ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

So here's what's happening.

I start the car, don't let it warm up and shift into gear.
1) Stall once i shift into gear
2) Won't go into gear (not the shfit **** itself, but seems like the tranny is not being engaged somehow) for about 3-5 sec, and then stall once it goes into gear
3) Won't go into gear(same thing, won't go into first, seems like its still in neutral) unless i press on the gas and goes into gear. But once i stop, it'll try to stall and do the same thing
4) Will go into gear and drive but does not seem to be in first gear, the pedal is to the floor but won't rev high but will eventually go over 3k rpm very slowly.

But if i warm up the car, its much better, but sometimes it'll still not go into gear when its warm. Like today when i was driving to work, engine is warm, but at the light when i stopped, it wasn't in gear. I noticed it because once i let go to the brake, it wasn't rolling forward, i tapped the gas, went forward a lil. n when i let go tof the brake now, it was rolling forward.

I dont think its the MAF since it goes over 3k rpm. I'm not sure what it is nemore.

Fuel filter changed, cleaned air filter, put fuel injector in, tranny fluid is less than 30k. Engine oil is less than 5k. I'm not sure whats wrong.....i need help before i start changing parts on the car. Should i change the iacv first??

I really need help at this point since i don't want to get another car....

REMEMBER THAT THERE ARE NO CODES BEING THROWN AT THIS POINT

Maxtank

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like your tranny took a ****?

5 Spd Swap

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

but everything works fine when its warm...really warm...after like 10 min of driving..which i do'nt get.....shifts fine, acts fine....everything is fine.....

when i talked about me driving the car to work n did that..it was when the engine was warm for only a few min

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

noone has answers for me??

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

bump...help a brotha out here!!!!

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

i guess i'll just try to figure it out myself..

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Automatic, correct?

Could be starting off in third, I did that several times when I was shift_fast experimenting, it's not all too bad starting off but WOT is useless (hell, WOT in 3rd/4th in the RE4F04A is useless in any near stock A32, gear ratios make you crawl like a Metro). What does the trans fluid look like?

When mine completely tore up (the first time) it would slip then catch all the time (felt like a neutral drop), start off in third or second, all sorts of crazy stuff.

There's a solenoid kit for the RE4F04A out, the original parts apparently aren't all that great. I swapped out the solenoids in my third trans and it acted great until all the damage already done to it caught up and killed it. WOT 5500 RPM @ 10MPH FTL. Clutches welded themselves together, no friction material left at all.

Definitely get a trans shop to do a diag on it, maybe give it a test drive. Mine was the exact opposite, cold it was perfect, once it warmed up it slipped like crazy.

smorcr

i have the same prob at mo its like 3rd when its cold and when i come to the end of my rd 20sec drive i try stop and the car keeps tryna move till i hold the brake and the eng stalls like theres no N (its still in D ) then 2 mins of driving well as soon as the temp gage moves it drives fine but when at 100 120k it changes alot any guesses?

saig

Your AT seems to enter Fail/Safe (Limp mode). It is always in 3rd gear regardless of shift selector position. The mode can be triggered when it detects erratic shifting (spin wheels then brake). Per fsm, then, it can be reset by turn key to OFF for 8 seconds then ON. But if there is internal error, then you must perform self-diagnostic steps to find the trouble codes and go from there. 100-120kph (60-75mph) seem to be the right speed range for the gear, go faster than that the engine will work harder (rpm?).

Transmission is the most complicated part of a car. There are lot of sensors (electrical), and solenoids (hydraulic devices) sending signals to or take command from A/TCM and ECM to control the shifting.

There are many threads on limp mode here, it could help you narrow down possible causes.

saig

This diagram shows list of sensors and actuators sending and getting commands from tcm and ecm. If your engine is rev-happy then you can quickly eliminate engine control sensors.

smorcr

so why is it sweet as soon as its warmed up and its not every time but id say 70% of time safe mode till about 2mins or till the temp gage in car moves
also did a diagnostic on it and comes bak no codes 1 long 10 short flashes ive read up about temp sensor resistor or the solenoids should i ohm test these ?? if so what are thay ment to b ? if it is whatst he restor mod some people use ?

smorcr

also why when its still cold and in safe mode will it stall the eng when coming to a stop ?? eg il aply brakes slowing down hold them on at lights the car still tryna go fwd so stalls all probs go away when in 2 mins or when the car warms up has started useing alot of gass like lots auto way playingg up b4 this gas prob thro so it might b a maf or o2 one

saig

FSM suggest you check speed sensor if you get 1st long.
Did you mean dropping resistor mod? That is hack and its benefit is questionable.

saig

If you drive a manual, try to drive off from 3rd gear will stall your engine. This image shows solenoid A, B determine your current gear. You may want to trace what controls 2 solenoids to make your car stuck in 3rd gear (in fail/safe mode)?

smorcr

no codes at all speed sensor works all gd but i see theres a temp sensor on the tranz could this b it ? is it true is this reads wrong the car puts more gas in to heat up the cat converter ? if so it would explan the sudden gas jump as it uses heeps now if this is the prob how do i test it where is it found and what should it read when testing ?

saig

A/T fluid temp sensor can put car in limp mode if it is open/shorted or give incorrect voltage. At 20C/68F, voltage should read 1.5V, and when warm up 178F it should read 0.5V. This voltage is measured at TCM between pin 33 & 35.

The sensor is/seems to be in the AT oil pan. The resistance is measured at the sub harness. Resistance should be 2.5KOhm@20C/68F (key off, connector unplugged) between pin 6 & 7 of the F42 connector (an 8-pin connector). From the map, it is located near VSS sensor connector (F43) or near revolution sensor connector (F41).

Don't forget to check fsm (AT.pdf) for more detail on code P0710.

Good luck!