peb396

Does anyone know anything about this y-pipe?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA5EYKL...2fe4b0125acb_S


Is this a good product?


Will it throw codes?


Things like that?


I currently have the original y-pipe and headers.

CS_AR

Is your car California for Fed spec?

It looks like a y-pipe that people have purchased on eBay. It won't cause code problems per se. It's the type of cat that you use with any y-pipe that will throw codes.

You are less likely to have a code with the stock cat.

peb396

Fed spec.


I was wondering since the pre-cats were missing.


Is warpspeed the only remaining maker of these? Didn't see in the stillen or catman catalogues...

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

^^^ to the best of my knowledge Warpspeed is only manufacturer that has a well known reputation.

There are number of relative no-name units available on Ebay and Amazon as you've pointed out.

These are NLA from Stillen and Cattman ... Cattman is and has been out of business since 2013/2014 by-the-way.

CS_AR

^^^ Many of us here have been running Warpspeed Y-pipes for years. I will be buying a 2nd one for my 4th, 4th gen sometime this spring.

peb396

Thanks for the info so far...I know that I am getting into this late, but I have had the car since new in '95. Looks like my flex pipe is screwing up so I thought that I might do this y-pipe conversion that I keep hearing/reading about. Anything else that I need to know would be greatly appreciated.


I have been told that changing the headers isn't really a big deal, so those being included don't really matter. What are your thoughts on that?


Also, do I need to change the cat back stuff too?


Thanks in advance for any and all help!

CS_AR

Here's a picture of the WS Y-pipe that I installed 3 years ago. My regrets are having replaced the stock cat with a high-flow. The HF cat worked fine for about the first year or two. Then code P0420 started becoming a regular occurrence. The HF cat is a generic cat that is not for our cars. I'm going to try using a stacked O2sim combination to remedy the P0420 codes. If that does not work, I'll be going back to a stock cat.

The cat back I have on the WS Y-pipe is a glass pack resonator straight pipe package that my son picked up online. It seems to be ok. However, we've gone through a couple of silencers for that setup. They seem to blow out while driving down the highway. The neighbors complain about it being too loud. So I'm looking to go back to a more stock like cat back system from Walker to keep somebody from getting a ticket. Maybe a suitcase muffler will tone it down.

My son also purchased one of the stainless looking headers and pipes sets from eBay for his Civic. After about 6 months, the welds on the head plate welds started breaking down and leaking. So my only experience with the eBay setup is on a Civic and it's not a good one.

peb396

So, I should go with Warpspeed...and probably keep it stock from there back to keep the noise down and to keep from throwing the PO420 codes. Next question is about the O2 sensors...what I have read is that they need to be replaced...is that so and why?


Also, thanks for the info!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the O2 sensors you currently have are good, there is no need to replace them. When I put on my Warpspeed pipe, I re-used the O2 sensors and didn't have any problems with codes.

CS_AR

How many miles do you have on your car?

I try to replace O2 sensors on cars that I have purchased new (and know the history) between 100,000 to 120,000 miles. All used 4th gens that I've purchased have had over 150,000 miles.

So I like to replace the O2 sensors and spark plugs usually within a month after purchasing a used Maxima.

When I replace O2 sensors with 150,000 miles or greater, it improves low end performance for around town town driving. I notice a little more pep after an O2 sensor refresh. Usually mileage will improve because old tired and lazy O2 sensors tend to send a lean signal to the ECU. The ECU responds by sending more fuel to the cylinders that causes a rich mixture condition. That causes the car to burn more fuel and sometimes less than optimal performance.

A new Y-pipe and O2 sensors will surprise you with the performance gain and most likely a mileage improvement.

peb396

275,000...original sensors...no codes are being thrown, but while I am under the car and working in this area anyway...plus, if there are benefits...


Warpspeed has the y-pipe listed as 'out of stock'...I am going to call them but I have read that in the past they could take a while to deliver...how was your delivery experience?


Also, asked earlier about the headers, neither of you mention swapping them so I am thinking changing them isn't worth it?


Thanks again for the info so far!

CS_AR

Delivery in my case was slow. I would call to determine when they can ship an order. When I order my next one, I think I will try to order it one month in advance.

