travelingjunk84

Alright my story begins when i notice fuel on injector #2 then on #1. So i twist #4 and #6 and boom more fuel. I order the 6 pack from ebay. Probably my first mistake. I order ignition coils from ebay as well. Probably my second mistake. Finally i get an error code and i am thinking its the injectors.

- replaced the all injectors and switched the cap bolts with better ones

- replaced the ignition coils with ebay ones. Because why not i ordered just in case my other ebay ones went out. Which they have before.

- Put everything back together and get a p1320 upon trying to start the car but it wont turn over. just cranks. Every post tells me its linked to an ignition coil. Put the old ones back because i thought it was the new ebay ones, go to start the car but just cranks. same thing after reinstalling. code p1320.

- Also replaced the ignition condenser because that's what the code is too. 10 dollar part why not. Clear the codes.

- Finally opt to get OEM from rockauto and new ngk platinums and slap those in tonight. clear the codes and they haven't returned (that i know of)but still wont turn over. At this point the battery was dying so i had to jump it thinking it was dead. Recharged and still only just cranks.

-the only thing that i didnt buy OEM is the injectors but i hope to god thats not it because 1,3,and 5 are sucha pain. Took my like 8 hrs. And ive done this one there time because the stealership wanted to charge me 1200.00 for #5 only. i paid that once but never again.

any help will do. i am a DIY kinda guy and would love to find a fix for this.

JoshG

If its the injectors or coils, rebuild all 6 injectors, or if its the coils, buy Hitachi coils.. I'm assuming you have a misfire issue correct? I had this issue and finally fixed it with a set of $297, 6 brand new Hitachi coils. Problem free since then..

travelingjunk84

No error codes at the moment. I just received the OEM Denso/hanshin coils from rockauto today and put those in. The injectors are new from ebay but i am suspecting that these guys may be the culprit.

Currently the car cranks but doesnt start with no error codes

parts list here from rockauto

ENSO 6734011 {#2244831U06} (Standard Replacement) Coil on Plug Info
Left; Hanshin Coil; Original Equipment Part

3
Arrange a Return /
Report a Problem
DENSO 6734010 {#2244831U01} (Standard Replacement) Coil on Plug Info
Right; Hanshin Coil; Original Equipment Part

3
Arrange a Return /
Report a Problem
Ignition : Spark Plug
NGK 2647 {#PFR5G11} (Double Platinum (Lasts up to 3x longer than copper plugs)) Laser Platinum Info
Gap 0.044"; Actual OE Part

vqmaxman

I see you have posted that you have a 99 the immobilizer maybe kicked in. The light stays on when the keys on the acc or on position. It's the immobilizer, If you don't see the immobilizer light still, but flashing at all times it's not the immobilizer. The next thing look into the injectors and the installations of the injectors and the harness connections. Do you smell gas that would be a good sign so you know the injectors are working and harness is good. To be safe check your injectors and the harness plugs than the coils. I don't want to say it's the ckps pos you don't have the codes for it yet.

vqmaxman

I have replaced my coils all new in 2015 for $800.00 all six but i got employees discount so i was still paying $600.00 new oem Nissan coils.

CS_AR

When you try to start the engine, do you see the following red security light?

KP11520

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

this!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

^x3!!

travelingjunk84

As far as i know i think that is off. I remember that happening to me once before. I believe it blinks but is not solid. Ill go double check right now. brb

BransAm

When you switch the car on do you hear the fuel pump prime? If not then there you go. Happened to me before on a past car a couple times.

travelingjunk84

Yup i can hear the fuel pump prime. All of these failed starts have drained my battery. i tried jumping it but didn't work. I am going to swap a battery from my work truck and see if that helps eliminate the battery issue im having no. brb

Couldnt swap it out. Taking the battery out and getting a new one. Should still be under warranty

BransAm

My 2003 SpecV did this once and it was the crank Postion sensor. Not sure but its worth a shot to check that. I think they are around $20. I am curious to see what it is.

travelingjunk84

ill look into this. so different than cam pos sensor?

CS_AR

Yes. There are two. The one under the crankshaft pulley gets covered in road gunk. The one in the bell housing collects metal shavings from the starter gear. Try cleaning both. It won't hurt anything and no purchase required.

allmazda

So sorry to hear about your problems. Taking the upper intake of sucks. If I understand your first post the car was running but you had fuel injector problems?

I did the same as you an ordered ebay injectors. One under the intake failed a month later.

Do you live near a pull-a-part? Do you have a multimeter?

The reason for this is to test the resistance of your injectors. It is easy to test the ones under the intake if you cut the main injector harness plug in that is closest to the firewall and leave about 6-8 inches of wire. Then you can plug this connector in and using the wires easily test the resistance of the injectors under the intake.

But first, check all of your harness plug ins to make sure you have them connected correctly and that they all seated all the way in. The 99 style connector with the push in can be a pain to get out.

It is easy to overlook something even if you are an expert.

BransAm

Yes it is 2 like CS_AR said. You can try cleaning them yes but if it is faulty you will not know unless you put a new one in. If it doesn't turn out to be your problem return them.

travelingjunk84

will look into these today! thank you

travelingjunk84

I will look into these today! thank you

I do have a multi meter but havent looked for a pull-a-part. I know one harness clip is broken. Must have busted this time around but i think it makes contact. i was trying to get another person to help me out so i can push it in and have them start it to see if that was the issue. right now i am going to replace my battery since i drained it.

thanks for the help be back soon

allmazda

I have a 97 harness from a junk yard. If you take a pic of the connector and where it is located I can send it to you. You can de-wire the broken connector and replace without having to splice.

allmazda

Here is a decent video to check the coils for power....


