bigd480

I was wondering if any of you have any experience with rear caliper brackets wearing out to the point where they wiggle a little bit.

It's causing an odd groaning sound after my rear pads were replaced, and it is repeatable when we move the caliper while spinning the wheel.

Mechanic suggested replacing the calipers with ones that include the brackets. Just wasn't sure if there were some other potential cause for the wiggle, or if there's a particular manufacture of remanufactured calipers you recommend.

The ones on there now are A1-cardone, about 3 years old, from RockAuto. Amazon has some Febest with the brackets for $130/both shipped.

KP11520

Why? What's stripped? or Loose? Maybe the mounting bolts need to be tightened? Maybe all you need is new bolts? (Stainless with anti-seize compound) The brackets either break or are solid. They don't wobble. But if loose at where they connect, you have the symptoms.

Time to get under there and inspect yourself. Maybe the mechanic is making this a profitable project at your unnecessary expense.

And then maybe not. But you won't know until you see for yourself.

bigd480

Yeah, I thought that was odd too considering the type of metal and thickness. Will see if I can find the torque spec.

I trust them though: they're a suspension and alignment shop and I took them the car to see what suspension components needed to be replaced/refreshed because I felt with my mileage I could use new shocks or whatever and they told me "nope everything still looks good".

Had them replace the pads as an afterthought as they were low and I had OEM pads on hand.

maximaxi

Rear calipers are wear items on these cars anyway, so you might as well replace both rears.

My suggestion for calipers is Cardone Ultra or Napa Total Eclipse. Both are coated to help prevent rust. Napa's coating is black. The Ultra's coating is silver. Napa's reman calipers are done by Cardone, which actually rebuilds them for most companies out there (including Autozone's Duralast calipers)

FanaticMadMax

what do you mean loose on the caliper bracket, is it the bracket mounted on the suspension or the caliper itself feel loose on the bracket? So two different meaning, if the bracket feel loose, then the mounting bolt is not torqued right, if it's the caliper, then possibly the guide or pin is worn out which you should replace whenever you are replacing the brake pads, since the guide pin do wear out due to expansion and contraction of the high braking temp. Those are cheap to replace.

bigd480

Thanks - that's a great idea. The guide pins are likely original, or at least very old.

I don't think it's loose mounting bolts since its probably first thing they'd check with that diagnosis but I will check again when I get under it tomorrow. I think it's it's a 38-52 lbft torque spec.

The pins are readily available at parts stores - worth a shot to try having those replaced first before the entire caliper?

I also got a couple of these to try- would at least replace one mounting bolt:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ABY5FMI

KP11520

Something tells me you haven't been under there and/or are comfortable doing a rear brake job and assessment.

WE can help! here, you'll see how everything bolts together and there isn't any room for slop if everything is tightened. Unless maybe the caliper pins and boots are trashed. Use only Silicone grease when replacing the pins and boots. Go get some popcorn.......

bigd480

thanks for the link! I did finally get under there the other day and both sides move up/down and left/right, unless I fully engage the parking brake (like all the way up).

The mounting bolts all seemed tight and I tried replacing one with that low-freq noise damper which made no difference.

This seems to indicate the issue is possibly with the piston and from what I've read many people have had issues with reman calipers after replacing pads the next time. These are 3 years old and quite rusted so I went ahead and ordered the A1 Cardone Pro (coated) calipers. Have new rotors and hardware as well so hopefully that setup will be good for whatever life the car has left.

bigd480

And yes I've never done a brake job - changed the alternator a couple of times and various maintenance things. My last daily driver went 9 years without needing pads so I never really needed to (lightweight 5-spd and my commute was all freeway except a couple of lights).

KP11520

Good for you!

So when the calipers were done three years ago, were the hoses replaced? If not, I'd do them as well since you have no choice but to bleed the whole system after doing the rebuilt calipers! Good choice BTW!

CS_AR has a thread for a home brake bleeding kit worth building and employing!

Hopefully your new pad set or calipers also supply the the new pins, boots and caliper bracket liners (assorted hardware). Buy a tube of silicone grease for the pins into the brackets and inside the boots and all other metal on metal movement contact areas. Also grease the piston and caliper where it contacts the back of the pads. You'll have quiet brakes that work like a new car again! While there, make sure the cables work as they should for the parking brake.

Good luck!

bigd480

Thanks again for all the info - will get new hoses too. This is a link as to what the A1 Pro's contain for anyone's future reference. They are also a little more than half the price of the NAPA Total Eclipse ($57 vs ~$100):

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....211443&jsn=421

The hardware kit I got just has the retaining springs but no shims - can those be reliably reused?

KP11520

I bought a PowerStop K1168 rotor and pad kit for mine and it came with everything.

Nothing like all new!

bigd480

Just picked up from mechanic, everything seems good as new and parking brake works much better now - think it was weak pistons on the old ones.

bigd480

For anyone's future reference - these were the best prices found on the components:

Amazon
Akebono ACT526 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set $41.32 shipped
DuraGo BR31134 Rear Solid Disc Brake Rotor $43.01 shipped (pair)

RockAuto Price / Core / Total
A-1 CARDONE 19P2001 (19-P2001) Caliper $ 54.79 $ 67.00 1 $ 121.79
A-1 CARDONE 19P2000 (19-P2000) Caliper $ 54.79 $ 67.00 1 $ 121.79
Got shims and hardware from them also

maximaxi

You should've gotten rotors with the coating to stop rust, such as
Centric 120.42059
or
Wagner BD125459E

bigd480

That's a good point- I did get the high-carbon/coated Centric 125.42043 for the fronts since I will likely need to replace those this year.