maximaxi

I just replaced my front pads and rotors, and bled the brake fluid with speed bleeders. I used EBC Ultimax "Blackstuff" pads and Wagner E-coated rotors that do not need to be cleaned off before installation.

The brakes work perfect, except for that scraping sound coming from the front left. It sounds like that scraping sound with the dust shields, but I bent the shield back, and it still scrapes!!!

There is no noise from the right side.

The inner front pads have a metal clip on them. Is it supposed to point up or down? I installed them with the metal clip up, but the old pads had the metal clip down. The outer pads do not have any metal clip on them.

Note that the noise I'm hearing is NOT a high-pitch squeaking sound that wear indicators typically make.

What else could cause the scraping noise besides the shield?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps raising the front of the car, removing the wheel and spinning the rotor might more clearly reveal the source of the noise.

I also assume that with your new pads you replaced all of the hardware ... correct?

maximaboy12

iTrader: (7)

I would check the suspected rotor and see if you can see where the scratching is coming from. If something is rubbing up against the rotor, it will leave a ring. That should point you in the right direction.

I would definitely suspect the dust shield. When I did brake jobs on my 5.5 if you would bend the bottom of the shield back, the top of it would flex in. Also, check if there is any debris lodged between the rotor and shield, I've had gravel get stuck in there.

KP11520

Tb above is onto something! Did you use silicone grease on all the proper friction places and floating pins? Did you bed the brakes property?

If you have no clue on what I'm referring to, it's never too late to learn. LOL

maximaxi

@KP, I used the grease that came with the pads. I applied it to the slide pins and the top and ears of the pads, and also on the rear face of the pads.
They don't seem to require any special bedding procedure, and the noise doesn't really happen when the brakes are applied. It's NOT about brake noise itself. In fact, the brakes themselves are silent when stopping.

The scraping noise occurs when driving at speed, almost anytime the car isn't stationary. It's usually proportional to vehicle speed, regardless of whether the brakes are applied or not.

@maximaboy12, I bent the bottom of the shield back *and* I bent the top of it back. Almost the entire thing!

maximaboy12

iTrader: (7)

have you checked the rotor to see marks from where it is rubbing?

CS_AR

^^^^^ I've used lug nuts to tighten down a front rotor on the hub so I could use the engine to spin a wheel to find a noise that only appeared at 35 MPH.

Also, I've wrestled with the dust shield rubbing the rotors on many occasions.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

what clips are you referring to?

DBear

OP, it certainly sounds like the heat shield. I'm guessing you bent the shield away from the rotor. If you bend it too far out, it may be hitting the inside of the wheel. I just did my brakes and had the exact same problem. I ended up pushing the top of the heat shield down a bit, towards the rotor, so that the gap between the shield and the rotor is the same all the way around, and that fixed it.

PH98I30

I had a problem like this on my 98 Camry. One of the new rotors I got rubbed on the brake caliper, causing a scraping sound. The rotor was different from the other side, all though the p/n was the same for both. Another rotor fixed the problem. Look at the rotor and caliper and see if you can find scraping marks.

nissan99

How’s your wheel bearings ?

99sagelimited

I dealt with this issue forever with my 99 Maxima and I always seemed to aggravate it more after a brake job. It was the dust shields and all four of them ended up rubbing on the inner most part of the shield. I would bend them back and the noise would always return. I ended up cutting all of the dust shields off as rust started to get them anyway.

maximaxi

When I took the wheel off, I found that a corner of the shield was rubbing against the rotor. But then I went around the whole dust shield, bent it back even more with some large needle nose pliers, and it STILL SCRAPES!!!

There is NOTHING I CAN DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The shields are actually in good shape in terms of structural integrity (as in not rusted to pieces), so I can't just break it off like I did with one of the rear dust shields. It's like the only metal part of the car that's not rusted!

Any advice on how I can take the dust shield off? What is the best cutting tool to use?

maximaboy12

iTrader: (7)

This is interesting. It shouldn't be giving you this many problems! If you want to cut it off, any regular cutting wheel should work.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Why not just do it right?

Instead of hacking away at the offending part with power tools just get it out of the way, why not remove the hub and then remove the shield correctly?

Remove hub ... remove shield via 4 bolts ... replace shield (or not) ... reinstall hub.

maximaboy12

iTrader: (7)

I really don't understand how it is giving you so much trouble... I am pretty sure you're over-bending it, therefore causing it to touch on the other side when you bend it on one side. I would take the wheel off again and just see where it is scraping again.

KP11520

The front shields are crimped on the steering knuckles.

They can be knocked off with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver if the Hub has been removed. With the hub in place and the shields metal still with its integrity, you will have a miserable time cutting it off behind the hub.

I can have my steering knuckles out in 30 minutes each.

You can buy new backing shields but they will most likely need to be tacked on with a welder or brazed. After you clean the areas of grease and remove the paint. You also need your bearings and seals out so the heat doesn't ruin them.

If you lift your car both front wheels off the ground, put it in Neutral and spin the wheels (Tires removed), you can bend everything to that happy medium. Too far out means grinding on the inside of the rims.

Just do it.

maximaxi

Yeah I just looked up how to remove the hub, and it looks impossible.

rodent_infested_03

Rather than needle nose pliers, try a prybar that bends more length at one time and has more leverage. I regretted removing the shields. From that point on caliper bolts and hardware would rot, dry out, squeak, etc. Made brake jobs messy and harder to perform. IMO the shields are something to keep. They protect against road debris especially in winter with sand, salt, and water splash. You will definitely notice weaker, slower braking in foul weather. That noise will gradually go away as its ground down by the harder rotor.

99sagelimited

I would still recommend cutting off the offending dust shield(s). It can be done correctly without removing the hub. Just use an open end wrench to loosen the bolts holding the shield in place (rotor has to be off to do this) and cut everything away starting with big chunks and getting the pieces around the bolts last. I did it all with tin snips but the addition of a dremel tool may have helped too. It didn't take long at all.

JvG

Keep working on it, a bit at a time. Turn the rotor a bit each time. See. Or feel where it rubs.

straight ing tools could include a better set of pliers, a small crowbar, or large flat screwdrivers.

Mostly, PATIENCE. This is easy, not rocket science.

The factory put the shields there for a reason.
Not only Nissan, but all of them .

Their engineers and accountants knew what they were doing. You need those shields, even though they are annoying right now.