Suspension noise with sharp bumps
 

I've never driven another Maxima and got my 97 when it was 17 years old already so I'm not sure what the 4th gen ride quality is supposed to be like.
What is bothering me is the sharp noise I get when hitting sharp bumps like ------_-----_---- (think idiotic raised lane markings or broken pavement); it's not a clunk and it's not a thud, so I'm going to call it a sharp thunk. Other mellow road irregularities like -----~-----~--- do not prompt the thunk (only the squeaking of ES bushings if the amplitude is great enough).
In my mind, the sharp bumps should produce a subdued thud, which would be acceptable. The thunk is worse with higher tire inflation pressures (I'm running 30 psi front, 28 psi back for the time being).
Was this (thunk) how the 4th gen rode when new?
I'm running 205/65R15 tires, the front strut/coil assembly should be original. ES bushings were installed for the control arms, sway bar and sway bar end links.

I installed ES bushings, and one of them tore after a couple of months - you might want to inspect them. I moved back to OEM.

I haven't had one tear yet, but I'll be keeping an eye out.
The thunk isn't a new development, it was like this when I bought the car - all 17 year old stock suspension.
It isn't a noise inspiring imminent failure, more like a lack of bushing insulation - my hunch is the subframe bushings. I'm hoping someone remebers how the car rode when new.
If I drive a newer car, then get back in the Maxima I notice it right away.

Are the struts and strut mounts 17 years old? Is the car an SE, GLE, or GXE?

My suspension was making loud popping/creaking noises at lower speeds/bumps. Ended up being the strut mounts.

I believe they are 21 years old now, they'll be 22 in 2 months :)
The car is a 97 GXE auto.

Undoubtedly, the cause/root of your suspension noise is this.

22 years is asking way too much for struts to keep going forever for 4th Gens.

IOW.... You're way OVERDUE! LOL

If you're going to keep the car for a longer time, don't let yourself be drawn to the dark side and use "Quick type Struts".

Rebuild yours with OEM parts. The only other than OEM parts acceptable (for another 22 years) are quality Struts and Springs. Everything else OEM.

Whichever model you have, use the OEM parts for the "SE" model. It's only one different part (front, each side) that costs $12 more and it's considerably better.

CS_AR and I use different Spring Insulator material as well for the ultimate setup. You might want to consider that for the extra quiet. Rebuilding is expensive with OEM parts, but once done RIGHT, you'll be so glad you did! And if you do it yourself, you'll save hundreds of dollars.

Hope this helps!

BTW, if your struts haven't been done, you probably need to look at Lower Control Arm Assemblies (two for front) ffor a complete refresh.

Thanks for the replies!
I'm running the original LCAs, but the bushings are ES (done 6 months ago).
I assume you mean Tein for Spring Insulator material. I will be keeping the original springs, so the only place I would use them would be at the lower contact to the strut.
I have been intending to change the struts, that is why I started this thread, to see what extras I might need.
The strut mounts look OK, no cracks on the top rubber, and there's minimal movement of the rubber when bouncing the car.
I know about Craig's KYB bump stop thread, and I guess this question is for him: would the SE strut mount fit on the GXE/GLE basket and bearing?

I'd like to change only the rubber parts:
-struts
-rubber top spring insulator
-Tein or maybe just some Home Depot clear hose for the spring to bottom of strut contact
-Fel-Pro 3157 DIY gaskets

I haven't decided whether to also change the strut mounts and strut boots (some people don't seem to think the boots are that important).

Is there anyone that has used the Gabriel Ultra front struts? As you might know, the bottom holes that mount to the knuckle are elongated presenting a challenge regarding camber.

I'm not sure where you got this ... camber is non-adjustable on the 4th Gen.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....34f2148fb5.jpg

This is what I mean:

So this is what CS_AR and I used on the Coil Springs as Insulators. Bulletproof!:
Here's the thread about what we did using the Koni STR-T (orange) struts. I got all four for a steal. Like $275 for all four using a rebate and shopping around. HIGHLY recommended!

