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The new $11 injectors that I ordered on 10/2 from China, arrived via USPS today. Since the price was so low, I ordered seven to have a spare.
Once I received them I planned to ship them off to a company in FL to get them flow tested for $7 each. Based on what I received, I'm starting to have second thoughts about sending them out for testing. They look and Ohm tested better than what I thought I would get for $11.
What would you do?
Here's some pictures and a comparison to some $130 BWD 370cc z32/VH45 injectors.
The eBay injectors came in sealed packages. The injectors have some type of lightweight oil on the surface. I think the fluid was used in testing or to keep the injectors lubricated during storage.
The BWD injectors have nice red nozzle protective caps and a top cushion ring included.
The nozzle end on the new China injectors look like what I remember about OEM injectors.
Here's a close up. Strangely, the 270 cc injector screen body has "Made in Japan" stamped around the upper ring.
Ohm testing results. All injectors tested within the 11 to 14 Ohm range.
1 @ 11.4 Ohms
4 @ 11.5 Ohms
2 @ 11.6 Ohms
I think I will use three of the 11.5 Ohm units on the right bank (under the plenum), then one 11.5 and two 11.6 Ohm units on the left bank. The injectors I refurbished a few years ago actually have greater Ohm variance. I can't remember specific differences. I just remember each injector having a different reading within the 11 to 14 Ohm range.
Here's where I found the BWD injectors are a bit different. Both BWD 370 cc injectors tested at exactly 11.0 Ohms. I remember the eight BWD injectors that I installed six years ago all tested with exactly the same Ohm reading. I don't know if it makes a difference on flow, but the BWD were all from the same lot and flow matched.
BWD test 1.
BWD test 2.
Has anyone seen purportedly "rebuilt injectors" in the same packaging as this picture? I wonder if some of the rebuilt injectors we see on eBay are actually rebuilt or are they actually reboxed injectors from the same source?
If this really works out, for $66 shipped, new injectors just became an affordable maintenance item.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Use motor oil to lubricate the o-rings before installation. Unlubricated o-rings and seals will pinch can cause post installation leaks.
My 99 has 193K miles, original injectors, never failed.. Curious why you say they fail so often? I have always used premium fuel, and Techron added once a year...
I wouldn't be too concerned about the variations in the ohm readings. It does speak of the level of manufacturing quality where "close enough" is the goal instead of right on".
But functionally that small of a ohm variation from one to the other isn't worth the concern. On the old VG30 engines in the 3rd gen, those injectors still worked at 30+ ohms when the spec was 12 ohms. Since the injector is using an electromagnet to open the valve all the way, a little bit of difference in the strength of the magnetic field isn't going to matter, especially in a daily driver.
My 99 has 193K miles, original injectors, never failed.. Curious why you say they fail so often? I have always used premium fuel, and Techron added once a year...
We haven't seen any good explanation for the reason why injectors start leaking at different mileage points. Other than the number of members who report leaking injectors seems to be increasing over the years.
I had two leaking injectors on one 99 model at 165,000 miles. The other 99 model has 275,000 miles with no leaks that I can detect. The 98 model has 230,000 miles and no apparent leaks.
I am combining injector replacement with an under the UIM service to replace the valve cover gaskets. If everything works as I expect it will, then I don't plan to go under the UIM on that car for many years.
So I'm doing preventative maintenance for an item where we see leak occurrences trending upward that appears to be based on the age of the plastic materials used in the pintle caps and elasticity of the o-rings.
The first time I dealt with true injector failure (e.g. Ohm resistance 0) was in 2010 on a 19 year old Infiniti with 115,000 miles. I knew the previous owner and he went out of his way to always use the best fuel in that car. Again, I think it is one of things that just comes with age over mileage.
To me, this is like doing preventative maintenance on radiator/heater hose. I would rather replace a 20 year old hose on my schedule, than wait for it to break at a time when I may not have the time to DIY repair it.
We haven't seen any good explanation for the reason why injectors start leaking at different mileage points. Other than the number of members who report leaking injectors seems to be increasing over the years. ....
It could be because as the world has become more and more environmentally friendly, gasoline has changed it's composition to help the vehicle provide a cleaner output. Today's gasoline, while being much cleaner to burn, I gather also is a lot "drier" so fuel components such as fuel pumps and injectors that rely on the fuel for lubrication, don't get it. Let's bring back leaded gasoline.
I think this could also explain why TCW3 is so great on today's cars.....even brand new ones with spanking new injectors etc benefit from TCW3.
It could be because as the world has become more and more environmentally friendly, gasoline has changed it's composition to help the vehicle provide a cleaner output. Today's gasoline, while being much cleaner to burn, I gather also is a lot "drier" so fuel components such as fuel pumps and injectors that rely on the fuel for lubrication, don't get it. Let's bring back leaded gasoline.
I think this could also explain why TCW3 is so great on today's cars.....even brand new ones with spanking new injectors etc benefit from TCW3.
I need to get back into using TCW3.
