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In sizing up the activities required to replace the 97 model's clutch, should I just pull the engine instead of trying to drop the transmission under the car?
Decision Factors
1) I already have an engine hoist. No need to rent or borrow a cherry picker.
2) The 99 model received a new clutch when the engine was out for a swap back in 2014. It looks easy with the engine out of the car.
3) While I have a couple of floor jacks, I do not have a transmission jack or attachment. So I would need to buy an adaptor for my current floor jack for a transmission.
4) To have the cross-member and connecting mounts out of the car and the transmission mount disconnected, I suspect I would need to use the engine hoist to secure the engine during the operation anyway. I've done this part before.
5) I can reseal the upper oil pan and take care of any other seal issues while the engine is out of the car so much easier than doing it when the engine in the car.
My car has 210k on it. Bought it at 100k. I don't know if the clutch is original, or replaced. My miles were mostly highway. I know that I will be facing this issue eventually.
I had a 2003 Toyota Corolla un expectedly come into my life this winter. They have issues with stuck piston rings and burned valves. Factory defect, toyota fixed it later. I was doing a chemical treatment for someone in my home garage. Rather than fix the problem, the engine lost almost all compression and wouldn't even start.
I felt that I could overhaul the engine, so I bought the car cheap. I thought I could lift the engine out seperatly. I was mistaken. They come out as a unit. This was my first experience doing this with a fwd car. The Corolla engine and transmission is crammed into the engine compartment much more tightly than the engines are in the Maxima.
I lifted both the engine and 5 speed stick transmission as a unit, using the engine hoist. I did this all by myself.
I had a couple of 4 wheel dollies bought at harbor freight. So I put the engine on one, still supported by the chain from the hoist. Then I unbolted the transmission, nice and easy. It went on one of the dollies.
I bolted the flywheel to a 2×4 to keep it from turning. Then I removed the flywheel-to-crank bolts.
Then I attached the engine to an engine stand.
The transmission stayed on the cart till later.
When the time came, I replaced the output shaft seals. Replacing the clutch was super easy. But bolting the transmission back on was difficult, because I did not have an assistant.
I cleaned the nice, empty engine compartment, and took care of some stuff while I was in there anyway. Again, nice and easy.
Now on the Maxima, removing engine and transmission would probably be easier.
You could do anything you like to the engine.
Imagine how easy the water pump would be.
Replace that while you are in there anyway. Same for the front crank seal, and probably the rms as well. Might as well remove the uim to deal with the injectors, the egr pipe, and all that fun stuff. Oh yes, why not the valve covers as well.
All in all, while removing the engine and trans as a unit seems like a pita, it makes life simpler for doing the mid life refresh you do.
Last edited by JvG; 07-10-2017 at 12:25 PM.
Reason: To add more information
For the amount of work you're looking to put into this, I'm thinking you actually bought it for yourself and just can't find a way to tell us you're hoarding 4th Gens because they have less rust than ours.
IDK, pulling a transverse V6 with the transmission still attached is asking for trouble, especially if the team doing it has never done it before. And you need several guys or there will be damage. Maybe even still.
JvG covered a lot of good reasons if it's intended to do them soon. But if they're not on the priority list, I'd probably do it from underneath. Somebody needs to buy you a Low Lift Transmission Jack (Harbor Freight has two $100 and $160). Ya know.... Like the car's owner?
While I respect your passion! Just know it's worth a pretty high price when outside of your repair responsibility circle. And if it's just consulting, the price is even higher! LOL Just like IT.
Ten deep breaths and think clearly. LOL You're a nice guy Craig. Take care of you too though!
With your setup Craig, that sounds like your best bet. I replaced my clutch by dropping the trans. But I already had a transmission jack from doing a swap on my mom's car. Plus I did the project on the weekend at the shop at work where they fix semi trucks, so I had access to some heavy duty, high lift, jacks and jack stands. I had the Max a couple feet off the ground and supported the engine from above with a large hoist attached to an I-beam in the ceiling. If I do a similar project again at home, I will likely buy a cherry picker and engine stand, pull everything out the top, clean / repair and reinstall.
This (obviously) is not my Maxima, but this is where and how I replaced the clutch. Pictured is my mother's old Grand Am which we finally sold and I let her drive my Maxima for a year or so until she got another car.
CS_AR is a really nice guy, and a perfectionist as well.
