BobMax

I have an oil leak down onto the PS pump belt. I'm guessing it's the rear valve cover, but it's almost impossible to see under and in there...

SO... is this a good guess? Are there other popular leaks that would end up in the same area? Any sensors down there that might leak?

If I want to replace the rear VC gasket, it looks like I have to pull the intake manifold. What parts will I need beyond the intake and VC gasket and a new PS belt? ... and any tips on doing that job?

Thanks,

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

As far as gaskets youll need..
1.egr gasket
2.upper intake plenum gasket
3.throttle body gasket
4.iacv gasket
5.good to but optional,new washers that insert into the valve cover

All you need to take off plenum is
1.3/8 flex head wrench
2.12mm socket with extension
3.10mm socket with extension.
4. Plastic pry tool for the wire harness
5. Needle nose plyers for the hose clamps.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Member since 2001?!

Sound like you're on the right track with the correct list of replacement parts other than some RTV for the corners of the VC by the timing cover
Same as the front

I would replace the other belt as well while you're there

Must be a crazy bad leak to make it over to the belt

JvG

While I have not experienced a rear valve cover leak yet, I can find another place to look. The hoses to the power steering pump resiovoir.

Does the leak smell like oil or atf? Have you needed to add fluid to the power steering?

BobMax

Thanks boys for the info. Doing both belts makes sense.

To answer your question, JvG, I was convinced it would be PS fluid too, but it doesn't use any at all. Not a drop from what I see. OTOH, it does use some oil.

My plan is to wash it down really well and see if I can spot the leak once it's clean... but it's damn hard to see down (or up) there without a lift.

Maybe it's a front seal leak around the pulley? If the front seal was leaking would the oil be able to get out to the belts? Anything else common for a leak?

JvG

If oil dripped on the pulley, I would expect for oil to be sprayed in all directions. You would see about the same amount of oil every where.

If you are not adding ps fluid, my guess is incorrect.

Cleaning thoroughly , then watching is a very good idea.

Going to all the trouble to repair one thing, only then finding it's really another thing, sucks. Been there, done that.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

You need to get the car off the ground ... or at least the front end ... get yourself underneath and confirm the source of the leak.

uttadms31

When my rear valve cover gasket was leaking, some oil was getting on the power steering pump, but not at all on the belt. I'm also wondering if it's either power steering fluid or motor oil from a leaking front crank seal. Get some of the fluid off the belt onto your fingers and smell it...motor oil smells like motor oil but power steering fluid/atf has a noticeable sweet smell to it. As for the reservoir not dropping, my rack's been leaking for a long time but it can take a long time (months) for the reservoir to go down, so it may be a slow leak.

M in KC

Be sure to get the cylinder head corners that require the RTV clean and dry otherwise you will be back at it again. It's a fairly straight forward repair you just have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the rear VC.

BobMax

So I got in there and cleaned the rear and side engine, then went back in another day with the car on stands to clean the rear again by spraying gunk from underneath, then hosed it off. Messy day, threw that shirt away.

I can see oil drops on the exhaust manifold bolt and around that area at the front (belt end) of the engine when inspecting with a mirror. I'm fairly certain that there's a VC leak. I also see a little film on the rear of the PS pump that seems to be oil dripping from above.

However, the PS belt is dry. Dry as a bone. Rusty dry on the inside. So is the main belt. I would think my problem was just an old belt, if I hadn't replaced it last year to solve this very problem- a PS loud squeal at start up and sometimes lasting a few minutes. I'm going to replace the belt again to see if it is just a belt that didn't do the trick (gatorback, good belt). Maybe I can steel wool the pulley clean. I'm almost certain it's the PS (main belt also replaced) as moving the steering wheel changes the squeal.

I don't suppose it's possible to tighten the rear Valve Cover without removing the intake manifold, correct? No tools that will sneak in there?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Not possible.

And your gasket is shot, tightening the bolts won't solve the issue. Plus those are soft bolts with a very low torque spec, you do not want to over-tighten those.....

BobMax

OK, thanks... and I am familiar with how soft. Snapped one once. Long day making a guide to drill it out. I'll plan for the full project I guess.

BobMax

How long should this job take?

I'm good with a wrench, but mostly unfamiliar with this motor.

BobMax

In addition to my question above about job length... do I need both these gaskets for the EGR ?:

https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-.../dp/B007C7VHUQ
and
https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-.../dp/B007C7VHWO

JvG

Yes. One between the egr and engine, the other one is for the tube.

BobMax

Which one is which? Do I need the triangle shaped one, or the rounded one?

Thanks,

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Since it's your first time, I'd say 3 hours.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Links are too vague. I recommend you use Courtesyparts.com and cross reference part numbers.

He really needs to only worry about the gasket between the UIM and the EGR tube, not the gasket at the lower end of the EGR tube.

BobMax

Still learning here before I dive in... there's a front and a rear manifold, right? Will I need to remove them both to get the rear valve cover done?

Do I need to drain the coolant? Does it run through the manifold?

BobMax

Job done, what a RPITA. Spent a lot of time labeling things on the way off since I don't know this engine well and I didn't want to end up with a "now what hose goes here?" or a "was that this bolt or that bolt?" issue.

For future reference, the EGR gasket on the manifold side is the pointy ended one, not the rounded ended one: Use this or equiv: https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-.../dp/B007C7VHWO

Major time wasters was the coolant hose behind the UIM... very difficult to get in there and move the clamp so you can remove the hose. The front coolant hose on the TB is a pain if you're lucky enough to have the clamp facing the "wrong" way like me. The EGR and manifold supports are a PITA, but doable.

Took advantage to clean the EGR, which was fully blocked at the port on both side. Also cleaned the TB and a quick IACV cleaning.

I thought I had to pull both upper and lower manifolds to get to the rear VC, but only the upper had to come off. My mistake, but at least I was prepared.

Most things I do on a Nissan impress me with their simplicity and good design and I sing the engineer's praises. This wasn't one of them.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Actually, removing the UIM is quit easy after you do it a few times.

That little U shaped coolant hose is a *****. I stockpile them so I can just cut them off and install a new one if and when I work on a friends Max.

Glad you got it done. Hopefully you torqued everything to spec, and in the correct sequence; and added the blob of RTV in the corners per the FSM.

BobMax

If only I had known, I would have done just what you suggest. That hose is a ___ buster.

Got the RTV in there thanks for Fakie's heads up. Otherwise I might have skipped it and wondered why there was that little bit on the gasket surface in the corner.

Thanks, Fakie!

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

You're welcome

BobMax

Hey Wiz: Ever install a new one of those at both ends with the UIM already back on? Can you get to the upper side? Or is that improbable ... and it needs to be done before the manifold is back in place?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

It can be done afterwards, but it's EXTREEEEEEMLY difficult, and a job for small hands and arms.

It should be at the same time the manifold is installed. It's basically step one when re-installing the manifold. W/o the manifold bolted down, you have the flexibility to move the manifold all around, which gives you the flexibility to lift it, tilt it etc so you can install that hose w/o too much difficulty.

BobMax

Yeah, small hands, that's not me. I'd like to replace it post UIM, but maybe I will have to let it ride until I have time to redo the job.