OUCH!

Why is it the last part you buy finally fixes it?

Because you don't need to buy any more after it's fixed! LOL

Something tells me that much of what you replaced was contributory to the codes. But isn't usually a 1443 code that indicates this part needs replacement?

Hopefully the gas cap is still doing a Sonny Rollins solo!

What's left really other than to trace out all the hosing and connectors? Maybe a T junction (plastic) has a crack somewhere? Or a compromise in the tubing where it's been rubbing on the path for 19 years and over 230K miles?

Like Dr Smith said on Lost in Space..... "Oh the Pain!"

BTW, stop with the 2 mile trips. LOL

We're cheering for ya!

 

I hope so because the next two likely suspects are in the $150 range each IIRC.. 😀

 

You mean there's even MORE expensive active components in this system?

The OUCH is getting all ET at this point (out of this world).

 

What's the word Craig?

 

Really weird. We're back to the original pattern. The code trips on the westbound lane of I40 at around mile 135 after driving for about 20 miles.

So far no codes when traveling east though.

 

Finally - After a trip to the salvage yard, and seeing a number of purge valves and solenoids that were full of charcoal, I found the issue to be a combination of clogged purge line and valves that were chocked full of charcoal.

The purge line clog was so tight that it took multiple tries with 125 lbs of compressed air to break it up so that air would pass freely through the purge line.

I disconnected the purge line at the charcoal canister, then disconnected the purge line in the picture below to hook up my compressed air nozzle.

I don't know how anybody could break up this type of clog without having access to a large air compressor. The old canister, in addition to being full of mud, allowed charcoal to pass into the purge line where it caused a clog. The previous owner must have been battling the clogged line and replaced the purge valve solenoid with some aftermarket valve. I replaced the purge valve solenoid and valve with OEM versions that I picked up at the salvage yard for less than $20.



Here's a picture of the purge valve solenoid and purge valve that I picked up this afternoon at a salvage yard.



Here's a picture of the air compressor that I used to break up the charcoal clog in the purge line. It took several tries with a high pressure nozzle attached to the purge line to finally break up the clog.



After clearing up the clogged line and replacing the purge valve and purge valve solenoid I took the car on trip and no codes appeared.

Conclusion:

Although the old canister was full of mud, it had also disintegrated and allowed charcoal to clog up the purge line.

When I cleaned up the mud filled lines, I did not detect or understand there would be a line clog from a broken charcoal canister. It wasn't until I saw several 4th gens in the salvage yard today with charcoal pouring from the purge valves that I started suspecting a charcoal clog problem.

Evap Case Closed - Time to move on to fun stuff like a Warpspeed Y-Pipe and a new exhaust system.

 

Can we add "Detective" to your list of credentials? Hopefully, this will find it's way to the top of the list when someone searches for a P1447 code.

Using compressed air needs to be high on the priority list before spending a bundle of money on components. But the canister is a must do first!

Thank you for reporting back the ultimate solution after you replaced what definitely needed to be changed. I'm sure this will help others!

 

Looking at everything the went on with this issue, I think it could have all been avoided if previous owner had replaced the vapor canister as preventative maintenance.

An Intermotor canister for a 98 model is in $40 price range.

Unfortunately, the canister for a 99 model is in the $200 range. I see O'Reilly sells an Intermotor with a lifetime warranty for $199. That's about the same price as Amazon.

I should go ahead and replace the canister on the 99 model before it gives trouble.

 

Not to resurrect this thread, but with the recent posts about evap codes, at what mileage should one replace that charcoal canister? I'm at 182k and doubt that it's been done.

<edit>/thread resurrected</edit>

 

The 98 model's canister was leaking charcoal when I got it with 230,000 miles. The 97 model has roughly 215,000 miles and I found charcoal in the lines. It was throwing an evap code when we got it. So based on those experiences, I guess around 200,000 miles. The canister for a pre-99 model is in the $40 or less price range.