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...op-bottom.html

We also used 1/8" Neoprene and made them ourselves, for Strut Gaskets to quiet the suspension even more.
This really is the ultimate option with better handling and yet still comfortable ride and quietest roads.

Hope this helps!

Quick struts are awesome :)

Monroe quick struts are about $300 for the set of 4. Very easy to install, and you don't have to mess with a spring compressor! They are the best choice if you just want OE replacement for regular everyday driving.

If you prefer something high performance, you can get the Tokico Illumina on eBay for about $400 for the set of 4.

@Turbobink, ebay item #251668926730 :)

Do yourself a favor in whatever you do. Do NOT install the Monroe quick struts.

Ask me how I know.

Thank you for the links!
Instead of installing one foot piece and wrestling with heat shrink tubing, why didn't you cut it into sections? I imagine it would have been easier to install.

Can someone with SE springs please measure the diameter of the coil wire?
I'm only doing the fronts (I replaced the rear struts 4 years ago with Gabriel struts) and will be keeping the stock springs so no lowering. I'm leaning towards KYB Excel-G struts, as I can get both front ones for the price of one Koni STR.T or Tokico Illumina. The Tokico HP seem like unicorns at this point.
For strut mounts, it seems like the Nissan ones are $53 (yikes) at Courtesy, do you know of any cheaper dealers?

The reason I didn't cut the tubing into shorter lengths is because I'm a perfectionist and wanted zero chance for it to fail sooner. The front top and bottom pieces of heat shrink tubing were 33" long each for the front on OEM SE Springs.

Amazon has the Front Koni STR-T struts for $121.38 each shipped. Koni has a lifetime warranty.

SE Strut Mounts: Always take the "Nissan and Part number" (Nissan 54320-40U02) and enter it into Google and find best shipped price for OEM.

You also need OEM Strut Bearings Nissan 54325-5V000. You need two so shop for best price delivered to your location.

And new OEM other rubber parts for a brand new feel. Anything with rubber, no matter how much we want to believe they are fine, are truly a consumable and need replacing when strut assemblies need rebuilding. Bearings too. All Consumable. And that means new OEM bellows too.

A year and a half ago, "93SCMax" had a set of 98 SE springs for sale that are as clean as you can ever hope for. PM him if you want them. He might still have them.

By the time I was done with new everything, a spring compressor kit, used springs from CS_AR (very reasonable), the total cost was approaching 4900 with me doing everything myself all four corners. I spent way more than that buying three rounds of noisy and failing crap to get there. Money well spent..... FINALLY. Better than new. GR2s were the first time around. Rode like solid poles with no absorption. The mechanic replaced them free after he drove it after over 1 year. Hopefully those KYBs aren't like the GR2s. HORRIBLE!

When you're done, hopefully you'll have this:


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima....839df0e27f.jpg

So, my gritty springs coils are a measured 14.1 mm, which rhymes with the 13.9 mm specified in the FSM for Auto springs. I can't find anything in the FSM about the SE having diferent springs. The driver side ride height seems to be 1/4" lower than the passenger side, I'll switch the springs side to side.

@KP11520 for heatshring tubing I would go with the larger size, to hopefully save hours on the install :) .


For the gasket, I want to use the more affordable

I used the 0750 and 1100 Canusa Heat shrink tubing. When done, they looked identical. The 1100 was harder to manage as it took more heat to shrink to the smaller size and keep twists from happening.

Gasket material? Go for it. So far the Neoprene I bought did my car and CS_AR's with no problems. Maybe find a smaller piece. Neoprene is a little more resistant to oil and gasoline. A little.

Driver's side spring being shorter means you weigh too much! LOL (J/K)

Good for you! Quiet and short bump noise rules! Better handling as well.

Thanks for all the replies and help!

