BobMax

My parking brake is not holding. I tightened it to the end of the adjuster limit and it got better, but not good enough to meet inspection standards here (put car in gear, try to reasonably accelerate, car should sit still).

I know the rear pads and rotors are important to this process and these are looking rough, so I will be doing them.

Here's my question: How common is cable stretch on these? Is it likely I need cables anyway? Or is it usually just the pads or something with the caliper causing the issue... and the cables don't stretch? (Yea, I will get in there, do the rotors/pads and check again... but I might need to order the cables and this is a rush job, so I am trying to figure it out before I start).

Thanks,

jholley

iTrader: (13)

With your rotors looking bad most likely one or both of your calipers are seized. If a piston is seized or the solenoid within the caliper is broken the parking brake cables cannot tighten up.

The calipers are easier to replace than the cables. If it is a seized cable then install Nissan OEM cables. The Dorman cables I installed only lasted 3 years. After they snapped last month I installed the higher quality OEM cables on both sides.

After you take the rear wheels off for inspection report back here and note if the cables or calipers are seized.

BobMax

So, I replaced the rotors, pads, and wheel cyls. Made sure the pin in the pad was in a slot on the piston.

Cables move freely with the lever pull.

I still have to take up the adjuster all the way to the end limit to get a tight pull. It will hold the car on a hill, but it won't pass the inspection test - It groans a bit but it still moves under light acceleration. It does sound like the right-rear is making the groan so that one is holding more, or less, than the left side :-)

I took the brakes for a ride with a lot of brake use to break them in just in case there might be a slight pad to rotor mismatch and it helped to get me where I am now but I think that's done improving things.

So... cables stretched? Is there any other adjustment or trick? How bad is the cable replacement job?

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Check how your cables are mounted onto the calipers. The cables attach onto the calipers lever then mount onto a bracket.

Properly set cables should slide over the lever first then get mounted onto the bracket with clips. The clips are part 36451D is this diagram




The OEM cables are too thick to stretch. They're either not mounted correctly onto the caliper or the caliper's solenoid isn't functioning with the pushing rod to push the piston out. Another possibility is you have air trapped in rear calipers or their hoses. When's the last time you bled the rear calipers?

EDIT:

If you cables do need replacement check out the diagram. Each rear cable has 2 mounting brackets that bolt onto the trailing arms that are easy to reach. The bracket further towards the cable divider is hidden beneath the B-pipe exhaust shield. The b-pipe exhaust shield has one bolt connecting it to the CAT exhaust shield that needs removal. The CAT exhaust shield can be bent then slid around the CAT for removal. After removing the CAT shield slide the b-pipe shield over the CAT and you'll see the cable brackets. The b-pipe exhaust shield cannot be bent for removal. It can only be slid over the CAT or removed after dropping the entire b-pipe exhaust.

Wear protective goggles and dust masks for the excessive rust.

BobMax

Thanks... the current clips are on place and the brackets all look good. Also, I bled the rears when I (just) replaced the wheel cyls. Everything moves, I'm just not getting enough pull. As I mentioned, the I could try that again but I don't think there's air in there.

I guess I will try new cables. I can't figure what else to do.

Thanks for the shield tips. is the B-pipe the one that's right after the cat, or before it?

One other question... how does the piston "screw" out? I know you have to screw it back in if you are changing old pads, so it clearly moves, but with that pin on the back of the pad in the slot on the piston, it looks like it can't turn. So how does it get extended?

Rit

iTrader: (3)

The is a special square tool that attaches to a 3/8" drive ratchet. They are available for about $10 at most auto parts stores. You have to turn in the rear piston, and I forget the direction. Try clockwise, and if it comes out instead of in, then turn in the other direction. It may be hlepful to hit the piston with a lubricant such as PB Blaster first.

CS_AR

Yep. I bought this Lisle Disc Brake Piston Tool (Part No. 28600) from AdvanceAuto several years ago. It works.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Being a very tight fit between the pads and piston it only gets pushed out less than 1/8" to lock the discs. The piston not only can screw onto that push rod but also gets pushed directly out. The fluid pushes it out when applying the brakes. The solenoid and push rod push it while tightening the cable.

The B-pipe is the resonator located between the CAT and rear muffler.


Hope you finish this projected you started early last year

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...y-stretch.html

Here's more tips on replacing those cables

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ake-cable.html

The Search function does it's job.

BobMax

I'm familiar with standard caliper operation, but not these integrated parking brake types.

So the piston rotates as it is pushed by the fluid? How can it turn with the slot in the head of the piston held in place by the pin on the back of the brake pad?

jholley

iTrader: (13)

The piston is screwed onto the wide coarse push rod (part 16), The push rod isn't permanently seated within the caliper but is nearly all surrounded by brake fluid from it's O-ring (part 15) forward. Both the brake fluid and the parking brake solenoid (part 6) push the piston STRAIGHT OUT of the caliper.

You need to remove the rear wheels and test both rear calipers and their cables further.

BobMax

Ah, that makes more sense. Unfortunately the car went back to its vacation home... I will pick back up on the testing when it returns in January. I only get to work on this one every six months.