Now here's the kick. The 99 model I30 has over 240,000 miles and no canister problems. The 99 Maxima has 215,000 and no canister problems. A replacement canister for a 99 model is roughly $200. There must have been a design change in 99 that increased the cost. I aim to replace the canister on the 99 Maxima sometime next year.

 

Double edged sword! Lasts longer but costs way more to replace... Mine's a 99 so I'll keep this in mind if I ever get an evap code.

 

Craig -

I want to replace the EVAP parts later this month. Is this a complete shopping list of everything that's behind the rear wheel?

SMP CVS84 / Intermotor #911511 "Vent Valve" $45.89
Airtex/Wells 2M1218 "Bypass Valve" $75.79
SMP CP667 / Intermotor 911508 "Vapor Canister Purge Valve" $82.79
Stant 10817 "Fuel Tank Cap" $3.45
SMP CP3106 "Vapor Canister" $31.79

All prices Rock Auto. Thanks!

PS I suspect there's also a "pressure sensor" back there as well - but no replacement parts are shown for sale? You stated you were iffy on whether swapping the pressure sensor caused a change - but I was never clear if that was the pressure sensor in the engine room, or "the one in the back" (?), or "both" or what...

 

Yes - SMP CVS84 / Intermotor #911511 "Vent Valve" $45.89
Yes - Airtex/Wells 2M1218 "Bypass Valve" $75.79
Yes - SMP CP667 / Intermotor 911508 "Vapor Canister Purge Valve" $82.79
Yes - Stant 10817 "Fuel Tank Cap" $3.45
Yes - SMP CP3106 "Vapor Canister" $31.79

The part that I'm having difficulty finding is the "boost sensor" in the image below. That is the part I swapped in a used on from the 99 model I30. I don't think that part made a difference. Also note the parts are difference between a 99 and 98 model. So I improvised with the 99 model part. This part is at the rear also.



Looking back, my underlying problem was with a clogged hose from a failed canister. I cleared that by applying compressed air directly to the hose above the service port in the picture below and having it disconnected at the rear of the car. That allowed a large amount of charcoal, that had been clogging the system, to be blown out on the driveway.

 

I replaced all of the EVAP parts behind the rear wheel today (not the "boost sensor" back there, though).

Since I first started glomming onto this thread re: my ECM not setting EVAP=OK, a "puddle" of charcoal and water has been appearing overnight(s) on the ground behind the driver's rear tire parking spot.

Upon disassembly - charcoal was pouring out of the canister's purge line. I did what CS_AR described and, disconnecting the line from the green EVAP port, blew the line towards the rear w compressed air, and clear of all charcoal particulate.

The round black plastic purge valve on top of the intake manifold was also full of charcoal. I removed it from the engine room, shook out all of the charcoal, and reinstalled. I did not observe any charcoal in the line between the purge valve and the purge solenoid, nor any "coming out the other side of the solenoid".

Hopefully there isn't any IN the solenoid, and hopefully both it and the purge valve are still functional. I am guessing this is a High Hope, however - and not Reality. I will test drive tomorrow - however as I understand it the EVAP takes forever to both set as well as throw a code, so...car last Inspected in 2016 re: won't pass without EVAP=OK (not "Pending").

This Planet Houston-based '98 i30 doesn't even have 120k miles on it, and has never seen snow. Re: other 4th Gen owners' questions "should I replace my charcoal canister?" - I posit that the life of the charcoal canister is measured in YEARS, not Miles, and is somewhere LESS THAN "Nineteen".

Which is to say: IF you're reading this on maxima.org after 12/2017 AND HAVE NOT yet replaced the charcoal canister on your 4th Gen Nissan product...then you probably should.

 

It sure looks like you found the issue. Did you reset your codes ok?

I need to buy a new canister for the 99 model as preventative maintenance. Unfortunately, canisters for a 99 model cost quite a bit more than the 98.

 

There _are_ no codes to reset. I double checked too - just the four "Not Ready" that it always shows on startup. If the EVAP will ever report READY I will have Won.