If possible invest in a cheap battery charger from Walmart or Amazon. Something that will charge your battery and let you test stuff while you are still figuring out what is wrong.

travelingjunk84

hey thanks! ill snap a pic tonight.

travelingjunk84

ok so i got a new battery and turned the key to ON position and i hear a constant buzz coming around the right side of the engine below the throttle body. I cant pin point exact.y what it is though.

allmazda

That is the Idle air Control motor - IAC. It is normal. Listen with a screw driver on the drivers side of the intake manifold. It should have a big vacuum line connected to it.

travelingjunk84

Hey there got the picture of the broken harness. Let me know what you think
https://drive.google.com/open?id=11S...dRrIK45yUbbPbs

allmazda

Those look like 2 front fuel injector plug ins.?

travelingjunk84

Hey guys when taking apart my car again i noticed that the "engine coolant temp sensor" was plugged in but the plastic piece (blue plug) seems to rotate 360 even though its secure at the threads. Do i need to replace this? Would this be causing the "crank no start"?

travelingjunk84

yes #2 and #4. The left one is the one thats broken. I circled both for reference. The right is correct with the green harness. I am missing the left green harness since i seem to have busted it.

travelingjunk84

ok so i got the new water temp sensor and also noticed my EGR tube gasket fell off sometime ago thats connected to the manifold. Ended up putting those in and OEM ignition coils. Got it to start but i think my ebay fuel injectors are crap because its idling rough.

allmazda

Disconnect your broken connector and see if idle changes

Also spray starting fluid around the intake manifold gasket on the lower intake and around the egr tube. Also the TB gasket and IAC gasket to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.

travelingjunk84

Disconnected the broken harness on #2 and nothing happened. Did the same for #4 and nothing happened. Did the same for #6 and it started to stall so i plugged it back in. i checked the OHM on 2,4,6 engine off and they all seem to read 13.0.



[QUOTE=Also spray starting fluid around the intake manifold gasket on the lower intake and around the egr tube. Also the TB gasket and IAC gasket to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.[/QUOTE]

I dont have that spray but ill pick some up tomorrow. I only have MAF cleaner.

allmazda

That is with in spec.

Leave the broken clip alone. Swap 4 and 6 coils. See if the stall on 6 follows the coil.

All of the injectors get 12 volts from the same source. It is hot all the time the key is turned or maybe hot at all times. The ecu sends the ground. With a paperclip go into the backside of number 4 injector plug. There is a red wire and another multi colored wire. The red is 12 volts. You will see a plug on the back side of the plug in for each wire. That is a weather tight seal. A paper clip will go between the outside edge of the seal and the plug in. Push it down until it make contact with the metal pin inside the connect.

Be Careful not to let the paper clip touch any metal or it will blow your fuse.

Use your multimeter to check battery voltage with a ground.

allmazda

Also physical and visual check the egr gasket you put on to make sure it did not fall down after you put the first bolt in. That will cause a vacuum leak. It has happened to me before. Getting that second bolt lined up can be a pain due to the position it is in.

travelingjunk84

Thanks for all the reply's, I will switch the coil 1st thing in the morning and see if it follows the stall, If so, i have the old coils i can swap with. Freaking back and neck are killing me. ill double check the 12v on #4 as well.

travelingjunk84

I tried doing the paper clip on #4 but i am not sure if my multimeter is reading correctly. i have an INNOVA 3320 and it ranges.

The ebay injectors seem to be the problem though. I replaced #2 with an old injector i had that i am pretty sure i got from the dealer. Started the car and unplugged it and it started to stall. So #2 and #6 do that now but #4 doesn't. I think i will just return those and get new ones from RockAuto. Do you think this is the case?

allmazda

Honestly I would try Amazon for open box buys for Hitachi or Beck Arnley. At least for the front 3. For the back 3 try new Hitachi from Ebay. Just compare prices.

travelingjunk84

Alrighty finally got my OEM injectors plus the OEM O-rings and the OEM ignition coils and guess what. Fired up and stayed running. So dont buy Non-OEM injectors and coils from ebay to save some money. THANKS for all the help guys! Until next time!

CS_AR

Can you share with us the eBay seller where you purchased the bad coils and injectors?

We know there are some bad fish in the sea. Yet we also like to enjoy the good ones.

travelingjunk84

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-6-Pcs-F...72.m2748.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/set-of-6-ne...72.m2748.l2649

CS_AR

Thanks for sharing. Maybe others can avoid them.

KSSilence

I see you fixed your issue, but for future for everyone reference theres this:....

Protip: During cranking, if the Crank Sensor is sending a valid signal to the ECU, the Check Engine Light should go out if there are no other codes pending that turn the CEL on. If the CEL stays on during crank, then check for codes, and if none present (Knock Sensor codes don't count) then you should check the Crank Sensor.

The reason why the CEL behaves like this is because KOEO (Key on Engine off), the crank sensor isnt sending any signal back, so the ECU know's it present as its plugged in but it does not know if its working. Once the engine turns over and a valid signal is produced, the computer assumes its good and turns off the CEL. This is also why if the engine stalls out, the CEL comes on, because of the loss of CKP Signal. Because this situation is encountered every time you turn the key on, the ECU wont set a CKP code unless it is obviously missing (unplugged) or the circuit test fails (open circuit / broken wire).