This afternoon I installed a NWP Engine Torque Link on the 98 GLE automatic. Installation was quick and easy. NWP does a "first class" job on packaging and instructions for this product.

I've been running a NWP torque bar on the 99 SE 5-MT for 3 years. It really provides a nice tight feel and practically eliminates any engine rock during during take off and downshifting.

For the 98 model GLE automatic, it gives a more direct feel and eliminated some of the sloppy feeling that comes from engine movement with an automatic. I now feel more connected to the engine when driving -- like it has a little more torque. Any wheel hop that it had before the installation is now unnoticeable.

The engine mounts are in very good shape on both cars. By reducing engine rock, I believe these torque links help extend the life of engine mounts.

Here's a picture below.



Video about the NWP Torque Bar below.

 

about how much and how long to install? my motor mount on that side is loose, i'd like to try that before replacing the mount to see if that'll stop engine rock. i get a nice "kick" when putting it in drive so i think the trans mount is getting replaced soon too.

 

$160. 30 to 45 minutes.

New mounts will cost less. I've always installed it on good mounts.

Instructions are at the following link.

http://nwpengineering.com/NWP_Engine_Torque_Link.pdf

 

Today my daughter took her 98 Maxima for 60+ mile drive.

So this afternoon I sent her a text asking if she noticed a difference.

She replied: "Car handles better and is more responsive."

I'm glad she like it.

 

This is not a band aid for bad mounts....

 

Not at all. You need to start with good mounts.

 

My bad. My post was directed at maxride41

 

Any additional vibrations??

 

Very slight amount of engine vibes are transmitted from the engine to body. I keep the adjustment level on mine fairly tight. We actually like that "direct and connected" feeling. At some point, I will swap in a mount from a MT to tighten up the engine feel at bit more.

We like ES poly bushings, high performance struts, strut tower bars, and things that generally tighten up the suspension. So it works well with the other mods. This is not a mod for your father's Oldsmobile.

 

Not now. Here's an update to this question and thread post from a few months ago.

This afternoon I did some experimentation that has cancelled any vibes from being transmitted from the engine to the body. This only appears on the 98 model automatic when sitting with the car in drive or reverse with your foot on the brake. Since the 99 model is a 5-speed, I have no reason to apply this mod to that car. This only applies to automatics.

This simple little mod makes a subtle difference on the 98 model automatic when the car is sitting at a stop light to cancel any engine noise from connecting with the body.

With this mod, I still get all of the benefit from the NWP torque link providing a more "direct feel" and the elimination of wheel hop. Also, in this post will show you how a cheap "Made in Taiwan" engine mount has lasted for over 4 years with a young aggressive driver on the 99 model 5-MT where I installed the NWP torque link over 3 years ago.

I can't say enough good things about the the NWP torque links. I have the product installed on both 4th gens. I like my torque links.

I already had a package of Energy Suspension 9.9533G Leaf Spring Pad, 7/16" I.D x 1/4" Height pads from some sub-frame experimentation last month. I decided to trim one of the pads and use is as a bushing between the engine mount and the torque link. Here's a picture of the ES 9.9533G pads. It only takes one.



Next I used the metal cap part of an Energy Suspension anti-sway bar end link kit with an end link bushing.

Here's how it looks with the pad and the end link bushing. Note that I filed down one side of the end link cap so that it would not touch the torque link bracket. The bolt is roughly 1" longer than the standard bolt that comes with the kit. I found a stainless steel bolt with the same thread pitch in the Hillman Fastener section of my local Ace Hardware store.



The torque link still does its job just fine. It just works to cancel any engine noise transfers to the body.

Note that I am NOT using an ES end link bushing on the top. This was a bushing that came along with some MOOG end links that I bought several years ago.

Since this has worked out so well, I may try it with an ES bushing to both upper and lower will be using the same material that should last for many years.



Here's a picture of an engine mount that has "Made in Taiwan" stamped on the top that I know has been running on the 99 model SE 5-MT for over 4 years, possibly 5 or more. The car is primarily driven in town.

This mount has at least 50,000 miles with a young aggressive driver. I still believe that running a NWP torque link lets me run low cost engine mounts for many years without issue.




I got the idea for using the end link bushing and cap from a old Mercedes 450SL engine stabilizer mount that uses the same principle to keep the engine from rocking under load. So this isn't a new idea by any means. The NWP link is a simpler and more effective solution in my opinion.

 

I'm about to order a torque link (thanks to your posts) in hope of fixing the terrible wheel hop that causes the air flow meter to fall off.

One thing I want to know, what is best the setting for it? How tight do you set yours?

 

I hand tighten it. Then I use a wrench on the long center part and give it about 1/4 of a turn. It's based on feel. Once I get the inner part set, then I tighten the end nuts so it will lock down. It tightens up like the video. It's easy to get it adjusted. I found the video to be very helpful and the NWP installation instructions are spot on.

 

While idling at 600rpm the engine doesn't knock nor ping but the whole car still vibrates on my 1998 AT. All 4 engine mounts are still in good condition. My 2000 5SPD doesn't vibrate at all when idling.

I always assumed it was the larger cylinder bearings on the VQ30DEK that made it idle much smoother. Knowing it could be that huge AT causing the vibration I'll order that torque link. Thanks for the lead!