KP, I can relate very well with what you are saying.
My son is 32 years old. He bought only one car in his life, and I ended up replacing the engine in it, mostly all by mt self, with little help from him.
I have given him two of my old Nissan pickups. I bought him a 1991 VW Passat as a high school graduation present in 2003. He wrecked it a year later, not his fault though.
He has no interest in learning how to maintain or repair them. He recently told me, quote
"I decided a long time ago, that I want nothing to do with any of this."
He does not have a job which pays well enough for car payments, or mechanic bills.
I'm tired of dealing with this.
While he could have learned to be self sufficient regarding car maintenance and repair during the past 16 years he has been driving, he has willfully refused to do so.
I have a climate controlled garage, a respectable set of tools, and adequate light. I'm patient, and I know my stuff.
He has yet to realize that the basic choices involving car ownership come down to
1. New car payments ones whole life
2. Used car payments and mechanic bills
3 old cheap unreliable cars and high mechanic bills
4 public transportation Uber or taxies.
5. Drive a very reliable old car anywhere and everywhere we choose. By getting darn good at
did car repair.
I picked choice 5 about 45 years ago. Works for me.
My son has benefitted from all the work I did to make the vehicles reliable. His current truck has 270k on it. Nissan Hardbody trucks are very tough.
CS_AR, I hope that those you love are learning as much from you as us forum members are.
I also hope that they are not taking advantage of you.
Last edited by JvG; 07-10-2017 at 04:22 PM.
Reason: Spell check
I am putting myself up for adoption. (Hint Hint) LOL Despite being a similar age! I think Craig would be adopted with a garage setup like that as well!
I couldn't pick a nicer family!
In Craig's defense, the car is one of his son's good friends and they do have a real interest in cars and repairs and modding.
But I feel for you! My whole family is twisted and never takes interest in so many gifts that surrounded them! And hence thrived on self sabotage via all the wrong small choices becoming cumulative.
All you can do is keep your compass true! (and adopt us) LOL
Peace Brother 4th Gen! There is a plan. However, we are not privy to it!
Just my 2 cents, I changed my tranny and clutch with engine still in the car. Used engine hoist to support engine while i loosened the crossmember and then used tranny jack to hold tranny while unbolting it. Had a friend help me slide the tranny off shaft. Took me 4 hours start to finish, and it was my first time removing a tranny and replacing clutch.
Clutch suggestions needed. I can't find another ACT Perfection clutch like the one I used in the 99 model.
Just buried this week and needing to clean out the garage from the past two major A32 projects before I start yet another one.
Right now I'm trying to dig out my pressure washer from (like the one in the picture) to use with a pistol sized sprayer head to blast away all the grease and mud build up before I start.
I seriously need a metal building like this and one of those lifts from KP's post.
Honestly, I can take lessons from my son and his buds. They have or currently work as auto repair professionals. Also, they work incredibly fast and ususally have some major repair job going on the side for somebody. I'm the amature in the group.
Clutch suggestions needed. I can't find another ACT Perfection clutch like the one I used in the 99 model.
Just buried this week and needing to clean out the garage from the past two major A32 projects before I start yet another one.
Right now I'm trying to dig out my pressure washer from (like the one in the picture) to use with a pistol sized sprayer head to blast away all the grease and mud build up before I start.
I seriously need a metal building like this and one of those lifts from KP's post.
Honestly, I can take lessons from my son and his buds. They have or currently work as auto repair professionals. Also, they work incredibly fast and ususally have some major repair job going on the side for somebody. I'm the amature in the group.
Brand : eCLUTCHMASTER
Manufacture Part Number : EC-51021HP1-EXE-MAX
Surface Finish : CAST IRON, CERAMIC
Torque : 266 lb/ft
Horse Power : 275HP
Warranty : Yes
Country of Manufacture : United States
It is an Exedy, i offered them $100 and they accepted very good deal free shipping to.
If the clutch kit above is an Exedy Stage 1, you'll be fine! But since the owner is young and will hit shifts hard, like a bird (chirp chirp) (I would), have you thought about a 5th Gen OEM clutch kit or the equivalent? Holds better when engaged but still feels like what's in there now! (higher torque rating) Also see what LUK has to offer. Some of my motorhead friends always bring them up as to NOT be overlooked.
