Urgent question : control arm
#1
Urgent question : control arm
When i was trying to compress the large bushing into place i was an idiot and tried tightening the bolt to squeeze the plate up and now the hole is stripped out...
my guess is im going to have to take it to get re-tapped?
i have a mavis tire about a 1/4 mile from where the car is( back out of driveway, make a left, a right, another right, and im in their parking lot) guybsays he can retap if i cant get there...
My question is, is it safe to drive the car this short distance without the single bolt...( unfortunately it is on the side where there os only one bolt so it lacks support
.
Again can someone please tell me if this is safe to make it to the garage
my guess is im going to have to take it to get re-tapped?
i have a mavis tire about a 1/4 mile from where the car is( back out of driveway, make a left, a right, another right, and im in their parking lot) guybsays he can retap if i cant get there...
My question is, is it safe to drive the car this short distance without the single bolt...( unfortunately it is on the side where there os only one bolt so it lacks support
.
Again can someone please tell me if this is safe to make it to the garage
#2
Is the bolt hole in the car still good, or is that stripped as well?
If it's not stripped, I would get a high quality bolt from the hardware store. I might also replace that one soon after with one from a junkyard maxima.
If the bolt hole in the car is partly stripped, I would buu a tap from the hardware store. Then I would re tap the hole. Exactly the same way as the guys at the shop would.
On the other hand, if the bolt hole is stripped as well, the solution is to drill and tap the hole for a larger diameter bolt . Information is available on line regarding which size drill to use before you tap to the larger size.
If it's not stripped, I would get a high quality bolt from the hardware store. I might also replace that one soon after with one from a junkyard maxima.
If the bolt hole in the car is partly stripped, I would buu a tap from the hardware store. Then I would re tap the hole. Exactly the same way as the guys at the shop would.
On the other hand, if the bolt hole is stripped as well, the solution is to drill and tap the hole for a larger diameter bolt . Information is available on line regarding which size drill to use before you tap to the larger size.
Last edited by JvG; 07-02-2017 at 04:36 PM. Reason: To add more information
#3
Is the bolt hole in the car still good, or is that stripped as well?
If it's not stripped, I would get a high quality bolt from the hardware store. I might also replace that one soon after with one from a junkyard maxima.
If the bolt hole in the car is partly stripped, I would buu a tap from the hardware store. Then I would re tap the hole. Exactly the same way as the guys at the shop would.
On the other hand, if the bolt hole is stripped as well, the solution is to drill and tap the hole for a larger diameter bolt . Information is available on line regarding which size drill to use before you tap to the larger size.
If it's not stripped, I would get a high quality bolt from the hardware store. I might also replace that one soon after with one from a junkyard maxima.
If the bolt hole in the car is partly stripped, I would buu a tap from the hardware store. Then I would re tap the hole. Exactly the same way as the guys at the shop would.
On the other hand, if the bolt hole is stripped as well, the solution is to drill and tap the hole for a larger diameter bolt . Information is available on line regarding which size drill to use before you tap to the larger size.
Considering i have to go and get an alignment anyway...i might as well let them do it ..
But again is it safe ? Its a really short distance ..
But i also dont want to ruin all of the work i just did . please let me know.....
I can rent a car dolly and back out of the driveway and pull on to the dolly and tow it there
Im just paranoid when i go to lower the car off the jacks , everything will get messed up
#4
I can't picture what you are doing.
If it's a legitimate safety concern, tow it.
Question: did you lubricate the rubber bushing
before you tightened that bolt?
I use dishwashing liquid for that kind of thing.
Nice and slippery. Disolves during the next rainstorm .
If it's a legitimate safety concern, tow it.
Question: did you lubricate the rubber bushing
before you tightened that bolt?
I use dishwashing liquid for that kind of thing.
Nice and slippery. Disolves during the next rainstorm .
#5
I wouldn't trust a Helicoil to have enough strength to trust it's integrity to repair the threads. I'd use and trust a "TimeSert" thread repair kit though. Not cheap, but truly the best way to repair the threads you need to be strong. Use red thread lock on the TimeSert insert to the stripped out piece to lock in the marry.
Hope this helps!
#6
Love the "fun time lube" story. Very creative.
One time one of our members needed a grease to lube a front main seal. Something which disolves in oil, and has greasy properties below room temperature. Our member had no car grease in the home. But I knew they loved bacon. I asked if they kept bacon grease in the fridge. So that's what they used.
I have also used a floor jack for times I wished to force something into place from below.
Oh the tricks of the trade we learn about, or invent as we go along.
One time one of our members needed a grease to lube a front main seal. Something which disolves in oil, and has greasy properties below room temperature. Our member had no car grease in the home. But I knew they loved bacon. I asked if they kept bacon grease in the fridge. So that's what they used.
I have also used a floor jack for times I wished to force something into place from below.
Oh the tricks of the trade we learn about, or invent as we go along.
#7
going to see if guy from mavis will come by to fix it instead of me driving....doubtful though
#8
Here's a video about using "TimeSert" inserts. There's a bunch of videos on YT.
It's really easy to do and it works great. They sell the kit with 5 inserts, but they may not be long enough, so if not, buy the appropriate length ones too.
