LIM Fuel Rail Thread Broke
#1
LIM Fuel Rail Thread Broke
Was tightening my fuel rail back down and the front right bolt for the fuel rail no longer has any home, the piece on the lower manifold snapped. Now the front left injector seats in it's oring like it should but the front right side of the fuel rail is only 90% of the way in it's cushion ring. Here's a pic of the side without the bolt and the side properly tightened, can I get away with just tightening back down with the right kind of rtv to seal any leak? Or I could take it apart again and use a nut and bolt, the top of the thread is still there I could use to tighten down this way
Last edited by Violator; 05-19-2017 at 06:48 PM.
#3
Wow, how did you manage to snapped that bolt? Those are 12mm and dont require much torque. Theres 4 rubber gromets that sit onto the lim where the fuel rail sits on, did you lose those?Those rubber cushions for the injectors are suppose to sit flush. Id get another lim and try again.
Last edited by lux97Max; 05-19-2017 at 11:23 PM.
#4
^ +1
Pick up another LIM at a JY.
How did you break a bolt that only requires 15 to 20 ft/lb of torque? I suggest you follow the torque specs within the FSM.
Pick up another LIM at a JY.
How did you break a bolt that only requires 15 to 20 ft/lb of torque? I suggest you follow the torque specs within the FSM.
Last edited by jholley; 05-20-2017 at 07:06 AM.
#5
I tried a nut and bolt and washers, but the washers slanted and tightened down the front making the injector sit uneven and slant forwards
I am CALI, if I order a FED spec LIM would I run into an CELs? I know the fed specs are better power wise
Last edited by Violator; 05-20-2017 at 12:43 PM.
#6
You really dont need to be precise for torque on those 4 bolts. just make sure there tight not super tight. As far as cel, you might get a code for swirly valve but im not 100% sure, But try to T off any vaccum lines. Your probably better off with fed spec lim, get rid off all that extra junk.
#7
FED spec manifold on its way, I'll now be fully swapped from Cali spec hopefully get some sort of gains out of it in the process. Just want a running car again this all started by not lubing the injectors right when I put them in
#8
Am I seeing the top part of that bolt without threading?
That's like using a wedge to split firewood. Made of cast steel. (even less forgiving)
DON'T reuse that bolt next time and expect different results.
I hope I'm just seeing things! LOL
Good luck!
That's like using a wedge to split firewood. Made of cast steel. (even less forgiving)
DON'T reuse that bolt next time and expect different results.
I hope I'm just seeing things! LOL
Good luck!
#9
Not the bolt I used when it broke that's an old throttle body bolt I chose if a nut was going to work securing it down but it didn't tighten down evenly so I chose to replace it, I still have the original bolt
#13
i purchased them from the ebay link you or CS_AR provided, worked like a charm i heated up the pintle caps in some water on the stove to get them on and noticed the difference with the way i lubed the injecters this time they practically slid right in