CS_AR

Since I purchased Max IV, a couple of evap system-related codes (canister and purge control valve) have popped up. I first cleared the codes, it lasted for a couple of weeks and returned. I cleared the codes again. Because I hadn't changed anything, I knew the codes would eventually return.

Since the cost to replace the canister from Rock Auto cost approximately $31 and change, I decided to order a new replacement. The new canister arrived late last week. The new purge control valve will arrive on Tuesday.

So today I decided to replace the canister and clean related parts just so see if it would make a difference.

Here are some pictures of my findings and how I changed the evap canister.

Here's a picture of a new SMP Intermotor Evap Canister from Rock Auto.

I could have picked up a new OEM for about the same price. I really like SMP Intermotor products, so to me, it's a matter of ordering convenience and delivery speed that will sway me to go OEM or SMP. I happened to be ordering other parts from Rock that day so I went with the Intermotor product.

Side View



Front View



Here's the old evap canister looking inside the hole where the purge control valve is mounted.

The old canister was full of dried MUD. Look at the mess inside the purge control valve hole. I found dirt and mud inside the purge control valve also.






Here's a picture of the area around the canister. I was preparing for the worst. The electrical plugs and wiring covers were full of mud. I could not remove the plugs at first. I sprayed everything with PB Blaster and let it soak. After the PB Blaster treatment, I was able to carefully remove the electrical plugs without breaking anything.



My trim separator tool worked great for freeing up old hoses without damaging anything.



The old wiring flex conduit covering was full of dried mud. I carefully trimmed off the old protective covering and cleaned the wiring. Afterward, I re-wrapped the wiring using silicone tape. Silicone tape does not use glue like regular electrical tape. It bonds to itself and forms a moisture barrier.

Here are the old parts that I removed and cleaned. I will be coming back to these parts in a couple of months. I wanted to solve the canister problem without changing other parts in the process.



Here's a picture of how I wrapped the wires in silicone tape and made a boot that covered the end of the electrical plug. I won't have to worry so much about road grime getting into the electrical plugs using this approach. Also, I used dielectric grease on the plug sockets to keep moisture out of the contact area.



Here's a picture of the new canister with surrounding parts.



Rear picture of the new canister installed.



So far no evap codes after the replacement and maintenance. Let's see how it goes. I will eventually replace the hoses and clamps to make it look better once I address more pressing issues like oil leaks.

After a few days the code returned. The new canister definitely reduced the code frequency. But the code eventually came back. I tired to clean out the Vapor Canister Purge Valve along with the other parts. I had a suspicion after I cleaned the parts that I would be revisiting this issue to replace some valve that had been damaged by the mud that was sucked into system. So I replaced the Vapor Canister Purge Valve with Dorman part number 911-508. Since then, no evap codes have returned.

Rit

iTrader: (3)

Nice write-up, and fantastic job on the repair.

I didn't realize that those canisters were so cheap. Every few years I get the Evap Code, and soak my evap plunger in PB Blaster, and it works for about 2-3 years before it gets rusted up again.

At some point, I will have to replace the canister and control.

pixelporsche

iTrader: (1)

I'll give this a try Have evap, egr and knock code. Have to do emissions testing soon. Way to go previous owner!

CS_AR

I bet the knock sensor code is a "ghost code" that will go away when the other codes disappear.

CS_AR

Just a quick update to report the evap code returned on the 98 model during a couple of 70 mile trips over a specific areas of I40 and I430. That specific trips seems to set off the Evap code. The car make other longer trips on I30 and I540 without issue. The car doesn't make that trip too often so the codes have basically stayed away. Replacing the evap canister and other valves listed above definitely helped remedy frequent codes. There is that one repeatable trip that has caused the code to return.

So yesterday I knew I would be making the trip again and wanted to try swapping in boost sensor and vacuum cut bypass valve from a 99 model. Those are the only parts in the evap area that I didn't change when I replaced the parts shown above. Well first off, the boost sensor and the vacuum cut valves hose position designs are different between a 98 and 99 model. No real surprise there.

However, the boost sensor hose connection position is not so different that it prevented me from using it. When I looked at the boost sensor from the 99 model, there is a straight view through the hose tube to a shiny metal part inside the sensor. Whatever part is inside that sensor looked clean and there were no obstructions in the hose connection. For the boost sensor that I replaced, I found a small amount of grunge on the inside of the hose connection.

So I removed the boost sensor in the picture below and replaced it with a used part from the 99 model I30. Then I took 98 model Maxima on the 70 mile trip. No codes. Maybe this change has finally resolved the issue.

I know this doesn't make a lot of sense, but for now the evap code is staying away and the car is running great.

Only Dennis would know the answer to this one.

Note the 98 model boost sensor in the picture below has a hose connection that faces the electrical plug. The 99 model sensor hose connection runs straight into the sensor bottom and does not have a 90 degree elbow turn like you see in the picture.



Also note the vacuum cut valve in the picture below are different between 98 and 99 models. So beware of any vacuum cut valve or boost valves that are listed as compatible for 95-99 models. There is a difference between 98 and 99 models.

edwardh1

where in the car is this part

CS_AR

Behind the driver side rear wheel. The first time I worked on evap system parts I removed the wheel for easy access. Since I know the system better on the 2nd time around, I left the wheel on and just jacked up the car so it was easier to access.