It turns out that many if not most all of the low-cost injectors found around the internet today are all from the same supplier in China. You can buy them in lots of 100 for prices ranging from $1 to $2 each. You can call them rebuilt, new, get a long warranty, flow test, and etc.. I don't see how they will ever match the quality of a BWD or SMP built product.
I agree with the concept of preventative maintenance. Because I can do that on my schedule, under the best conditions.
Consider how you would deal with leaking injectors which roast your cats during winter.
You would be doing the injectors, and the cats in the cold and snow.
Besides, cat replacement costs quite a bit.
Been there, done that in the snow almost 3 years ago. It's not fun.
That's why I'm aiming to get this year's project done by mid-Nov.
I'm going to ship the injectors to Pro Flow Tech tomorrow for a $7 flow test. That should tell me how good or bad these injectors perform before I install. If they all come back good, then we have a winner.
The injectors came back from Pro Flow Injector testing today. I like the quick turnaround. All injectors passed. Now I have 7 new tested injectors.
ProFlow returns each injector in a sealed bag for each injector that is numbered along with a corresponding testing report.
The testing report provides a low (start up) and high (steady 10,000 RPM) flow rate.
Low and High resting results with my coil resistance Ohm test after testing and the Cyl where I will install the injector.
#1 - 27 to 38 - 11.2 to Cyl 6
#2 - 27 to 40 - 11.2 to Cyl 1
#3 - 27 to 40 - 11.2 to Cyl 3
#4 - 27 to 40 - 11.1 to Cyl 4
#5 - 27 to 38 - 11.3 - Keep In Reserve
#6 - 27 to 40 - 11.3 to Cyl 2
#7 - 27 to 40 - 11.2 to Cyl 5
Not that it matters in the least, but my resistance testing is now closer to 11.0 Ohms after the flow test.
Ok so now I feel good about installing the $11 eBay injectors after this test. The additional $7 per injector testing by an independent organization is worth the piece of mind.
Again, I'm not running a boosted engine or looking to race an engine with 230,000 miles. This is just a way to cover an injector refresh as part of a mid-life preventative maintenance program.
Last night I changed the left bank (front) three injectors. After looking at the condition of the old injectors, I'm really glad that I'm doing this replacement.
The o-ring on one injector had become hardened and flat compared to the other two. All injectors were extremely dirty. I just don't see how the car ran as good as it did with those injectors.
I did try out a new tool from Harbor Freight that seems to well for pulling injectors. The tool name is a Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers. Also, I will use the tools for removing and installing hoses. I can think of more than one use for this tool.
Look at the crud on the end of the left injector in this picture. This weekend I aim to replace the other three under the intake plenum. I'm sure those injectors are in similar shape. What a MESS!
The injectors in the picture did not leak -- that I could detect anyway.
After looking at the condition of the old injectors, I am now 100% convinced that proactive injector service or replacement is a very worthwhile endeavor for a high mileage vehicle.
CLICK on the picture below to expand it and see all of the crud buildup on the screen and pintle cap.
One of the o-rings was flat and hardened compared to the other two. You can see the nozzle end condition in this picture.
Last night I replaced the 3 under UIM injectors. One had started the pintle cap crack up process. All injectors were very dirty. Like one in the front, there was one lower o-ring that lost its bounce.
Just from what I've seen on here and experienced first hand, I think the old injectors would have started leaking within the next year.
We haven't seen any good explanation for the reason why injectors start leaking at different mileage points. Other than the number of members who report leaking injectors seems to be increasing over the years.
Who needs an explanation? The caps get brittle and break. Brittle plastic is a result of under hood heat. Our cars are old, mostly bought used, and negelected by a PO. Running lean with low coolant causes heat.
I didn't realize this was a mystery to anyone. you could have saved yourself money by just buying new caps.
Hi there.. sorry to bump this older thread, but i wanted to ask.. did you see any improvements in performance and/or mpg after this injector switch?
Thank you very much also for doing the science on these. I think i will probably pick up a set soon.
I recently bought a 97 maxima with 211k miles and the engine does stumble and shake quite a bit across all RPMs. The car starts great, even below freezing. Idle is pretty steady.
O2 sensors have been replaced all around, and the second it does the closed/open look transition, the engine loses dramatic amounts of power and performs like a 4 cylinder! this indicates to me that the ECU is dialing down the power for some reason. I suspect the fuel system is the culprit..
Hi there.. sorry to bump this older thread, but i wanted to ask.. did you see any improvements in performance and/or mpg after this injector switch?
Thank you very much also for doing the science on these. I think i will probably pick up a set soon.
I recently bought a 97 maxima with 211k miles and the engine does stumble and shake quite a bit across all RPMs. The car starts great, even below freezing. Idle is pretty steady.
O2 sensors have been replaced all around, and the second it does the closed/open look transition, the engine loses dramatic amounts of power and performs like a 4 cylinder! this indicates to me that the ECU is dialing down the power for some reason. I suspect the fuel system is the culprit..