We only need to lift your garage second story and above 5 feet for a lift to be used fully. 13 feet with a Ridgeline on it, should be enough. (assuming you have an 8 foot ceiling now)
Brand : eCLUTCHMASTER
Manufacture Part Number : EC-51021HP1-EXE-MAX
Surface Finish : CAST IRON, CERAMIC
Torque : 266 lb/ft
Horse Power : 275HP
Warranty : Yes
Country of Manufacture : United States
It is an Exedy, i offered them $100 and they accepted very good deal free shipping to.
This afternoon I removed the CV axles. Although the boots were in good condition, the axle bearings are dry and noisy. One side came apart as I was removing it. It's a good thing that I have some spare axles on hand.
The end links are shot. This one separated from the ball joint once I released the knuckle to remove the CV axle.
The ball joint boots are cracked open. I suspect the ball joints are also worn out.
The rack boots look to be in good condition. The outer tie rods seem ok, although they could use some grease. I can use a grease needle on those.
Glad to see you didn't waste your time removing the engine! I had to do the rear main seal and upper oil pan on my car a few months back, and I don't think removing the engine would have helped one bit. Getting access to the upper pan was not a problem at all.
As for clutches, I've had an OEM Nissan 2000/2001 DE-K clutch in my car with a 3.5 swap for a few years now and it holds 250 wtq no problem. Unless you're planning on making serious power I don't see a need for an aftermarket/upgraded clutch.
Also, let us know what you do with your flywheel bolts. I reused mine, but the ones I just used for my BMW are single use only, and it made me wonder if I shouldn't have reused the ones for my Infiniti. I don't remember either of my manuals saying anything about it, but I could have overlooked something.
Also, let us know what you do with your flywheel bolts. I reused mine, but the ones I just used for my BMW are single use only, and it made me wonder if I shouldn't have reused the ones for my Infiniti. I don't remember either of my manuals saying anything about it, but I could have overlooked something.
I'm planning to reuse the originals also. We reused the originals on the 99 model and that worked out without issue. In fact, I don't think the flywheel was turned then a new clutch was installed during the engine swap. The old clutch wasn't bad so the flywheel must have been ok. I really never got to see what the flywheel was like since I had a shop do the swap. It has been running fine for going on 4 years now.
I got the flywheel back from the NAPA machine shop today. Each time I do a upper oil pan / half moon job, I get a little better. I want to get the transmission mounted before I go into the upper oil pan.
Here's a picture. Hopefully enough parts will arrive to return to project this weekend.
What? No Butter? No Peanut Butter and Jelly? No Nothing?
Now for cleaning it? LOL If it really works, why not?
Do you need to replace it? How far was the clutch along before replacing? If anything occurred that could cause any play or wear, definitely. Truthfully, I would while I was in there even if it's fine along with the flywheel bolts. Nissan bolts would most likely be cost prohibitive, but a good hardware store would hopefully have the right hardened equivalent for way more reasonable.
I would compare the existing bushing to the new one in the clutch kit. As long as the existing one is not all buggered out, just call it good. Put some hi temp grade in there. I have used axle grease.
In case you nred to remove the bushing, find a drift or something which barely slides into the bushing.
Fill the hole with grease or peanut butter. Then tap the drift into the hole. The greasy goodness should remove the bushing. I've been able to do this on another car.
^^ Interesting. I see several references to peanut butter around at different car clubs. The old bushing looks fine. The old clutch wasn't worn all that bad. I think the car's problems were more from the previous owner enlistment of people who seemed to be doing more damage than repairs.
We could have our own "original recipe" for bushing removal.
Some tools and substances from the kitchen also do well in the garage.
I've noticed that Dawn liquid dishwashing detergent cleans motor oil and grease well enough afterwards to cook food in containers or with kitchen tools which I have used them in the garage earlier in the day.
Last edited by JvG; 07-23-2017 at 08:26 PM.
Reason: Sp
The new clutch is in. This evening I took it for the first test drive. With any new clutch, you break in period to let the new materials settle in.
This job consisted of the following items:
New ACT Perfection Clutch - Purchased from Advance Auto as the CarQuest brand. This is my 2nd ACT Perfection Clutch from Advance. I am still running one in the 99 model without issue.
New National Bearing - While I really like the ACT Perfection clutch and pressure plate, I thought the bearing had a less than perfectly smooth feel. So I kept the clutch and purchased a National bearing. That National bearing is as smooth as silk.
