Driver Front Signal, What did I fry?
08-07-2017, 05:56 PM
#1
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Driver Front Signal, What did I fry?
I installed eBay k6 led turn signal mirrors, after installing drivers side by splicing into the the front turn signal, the mirror signal works but my actual turn signal no longer blinks and I get the fast clicking like its out.
Hazards don't flash the bulb either, and when I removed the mirror wire it still doesn't flash. So it's like I've blown something for only that turn signal but yet it still gets power because the mirror signal works if I wire it in
Hazards don't flash the bulb either, and when I removed the mirror wire it still doesn't flash. So it's like I've blown something for only that turn signal but yet it still gets power because the mirror signal works if I wire it in
Last edited by Violator; 08-08-2017 at 03:57 PM.
08-07-2017, 10:00 PM
#2
Fast clicking is an indication of too much electrical current going through the flasher. Translation - short circuit.
Somehow in the process of splicing the wire, you messed up. Where did you tap into the wires at? Did you pull/stretch the wire? It may have gotten cut on another part of the car body.
I don't know how this would keep the car from starting. Is the starter spinning the engine and the engine doesn't catch or is it that the starter is "dead"?
Somehow in the process of splicing the wire, you messed up. Where did you tap into the wires at? Did you pull/stretch the wire? It may have gotten cut on another part of the car body.
I don't know how this would keep the car from starting. Is the starter spinning the engine and the engine doesn't catch or is it that the starter is "dead"?
08-08-2017, 10:08 AM
#4
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I tapped in a couple inches away from the bulb, the starter acted dead with no attempt to turn the engine
Continuity test? Anybody know where the other end of the driver side turn signal wiresi
Last edited by Violator; 08-08-2017 at 10:44 AM.
08-08-2017, 10:37 AM
#5
Maybe you just blew out the original turn signal bulb? The fact that the side mirror one blinks should mean the wire is powered that you tapped into. Maybe the side mirror uses an LED which may cause your signal to blink fast, as well (this, I am not 100% on).
I'm not sure why your car won't start though.
I'm not sure why your car won't start though.
08-08-2017, 01:25 PM
#6
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Hazard not working: check fuse 11 (10A@JuncBox, driver's left knee)
Fast blink: one of signal bulbs is burnt, either front or back corner even though the bulb is still flashing.
-front turn LH connector:
o
12 : pin1 +, pin 2 grd
-back turn LH plug
o
1234 : pin 2 +, pin 4 grd.
o is the hump when you remove the plug and look directly into the pins. it should appear in the middle of the plug.
Fast blink: one of signal bulbs is burnt, either front or back corner even though the bulb is still flashing.
-front turn LH connector:
o
12 : pin1 +, pin 2 grd
-back turn LH plug
o
1234 : pin 2 +, pin 4 grd.
o is the hump when you remove the plug and look directly into the pins. it should appear in the middle of the plug.
Last edited by saig; 08-08-2017 at 01:28 PM.
08-08-2017, 02:53 PM
#7
Is the rear bulb working and only the front bulb is out? Take the turn signal bulb out of the socket and turn the hazard flashers on. Take your voltmeter and see if you are getting pulses of 12 volts on the contact inside the socket, which is the green/black stripe wire. If you are, then check for continuity between the the wall of the socket and chassis ground.
08-09-2017, 10:22 PM
#8
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It fast blinks with and the front drivers side turn signal doesnt work even with hazards. Even with led mirror disconnected it doesnt work. Led mirror works when connected even with hazards. tried the other bulb in it. I splice it in a few inches away from the socket
Last edited by Violator; 08-09-2017 at 10:25 PM.
08-10-2017, 08:44 AM
#9
Since you tapped into the wire by the front light and the mirror will light up, everything is good up to the point where you tapped the wire. So from that point to the light socket is suspect.
Like I said in post # 7 above, remove the light bulb and check the voltage in the socket.
Like I said in post # 7 above, remove the light bulb and check the voltage in the socket.
08-10-2017, 11:55 AM
#10
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Since you tapped into the wire by the front light and the mirror will light up, everything is good up to the point where you tapped the wire. So from that point to the light socket is suspect.
Like I said in post # 7 above, remove the light bulb and check the voltage in the socket.
Like I said in post # 7 above, remove the light bulb and check the voltage in the socket.
im gonna take it to auto zone and see if they'll test the voltage real quick BC I'm doing something wrong here even though I've used a multimeter hundreds of time or my multimeter is busted BC it doesn't seem to be giving me a legit reading from the working passenger side with the hazards flashing
08-10-2017, 01:52 PM
#12
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Is the rear bulb working and only the front bulb is out? Take the turn signal bulb out of the socket and turn the hazard flashers on. Take your voltmeter and see if you are getting pulses of 12 volts on the contact inside the socket, which is the green/black stripe wire. If you are, then check for continuity between the the wall of the socket and chassis ground.
The trouble is actually capturing the pulse of 12v. I have a cheap meter and even autozones much nicer one wasnt able to get a good reading on the bulbs that actually work. You just get random low numbers constantly changing on the meter. I tried eliminating a bad spot on the wire and cut out the section I messed with and nothing.
While I was at AutoZone I replaced the flasher as a guess and to also get one thats made for LEDs so the working bulbs would stop flashing fast.
08-10-2017, 03:52 PM
#13
That is right. Since the turn signal in on and off, a digital voltmeter does not react fast enough to show the true voltage. You get a readout that is constantly changing and does not stabilize. But the erratic reading does indicate that voltage is there.
Since you are trying to use a led bulb, why don't you put a regular incandescent bulb in and see what happens. Have you tried checking the continuity of the bulb socket ground, measuring from the contact inside the socket to chassis ground?
