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Sounds like a good idea . ill give it a try.. I also have a microscopic shop-vac attachment ill try to get the surrounding debris out with
i blasted the top of the engine with the compressor before i started, but there is way to many crevices for stuff to get into, and i missed some "stuff" of course
If I had a mini vaccuum like that, I would attach a soda straw to the vaccuum hose with some kind of tape. Then I would shove the soda straw through the spark plug hole till it contacts the piston.
Alrighty cars back together but im a little embarrassed to say i have this hose leftover. ive looked for the past hour while the intake was off and couldnt find where it went....
Now heres the dilema , i know i bought 2 replacement hoses since i started. Now i cant remember which hoses i replaced .(embarassing ,yes)
Im 99.99999% sure everything is back where it belongs. But can anyone put my mind at ease and tell me where a hose this size would go?
Length: 3 1/4"
Inside diameter : 3/8"
getting late ..work early going to call it for now .
Thanks again everyone
The throttle body is heated by two coolant lines of that dize and diameter.look under the throttle body.
The middle hose is vaccuum make sure that one is not kinked. The other hoses fit the outerm ones.
They in turn connect to their lines.on the other side.
Alright so i got more time last night to finish putting everything back and making sure every hose was where it should be and connected properly .
The mystery hose turned out to be on the top middle of UIM (i forgot i replaced it already)
So i get the car started after 3 turns of the key (seemed normal) started well and acted as expected ( rpm fluctuated while car was heating up)
I decided to back out of the garage to see how it would act .. It drove fine out of the garage, i put it in park and it started "surging lightly"..... Knew something wasnt right ..
Now i had a check engine light the moment i got home the night it first gave me trouble. I was never able to get the code read .
so the lights still on, i drove down to autozone .. About a 5 minute drive , and it drove perfectly fine .
I get to autozone , car gets scanned and it comes up with this
I got to start the car to leave , it starts fine but begins to "surge" again and the ride home was not as smooth...
anyone have any ideas..... Ignition coil was just replaced ..what trouble shooting should i start with
Bad electrical con Becton is certainly a possibility. Which is why I suggested cleaning corrosion from the contacts.
One experement I would try is to remove the coil from #5, then put a spare plug in it. Re attach the coil wires. Attach a jumper wire from the L shaped electrode, to a ground. Then have someone start the car. You should see sparks. If not, wiring issue to coil. If yes, possible wiring issue to the injector.
Bad electrical con Becton is certainly a possibility. Which is why I suggested cleaning corrosion from the contacts.
One experement I would try is to remove the coil from #5, then put a spare plug in it. Re attach the coil wires. Attach a jumper wire from the L shaped electrode, to a ground. Then have someone start the car. You should see sparks. If not, wiring issue to coil. If yes, possible wiring issue to the injector.
Alright so i did the test and there is spark.....car didnt even want to start with it pulled though. Very violent shaking.
Make sure the connectors on the coilpacks all click into place. I had all kinds of problems once and it turned out that I just needed to push one of the connectors in a little more.
Everythings is plugged up nice and tight.......
just took th car at for a 30 minute drive probably drove about 20 miles.
Start up: started fine but rpms immediately shot to around 2200rpm and fluctuated between there and 1800.
Idle: once it warmed up and got to idle (around 700 rpm which was always normal for me) it started to pulse violently and the rpms would fluctuate by 50 back and forth within a second.
The drive: put it in reverse it was still shaking violently . i got it out of the driveway put it in drive .
accelerating seemed to be fine( maybe some lack of power) . stopped at the end of my street and the shaking returned.
drove for 30 minutes avoiding stops as much as possible definetely still felt a little lack of power
Parked in driveway right now: while im sitting here typing this i just got back from the drive ...now sitting with the car on ...about every 30 seconds the car fluctuates rpms very slightly for about 5 seconds then stops ...
Anyone have any ideas.... I was hoping the CEL would pop back up as something different so i could just toss money and fix .....ill give it another drive tomorrow after work to see if i can pop a code.. In the meantime any suggestions are welcome
If not, I'd start by re-checking your work. Sounds like a vacuum leak.
Besides a visual inspection, grab a can of carb cleaner and spray it around the base of the manifold, vacuum lines etc. If the rpm's change, you've found a vacuum leak.