So far I have ordered:
OEM SE strut mounts ($78 for the pair)
NOS Sachs from ebay ($50 for the pair)
rubber gasket sheet ($8)
8ft 3/4" heavy heat shrink tubing ($20) https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Feet-Heav...53.m2749.l2649

I still haven't ordered the strut bearings, bellows and spring seat insulators (what a racket these are).

As far as the bellows are concerned, it seems GXE are specced with 54050-31U02, while GLE and SE are specced with 54050-38U02. All versions are specced with the same 54040-31U02 spring seat. Kind of weird.

54050-31U02 seems to have the integrated bumpstop - I still have those on the car, the bumpstops are broken and cracked, just like the bellows.
54050-38U02 seems to have a separate bumpstop judging from Craig's photos.

Update: I ordered 2x the strut bearings, 54050-38U02 bellows and spring seat insulators ($138 shipped)

For installing the heat shrink tubing, I took a shortcut and put mine in a hot oven for a few minutes. You can watch the material start to shrink up get to where you can work with it and stretch it around the spring.

Thanks for the tip, did you use any lube or water? I might try some hot water.

I made a mix of water with corn starch (slime) and small amount of liquid dish soap. I wanted something water based where the water would evaporate and not leave something that would lead damaging the heat shrink material.

6 days ago, I did the dirty deed, it took me 11 hours, and I had the gaskets cut ahead of time.
The old mounts were fine, one bearing had 1 crack at the edge, another was fine. Both bearings seem to operate fine, amazing how those little plastics can hold so much weight. The spring seat insulators were not hardened (neither was the rubber on the old mounts), but one of them had a hole where the coil end sits. The frugal could have reused them by having the coil end sit in another spot. The frugal could have reused the mounts and 1 bearing. But I had all the parts ($230 worth) so replaced everything.
Being skinny, compressing and decompresing coils twice was a pain, especially because I had to use a spanner - a socket had no clearance on at least one side. I also had to add a third compressor at times.
I cleaned and painted the coils and spring seats.
I ended up lubing the spring with dielectric grease, held the spring with my thighs and with both hands I was able to slide the heatshrink rather easily (this was my worst fear about the job).
Heatshrinking was a killer, I did not expect that amount of work and time spent, easily 2-3 hours; amazingly the HF heatgun survived the ordeal. I used 24" of the heavy heatshrink on the bottoms, 12" of heavy heatshrink on the tops, but past the first loop. I used some 3/4" Temco heatshrink on the first top loop, much thinner, but maybe enough. The first top loop contacts the rubber insulator, just a reminder.
I had contemplated filing the end of the top coil, to make it more flush where it would contact itself, but forgot about it, as I was stressed about not finishing up on time (friends garage, had my 3 year old with me, mental wife at home).
I ended up with Sachs SuperTouring front struts (290086 and 290087) - the brake hose bracket did not fit, so some PITA enlargement and filing was needed. Unlike some photos online, these old stock ones (I believe made in 06 and 07) did not have elongated mounting holes fortunately.
At first, the ride was pretty rough, more thunk than before. After a few days and some less 3 psi in the tires, the struts gave in more and ride is better (or I just accepted it). I can definitely say there is a difference in larger potholes for the better, more a thud, and less vibrations, not sure whether from the heatshrink or just the new struts.
Of course, with new struts, the Cadillac ride is gone, but the handling is more confidence inspiring, less nose dive etc.
Ride height is about 1/2" higher in the front, but there is still a 1/8" ride height difference left to right. I may not measure the ride height in ideal conditions though.
Springs seem stiffer, I don't know how much of that is the heatshrink and how much is new struts.
I am trying to get a free alignment check soon.

Thanks for all the help, especially KP11520 and CS_AR!

Good for you! Remember it will all settle into place after a while. Heat shrink won't affect ride. That's the struts. an 1/8" is negligible.

And next time use Sex Lube on the springs and heat shrink. It changes the whole experience to almost enjoyable. LOL