It would sometimes throw out P1440 but it would go away and not recur. The CEL would sometimes illuminate during longer trips (which this car gets almost none of) but there wouldn't be a code in the ECM by the time I could look at it (like that evening - during the very next on/off cycle).

 

The ECM threw P0134 and P0154 today - high voltage in both heated O2 sensors.

It normally throws "no codes".

This right after the EVAP work.

 

You might check, clean, and reseat the front O2 sensor plug receptacles.

You wouldn't have been anywhere near the front O2 sensors with the evap work.

At 120,000 miles, I would be surprised that both O2 sensors are showing an issue.

WAIT WAIT WAIT.. That sounds like a blown O2 sensor fuse.

 

I was the thinking "leftover carbon particulate now actually making its way thru un-blocked EVAP system and into intake, and car running "rich" as a result until carbon burns away".

O2 sensors have been replaced.

My pilot took the car this AM. I will check the O2 fuses when they return.

 

Back in the garage after being out today...No codes to clear.

OBD reports 5 Ready, 3 Incomplete (O2, Evap, and Catalyst) in "On" without the engine running.

 

What type of OBD reader are you using?

Nowadays, I use NDS1 for Android or a cheapie I picked up at Harbor Freight years ago that is like the $20 unit from Walmart.

I don't recall seeing an incomplete status with the 98 model. First thought is the 3 incompletes will require a running engine to get a good reading.

 

Top posting on CS_AR's thread because I've still got the same problem (ECM won't show all systems READY) and therefore it won't pass Emissions.

Its been (only) 120 miles of both highway and city driving since the battery was reconnected - but I would have expected to either see a CEL code by now, or seen all systems report READY. I've seen O2 and EGR show READY once when I tested it (halfway thru a 60 miles highway trip) - but never EVAP and CATALYST, and certainly not all at the same time.

At the inspection station, the 02, EGR, EVAP and CATALYST all showed "Not Ready". I am NOT getting any CELs (no repeats of the P0134 and P0154 that I was getting).

As noted elsewhere, when I R&R'd the external top end I did find more charcoal particulate in the EVAP line up to the Cut Valve, and also past the cut valve up to the EVAP volume solenoid...actually the hose between these two valves was "totally clogged" with charcoal.

I made double sure there was no charcoal in any lines anywhere when I put it back together. I also disconnected the EVAP line fore and aft (again, did it before but most not have done a very good job) and blew it out too. The charcoal canister and the EVAP valves behind the rear driver's tire are all new.

I have replacement EVAP hoses on order (for pride - crusty-*** hoses on top of all my hard work) as well as a new cut valve on the way. I couldn't tell whether the cut valve was operating properly on the bench or not...once it was totally clean, it did have more flow through it with vacuum applied than not; but I don't think it was totally closed without vacuum applied.

So my plan now is to drive it until I get either a CEL or all systems READY. If no change, then I will replace the cut valve, along with the other EVAP hoses and without disconnecting the battery.

 

That’s weird these old cars are getting annoying man.

I did the 3.5 swap Super charged, 570cc injectors, and did the EGR delete in my Nistune. I’m still getting a code for EGT, I didn’t even node we had a sensor for that. Can’t pass inspection till I get this figured out as well.

 

Brian - Do you have a CEL code reader that will reset codes?

I keep a simple one in the glove box that can be purchased at Walmart for less than $16 these days. It sure came in handy while debugging the evap issue.

 

YES, indeed I do, this is the one I keep in the car:

https://www.boschdiagnostics.com/diy...bosch-obd-1000

However - there are "no codes to reset". Even if there were - resetting the codes causes all systems to revert to "Incomplete" (I've been using the terms "Incomplete" and "Not Ready" interchangeably).

Today at lunch I see that CATALYST and EGR are now the (only) two reporting INCOMPLETE. I hadn't seen EVAP report READY in "two years".

I am going to drive the **** out of it Saturday morning, hope the CATALYST and EGR report "Ready", and then dive-bomb the inspection station (leave it running for them).

