reallywildstuff

What is the procedure to R&R the negative battery cable?

What pieces do I need to remove to gain access to the cable along its length, including the opposite end from the battery (the block?)

Thank you

CS_AR

Do you need to replace the entire cable or only the end that connects to the battery?

I bought a Nissan cable end from a dealer roughly 6 years ago for under $10. I haven't use it yet but it looks like the connector in the picture. I still have the part# 24340-51E67 and the bag. Basically you remove the old end, clean up the wires, and crimp the new cable connector to the existing cable.

reallywildstuff

"Just the end" - however:

1. Didnt see "Just the end" offered for sale at orderinfinitiparts.com. Complete cable already en route. Didnt want to settle for parts-store replacement end.
2. De-crimping that cable while its installed looks like a super b*tch.
3. The Re-crimped end would always be suspect...a "non-factory" connection. I do happen to own probably the correct "lug crimper" tool but it'd still be amateur hour, working over the battery tray with no spare slack/lead.

So for reliability sake, I was going to replace the whole cable.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

I just replaced mine with a parts store replacement. Have had no problems with it.

CS_AR

At the bottom right corner of the front VC there is an opening between the engine block and the radiator hose. If you look down into that opening you will see a metal plate where the negative cable connects. I call that part the grounding cable plate. I can't remember specifically, but the metal plate connects to the engine or bell housing.

On the 99 model 5-mt, I decided bypass the metal plate and hook the cable directly to the engine where the plate mounts. On that car, I was on a campaign to go direct on things like clutch fluid cables and EGR coolant hoses. So it followed the "go direct" theme for that car. I haven't had any problems with that setup. I later installed a grounding kit that didn't seem to make any difference.

On the 98 model automatic, I kept the grounding plate and just cleaned it up. The theme for the 98 model was to look like new and stay closer to the OEM design -- that is except for bypassing the EGR coolant hose. :-)

reallywildstuff

What method did you employ re: "bending back the (0-guage?) crimps up and away from each of the individually-stranded wires that make up that cable" without buggering them all to hell/slicing your finger off?

What tool did you use to re-crimp the new connector?

Thank you

reallywildstuff

Having the part number in hand is certainly key to finding it on your favorite web site. Still available per orderinfinitparts, however my battery cable already shipped out.

I called Central Houston Nissan - no Nissan dealership in Houston stocks just the connector.

I'm getting tired of running down OEM parts for this 20 year old car.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

I ended up unbolting my negative cable, sanded down the grounding points, cut the old connection off, banged the **** out of the new connection with a hammer/pliers to crimp it, and taped it up with electrical tape. Now that operation took me about 30 mins in the freezing winter last year to complete which is why I jury-rigged the connection. That lasted me through the following summer when I purchased a aftermarket cable with connection already crimped on and installed with no issues.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you are replacing the complete negative battery cable, there is a connection in the center of the cable that bolts to the chassis underneath the battery tray. IIRC, you have to remove the battery tray to access the bolt.

reallywildstuff

Thank you, I see what we're working with now. The engine ground point is covered in leaks from the valve cover so it was "camouflaged" from view.

The lower of the two negative battery cable "bands" split (due to corrosion) - so the post doesn't cinch down tight on the battery terminal. This is "outside specification".