Maybe a touch smoother.. Though the old fuel filter was very dirty and I cleaned the EGR tubes and replaced the EGR and EGR vacuum solenoid along with the new injectors. The old injectors were healthy. Since the cost was so low, injector replacement was strictly done as preventative maintenance.
On the last mileage run, it got 28.5 MPG. For some of the run, it was driven into a head wind. It might have delivered 29 MPG without the head wind. I like to run NGK copper v-power plugs and change them at 24,000-mile intervals.
Nice to hear these low priced injectors are functioning well!
These 16600-10Y00 appear to be longer than the OEMs I've pulled from my 1998 and various A32s at the JY. To fit these longer JECs fuel injectors into the rail do the OEM rail cushion rings need to be replaced with larger ones? If they do please provide the PNs for the rail cushion rings and the cap cushions. I plan on ordering a set of 6 new JECs fuel injectors. Injector #2 started leaking and needs to be replaced.
Here's a photo of injector 2 I just pulled. I already snapped off the broken pintle cap. I plan on refurbishing this injector with a new cap, mesh screen, and O-rings. Also give it a cleaning with sea foam.
Maybe a touch smoother.. Though the old fuel filter was very dirty and I cleaned the EGR tubes and replaced the EGR and EGR vacuum solenoid along with the new injectors. The old injectors were healthy. Since the cost was so low, injector replacement was strictly done as preventative maintenance.
On the last mileage run, it got 28.5 MPG. For some of the run, it was driven into a head wind. It might have delivered 29 MPG without the head wind. I like to run NGK copper v-power plugs and change them at 24,000-mile intervals.
That's impressive smoothness. My engine runs like it's missing a cylinder and has gradually gotten worse over the last year. As soon as i am done with a compression test, i am following your lead on replacing the injectors. You've provided excellent information here, and thanks again for that.
Using every hypermiling trick in the book except intermittently turning the engine off... i typically see 29-33mpg average with hypermiling runs over a 20 mile mostly highway course @ 65-70mph. Considering that my car is in a horrible state of tune, i am impressed by this. I do have 3% taller tires which is contributing to the better mpg, since our 5th gears are so tall..
I bet my injectors are totally thrashed. Time to pull them soon and show what i had going on.
Thanks CS! I did find it earlier and it gives me the important talking points when I call them tomorrow!
Like we discussed earlier, I wonder if the 27 to 40 give us more of what we want than the 27 to 38 flow rate? And I also will ask if the ohms are also matched and which manufacturer OEM injectors are rebuilt?
In searching for this, I found a thread and Turbobink mentions that the Jecs Injectors were a tad longer (Probably the long filter version) The more info I find, the harder it becomes to know what will give the best outcome.
Lately, all the research for our Maximas is getting to be such a hassle. Everything is ambiguous and a lot of go to parts aren't available anymore!
Another option is to have your existing injectors rebuilt and flow tested.
I elected to go that route a few years ago.
I sent my injector's to Injector RX in Houston.
They charge 18 dollars per injector.
I put each injector in a labeled baggie. So that I could put each injector back where it was.
I took them to the post office. Shipping by Priority Mail. The company sends them back the same way. Turn around time was less than a week.
Tb, All that tells me is that you belong in the same loony bin as me. Hell, we can bring JvG, CS_AR, The Wiz and all the rest too. Imagine the parties!
Old Max owners never die, they just keep looking for parts!
Fuel Injector options, along a similar line as JvG, but with one difference, I just spoke to Rob at Motor Man Fuel Injector Supply. Rather than laying up your car for a period of time, Rob sells rebuilt ORIGINAL Jecs OEM injectors and sells a set of 6 that are matched to within 2 percent. No Chinese garbage, and since our 4th Gens used original Jecs that were MIJ, this sounds like the ticket to me. If we get our injectors rebuilt, it takes down time AND, whatever you send, you get back. Flow tested yes, but no matching. Matching helps with a smooth idle and same wide open flow output. AND.... This way you can do the front bank of three first and run them for a while, and then transfer them to the back when they prove out and finish the rest in the front. And if one in the front isn't right, easy to swap. Not like the back. And they test @ Low 12.X Ohms as well. Like what our Maximas are used to and looking for. The Chinese ones seem to be at low 11.X.
If this turns out to be something many of us would use, he is willing to supply a Promo Code to use on his web-site to sweeten the deal a bit. He takes credit cards AND PayPal. Right now the price is $129.94 and there's a one year replacement warranty.
How do we find out if we have a quorum to make this a real deal with Rob?
Originally Posted by Turbobink
KP,
What is it that you’re up to/investigating?
Inquiring minds want to know ... at least this one does.
KP,
Can you do me a favor. Can you ask if he also has injectors for a 2000 Maxima? I could be wrong, but I believe they are the top feed kind. I'm just about to start ripping apart my 5th gen to fix the 'flashing CEL of death' problem. Thank you.
10-19-2016, 03:58 PM
Been there, done that in the snow almost 3 years ago. It's not fun. 
