97ABMAX

Like I posted in the other thread, We got the 6 bolts off of the first two flanges but the flange with the two bolts that bolt to the cat will not come off. Some of you have suggested a butane torch which sounds like a good idea. But is that such a good idea since we have been spraying WD 40 and liquid wrench on the bolts for the last three days? Is this going to blow up in my face or something?lol Damn Im glad that I didnt have any problems wiht installing my y-pipe but this one is really starting to **** me off. Let me know if you have any imput. Thanks

bhaske1

Once the WD40 dries you should be fine to torch the pipe off. Don't go nuts with the torch, just try to get the bolts hot enough to pound them out. Obviously don't reuse them.

nigelcmf

Dude! no problem! It's cake!

97ABMAX

Where should we point the torch, directly on the head of the bolt in between the flange or what? Thanks for the help! Take Care

bhaske1

Put a pair of vice grips on the head of the bolt.
Start torching the head of the bolt between the vice grips.
Pound of the opposite side of the bolt with a hammer.
If it starts to move keep on pouding, you probably just
have rust build up.
If it does not move, then torch the middle portions and keep pounding with the hammer.

Let me ask where is the best place to buy a Y pipe? I still have a stock 98 SE ?

Thanks!

97ABMAX

In my opinion the best place to get a y-pipe is Warpspeed they have great prices and excellent customer service. I love my y-pipe that I got from them it is definetely a huge improvement. its www.warpspeedperformance.com Its a good one. Take Care

bhaske1

Thanks!
Brian
bhaske1@yahoo.com

SuDZ

Exactly where I went for mine. I am also a 98 SE.

SuDZ

nigelcmf

"Pounding" seems a little excessive ... but it doesn't really hurt. You can heat up the nut first and apply the vice grips (after presetting them first), but his way works too!

bhaske1

The only thing your "pounding" is the non-headed (end) of the bolt. Your not heating the bolt so it won't deform. Your only forcing the issue and extracting the damn bolt, not doing your makeup. Plus its fun to play with fire, no?

Eric L.

If you have a long cheater bar, you can attach that to your socket wrench, and then try to pound the end of the cheater bar with a mallet. The torch should be last resort.

nigelcmf

More often than not (and I've done this MANY times) exhaust nuts and bolts are pretty tightly seized on even after spraying WD40. True, you should use force to begin with, but a regular wrench is what I would use. Using brute force to remove it is BAD. You either a) round off the nut - and have to use heat and replace the nut) or B you snap the thing clean off and you have to replace the nut AND bolt.

bhaske1

Come on! It does not appear the car that we are all talking about is on a lift in a heated garage somewhere. I would be willing to bet these guys are laying on their backs on the floor somewhere. And you want to bring in a prybar or cheater bar? A prybar that would give enough torque to push the frozen bolts out, while being inches from the ground? Pull out the torch, heat up the bolts and pull them out. Im going to bed, good luck. If all else fails, wait till morning and drive it to the local muffler shop. If they don't use a torch, then I will pay whatever they charge to remove it. HAVE FUN, thats the only thing!

nigelcmf

Hehe! don't want to argue dude! Your way works, man! You're right if you need to remove the bolt, but in his case he doesn't need to remove the bolt ... actually I think it's a stud and not a bolt to the CAT. Your method still works though!

Justin95SE

iTrader: (1)

no problems at all, but it sounds like this pipe is an exception.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

What is this cheater bar? Is this some kind of extension pipe that I use to get more torque. For the life o' me, I can't picture it from what you guys are saying. I can pic this up at a hardware store and they will know what a cheater bar is?

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

I could be wrong (always a possibility), but I think he's referring to a pipe you slide over either your ratchet or breaker-bar handle to gain more leverage on a bolt/nut.

Feel free to correct me. . .

97ABMAX

You couldnt be more right. We have the car up on ramps and have been lying on our backs on the cement. We cant use a creeper because it doesnt give us enough room to work. Keep in mind we are in COlorado and by the time I get off of work and get to work on the car its about 15degrees. My feet and hands get cold as hell even with gloves. Oh well, it will all be worth it for him I guess. We are gonna try the torch tonight because after I left my buddy went out there and tried to force it off and rounded off the nut, so we have to use a torch now. Take Care

Eric L.

That's correct. Also, you can buy a special long breaker-bar without a ratcheting end (but still holds a socket) for this purpose.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the cheater explanation.

Uncooperative nuts/bolts has been the bane of my modding experiences so any help I can get on the hardware side is good to know about.

ericdwong

Cat bolts are notorious for getting seized. I had a nut siezed on once and I used a road flare to heat it up. You heat up the flange, to expand it, then it should bust loose. As for the WD-40, don't worry about it blowing up. While it is flammable, it isnt explosive like gasoline is.

Another alternative is to hammer on a socket then take an air impact wrench to it. Make sure you put plenty of anti seize on the threaded parts when you go to put it back in.