This is a bunch of bull****: 2 seized/cross threaded lug nuts, I broke 1 off.
#1
This is a bunch of bull****: 2 seized/cross threaded lug nuts, I broke 1 off.
I couldn't get a much needed rotation/balancing done on 1 tire that has a seized lugnut. I think one of the "tools" who changed my brakes a couple times tightened them too tightly.
One of the major tire shops didn't want to risk breaking the 2nd lugnut. I was having major vibration while out of town and went to another location last month, they said it had a seized lug-nut and couldn't rebalance that one. I took my basic long torque wrench (nothing fancy) and popped off one of them the other day. i spun all the other nuts to make sure nothing else was stuck. They all seemed fined except that one.
So at this point, what should I do to have all 10 nuts on both sides replaced, because I'm also missing one on the other side. I'm thinking of doing it myself once I get in the garage...but is it hard to remove the whole stud or does the whole wheel pack (brake rotor) need to come off?
Kinda annoying going in for stuff like this and something so common and simple holds it up.
One of the major tire shops didn't want to risk breaking the 2nd lugnut. I was having major vibration while out of town and went to another location last month, they said it had a seized lug-nut and couldn't rebalance that one. I took my basic long torque wrench (nothing fancy) and popped off one of them the other day. i spun all the other nuts to make sure nothing else was stuck. They all seemed fined except that one.
So at this point, what should I do to have all 10 nuts on both sides replaced, because I'm also missing one on the other side. I'm thinking of doing it myself once I get in the garage...but is it hard to remove the whole stud or does the whole wheel pack (brake rotor) need to come off?
Kinda annoying going in for stuff like this and something so common and simple holds it up.
#2
Lol good thing that it did break, now replacing it is the fun part, on these 4th gens. All you do to get the stud out is to take off tire, caliper and rotor in that order. Find the broken stud get a 5lb hammer or what you have and hit the crap out of it, it will pop right out. Then insert new stud apply some washers, then bolt down with lugnut with a impact gun until the stud head in the back is flush with the hub.
Last edited by lux97Max; 12-20-2016 at 08:56 PM.
#3
Sounds fun, except i don't have an impact gun. I'll likely have to take it back to the place I had the brakes done at...I doubt they'll do it for free but in the meantime my front and rear valve cover is the main concern...
The tire place was so **** about liability if they let me off with 3 lugnuts that they didn't want to do it. Understandable I guess. I've just never had 2 cross threaded bolts on the same wheel. I had suggested removing it with a regular torque wrench, but they didn't do it "that way".
The tire place was so **** about liability if they let me off with 3 lugnuts that they didn't want to do it. Understandable I guess. I've just never had 2 cross threaded bolts on the same wheel. I had suggested removing it with a regular torque wrench, but they didn't do it "that way".
Last edited by 97_GXE; 12-21-2016 at 12:18 AM.
#4
removing any bolt or nut with a torque wrench would destroy that wrenchs calibration and make it useless. no mechanic with even 1/2 a brain would do that ,replacing studs is a very simple process and tire shops do it all the time. not a big deal.
did all mine in my garage in less than an hour. including getting everything out of the way and put back
did all mine in my garage in less than an hour. including getting everything out of the way and put back
#5
#6
Sure, i would not use a torque wrench for this when I have a breaker bar available, but seems OK to do - IMHO.
Last edited by Rit; 12-21-2016 at 06:02 AM.
#7
You don't need an impact gun to pull the new stud in it just speeds the process along. Bust out your trusty dusty 1/2" ratchet, some washers and a good lug nut and crank away. There's no torque setting you just need the base of the lug stud flush with the back of the hub.
#8
#9
removing any bolt or nut with a torque wrench would destroy that wrenchs calibration and make it useless. no mechanic with even 1/2 a brain would do that ,replacing studs is a very simple process and tire shops do it all the time. not a big deal.
did all mine in my garage in less than an hour. including getting everything out of the way and put back
did all mine in my garage in less than an hour. including getting everything out of the way and put back
The point was, maybe if they screwed it off without the air tool it'd come off more readily. But, based on the 1 seized one I took off, once it's cross threaded, it tends to just cause the whole stud/bolt to be fused and warped.
#10
I've had a number of lug bolts cross threaded by tire shops where the installer would stick the bolt in an impact socket and start tightening without taking the time to start the thread before using the impact gun.
I find these many months later when I'm removing a wheel to do something at home.
I keep a M12-1.25 "thread chaser" (same size as the Nissan lug nut) in my tool box to repair the threads when that happens. I think bought my chaser from Ace Hardware like the one in the picture. I've repaired about 5 or six cross threaded lug bolts over the past 4 years. I use some penetrating oil to lube the bolt and chaser, take my time, and carefully work the threads back into shape.
I find these many months later when I'm removing a wheel to do something at home.
I keep a M12-1.25 "thread chaser" (same size as the Nissan lug nut) in my tool box to repair the threads when that happens. I think bought my chaser from Ace Hardware like the one in the picture. I've repaired about 5 or six cross threaded lug bolts over the past 4 years. I use some penetrating oil to lube the bolt and chaser, take my time, and carefully work the threads back into shape.
#12
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Good information. This is a new issue for me. But my thing is, can you rethread it if the bolt breaks off with the end of the stud and its say a few centimeters shorter than It started out? Then, can you still use an OEM lugnut? Because mine was literally warped into the threads to where breaking it was the only solution.
Y'all are gonna laugh at me, but I just didn't have time to do it myself...and had needed the tire balanced and rotated ASAP. So, I just took it to the off brand tire shop I normally go to. I paid $70, but from what it looks like, all they did was (I think) put a new lug on top of the shortened 2 broken off studs. But, even if they did replace the studs, they put these aftermarket lugs on that are flat and don't match the other 3.
