Front ABS sensor tests?
03-30-2019, 02:27 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,564
Front ABS sensor tests?
I saw on YT to hook up a Voltmeter (AC) to the sensor output plug and see if spinning the axle gives more voltage as it spins faster.
I also see people talking about how many Ohms between the 2 wire connections. Some said 800 to 1.2K ohms.
Anybody know if this is true for 4th Gen Maxima front sensors? Getting 0 ohms on the front right. I'm going to unbury the driver's side connector under the MAF box and all and see what that delivers. See if I find any differences. And I'll check in here for responses.
1999 Maxima SE loaded like a GLE with ABS and TCS with slip, ABS and TCS off lights on. Nissan sensors are too expensive ($160+) to replace unless determined bad. Intermotor are even moore expensive. I'm afraid to buy the Chinese cheapos from eBay.
EDIT, for reference: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ff-lights.html
No, I'm not removing the bulbs from the cluster.
I also see people talking about how many Ohms between the 2 wire connections. Some said 800 to 1.2K ohms.
Anybody know if this is true for 4th Gen Maxima front sensors? Getting 0 ohms on the front right. I'm going to unbury the driver's side connector under the MAF box and all and see what that delivers. See if I find any differences. And I'll check in here for responses.
1999 Maxima SE loaded like a GLE with ABS and TCS with slip, ABS and TCS off lights on. Nissan sensors are too expensive ($160+) to replace unless determined bad. Intermotor are even moore expensive. I'm afraid to buy the Chinese cheapos from eBay.
EDIT, for reference: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ff-lights.html
No, I'm not removing the bulbs from the cluster.
Last edited by KP11520; 04-19-2019 at 11:59 AM.
04-19-2019, 11:55 AM
#2
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,564
Nobody replied, I guess those with experience and/or knowledge have moved on.
So here's what I did.......
I tried to get an OHMs reading from the plug of the ABS sensor. I got zero which meant it was shorted or my probe lead ends didn't go deep enough into the plug. (PITA when attached to the car where it's located) But I was leaning towards shorted. However I didn't want to spend $168 for a new OEM to find out it wasn't shorted.
Much cheaper way to test it was to buy this which would work on both sides (for testing) so I offered $14 and had it in a few days.https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ABS-WHE...72.m2749.l2649 Unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one without swapping anything else with the new one still in the bag. Started the car and no ABS, Slip or TCS off, lights. Now I can order a new OEM confidently. When removing the old original OEM, they almost always get destroyed so that's why I didn't want to touch it until confirmed. Now to remove the bolt that holds it in. The head sheared right off. Thankfully, it's not a deep area of thread marry and I can spray penetrating lube from both sides and use vise grips or drill/easy out. AND... only SS bolts with anti-seize thread compound from now on. Manufacturers should charge $200 more and employ this on every connection from the factory. Keep your fancy whatever tuned BS and give me something real that will help me keep my car right.
So here's what I did.......
I tried to get an OHMs reading from the plug of the ABS sensor. I got zero which meant it was shorted or my probe lead ends didn't go deep enough into the plug. (PITA when attached to the car where it's located) But I was leaning towards shorted. However I didn't want to spend $168 for a new OEM to find out it wasn't shorted.
Much cheaper way to test it was to buy this which would work on both sides (for testing) so I offered $14 and had it in a few days.https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ABS-WHE...72.m2749.l2649 Unplugged the old one and plugged in the new one without swapping anything else with the new one still in the bag. Started the car and no ABS, Slip or TCS off, lights. Now I can order a new OEM confidently. When removing the old original OEM, they almost always get destroyed so that's why I didn't want to touch it until confirmed. Now to remove the bolt that holds it in. The head sheared right off. Thankfully, it's not a deep area of thread marry and I can spray penetrating lube from both sides and use vise grips or drill/easy out. AND... only SS bolts with anti-seize thread compound from now on. Manufacturers should charge $200 more and employ this on every connection from the factory. Keep your fancy whatever tuned BS and give me something real that will help me keep my car right.
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