I would search for headers in the 4th gen section to get other opinions on the benefits. When I bought my first Y-pipe, Catman had stopped making them, I don't recall any other option at the time. It looked like many WS Y-pipes were in use and nobody was complaining about fitment issues. So I went with the Y-pipe that everybody else was using. Also note that I had found cooked/clogged cats from an injector leak issue. So replacing the Y-pipe was based on resolving that problem.

Where are you located? Is your car exposed to a lot of road salt?

This month I have pulled 4 CV axles from two of my 4th gens. I can tell you with all certainty that I would rather pull the passenger side CV axle from the car where the pre-cat has been deleted compared to the one with it. It gives you a little more room to work when you don't have a pre-cat to work around.

My personal goals are usually about increasing:

1) reliability, 2) maintainability, 3) and handling ability.

Other people have different priorities where flat out performance is the main goal. I have six cars right now, so my spare time has turned into fleet maintenance. I hope to start a house project by early spring.

maximaxi

probably low quality for $164, not sure I'd trust it.

Magnaflow also makes a y-pipe with pre-cats in it, in both federal and California versions. It has mandrel bends.

As for the o2 sensors, you might as well. With 275k on them, they'll die soon, and you'll have to get under the car again. Use Denso or NTK/NGK brand sensors.

peb396

Just got off the phone with Warpspeed...the y-pipe is back in stock...should have it in two weeks thanks to the holidays. They were pretty cool to talk with. Right now my plans are the Warpspeed y-pipe, new Walker: cat, and the Sound FX muffler. 2 questions...

1) Should I replace that resonator pipe while I am doing this?

and 2) Is there any difference b/t the denso and ntk O2 sensors?

I plan on replacing the O2s just because I am down there and the car has roughly 275k on it (and they are original)...the resonator pipe may make all of the other stuff easier...do they go bad?

Answering a previous question...I am in South Carolina.

CS_AR

I replaced the cat back system shortly after installing the Warpspeed and cat. Once you get started, it may be easier to keep moving to the rear. I guess it depends on how long you want to stay under the car.

As far as O2 sensor brands, that can spur a debate that will go on like one about motor oil.

I started using NGK spark plugs a long time ago and felt that their brand of O2 sensors NTK would also be good. I've never had a problem with either NGK or NTK. I've used Bosch O2 sensors on Ford and GM products without a problem. While I'm sure it is a good product, I just can't see myself installing an AC Delco part on a Nissan.

Get a spray can of PB blaster and soak your exhaust bolts the night before you start. It will be your best friend on that job.

Here's a thread with some Warpspeed installation tips. Notice the bolts are soaked in PB blaster. Also the impact type universal joint made it somewhat easy to remove the y-pipe bolts without breaking anything. I hadn't started using an air impact tool at that point. I found that type of u-joint turns more evenly than the non-impact. You'll see how it came in handy in the thread.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...oval-tips.html

As far as the impact type u-joint that I bought for the y-pipe job, it really comes in handy on jobs like removing the ball joint castle nut. A good tool can make all the difference on some of the more difficult repairs.

peb396

I knew that photo seemed familiar. I have read that thread several times over the years! Thanks for posting that. I knew it was there when install time came and was certainly planning on re-reading it the night before. I even have that link saved in my Maxima favorites.


One question...I was just going to ask when I bought it, but now that I know that I am talking with the author of that thread I'll just ask you...What is this "u-joint"...is that a swivel head or coupling for impact tools? I plan on purchasing impact sockets for this and my next project (new, pretty much all Moog front end...I am following that other thread right now too...already have parts...just not the time)...so tool advice is greatly appreciated right now as well.


My other question is, "Do resonators go bad?" It looks like it is 22 years old. I was thinking of just dropping the unit as a whole and avoiding having to undo the bolts at the Cat. But, you having replaced yours got me to wondering.


As always, thanks for the info and the advice!!! I am trying to have everything ready for the y-pipe when it arrives. I am missing my Max!

maximaxi

You might as well get the resonator. That way, you do it all at once and don't have to go back down there again when it does break.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

The "u-joint" is exactly as you described it. It's a swivel for the socket and allows for an easier extraction of 1 or 2 of the more difficult nuts. It's a must have tool and about $5.

