kmax

iTrader: (1)

I've been a member here since I bought my 97 SE Auto with 60000 miles in 2001. I now have 130000 on it, I don't drive much, about 3500 a year. Of course many people roll up 200k+ on these cars and my Max has been great
but starting to have old age problems and I'm starting to question whether or not it's worth putting money into fixing:

1) tires $500
2) valve cover gaskets $500 to $600 - I figure
3) front axles (boots are ripped) $500 for both

I'm not able to fix any of the 3 myself. I'll do simpler fixes like a battery and I've replaced the ignition switch recently but nothing of any difficulty.

Over the last couple years I've had struts, starter, battery, wheel bearing, trans line rusted (needed to be towed), belts, hoses and radiator replaced. I've sent motor oil to a lab (blood test) and the results
come back good, so the engine is fine, no surprise there right? I've also replaced trans, brake and PS fluid regularly over the last 16 years.

A little body rust but nothing major. Some minor problems like antenna does not raise, cassette deck (stereo) makes clicking noise when starting car and
leather torn on drivers seat. Might be looking at a Cat in a few years.
Then there's the unknown repairs down the road and who knows what that will be.

I'm leaning towards putting the money into it but I'd be interested to hear
what you folks have to say. Assuming that you had the money to buy a newer used car would you keep and invest in this Max?

JvG

You have a low mileage Maxima which you don't drive very much. Which means it can last a long time, till rust takes over. You have already done some of the work these need at that mileage.

Money appears to be an issue. Repairing your existing car with known issues is cheaper than a more recent car with unknown issues. Or a new one with high payments for 5 years or longer.

You can buy used tires with lots of life in them for half of the 500 dollars.

You need to find a good shade tree mechanic. Like some one who works from his home.

The valve cover gasket is cheap, but does take time. Please be aware that the fuel injectors eventually leak. This means starting problems, emmissions issues, or a bad cat. Servicing the rear injectors requires removal of the intake manifold. Replacing the rear valve cover means removing that same manifold. So the logical thing to do is have the injectors rebuilt at the same time the intake manifold is off. The injectors will cost 120 or so.

​​​​​The egr system can clog over time. Fixing it is easier with that manifolf off. So is dealing with the knock sensor.

The key to this is the concept of fixing it all at the same time while someone is in there anyway.

Are the front axles acting up in any way? If not, keep driving till they do. Which means an expense some other year. Not this one. So you can do some repairs now, some in a year or two.

rodent_infested_03

How is the lower front radiator support/tie bar holding up? If its rotted out and you can't DIY, its a reason to move on. A costly repair that causes other issues. Take a look and post some pics.

JvG

Rodent has a good point. Evaluate the radiator support. Look around while you are under the car.
evaluatethe soundness of the trunk and floor an areas, the fuel nd brake lines as well.

kmax

iTrader: (1)

JVG: thanks for replying. Thanks for suggesting to replace the rear injectors and EGR system, didn't realize that.
I was aware of the knock sensor and would replace it if the valve cover gaskets are replaced.

Also, have to figure in depreciation if I were buy a newer car, about 1/3 the value of the car every 4 years I figure.
Yes, a shadetree mechanic would be beneficial no doubt. As for the axles, one CV boot is torn and surely the other will be going soon.

Rodent Infested: The radiator support has 2 spots of surface rust each about the size of a quarter. I had just
looked over the floor panels when it was on a lift and didn't see any rust. I've been very good about washing
the under carriage asap after driving on salted roads. Thanks for bringing the rust issue up.

JvG

The torn boot the drive shaft has will eventually ruin the cv joint. The important word is eventually.
In other words, not something that needs to be done right now. Next year or the one after might be just fine. The valve cover/injector project has higher priority and expense.
​​​​

kmax

iTrader: (1)

I'm not leaking much yet, about a dimes wide worth of oil on the ground overnight. Don't need to add oil often. The thing that's annoying is that there's an odor in the cabin from the burning oil with the heater on at idle. When moving I don't get the oil burning odor. I did not know that there was a chance of the CV lasting that long with a tear. I'll wait until I get the usual clicking out of the CV to replace it.

flames101sully

iTrader: (1)

Like the other guys said, find a shade tree mechanic. When I finally decided to look for one, I found one who charged at a rate of $30/hr and saved me a couple hundred on one job. If you find one with a good rate and source the parts yourself, you can save quite a lot.

Second, you never know how long the axles will last, but I have driven on mine with a leaking axle for now 50k kms.... still waiting for it to break or start ticking. The gasket would be a more important job.