New CV Axles - Import Direct/Trackmotive + a new GSP that I had left over from another project with new National seals.
New ES Poly anti-sway bar bushings
New Prothane end link bushings
New MOOG problem solver end links.
New National front and rear main seals.
New FelPro half moons.
New Power Steering Belt
New Throttle Body / Air Box Rubber Boot
New fuel hose and fuel filter.
New NGK V-Power Spark Plugs
So it runs good and drives now.
Next week it gets a new EVAP canister, Knock Sensor and Harness.
I have two 4th gens (I'm not deliberately collecting! And they both have rust in the 1/4 panels and rad support).
99 Gxe 5 speed (california) 210k (A friend gave this car to me, and I then gave it to my son. He just went away to college last week and he gave the car back to me! Now I'm going to fix and give to my daughter, and then my grandson ;o)
98 Se Auto (fed spec) 105k (My daily driver ;o. Awesome factory bose stereo!)
Both cars in great overall condition. interior like new etc. 1/4 panels some rust, and radiator support rust too. (We fixed the 99 radiator support / replaced with structural angle iron. I'm a welder/fabricator).
The 99 needs new clutch. I bought a South Bend Stage 1 kit. Comes with excedy disc, throw out bearing, pilot bushing and alignment tool. I wasn't looking forward to installing but I'm encouraged after reading this thread. I did a clutch job on my VW Beetle TDI a while back. Can't possibly be worse than that!
Thanks CS AR for starting this thread and the details too.
I have a harbour freight nearby. I'll pick up the trans jack soon.
I have two 4th gens (I'm not deliberately collecting! And they both have rust in the 1/4 panels and rad support).
99 Gxe 5 speed (california) 210k (A friend gave this car to me, and I then gave it to my son. He just went away to college last week and he gave the car back to me! Now I'm going to fix and give to my daughter, and then my grandson ;o)
98 Se Auto (fed spec) 105k (My daily driver ;o. Awesome factory bose stereo!)
Both cars in great overall condition. interior like new etc. 1/4 panels some rust, and radiator support rust too. (We fixed the 99 radiator support / replaced with structural angle iron. I'm a welder/fabricator).
The 99 needs new clutch. I bought a South Bend Stage 1 kit. Comes with excedy disc, throw out bearing, pilot bushing and alignment tool. I wasn't looking forward to installing but I'm encouraged after reading this thread. I did a clutch job on my VW Beetle TDI a while back. Can't possibly be worse than that!
Thanks CS AR for starting this thread and the details too.
I have a harbour freight nearby. I'll pick up the trans jack soon.
The dog inspecting and approving the excedy disc!
If you are around some parts stores that carry the National brand of throw out bearing, ask to see one and give it a spin for comparison purposes. I looked at every store's brand of clutch kit and found ALL of the throw out bearings had a slightly gritty feel that made me nervous. I only got comfortable with it after I decided to just use a National and toss the kit throw out bearing.
If you are around some parts stores that carry the National brand of throw out bearing, ask to see one and give it a spin for comparison purposes. I looked at every store's brand of clutch kit and found ALL of the throw out bearings had a slightly gritty feel that made me nervous. I only got comfortable with it after I decided to just use a National and toss the kit throw out bearing.
Thanks for the advice, I'll check it out.
Do you have to pull off both control arms to remove the axles? Or just separate the ball joints? I replaced the struts and put new moog control arms / sway bar linkage / tie rod ends on this car last year, I recall it was pretty easy. Just wondering what parts need to be removed in sequence to get the axles / trans out.
Do you have to pull off both control arms to remove the axles? Or just separate the ball joints? I replaced the struts and put new moog control arms / sway bar linkage / tie rod ends on this car last year, I recall it was pretty easy. Just wondering what parts need to be removed in sequence to get the axles / trans out.
Thanks
I don't remove the LCAs or ball joints or loosen tie rod ends to remove the axles. I just remove the two bolts that run through the strut and upper knuckle to tilt the knuckle and hub out of the way. Sometimes you need to move the steering wheel to provide enough slack so the axle can clear the knuckle.
You might want to consider a Stainless Steel braided clutch line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder. I used the line in the link on the 99 model to eliminate the rubber flex line.
It definitely gave it a more direct feel. This can be an enhancement for the 97.
07-10-2017, 08:45 AM