Resonators don't typically go bad, unless they rust out. Where do you live?

CS_AR

Here's a good video that explains the difference between a conventional wobble joint and a swivel ball socket. I tried using a conventional wobble type u-joint and I found the joint would lock and I was applying torque to the joint instead of the bolt.

Impact grade tools are usually the flat black finish. Impact grade tools should be built to hold up under high torque use with an air impact driver. Even before I started using an air impact driver, I found I had less chance of a socket slipping off or rounding off a difficult to remove nut or bolt than a conventional chrome-plated socket. So I use the chrome plated sockets for easy work and the impact grade when the going gets tough with difficult to remove nuts and bolts.


I see Harbor Freight sells a 2 piece universal impact set for $7.99. I think I paid quite a bit more for the Armstrong at NAPA.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-un...set-67920.html

CS_AR

That's right. There are a couple of difficult nuts on the exhaust where the swivel socket makes all the difference.

My son replaced the stock resonator with a cat back system that I think he bought from eBay. The resonator is a glass pack that provides very little sound muffling. It is a straight pipe from the resonator back. It was fun for a short while until the neighbors started complaining. He has to take an alternate route to avoid driving through the neighborhood late at night. His GF didn't like it also.. On an interstate trip over an hour, the constant drone gets old. I need to take it somewhere to get a suitcase muffler or resonator change to tone it down. We had two different silencers on it, but those like to come out on the interstate during a long trip.

It's fun to take it out and make a lot of noise once in a while. But that comes with the risk getting a lot of attention from the sheriff.

CS_AR

When I bought my first Warpspeed I primed and painted it with VHT header paint.

Unfortunately, at that time I didn't think it needed to be cured using the process on the can. So I let it dry in the sun and thought I could cure it on the car through some short heat up and cool down runs. I was wrong on that one. It only partially worked.

I get results with VHT ONLY when I follow the prescribed cleaning, priming, and curing process, which is not always easy to accomplish on a large part.

For my next Warpspeed pipe, I will do my best to follow the prescribed curing process using a torch to heat it up like the guy in this video. I've learned it takes a lot of time and patience to get the product cured so it will last.
I got into a hurry with the first Warpspeed, took some short cuts on the curing process, and now regret it.

peb396

First off, thanks for all of the great info!!! I have ordered the resonator and O2s. The exhaust will be: Warpspeed y-pipe, Walker cat, Walker resonator, Walker Sound FX muffler (the muffler was the cause of this originally then that flex pipe fell apart) and NTK O2 sensors. How does that lineup sound? Still time to change if there are better ideas out there, these parts are on the way, but can be sent back.


I will be picking up my new swivel joints tomorrow.


So, I need to paint the y-pipe? Do I need to paint the rest of this stuff too? I want this to last and to not have to do this again anytime soon, so let me know. Also, where do you purchase the VHT paint?


Thanks again for the info and for the info to come.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

If you're getting the WS SS Y-pipe then you only need to paint the flex pipe section. They are mild steel and are known to rust away over the years. The flex pipe on my WS Y-pipe rusted away so I welded on a SS flex pipe. If the rest of the exhaust setup is mild steel and you live were the roads are highly salted then I advise to use the VHT Exhaust Primer followed with VHT Exhaust Paint. I purchased VHT cans at Autozone.

EDIT: For more details on the VHT ceramic exhaust paint here's a thread were CS_AR and I discussed it when I replaced my CAT back

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...r-muffler.html

peb396

The guy I talked with on the phone, Dallas iirc, said that they changed the flex pipe a while ago to a SS one that is similar in design to the flex pipe at the base of an 18 wheeler where the exhaust turns from under the cab to the stack that runs vertically and ends up above the cab. So, with it being stainless, would I need to paint that?

jholley

iTrader: (13)

With upgrading it from mild steel to SS it won't rust. I would leave the pipe alone. The SS pipes haven't rusted on my 9 year old WS y-pipe.

CS_AR

Agreed.