Car gets no power :(
#2
Did you check the negative/ positive cable if they are still ok and intact to the car not rusted. Did you check the fuse under the hood the battery fuse 40a and the other fuses under the hood and the dash where the ob2 scanner goes. What year is the car does it have immobilizer.
#4
I would like a clarification of "Battery is not powering the car".
Do lights work (dome, head) but the the engine does not crank over or is everything completely dead as if there is no battery in the car?
Do lights work (dome, head) but the the engine does not crank over or is everything completely dead as if there is no battery in the car?
#5
Sorry guys, but to be clear, I have checked all fuses and they are good. The lights do not turn on at all. Nothing is getting power. The battery is new. When I connect the negative cable to the battery, it doesn't spark like it used to. And yes, I've tried multiple places to ground the cable, as well as replace the ground cable. What I have noticed right before it died, was that the horn was lightly beeping, and a ticking noise was coming from the relay box on the passenger side where the beeping horn is wired to.
#6
Jack, the light beeping might be related to the alarm. Mine has acted the same in the past.
I put a new battery in mine one time. The alarm beeping started immediatly.
The car wanted me to lock, then unlock the drivers door with the key. Please try doing that.
I put a new battery in mine one time. The alarm beeping started immediatly.
The car wanted me to lock, then unlock the drivers door with the key. Please try doing that.
#7
My driver side's key hole is broken or something because I can't use the key to unlock it from that side. But I remember when I used my key fob to unlock it right before it died, it only unlocked halfway before becoming fully unlocked by hand. Yes, I had to unlock it from the passenger side.
#8
My driver side's key hole is broken or something because I can't use the key to unlock it from that side. But I remember when I used my key fob to unlock it right before it died, it only unlocked halfway before becoming fully unlocked by hand. Yes, I had to unlock it from the passenger side.
Please unlock the passenger door with a key. Doing that might turn the anti theft system off. Don' know if this will help, but its worth a try.
#9
I agree, it might be immobilized. I just went through similar issue on my driver's door. The key lock was stuck. Replaced a rotted latch. Always fix broken key locks right away, you can't rely on FOB's and electronic door actuators only to unlock your doors. If you lose power you're screwed, locked out of your car. Ouch.. Maybe get in through the hatch? Don't know.
#10
I think thatthe fact that your drivers side lock will not lock all the way might also be the reason that your alarm might not respond to that door. Fixing that lock might solve your no start problem.
For now, unlock using your passenger side lock.
Report the results.
For now, unlock using your passenger side lock.
Report the results.
#12
Wizard, I have a 96 Se. 5 speed.
I'm not talking full scale immobiizer like the 99 has.
My car has had no start and horn horking episodes in the past. Like if I have the key in the ignition and reach through the door to start the car rather than open the door first, then turn the key.. Also if I have been sitting in the car a while, then turn the key, the alarm will also do its thing.
It will refuse to play nice until the key turns the door lock.
So I'm thinking that the op might have alarm related no start even in the earlier years. Also that it won' want to start or play nice till it gets a signal from the door lock.perhaps a remote might help here.
I'm basing what I said on personal experiences.
The wtf why won' it start like we all do from time to time. Oh. The door lock..... yup.
I'm not talking full scale immobiizer like the 99 has.
My car has had no start and horn horking episodes in the past. Like if I have the key in the ignition and reach through the door to start the car rather than open the door first, then turn the key.. Also if I have been sitting in the car a while, then turn the key, the alarm will also do its thing.
It will refuse to play nice until the key turns the door lock.
So I'm thinking that the op might have alarm related no start even in the earlier years. Also that it won' want to start or play nice till it gets a signal from the door lock.perhaps a remote might help here.
I'm basing what I said on personal experiences.
The wtf why won' it start like we all do from time to time. Oh. The door lock..... yup.
Last edited by JvG; 12-04-2017 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Spell check
#14
Jack, I'm just making a wild *** guess here.
I'm just basing this on my own experience.
This does not mean that I'm right.
I look at official repair information, but I also consider what might happen to old cars.
My personal wild *** guess success rate pretty good.
People like Wizard and CS_AR, and others seem to know more than I do. I respect thier experience abd opinions.
I'm just basing this on my own experience.
This does not mean that I'm right.
I look at official repair information, but I also consider what might happen to old cars.
My personal wild *** guess success rate pretty good.
People like Wizard and CS_AR, and others seem to know more than I do. I respect thier experience abd opinions.
#15
Yeah. Nothing happened. When I connect and disconnect the battery, there isn't even a spark as if the battery was dead... I might have to double check my ground and relays. This is so frustrating. Thanks for trying though, fellas.
#16
Check your grounds for a broken connection. Also, I have had shorted batteries that kept the car from being jumpered. I had to disconnect the shorted battery from the terminals before I could jumper and start the car.
#17
I once got a new battery and the terminals were reversed! Yes, the positive was marked negative and vice versa. Double check your polarity if you just got a new battery. Hardly ever happens, but bad things happen when current goes backwards!
#19
In my area, the local Kragen-Checker-Shucks, was sometimes known for cheap *** parts.
So some of us came up with a saying....
Shucks is one of the nicer things you will say when the part you bought is defective right out of the box, or will fail soon after.. That was very true.
Generally fouler language was used.