 

I just installed my Nistune only got to mess around with it a little bit before the ground wire solder connection completely came undone and fried my USB ports (need a whole new motherboard it won't turn on after shutting it off) and my consult cable.

Anyways I'm 3.5 swapped and was also looking around trying to delete all of my useless CELs so I'll actually be alerted when I get a real code. Which section did you use to disable the egr? I saw in the display list there is a hex editor so we have access to the raw rom values I don't see why we wouldn't be able to manually delete any CEL I thought I remembered seeing letters and numbers along with the CELs almost like some sort of address reference

 

I had my EGR code deleted by Mat at Nistune. You won’t be able to permanently delete any codes unless it’s written in your ECU. Reach out to Mat at Nistune over sees. If you need a new consult cable, Andy at Autovahn can get you one I believe. He’s a local Nistune distributors in the US.

Any idea why I would get and EGT code? I have my ERG blocked off at the manifold and had the EGR code deleted.

 

There is a section listed in expert mode (change this in the configuration if you need to) the left hand side where the maps are towards the bottom there will be DTC Filtering in one of those I saw EGT listed with a checkbox

I got a concept Z consult cable for $75 and bought my Nistune board from tuner wizard for $250(they upped it $10 or $20 afterwards) and it was shipped directly from Nistune

Installed the board myself without desoldering and just using some quality solder flux leftover from my Xbox 360 mod chip business before I was old enough to have a license. Pretty sure that stuff is cancerous and not produced anymore but the RadioShack flux was **** in comparison
​​​​​

 

If you have the concept Z or an ECUTalk cable and are running an Android phone, you can download the NDSI application from the play store and get Nissan Data Scan diagnostics and reset ability from your phone.

The only feature the phone app lacks that I like on the PC version is the ability to run a power balance test to isolate a misfiring cylinder.

http://www.nissandatascan.com/

 

That looks a variation of the model I got from Harbor Freight many years ago. Mine is either showing a code or not (after clearing or no codes to report).

If you are not getting codes, I don't see how the inspection bureau expects you prepare or remedy a problem before inspection.

 

 

Well of course I have an Android phone, could never settle for such a limited platform as apple. My plans are to replace my headunit with a raspberry pi setup, media center/gauges/Nistune all from there, I also got an email from a site I apparently forgot to check don't send me emails but it was an article about using it as a boost controller

 

Congratulations! Glad to see you made it.

 

If the EGT option doesn't remove it then try the crankshaft sensor in Register 4.

I've opened my bin file in another file editor to see how turning on and off the filters works. OBD2 Pxxxx formatted codes are already in hex form (P1446=1446 in hex) so you can easily open the bin files and do a search for a specific code. Then you can see the address it writes to in the bottom left of nistune when you select a filter and also the "Main" (value) that is entered in at that address. The TPS, Fuel Temp Sensor, and the IAT DTC codes are listed in Hex in the same exact order as they are in Nistune Filter Register 4. The filter options are identical for all cars with different selections made by default, I'm thinking the one size fits all options may not be completely accurate, the filter registers go in order in hex and also the address each register changes are all in consecutive order.

If I'm right and the registers just aren't one size fits all then I can just do a little finger counting to figure out which address I need to modify for which DTC and modify it to the value that deselects that DTC. If not when Matt is awake in Australia maybe he can do in 5 minutes what I spent an hour and a half trying to figure out how to do. It must be nice to have all the answers

 

1997 Maxima with 233K in North Carolina.
It was getting a p1446 code. It turned out to be the evaporation vent control solenoid valve not closing.
It is the valve mounted on the front of the carbon canister.
The valve piston was stuck open. Electrical testing showed a coil resistance of about 10 ohms and a coil current draw at 12VDC at about 1.2A.
I sprayed some WD40 into the piston area of valve and took a small screwdriver into it and pried the piston until it started moving.
With several up-down cycles it loosened up and started operating freely.
Re-installed it and now am waiting for a evap system self test to verify operation.