Thread Starter
Alright, I’m starting to think the forum has had enough of my posts!
Regardless, it’s been snowing like crazy out here in good ole Minnesota, so far the snow has knocked a hole in my exhaust, prolonged the rust development on my quarter panels and front bumper, and showed me how bad my CV’s are. But the snow has shown me a new development. After getting snowed in by snow plows, seemingly digging myself out for an hour all to still be getting stuck by the ice below my wheels, I noticed that after I had gotten myself out, I went to check the snow below my engine because I’ve been skeptical ever since I bought this car always worried about something haha. Besides, what could be wrong? Well it turns out it may be a coolant leak, in the snow there was a couple green spots that seemed to be in the radiator area, I don’t think it’s in the water pump area, as it was in the front of the car. I didn’t look too well in my engine bay as it’s cold as all hell and I know something was dripping, ive smelled this coolant before in other cars one in particular was a heavily modified civic Coolant was bubbling out of the overflow, granted this isn’t what’s happening with my max, it does smell the same, warm coolant...what should my next step be? My coolant overflow is pretty low...but it’s at the minimum line, it also seems to only be doing it while I’m driving it.
Regardless, it’s been snowing like crazy out here in good ole Minnesota, so far the snow has knocked a hole in my exhaust, prolonged the rust development on my quarter panels and front bumper, and showed me how bad my CV’s are. But the snow has shown me a new development. After getting snowed in by snow plows, seemingly digging myself out for an hour all to still be getting stuck by the ice below my wheels, I noticed that after I had gotten myself out, I went to check the snow below my engine because I’ve been skeptical ever since I bought this car always worried about something haha. Besides, what could be wrong? Well it turns out it may be a coolant leak, in the snow there was a couple green spots that seemed to be in the radiator area, I don’t think it’s in the water pump area, as it was in the front of the car. I didn’t look too well in my engine bay as it’s cold as all hell and I know something was dripping, ive smelled this coolant before in other cars one in particular was a heavily modified civic Coolant was bubbling out of the overflow, granted this isn’t what’s happening with my max, it does smell the same, warm coolant...what should my next step be? My coolant overflow is pretty low...but it’s at the minimum line, it also seems to only be doing it while I’m driving it.
Thread Starter
Quote:
yeah i was wondering the same thing, its so hard to figure out what is what without being able to get under the car, i guess ill double check rad hose when i get a chance.Originally Posted by Rit
Need new radiator, or hose to radiator is loose. My bet is on the need for a new radiator.
Senior Member
check the seams where the metal meets the plastic top/bottom of the radiator and you can maybe see the leak. its likely the rad itself, hoses usually just give and cause a massive leak
Member
Check out a cooling system pressure tester from your local parts store's loan-a-tool program. This will tell you were your leak(s) are. It's leaking while driving as you are naturally building pressure within the system and the leak exposes itself. The car cools and the leak contracts, no or less leakage.
Senior Member
Radiators are available on amazon and ebay for reasonable money.
might as well replace the upper and lower rad hose while you are in there anyway.
Many membera have had overheating issues because our original radiators are reaching the end of their service life.
might as well replace the upper and lower rad hose while you are in there anyway.
Many membera have had overheating issues because our original radiators are reaching the end of their service life.
Thread Starter
Quote:
might as well replace the upper and lower rad hose while you are in there anyway.
Many membera have had overheating issues because our original radiators are reaching the end of their service life.
ill check those out, the leak doesn’t se to be too bad? Haven’t quite gaged it but I do have an off question, what’s the running temp on our max’s? I had my scanner running on dashboard that shows engine temp and a bunch of other items, temp was slowly going up and when I had shut it off was at 197 F Originally Posted by JvG
Radiators are available on amazon and ebay for reasonable money.might as well replace the upper and lower rad hose while you are in there anyway.
Many membera have had overheating issues because our original radiators are reaching the end of their service life.
Senior Member
The temperature shows about normal.
The radiator might be able to handle winter temperatures. But will not be able to handle summer temperatures.
Several members have blown head gaskets because they had put off replacing a radiator.
Some of them had experienced cooling issues for some time before engine failure.
The radiator might be able to handle winter temperatures. But will not be able to handle summer temperatures.
Several members have blown head gaskets because they had put off replacing a radiator.
Some of them had experienced cooling issues for some time before engine failure.
Thread Starter
Quote:
The radiator might be able to handle winter temperatures. But will not be able to handle summer temperatures.
Several members have blown head gaskets because they had put off replacing a radiator.
Some of them had experienced cooling issues for some time before engine failure.
temp has always been at half on the dash cluster and I’ve searched around but putting in running temp hasn’t really helped me figure out what normal running temp is for the max.Originally Posted by JvG
The temperature shows about normal.The radiator might be able to handle winter temperatures. But will not be able to handle summer temperatures.
Several members have blown head gaskets because they had put off replacing a radiator.
Some of them had experienced cooling issues for some time before engine failure.
Member
Max temp should be what your t-stat is rated for. Once the t-stat opens the rad dissipates the excess heat. AN OBD II scanner should give you coolant temp or a $30 non-contact IR temp gun from a store like Harbor Freight can give you instant reads up and down your cooling system. Honestly changing the rad, if that's where your leak is coming from, on these cars is about a 30 minute or 1 beer job. But first confirm the origin of your leak(s).
Thread Starter
Quote:
I have a scanner giving me the 197 temp, but isn’t that based on the internal thermo anyway? So if that was acting strange wouldn’t the reading be null regardless?Originally Posted by M in KC
Max temp should be what your t-stat is rated for. Once the t-stat opens the rad dissipates the excess heat. AN OBD II scanner should give you coolant temp or a $30 non-contact IR temp gun from a store like Harbor Freight can give you instant reads up and down your cooling system. Honestly changing the rad, if that's where your leak is coming from, on these cars is about a 30 minute or 1 beer job. But first confirm the origin of your leak(s).
Senior Member
Sure, you could measure the temperature of the water in there. You are trying to justify saving some money by not replacing something which is leaking.
Which might be a loose hose connection or a bad radiator.
Spring will he here soon. Your leaking cooling system might harm the engine. That's why it needs your attention.
look at radiator and coolant hosea on places like Rock Auto, Ebay, Amazon.
I wouldn't buy the cheapest radiators. Adequate ones are less than 100 dollars.
You will need to research how to install the parts, then bleed air from the system..
Which might be a loose hose connection or a bad radiator.
Spring will he here soon. Your leaking cooling system might harm the engine. That's why it needs your attention.
look at radiator and coolant hosea on places like Rock Auto, Ebay, Amazon.
I wouldn't buy the cheapest radiators. Adequate ones are less than 100 dollars.
You will need to research how to install the parts, then bleed air from the system..