When you tap the drilled hole, I'd use cutting oil and after you finish tapping, brake cleaner to remove all oil residue. In the video, he shows using RED thread locker when threading in the insert. The thread locker won't be as effective if there's oil in there, so brake cleaner is a must.
You don't need anybody to install this. All you need is a drill and a Tap Handle and brake cleaner and RED thread locker. The kit is expensive, but nothing works as good for thread repair. Or, you can do the same drill and tap and go to the next size up bolt. But sometimes using a larger girth bolt can create other problems. I prefer to keep everything consistent.
Oh yeah.... NEW BOLT too. LOL
It's really easy to do and it works great. They sell the kit with 5 inserts, but they may not be long enough, so if not, buy the appropriate length ones too.
When you tap the drilled hole, I'd use cutting oil and after you finish tapping, brake cleaner to remove all oil residue. In the video, he shows using RED thread locker when threading in the insert. The thread locker won't be as effective if there's oil in there, so brake cleaner is a must.
You don't need anybody to install this. All you need is a drill and a Tap Handle and brake cleaner and RED thread locker. The kit is expensive, but nothing works as good for thread repair. Or, you can do the same drill and tap and go to the next size up bolt. But sometimes using a larger girth bolt can create other problems. I prefer to keep everything consistent.
Oh yeah.... NEW BOLT too. LOL
#9
Time Sert sounds like a good idea. I'm missing one of the bolts for my crossmember because the threads in the hole are stripped. I picked up a couple new bolts from my local Courtesy Nissan and promptly destroyed the threads on both of them upon installation.
#10
Hindsight is always 20/20.
What I would have done is to lube the rubber part.
I have been situations where it's tempting to force a bolt in which can only grab by a few threads. This sometimes causes stripped bolt situations.
One solution is to get another bolt which is perhaps 1/2 to 1 inch longer. One which can grab all the threads. That bolt is only used as a tool. I put a stack of washers on the bolt. Then I can force a part into place without stripping the hole. As the part comes closer to where it should be, remove that bolt. Remove a few washers. Then tighten some more. Then remove that bolt. Install the original bolt.
What I would have done is to lube the rubber part.
I have been situations where it's tempting to force a bolt in which can only grab by a few threads. This sometimes causes stripped bolt situations.
One solution is to get another bolt which is perhaps 1/2 to 1 inch longer. One which can grab all the threads. That bolt is only used as a tool. I put a stack of washers on the bolt. Then I can force a part into place without stripping the hole. As the part comes closer to where it should be, remove that bolt. Remove a few washers. Then tighten some more. Then remove that bolt. Install the original bolt.
#11
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
surprisingly the manager at mavis leant me a tap to use no charge so i wouldnt have to even risk driving the car ( seemed like a real scrooge at first but turned out to be a good guy).
Now heres where the problem arouse .
the tap he leant me was an M14x1.25 tap.
Now trying to find this bolt in america is near impossible ... I called about 22 places (no exaggeration) looking for an M14x1.25 no one could even come close .
So when i returned the tap i mentioned how much trouble i was having finding an M14x1.25 bolt to fit the newly threaded hole . he went to his trusty mechanics coffee can and dumped out an assortment of old nuts and bolts . He pulled out a bolt about an inch and a half with a half inch thick nut that fit around the bolt like a washer. I got home excited to finally get the car back together , tried to thread the bolt in ...no luck the bolt turned out to be M14x1.5. I was frustrated but knew i had to do something.... So i soaped up the bushing like suggested and put the mounting pate against it and jacked up on it slowly tightening the other 2 bolts, once the other 2 were completely in i took extra car placing the jack in a spot to get the unbolted side of the mounting plate up flush with enough room to fit a ratchet. Once it was there i just said f*** it and cranked the bolt and nut combo in as carefully as i could...i felt it get tight and was so relieved that it was tight against the plate, and the control arm was finally mounted!
Looks stupid but you cant argue with results
thanks again for the soap suggestion ....that sucker slipped right into place
surprisingly the manager at mavis leant me a tap to use no charge so i wouldnt have to even risk driving the car ( seemed like a real scrooge at first but turned out to be a good guy).
Now heres where the problem arouse .
the tap he leant me was an M14x1.25 tap.
Now trying to find this bolt in america is near impossible ... I called about 22 places (no exaggeration) looking for an M14x1.25 no one could even come close .
So when i returned the tap i mentioned how much trouble i was having finding an M14x1.25 bolt to fit the newly threaded hole . he went to his trusty mechanics coffee can and dumped out an assortment of old nuts and bolts . He pulled out a bolt about an inch and a half with a half inch thick nut that fit around the bolt like a washer. I got home excited to finally get the car back together , tried to thread the bolt in ...no luck the bolt turned out to be M14x1.5. I was frustrated but knew i had to do something.... So i soaped up the bushing like suggested and put the mounting pate against it and jacked up on it slowly tightening the other 2 bolts, once the other 2 were completely in i took extra car placing the jack in a spot to get the unbolted side of the mounting plate up flush with enough room to fit a ratchet. Once it was there i just said f*** it and cranked the bolt and nut combo in as carefully as i could...i felt it get tight and was so relieved that it was tight against the plate, and the control arm was finally mounted!
Looks stupid but you cant argue with results
thanks again for the soap suggestion ....that sucker slipped right into place