Going to try the carb cleaner test tomorrow when i can get back to store..
But i just tried the car again.
Immediately on start up the CEL came on ..
I let the car run in park for a couple minutes
Here is a video of exactly whats going on if anyone would care to take a look.
first part is of exhaust pipe because ita the best place to here whats going on (dont mind the air plane around 40 seconds that ruined that part)
Second half is of the tachometer so you can see the needle fluctuate
Now the only code im getting is.(i dont have code reader).. So it is 2 slow flashes and 1 short flash... Reference says its p1320. Which would be ignition control. Going to look into that now i guess
Fuel. Perhaps there is no electrical signal to the injector. The injector its self confimed good.
Spark. You have confirmed this is good as well.
Compression. I have not read about our cars having compression issues, but anything is possible. A stuck valve for example.
I would do a compression test on the cylinders you are having issues with. If it shows low, you have found the problem. If it reads normal, the problem is most likely due to no electrical signal to the injector.
Picked up a can of carb cleaner , started the car, and sprayed around the intake manifold and surrounding hose...nothing changed just felt like i was making a mess(may try again)
Picked up a compression test gauge, tested all the cylinders here were the results
Cylinder
1-175psi
2-180psi
3-175psi
4-170psi
5-180psi
6-180psi
so compression doesnt seem to be an issue
After compression test car will not smooth out in intervals like it was doing yesterday .
Now it is a constant rough idle that fluctuates
putting in drive does not make any better
The car starts fine.
I have been reading more in to code p1320 which is popped up the second i started my car after clearing codes (seems like everyother time i start the car it pops up...)
heres videos
(2nd start after compression test and clearing codes
Alright so i am now reading that these ignition coils are problematic and are not properly manufactured if they are not oem or hanshin... Supposedly there should be some kind of circle or grey mark on the tops of the ignition coils that actually work properly.
So my hopes now is that the cylinder 5 misfire was caused by a faulty fuel injector, and that these are not the proper ignition coils.(probably wrong coils...they came in unmarked brown boxes)
so now i plan on replacing the ignition coils with the original ignition coils and see if it fixes anything.
Summary:
-Compression:good
-spark: present
-injectors: new (pending electrical test)
-ignition coils: new (possibly faulty)
-Sparkplugs: good working condition
-startup: good
-Vaccuum leaks?: tested (still not 100% confirmed)
-codes: p1320 (maybe caused by improper ignition coils)
idle: rough
stalling : does not stall
This car is giving me a headache and the last thing i want to do is to take it somewhere to get looked at and them come up with nothing.
i truly appreciate everyones help thanks again
Alright patience for this car is gone i really dont know what to do now...
switched back to the original ignition coils
nothing changed
Cleaned maf. Nothing changed
adjusted throttle cable no change
Tried the carb cleaner trick multiple times nothing changes as far as i can tell
checked all the hoses for the thousandth time..none of them seem over worn or soft
Did a sound check of all injectors with stethoscope i can hear them all clicking
What else would give me this issue. Im on the web all day just searching and cant get an idea.
From now on, change parts only for the iffy cylinders. Leave the rest alone. We want to isolate the problem, not move parts around, only to create more variables.
We know that compression is good.
We know that you have spark.
I've asked before, How clean are the contacts in the wiring harness which hook up to the injectors and coils (only for the iffy cylinders )
I've banged my head against the wall more than once, only to find that a bit of corrosion on a contact was the root cause.
Seems to me that you have confirmed that parts do work properly on the other cylinders. But the probem persists only on the iffy cylinders.
So the only remaining variable seems to be the wiring.
Id like input from other members regarding their opinion about my theory.
Im not getting any codes for a specific cylinder since i reset the ecu.
i was just playing around dont remember what i did but it threw a "multiple cylinder misfire " at me . i cleared the ecu and it has not come back
Ever since i switched the ignition coils back i have not got a code for "ignition control module"...
as of now with the car just running its not throwing
any codes....