Tires you can look on kijiji or craigslist, probably find some quite usable tires for less than $250 for all 4.

JvG

The smell is probably oil from the valve cover which drips on to the exhaust manifold. You might want to try to snug the valve cover bolts down a bit. This might stop the leaking. If so, you win.

The drive shafts require the same amount of expense and labor whether replaced now or later.
The clicking will happen eventually. This won't hurt the rest of the car. So you might as well use the existing axles for now.

People sometimes tend to let mechanical stuff go, because the expense to repair all of it at once gets expensive. Yet fixing one thing at a time over a year or three isn't too bad.

maximaxi

Don't keep it. These cars are awful. Too many problems with basic things that would NEVER happen on a Toyota!

The tires are the least of your problems. That's a wear item anyway.

But the real issues include, but are nowhere near limited to:
Rusty radiator support, impossible to adjust TPS, impossible to access EGR tube, stupid brake rotor dust shields that will STILL scrape even after bending them out (the rear shields will snap off, but the front ones will not), interior dash bulbs that burn out and cost more than they should to replace (climate control, hazard/defroster switches, ect), tail light wiring that fails, broken keys stuck in the lock, door lock actuator issues, OMG it will never end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am definitely chucking this car as soon as I can afford a car better than it.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i can't imagine that all these problems snuck up on you all at the same time, proper maintenance would've prevented a lot of these issues.

JoshG

^ sounds like you got a rusted lemon car. I had this car for well over 5 years, and had no major problems at all over the course of ownership, and this year i had no repairs.. last year I had to do a mini-refresh on some gaskets and brake pads nothing major.. but was worth it as its been paid. Best car I personally enjoy.

theWalkinator

I just got my car back from state inspection, well, bad news, all 3 engine mounts are broken, radiator support is separating, exhaust leak from gasket before the cat, tires need replaced. The car is 225k now, so it is time to let her go.

flames101sully

iTrader: (1)

You may have gotten a lemon it seems

I have a 99' 4cyl Camry , and it's good, but The toyota has less than half the km's of both the 98' and 00', and the maximas shift better, run smoother, and are quite a bit nicer to drive. Not to say the toyota isn't reliable, it is well above what you expect most cars to do.

rodent_infested_03

The busted radiator support which shatters the mounts (or vise versa) is what I'm working on now. It didn't creep up on you, radiator supports and rotted bolts are not part of standard maintenance. Its the design and materials used. Not your fault. But I'm curious, how are you going to let that go now that its failed inspection? Doubt any dealer would take it in a trade. I doubt you would sell that so somebody hiding a potentially dangerous structural failure. Mine was given away for these reasons. So far I'm in this car for $1200 in various parts. All DIY. If I paid someone, the car would be totaled, well above its $2500 worth. Sorry to be a downer, just want you to be prepared that you may not get anything for that car. $500-1k no strings as is, take it.

theWalkinator

I did not go under the car myself to check out radiator support, but I replaced it myself few years ago, didn't weld it back, just bolted back on, anyhow, there are so many issues with the car now, especially exhaust leaks from both head pipe and gasket before the muffler, also parking cable is not working, all these items are required to pass PA safety inspection, I don't want to deal with those repairs anymore, so I am going to give it away, maybe donate to Salvation Army.

rodent_infested_03

Was it OEM or aftermarket radiator support that failed/rotted after a few years?

theWalkinator

Aftermarket radiator support, but I gave it a rust protection treatment before I installed so I don't think it is rotted again, what I suspect is that since I didn't welded it but bolted back on, the bolts might get loosen so it is a little separating from the frame, that is easy fix, just tighten the bolts, but most difficult job will be exhaust leak, bolts on exhaust pipe flange are all rusted badly so it is going to be a PITA to break them loose, anyhow, I am done with the car.

PH98I30

To the original poster. Your car is hardly broken in. Since you drive it a limited amount of miles, keep the car and fix it. If you repair it you can get another 5-8-10 years out of it. I have 163,000 miles on mine and it will run another 150K.

vqmaxman

Toyota is a good reliable car but not better than a maxima. The problems on your car are maintenance from the years and they have been all gaithering up to the last minute. The exhaust and valve cover and ect are maintenance related. It's any car and even your highly worshipped toyota can have this happened to have all of this mechanical wear and tear. Seriously GTHOOH with the toyota being a perfect car LMFAO. I had a 00 corolla and that had a 98-01 motor that was known for burning oil and head gaskets and water pump seals going bad.

kmax

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to everyone for their input. I'm going to put the repairs into my Max and keep it.
It's still fun to drive at 85-90MPH anyway .