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key fob stopped working/ 95 max

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Old Nov 7, 2017 | 06:12 AM
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key fob stopped working/ 95 max

so, it was working fine, then it just stopped. i thought the battery died, so i replaced it, went through the programming steps and after the key in and out step, no flash. i still turned the key forward after that step to the acc position and pressed the lock button and the hazards flashed? must have done it like 6 times, wont work. i have a backup remote, put a new battery in that, no go. would something in the ignition tumbler possible come loose? can still lock the door and set the alarm with key, suggestions-- thanks
Old Nov 8, 2017 | 12:35 PM
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The BCM controls the remote programming. Try disconnecting the battery and resetting the BCM.

Does the dinger sound when you open the door with engine turned off and the key in the ignition?

Threaten the car - tell it you'll replace it with a Honda.
Old Nov 8, 2017 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
The BCM controls the remote programming. Try disconnecting the battery and resetting the BCM.

Does the dinger sound when you open the door with engine turned off and the key in the ignition?

Threaten the car - tell it you'll replace it with a Honda.
Dennis.... You're way too nice a guy!

Insult it as well, and threaten to replace it with a Fiat or a used Smart Car. LOL
Old Nov 8, 2017 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
The BCM controls the remote programming. Try disconnecting the battery and resetting the BCM.

Does the dinger sound when you open the door with engine turned off and the key in the ignition?

Threaten the car - tell it you'll replace it with a Honda.
it did, didn't pay attention to the bing sound. just noticed no reprogram flash after second step. which terminal of the battery do you disconnect? both or just neg/pos? wait, isn't there a fuse for the alarm/actuator under the dash? just read some old posts that that could be the problem.

Last edited by max ride 41; Nov 9, 2017 at 05:30 AM.
Old Nov 9, 2017 | 09:59 AM
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Disconnect the positive cable, but it may not really matter which one.

Since the door chime works, that eliminates the ignition switch not sensing the key.

There are several fuses that have something to do with the theft system, but all of them also provide power to other things that you would probably have noticed are not working. In the dash - #12, #17, #19, #33, #40. There are more fuses under the hood, but they are more directly involved with powering the horns and hazard lights.

If you need a road map for which fuse is which number, go to page 4 in this link -
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...95/foldout.pdf

Also, here are the directions I have used to program the keyfobs. Maybe yours is different/wrong???

Code:
To program the remote(s) follow this procedure.

1. Unlock all doors and get in car.

2. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

3. Insert the igniton key and completely remove from the ignition switch
   at least 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
   signals) will then flash twice and all previous codes will be cleared.

4. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

5. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time,
   the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
   signals) will then flash twice.

If you are programming just one remote, go to step 10.
If you need to activate additional remote controllers, continue with Step 6.

6. Manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock
   ****.

7. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

8. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and
   additional remote is programmed.

9. For additional remotes, go back to step 6.

10. When done, open the driver's door to exit programming state.

NOTE: A maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.
Old Nov 9, 2017 | 03:42 PM
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Im running into a similiar issue myself. with my switch. I think its just time for the old 95 switch to be replaced. Mine will not rotate back all the way now for some reason. Ive been having to use my icepick of a key to lock and unlock my doors. Try to lock the doors with the key out. Mine Wont. They Unlock. So im pretty sure the mechanical part of the switch is defective. keep us posted...
Old Nov 9, 2017 | 08:08 PM
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also there's a couple of wires in the trunk that i might have loosened with all the crap i have back there. i will check tomorrow after the rain stops.




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