Im starting to suspect something away from injectors and coils(not ruling it out though)
is there away to test for a vaccuum leak more accurately
Is there a way to test to see if my exhaust isnt "clogged up"? Id remove cat but its rusted on pretty good...i can get it off but dont want the extra work if i dont have to
Could the knock snesor cause these issues?
ill try to rip it all apart tomorrow and check everything possible .... Mostly everything on this car is really clean but ill definetely check the injector harness and plugs ( ive been procrastinating, really didnt feel like doing the job twice)
The knock sensor code comes up if some other issue causes the engine to knock. The engine will still run quite normal with a defective sensor. Personal experience.
You DID oil the o rings on the injectors before you installed them, right? Reason I ask is that the o rings distort and cause problems if you don't do that.
Do you own a,vaccuum guage?
I test for vaccuum leaks with an unlit propane torch. I place the nozzle at any possible leaks. Like the uim for example. Do this only outside of course. No smoking please.....
I dont have a vaccuum gauge, but i suppose i could go rent one if theyre good at pinpointing leaks... Ill try the propane after work though
and yes i oiled top and bottom o-ring before installing.. Didnt need excessive force when putting them in i was very cautious at that part as i read that in multiple places.
Been thinking..... the injectors have ground wires which are attached to the engine at the top front of the uim. Near the front valve cover. Some corrosion there could create the problems you have. Remove the ground wires... sand with fine grit sand paper, reattach.
The vaccuum guage only measures general intake vaccuum. It does not pinpoint any leaks. If you don't already have one, don't bother.
Just use the propane torch. A leak would suck the propane into the engine. Engine speed will increase, and it will sound better.
Still no luck ... Ran the propane torch all around the engine and couldnt get it to run any different...
cleaned up the injector grounds real good still nothing...
Its really strange how it runs ...its never steady and has no real pattern. At any point it will shake, climb in rpm, surge , or constantly fluctuate rpm its so unpredictable ...i want swear i hear a hissing noise from around the center of the UIM where the #3 injector is .. But its intermittent with no pattern and i cant really locate it with everything in the way.
Thinking of just taking to a mechanic but what can they really do that i cant .
A quick way to diagnose a fuel issue is start the car then run it 10 minutes.
Shut it off then pull the MAF connector.
Then restart car.
If it doesn't start or starts but stalls you may have a bad fuel issue.
This is supposed to involve a code but whats the difference if there's a fuel code or not?
Plug the MAF back in then clear the code.
So im just wondering why you didnt go to the JY and pick up a full fuel rail with injectors for like $20, seriously the amount of options out there. i would have upgraded to some 3.5 style top feeds, better fuel pattern and easier to work with than the sidefeeds. but anyway.
This is so you know the 4th gen uses a few sensors that effect the way the car idles and drives:
Crank/cam
Temp sensors
Maf
O2
Knock
If a tune up did not solve your problem, its likely going to exist and one of those sensors. I can tell you right now that your crank/cam/knock sensors are not going to cause this issue. leaves you with Coolant temp sensor, Maf, O2 sensors. some where in there is likely your issue.
ALSO a vac leak can cause this issue, and that vac leak CAN BE CAUSED by the IACV. A faulty IACV will cause the issues that you describe.
Now tbh all this parts are available at your local LKQ, personally i find no reason to not have spare parts with a local LKQ that stocks these cars in the thousands. Half of the stuff i get from LKQ has good number of fingers discount. You drive a maxima so i have the basic jest of what your financial situation is so i do not have to explain much further its not hard just be semi creative.
Last edited by Crusher103; 10-07-2017 at 01:32 PM.
One of the cylinders seems to be flooded with gasoline..... The top of the piston is submerged in gas ...only in one cylinder though....possible ignition coil issue?
No what's happening is your fuel injector is failing and fuel is leaking past after you shut the car off. The injector is supposed to seal shut closing fuel off.
Clip the injectors back into the rail then put the rail up with cups under each injector. Hook the rail back up. turn the ignition on not start
Keep it on for a few minutes then determine if you see drops of fuel from the injector.
If you do then those ones need replacing.
Also crank the motor too and make sure each one spits fuel.
If I was going to flow test them I'd use a pulse tester from Amazon.
A quick way to diagnose a fuel issue is start the car then run it 10 minutes.
Shut it off then pull the MAF connector.
Then restart car.
If it doesn't start or starts but stalls you may have a bad fuel issue.
This is supposed to involve a code but whats the difference if there's a fuel code or not?