KP11520

Could you imagine how much more mud you'd find if it was a rear wheel drive?

Thank you for the awareness and schooling.

I miss the days when it was a distributor, points, cap, wires, plugs and a carburetor with a mechanical fuel pump.

Electronics were for the AM radio. Never mind all these other add-ons.

Both cars will be brand new eventually!

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I replaced the valve on the canister 7 years ago and now the P0440 and P1448 codes just started returning 2 weeks ago. I'll try cleaning and lubricating the valve before I purchase another new one. If needed I'll give the Intermotor valve a shot.

CS_AR

I picked up another evap canister for 99 model after I replaced the one on the 98. I want to replace it before it eventually goes out and allows charcoal to get in the system.

M in KC

^ this exact thing happened on our '97. A new canister is the only solution as you know.

CS_AR

Yesterday, code P1447 returned after 20 miles on a different interstate highway trip.

I reset the codes before the return trip and after 20 miles, the code returned. Since I cannot recreate the conditions to raise the code in my driveway or find anything wrong,
I will try Intermotor CVS84 (for a 1998 model) from RockAuto for $82.89.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1316803&jsn=11

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

I had that code as well on my 97.. the valve with the little plunger was seized and I was able to free it up with WD40 and a good cleaning. Code never came back after I was done.

Very nice job on the cleaning btw. Make sure all your vacuum hoses are good in the engine bay as well. Broken vac hoses for Evap purge system can relate to that code.

Rit

iTrader: (3)

Same here, but I used PB Blaster. Easy fix.

CS_AR

The new Intermotor CVS84 part arrived today for the 98 model from RockAuto.com.

Here's a photo comparison of the old Nissan OEM part compared to the new Intermotor part.

The difference in the pictures is the reason why I keep coming back to Intermotor for replacement parts.

The OLD OEM Part



The NEW Intermotor Part

KP11520

I like when "Genuine" means Genuine! Way to go!

KP11520

And since your PM box is full...........

Thank you Craig for helping!

That falls within what's available! 50 mil? I thought they would be 125 mil. (1/8th inch thick) We're onto something now!

Now I have another question.... How long a piece would totally insure no coils rounds bang together (dead coil area)? Would 18" be long enough?

We could make a fortune patenting this and even making end caps and sell complete axle kits! (Both sides)

It could happen! LOL

reallywildstuff

Craig - what is the proper name/OEM part number of the "boost sensor" in the first picture below? Did you replace this part?

I want to replace these parts (re: still can't shake EVAP code) and am getting the parts list together. So far I see:

Canister - Intermotor or OEM
vacuum cut valve - Intermotor
vapor canister purge valve - you bought Dorman, Intermotor also makes one
"boos sensor" - ?


What else?

Thanks

CS_AR

I bought a Dorman Vent Shut Valve (911-501) from Amazon for $54.14. I priced Intermotor at Rock for $85.79. The Dorman had many good reviews. So I decided to try it.

The Canister was SMP Intermotor CP3106 for $31.79 from Rock. I bought two. I'm going to proactively replace the one on the 99 model before it goes out and allows charcoal to get into the system.

The MAP Boost Sensor I moved from the 99 model I30. I don't think it made any difference. I will need to wait and see on that one.

The cut valve was Dorman (911-508) $56.47 at Amazon.

If the weather cooperates, I will install the Intermotor CVS84.

Each time I replace something it gets better. But the code eventually returns.

Let's see if this completely resolves the problem.

reallywildstuff

"MAP Boost sensor" makes me think of that sensor screwed/bolted to the front air intake (engine room)...but you would have mentioned that location surely? Is this a second boost sensor in your pic (located behind the DS rear wheel)? I cant find a drawing or reference for a "boost sensor" behind the real wheel.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Luckily it wasn't the higher priced vent control valve but the canister's charcoal is breaking up. The vent control valve had charcoal pieces stuck inside. After cleaning it up I tested it with 12V and the solenoid purged on every contact.

Code hasn't returned in 3 days since cleaning the valve. Following CS suggestion I ordered the Intermotor canister from rockauto for at least half the price of any local auto store. Before it arrives mid next week I'll be PB blasting the 3 rusted mounting bolts.

Would of never had this issue is I followed CS' guidelines!

CS_AR

Well I'm scratching my head on that as well. Maybe the one at the rear is controlled by or triggered by one of the other evap valves or solenoids. I need to look through a diagram to figure it out. All I know is the one I moved was working good so I wanted to see if it made a difference. I need to install the CVS84 and drive it on the stretch of highway where it likes to raise the code. I had NDS1 for Android running real time and could see the code pop up but no other abnormal readings occurred. I reset the code while driving and it stayed off until after stopping and driving for about the same distance on the return trip. The code stays off on the regular daily usage pattern. So it makes it hard to recreate the error. Ha!

CS_AR

This afternoon I installed the Intermotor CVS84 part and took the car for a drive on same highway where the code appeared last weekend. No codes on that 40 mile trip.

