96MaxSE_5M

Hey, what's up, guys? Still fairly new to the site. Having a problem lining the egr tube back onto the uim. I have officially gave up on it until I can come up with a plan. If anyone has any suggestions on how to do this, please let me know asap since this is my only car.

Icemule

It's pretty straight forward. Try putting it on and shaking it around a little to get it settled. Short of a picture, it's guess work, with the info you provided.

Is it not going down all the way, is it offset to the left or right? In fact, did you take off just the tube or the uim or both?

96MaxSE_5M

It's not going down all the way. I was in the process of replacing both valve cover and intake gaskets. I still have about a quarter inch until it can be reached. I tried just about everything and nothing's working for me. All I have left that's relatively hard to do is that then after that I'll be home free getting it back together and running.

bvb_09

Let me guess.... before u removed the last back hose that connects the UIM (the hardest one), you pushed the UIM up, and bent upwards a metal hose - just bend it back down. See the boredmder youtube video again, and you will notice what is wrong. Don't fight withi it ;-)

96MaxSE_5M

Thanks, bvb. I'll watch the video. Wish I would've known about that before lol. Probably one of these days, a VQ35 will be in this car's future since the original one has almost 200k miles on the clock. I've heard some stories about the VQ30's egr design flaw lol

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

it's not a vq 3. 0h

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

$5 says the UIM is getting caught on those bastard rear support brackets. Jiggle the UIM and feel with your hand if your clearing said brackets.

96MaxSE_5M

I'll give it a try in the morning. Just got into work so it'll have to wait until then lol. Thanks for the advice! Learning something new everyday about this car.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

If I'm not mistaken, the bolt holes in both the top and bottom mounting flanges of the tube are elongated giving it the ability to shift around.

You need to install the tube "loosely" at both ends and then line things up, then tighten.

I think if you do a search you'll find some more clarification on this.

M in KC

Ran into a similar situation with mine. 1 bazillion percent my fault. After removing the UIM I temporarily reinstalled the rear support screws to not lose/confuse them. Went to put UIM back on bam, no go Joe. Then I realized the error in my ways. It feel into place after that.

96MaxSE_5M

Yeah, I had a total "blonde" moment when trying to put the manifold back on lol. Now, on another note, I ran into a couple of issues when I fired it back up. When it idles it sounds like it has a slight lope to it. RPMs vary somewhere in between from about 450 to around 750 when it's warmed up. Now could it be that with the battery being unplugged for a couple days that the computer is in some sort of learning state or is it some other issue like failing coils and/or spark plugs, MAF, dirty emissions components, etc. that's causing it to do that? Mind you this car has almost 200k on the clock and it was running almost perfect before I started working on it. When I had my dad help me work on it, he gave the coolant and oil a once over and told me that it did need oil and coolant. I told him it really didn't need coolant in it since it barely leaked an ounce when I unhooked the coolant lines that go into the EGR port on the manifold. Now it has developed a leak where that little rectangular piece is on top of the radiator. What can be done to fix it so it can save me the trip to the junkyard for a radiator?

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

recheck all sensors and hoses you unplugged. The work you just did clearly affected your idle so at this time I wouldn't worry about cleaning anything

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

the loping is probably a vacuum leak. check all vacuum connections first (the little one behind the TB and on the side of the UIM is easy to forget). Then start spraying carb cleaner around the manifold and see if the rpms shoot up. If so, you found your leak.

96MaxSE_5M

Alrighty, I'll give it a try. There are a couple dried up hoses that looked like they cracked when I took them off like the hose that connects between the valve covers. I'll take a look at every single vacuum hose and check to see if that's what is causing it and get some new ones.

JvG

Do yourself and your engine a huge favour do NOT buy a junkyard radiator. they don't last long. Good new radiator s are about 100 dollars. other new ones of questionable quality can be had for 50 bucks.

How much is your time worth to you?

You don't want to overheat this summer. Which will happen soon if you don't fix this, soon.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

+1 I installed a $100 Rad off eBay with no issues. Before you do that though, check the upper and lower hoses and see if that's where it's leaking. really" you should just be concerned with the idle right now

Icemule

Did you replace the gasket the manifold sits on? I watched pmohrs video on that and he didn't mention that gasket and I didn't replace it, because it was so thick and no mention was made to replace it. I had lower rpm from this and confirmed that by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold like the wizard said. If that's the case, you have to replace that gasket. It's much easier to do the second time. First time took me hrs. Second time I had it off in 20 minutes

One more thing, did you put on a new iacv gasket? Is the iacv gasket askew? That happened to me first time.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

When I pull the manifold on a Max that hasn't been worked on in years, I always replace the UIM gasket and EGR gasket at a minimum. If I detach the TB and IACV for cleaning, I replace those gaskets too.