Plug the MAF back in then clear the code.
tried this, car started no problem after removing MAF sensor. Ran "better" than with it plugged in(not good though).
plugged back in...car went back to its erratic self.
Originally Posted by Crusher103
So im just wondering why you didnt go to the JY and pick up a full fuel rail with injectors for like $20, seriously the amount of options out there. i would have upgraded to some 3.5 style top feeds, better fuel pattern and easier to work with than the sidefeeds. but anyway.
ignorance i guess. I was looking to replace as much as i could for as cheap as possible (saving money is always a goal). And i never go for something just because its cheap i research everything multiple times before i buy..(every once in a while i learn a lesson). Actually looking through my junk pile i found a fuel rail from a scrap maxima i had. It has the injectors but most of the pintle caps are broke.
Originally Posted by Crusher103
If a tune up did not solve your problem, its likely going to exist and one of those sensors. I can tell you right now that your crank/cam/knock sensors are not going to cause this issue. leaves you with Coolant temp sensor, Maf, O2 sensors. some where in there is likely your issue.
Any tests you would recommend trying on any of those?
im. Sure i could just replace the 02 sensors and coolant temp sensor and see where that goes. But the MAF sensor is pricy for oem.
Originally Posted by Crusher103
ALSO a vac leak can cause this issue, and that vac leak CAN BE CAUSED by the IACV. A faulty IACV will cause the issues that you describe.
Now tbh all this parts are available at your local LKQ, personally i find no reason to not have spare parts with a local LKQ that stocks these cars in the thousands. Half of the stuff i get from LKQ has good number of fingers discount. You drive a maxima so i have the basic jest of what your financial situation is so i do not have to explain much further its not hard just be semi creative.
Sorry but what is a LKQ? Have never seen that abbreviation before.
I definetely will stop by the junkyard and grab an iacv and give that a try. I was actually zeroing in on that when i was messing with the car earlier... The hissing noise i mentioned seems to be coming from that are ( originally thought it was the hose from the uim). Any places those tend to leak?(replaced gasket when reinstalling) I tried the propane torch test all around that area and didnt notice a change .and it doesnt seem like its coming from a hose... I was also suspecting the TB leaking air at the gasket. I ordered new gasket directly from nissan but it didnt seem to beefy. But didnt feel it needed to be .. Idk just a thought[/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by maximatech12
No what's happening is your fuel injector is failing and fuel is leaking past after you shut the car off. The injector is supposed to seal shut closing fuel off.
Clip the injectors back into the rail then put the rail up with cups under each injector. Hook the rail back up. turn the ignition on not start
Keep it on for a few minutes then determine if you see drops of fuel from the injector.
If you do then those ones need replacing.
Also crank the motor too and make sure each one spits fuel.
If I was going to flow test them I'd use a pulse tester from Amazon.
The cylinder full of fuel was found when pulling original injectors.. All injectors were replaced with remanufactured from rock auto since then.
I can defienetly give the test on the injectors as i figure im going to have to pull everything out again any way eventually.. Now do i need the pulse tester you mentioned. Or can it be performed using just the vehicle?
With cars like these not known what LKQ is, thats the equivalent to not knowing Harbor freight&Northern Tool. LKQ is your BEST source for more rare and expensive parts, however you are rolling the dice, ti might work, it might not. Something like a MAF? LKQ, just go swipe like 3 of them. One is bound to work.
But how do i test to see if my MAF sensor is at fault...just buying and testing will only fix if it is the problem. Of not im just swapping them for no reason....anyone? Plus theyre not based in jersey and apparently takes 3 day just to have access to their parts online.
On the vacuum leak question, if the UIM was removed, was the EGR tube gasked properly reinstalled?
I've seen some strange vacuum leak issues after a UIM removal that were traced back to the EGR tube gasket falling out during re-installation.
Here's a picture of the tube below.
ill definetely take a look there ... I replaced the original gaskets on the egr tube but there os a chance its could be that as thats the area where im hearing an air sound. im planning on removing everything again and replacing all the hoses i can.. Any where i can get some good quality hose from...and what sizes are used in this vehicle ...seems 3 different sizes....i dont like the "by the foot" hose at autozone its really chincy.. Appreciate the suggestions.....
btw your engine is the cleanest ive ever seen ...i drool when i see it lol
09-26-2017, 12:38 PM