If the codes stay away, I think the old valve must have been on the edge of failure.

Let's see how it goes.

CS_AR

P1447 is back. My daughter took it on a 70 mile trip this morning that usually causes the code to surface. The the code stayed off during that trip. Then later in the morning on another short trip around town the code returned. I just reset the code.

Items to check.

reallywildstuff

"May The Wind Be At Your Back" Dude

I've started to buy these parts several times but each time I'm like "Nah, let's see where CS_AR ends up first".

Have you ever smoke-tested the EVAP system?

CS_AR

Looks like I need to learn how to run a smoke test.

reallywildstuff

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-machine.html

I bought the item shown from xfordguyx for $100 (now apparently for sale for $80) but have yet to even try to use it.

I don't know how offensive it is to introduce smoke from regular mineral oil into the finely-honed system that is a 4th Gen's EVAP equipment BUT if its "no big deal" then this seems like it would work great.

You'll also need one of these:

CS_AR

Thanks for the links and information RWS. Very interesting. I never knew such a device existed before now. It looks like a commonly used tool for finding evap system leaks.

CS_AR

This is interesting from Nissan's Techmate Service Solutions... Ideas..

https://techmate.service-solutions.c...&SiteId=Nissan

reallywildstuff

my '98 i30 already has an EVAP service port - your's should too?

It's in the engine room, it's got a green cap on it...

CS_AR

Without really looking that service port looks like the same thread pattern and size as one of my A/C guage lines from an old R12 set that I have. I could measure the pressure or vacuum if it fits. I wonder how far I could get with using some R134a with red dye to find a leak. It would be pressurized.

But looking at smokers makes me want to get mine out of the garage and smoke some RIBS this weekend and forget all about the car!

reallywildstuff

I definitely wouldn't fill it with anything under pressure.

CS_AR

I may start off by hooking up the vacuum pump just to see if it leaks. I found a hose from another old R134a set that is a thread match.

However, I will need to remove the service port Schrader valve for it to work to have a full opening. I saw a video where the Schrader valves are reversely threaded. So turn the valve clockwise to remove it.

But with finding this hose, I'm starting to have some options for this weekend.

KP11520

Good idea to adapt your A/C purge vacuum. But it's made for mostly metal tubing, is there any chance it can break down and or perf the old rubber hosing?

If its never been replaced, might be delicate.

If it's not too difficult, I'd probably replace all of it just to take that possibility off the table. Except for the time, probably the cheapest of the "all new" chain.

Good luck! I'll send you a few cold ones to celebrate your eventual success! LOL

CS_AR

I'm finding some interesting testing products for the evap system. A CO2 bottle to use instead of compressed air.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...980&ppt=C0192#

This looks like the pressure regulator.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/si...0980&ppt=C0192

Interesting system description and process for finding leaks.

http://www.diycardoctor.com/automotive_evap_system.htm

CS_AR

Well folks, I must admit this turned out to be one of the simplest fixes of all.

I should have replaced the gas cap as soon as I bought the car -- like on day one.

Today I removed and tested the gas caps on the 98, the 99 I30, the Q45 and the new Stant cap and found the ones without problems all have one thing in common.

"When vacuum is applied to the inner part of the cap, they make a slight whining noise that sounds almost like a saxophone or a low pitch reed instrument." Then when pressure is applied, the valve closes it makes a clean and tight seal to stop the air flow. The faulty cap would not make the whine noise and the valve did not appear to be making a tight closure.

After replacing the cap, I drove the car for over an hour on the trip where the P1447 code likes to surface. The code has not returned since I replaced the gas cap.

To prevent this from happening on the 99 model SE, I bought another Stant cap and will replace it later today.

I see where CourtesyParts and others also sell Stant locking gas caps, so they really can't be all bad. The Stant caps appear to have a good seal.

Here's a link to CourtesyParts locking Stant caps.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...sc?parent=1069


From the EC section of the FSM about Evap system diagnostics, here the page that talks about testing the cap.



Here are some pictures of the different Nissan caps that I tested to identify the valve problem. Note that I purchased the Stant cap at AdvanceAuto for $10.34 + tax.



Here's the front view. Notice how the Stant and the OEM cap like they come from the same mold.




Bottom Line: For less than $13, you can avoid evap code headaches by just replacing an old cap as preventative maintenance.

KP11520

Time to party like it's 1999..... Errrrr... Or 1998, like that new Maxima is becoming!

CONGRATULATIONS!

But don't sell your process short. That canister and the valve mounted on it, were only a matter of time. And maybe even a little contributory.

The cold ones are a few posts above! Pass them around!

CS_AR

Code P1447 returned this afternoon on a 2 mile trip. This is a different pattern than I've seen before.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

My EVAP stsyem on the 01 looks 100% the same as yours.


It's in bad shape. Look at the bracket . I purchased a new one from courtesy. I think it was around $38.

CS_AR

Installed a new MAP/BARO Switch Solenoid Valve (e.g. the brown one under the hood) this afternoon to see if it makes a difference. I already had one on hand.

Since I couldn't get an Intermotor from RockAuto, I went with OEM from Courtesy.