there doesn't seem to be nearly enough leaking from above #1 to account for the huge dripping oil leak I'm seeing from underneath. Two serious drips from that location - one drop every 10 seconds at temperature.

Anyways: solving the leak with a new OP sensor - DENIED!

Icemule

I have that same leak and was thinking upper oil pan. Hope I'm wrong. My leak does the exact as yours but seems to stop after the car has been driven around for 10 minutes. I put the same OP switch in a few days ago, works great. Paid around 12 bucks.

reallywildstuff

The car is back on the road, but still leaks lots of oil. It's coming from above the OP sensor. I was recently hot to trot to remove the engine so as to completely re-seal it (it has minor leaks from RMS and balancer seal) - however now I am wondering if replacing just the valve cover gaskets (specifically the rear, although I'd do both) could potentially cure the most-offending leaks.

I don't think the rear cover has ever been replaced. The front has been done more than once, but never by a Nissan mechanic.

Is it possible for all that oil to be coming from that area of the valve cover that's near the timing cover, and that requires RTV to seal properly?

What type/color RTV should be used - the factory "1217H Liquid Gasket p/n 999MP-1217HP" ? Red RTV instead?

I need new valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets to do this, correct? Are factory parts the way to go, or is something like FelPro superior? Any other parts required to service both valve covers? I'd get the injectors rebuilt while I was in there.

Is it reasonable to dismiss "timing cover" and "upper oil pan" as leak sources until both valve covers have been properly serviced?

Thanks

PH98I30

If your leak is around the oil filter area, it's most likely the upper oil pan. Your mileage is getting in that ballpark.

reallywildstuff

the leak comes from directly above the oil pressure sender - not exactly above the filter, but close.

it is a steady stream of oil I'm talking about now...you can see the trail up and down the street from our driveway

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There is an oil gallery (line) that runs up and down between the engine block and the upper oil pan. The oil pressure sender is tapped into this gallery. There is a rubber o-ring that seals this gallery between the bloch and upper oil pan. It had been known to harden and leak.

See part code # 11012G approx. in the center of this part diagram:

http://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/par...agram=110_C001

reallywildstuff

wow the truth hurts

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

If it's that o-ring then time for new half moon seals too while you're dropping the upper
Fun times

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

You mean moar RTV XD

JvG

No need to resurrect a three year old thread.

Common mistake newbies make. Dont.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Guys, I never resurrect threads, but I I am hoping that this may actually save someone a headache in the future.

Please DO NOT buy the sending unit from Advance Auto parts. Unfortunately I don't remember the brand, but it was the only one that they carried. I replaced mine no more than 6 months ago when I did the front and rear VC gaskets and IM gasket.

This morning, I was about to hit the highway, stopped at the store, and saw a fairly significant leak (2-3 drops per second) particularly with the engine running.

Sure enough, it's coming out from the switch. Looks to be leaking after the bolt so, in other words, where the electronic component is threaded into the metal.

I'm replacing it with the OEM switch, should arrive in a few days.

Just wanted to throw this out there in case anyone else is trying to save some time by buying it locally. I was headed out for a long drive, and I would have probably gotten stuck on the side of the highway!