I'm just kinda pissed and feel ripped. But, even though it's sounds easy...I've had the price quoted a couple times at other places and it all seems to run $60-90...even for 1 broken stud. And I'm just like what the hell? How does it cost that much to fix some **** so simple.
I woulda argued, but the work was already done and I didn't really think about it til later. But...I'm def not going to let them do my valve cover gasket and I think this will be the last bit of work they do on my car. Sometimes you think the no name tire shops be cheaper, but idk their pricing seems too variable and sketchy. How much would Firestone or the Dealershop charge for the same thing (hypothetically). Can't see it being that much more...
^
Good information. This is a new issue for me. But my thing is, can you rethread it if the bolt breaks off with the end of the stud and its say a few centimeters shorter than It started out? Then, can you still use an OEM lugnut? Because mine was literally warped into the threads to where breaking it was the only solution.
Y'all are gonna laugh at me, but I just didn't have time to do it myself...and had needed the tire balanced and rotated ASAP. So, I just took it to the off brand tire shop I normally go to. I paid $70, but from what it looks like, all they did was (I think) put a new lug on top of the shortened 2 broken off studs. But, even if they did replace the studs, they put these aftermarket lugs on that are flat and don't match the other 3.
I'm just kinda pissed and feel ripped. But, even though it's sounds easy...I've had the price quoted a couple times at other places and it all seems to run $60-90...even for 1 broken stud. And I'm just like what the hell? How does it cost that much to fix some **** so simple.
I woulda argued, but the work was already done and I didn't really think about it til later. But...I'm def not going to let them do my valve cover gasket and I think this will be the last bit of work they do on my car. Sometimes you think the no name tire shops be cheaper, but idk their pricing seems too variable and sketchy. How much would Firestone or the Dealershop charge for the same thing (hypothetically). Can't see it being that much more...
Last edited by 97_GXE; 12-23-2016 at 10:52 PM.
#13
I've only used a thread chaser where the stud bolt was original length. I don't want to try to reuse the mangled wheel nuts. I keep a box of replacement M12-1.25 Acorn type wheel nuts around for when I find one that has been stripped during a rotation and wheel balance.
I've got 4 Nissan products that all use the same lugs. I know it's sad but I've learned what to keep in stock for when I find one that has been stripped.
I just had some replacement tires installed on the Q45 today at a small local shop. So I wouldn't be surprised if the next time I remove the wheels I will find one or two lugs in need of some thread chasing and a nut replacement.
As far as Firestone stores go, I have an incredibly good one near me. One day I was driving past it and noticed three Nissan 240SXs (S14s) parked on the side where the employees park. I pulled in and asked if they were having some type of S14 party. It turns out three of the guys in the shop are big Nissan s-chassis lovers. So we get along well and they take good care of me. Outside of the dealer, they are the only people I've found that know how to align my crazy car that's a mix of 300ZX and 240SX suspension types. Yet I know there are Firestone stores roughly 40 miles away that I wouldn't want to touch my stuff. It all depends on the skill level of the guys in the shop. I use Firestone for alignments only.
I've got 4 Nissan products that all use the same lugs. I know it's sad but I've learned what to keep in stock for when I find one that has been stripped.
I just had some replacement tires installed on the Q45 today at a small local shop. So I wouldn't be surprised if the next time I remove the wheels I will find one or two lugs in need of some thread chasing and a nut replacement.
As far as Firestone stores go, I have an incredibly good one near me. One day I was driving past it and noticed three Nissan 240SXs (S14s) parked on the side where the employees park. I pulled in and asked if they were having some type of S14 party. It turns out three of the guys in the shop are big Nissan s-chassis lovers. So we get along well and they take good care of me. Outside of the dealer, they are the only people I've found that know how to align my crazy car that's a mix of 300ZX and 240SX suspension types. Yet I know there are Firestone stores roughly 40 miles away that I wouldn't want to touch my stuff. It all depends on the skill level of the guys in the shop. I use Firestone for alignments only.
Last edited by CS_AR; 12-24-2016 at 01:17 AM.
#14
I used to have Firestone lifetime alignment on one of my Camrys that was always coming out of alignment.
However, I've not done any major front end suspension repairs and the last time I went to Firestone they quoted me $1,500 for front end work and couldn't do the alignment. Same with pep boys, $1,200.
It's the type of **** that makes me want to drive new cars because it's a headache sometimes. And the thing is, though the suspension is worn and old, it still drives smooth, just the steering is a bit loose.
I just need to find another good Asian Japanese vehicle repair shop...but where I live now is mainly Kurdish and Mexican repair shops. Not that nationality matters, but I prefer places that work on specific makes of cars.
However, I've not done any major front end suspension repairs and the last time I went to Firestone they quoted me $1,500 for front end work and couldn't do the alignment. Same with pep boys, $1,200.
It's the type of **** that makes me want to drive new cars because it's a headache sometimes. And the thing is, though the suspension is worn and old, it still drives smooth, just the steering is a bit loose.
I just need to find another good Asian Japanese vehicle repair shop...but where I live now is mainly Kurdish and Mexican repair shops. Not that nationality matters, but I prefer places that work on specific makes of cars.
Last edited by 97_GXE; 12-24-2016 at 11:43 AM.
#15
However, I've not done any major front end suspension repairs and the last time I went to Firestone they quoted me $1,500 for front end work and couldn't do the alignment. Same with pep boys, $1,200.
I just need to find another good Asian Japanese vehicle repair shop...but where I live now is mainly Kurdish and Mexican repair shops. Not that nationality matters, but I prefer places that work on specific makes of cars.
I just need to find another good Asian Japanese vehicle repair shop...but where I live now is mainly Kurdish and Mexican repair shops. Not that nationality matters, but I prefer places that work on specific makes of cars.