Since you are trying to use a led bulb, why don't you put a regular incandescent bulb in and see what happens. Have you tried checking the continuity of the bulb socket ground, measuring from the contact inside the socket to chassis ground?
08-11-2017, 01:24 PM
#14
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That is right. Since the turn signal in on and off, a digital voltmeter does not react fast enough to show the true voltage. You get a readout that is constantly changing and does not stabilize. But the erratic reading does indicate that voltage is there.
Since you are trying to use a led bulb, why don't you put a regular incandescent bulb in and see what happens. Have you tried checking the continuity of the bulb socket ground, measuring from the contact inside the socket to chassis ground?
Since you are trying to use a led bulb, why don't you put a regular incandescent bulb in and see what happens. Have you tried checking the continuity of the bulb socket ground, measuring from the contact inside the socket to chassis ground?
08-12-2017, 11:39 AM
#15
Continuity between positive and negative is known as a short circuit and blows fuses.
08-24-2017, 12:20 PM
#16
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The second part of your statement. Check from the negative contact part inside the light bulb socket to chassis ground. The screw behind the headlight is OK, the negative battery post is OK, any part of the car body is OK as long as you are touching bare metal.
Continuity between positive and negative is known as a short circuit and blows fuses.
Continuity between positive and negative is known as a short circuit and blows fuses.
Interestingly the wires at the flasher relay under the steering wheel I do get 12v on the green/red passenger side signal, but the green/black for the drivers is bouncing around 1 to 12
08-24-2017, 06:51 PM
#17
The green/red wire comes from the fuse so it should be a solid, constant 12 volts.
The green/black goes to the left side light bulbs and will be a blinking 12 volts because of the flasher.
The green/yellow goes to the right side light bulbs so it will also be a blinking 12 volts.
Do you feel confident enough to unplug the wires from the hazard flasher switch, then jumper 12 volts to the green/red wire on the turn signal flasher? Then try the turn signals. The electrical circuit for the turn signals goes through the hazard flasher switch. This would eliminate the hazard switch which has been known to go bad.
The green/black goes to the left side light bulbs and will be a blinking 12 volts because of the flasher.
The green/yellow goes to the right side light bulbs so it will also be a blinking 12 volts.
Do you feel confident enough to unplug the wires from the hazard flasher switch, then jumper 12 volts to the green/red wire on the turn signal flasher? Then try the turn signals. The electrical circuit for the turn signals goes through the hazard flasher switch. This would eliminate the hazard switch which has been known to go bad.
08-26-2017, 09:27 AM
#19
The flasher only has 3 wires on it, the ones you mentioned. I was just stating the wire colors as a reference. This is a case where too much info was a bad thing.
But what I said about bypassing the hazard flasher switch is valid and if you could try that, that would be great.
But what I said about bypassing the hazard flasher switch is valid and if you could try that, that would be great.
08-28-2017, 10:31 AM
#20
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The flasher only has 3 wires on it, the ones you mentioned. I was just stating the wire colors as a reference. This is a case where too much info was a bad thing.
But what I said about bypassing the hazard flasher switch is valid and if you could try that, that would be great.
But what I said about bypassing the hazard flasher switch is valid and if you could try that, that would be great.
Last edited by Violator; 08-28-2017 at 10:34 AM.
08-28-2017, 03:58 PM
#22
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Pretty disappointed in the amount of wires I tested, cut, soldered twisted fuses I checked and changed etc etc only to find out that the smaller side contact inside where the bulb goes simply needed bent to make more contact. Tomorrow I'll be fixing up the mess of wires I made and enjoying my fully functioning turn signals and the signal mirrors which I love. Very disappointed it was something so simple and not really much my fault. Would of been dealing with this issue for awhile longer had I not pressed the bulb just right so that I got a flash of light, I had messed with it before also and it just never made the right contact
Last edited by Violator; 08-28-2017 at 11:39 PM.
08-29-2017, 11:54 AM
#23
Pretty disappointed in the amount of wires I tested, cut, soldered twisted fuses I checked and changed etc etc only to find out that the smaller side contact inside where the bulb goes simply needed bent to make more contact. Tomorrow I'll be fixing up the mess of wires I made and enjoying my fully functioning turn signals and the signal mirrors which I love. Very disappointed it was something so simple and not really much my fault. Would of been dealing with this issue for awhile longer had I not pressed the bulb just right so that I got a flash of light, I had messed with it before also and it just never made the right contact
08-29-2017, 11:59 AM
#24
Until you can find a light bulb that is not working, there is no way of telling you where to start.
Intermittent problems are the worst kind. You might have to live with it until it becomes more consistent.
08-29-2017, 12:27 PM
#25
It means you have an intermittent connection somewhere. It could be as simple as a light bulb going bad or it could be a wire harness problem.
Until you can find a light bulb that is not working, there is no way of telling you where to start.
Intermittent problems are the worst kind. You might have to live with it until it becomes more consistent.
Until you can find a light bulb that is not working, there is no way of telling you where to start.
Intermittent problems are the worst kind. You might have to live with it until it becomes more consistent.
08-29-2017, 07:31 PM
#26
Yes, the issue would be strictly with the turn signals and associated wiring/relays/etc. In the electrical world, everything is a circuit. Circuits are separate and independent. Each has its own fuses, switches, lamps, relays, solenoids and whatever. So a problem in a circuit will not affect another.
08-29-2017, 11:07 PM
#27
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Just to clarify - the issue would be strictly with the turn signals and associated wiring/relays/etc, correct? As in, an electrical issue elsewhere on the car couldnt cause something like this to occur? Youre right about it being the worst. It comes and goes whenever it pleases with no rhyme or reason , its gone away mid turn even.