A/C Compressor Noise
A/C Compressor Noise
Hey fellas, I have a '96 Maxima GLE auto with about 275k miles on it. The A/C compressor pulley has been making a roaring noise as if the bearings are going bad, it's been this way for about 70k and I've successfully ignored it, but it seems it might be getting a bit louder as of late. I've narrowed it down to the compressor because if I engage the AC, the volume of the sound decreases by about 75%. At this point I can't keep putting it off and need suggestions on how to fix this. Is the pulley or clutch assembly itself able to be replaced, or does the whole compressor need switched out? How bad a job is this-- I notice most things on the accessory side of the engine are packed pretty tight in there, I'm hoping this job isn't a nightmare. Any info, suggestions, tips, etc. would be greatly appreciated!
If yours is like most, the pulley bearing is gone out on the compressor.
Replacing just the AC compressor clutch and pulley assembly is possible in the vehicle. It is tight but it can be done.
But I would advise replacing the entire compressor if it has that many miles on it. Just to be safe, because internal failure is not far down the road in my opinion.
Replacing just the AC compressor clutch and pulley assembly is possible in the vehicle. It is tight but it can be done.
But I would advise replacing the entire compressor if it has that many miles on it. Just to be safe, because internal failure is not far down the road in my opinion.
'96 GLE 275000 miles...it's worth under $500 retail. Edmunds lists the trade in value at roughly $24. Humorously, you could double the Trade in value by having a full tank of gas. If it still runs OK, and the AC is still working, I say just ride this thing into the ground. ANY money you put into repairs will not help the value of the car, it's quite literally worthless. What I'm saying, you were fine ignoring it for 70,000 miles, just keep ignoring it, and start saving money for a replacement vehicle with a lot less miles.
'96 GLE 275000 miles...it's worth under $500 retail. Edmunds lists the trade in value at roughly $24. Humorously, you could double the Trade in value by having a full tank of gas. If it still runs OK, and the AC is still working, I say just ride this thing into the ground. ANY money you put into repairs will not help the value of the car, it's quite literally worthless. What I'm saying, you were fine ignoring it for 70,000 miles, just keep ignoring it, and start saving money for a replacement vehicle with a lot less miles.
Last edited by QuakerJ; Nov 6, 2019 at 03:56 PM. Reason: spelling
If yours is like most, the pulley bearing is gone out on the compressor.
Replacing just the AC compressor clutch and pulley assembly is possible in the vehicle. It is tight but it can be done.
But I would advise replacing the entire compressor if it has that many miles on it. Just to be safe, because internal failure is not far down the road in my opinion.
Replacing just the AC compressor clutch and pulley assembly is possible in the vehicle. It is tight but it can be done.
But I would advise replacing the entire compressor if it has that many miles on it. Just to be safe, because internal failure is not far down the road in my opinion.
I couldn't care less about the car's value--- The value in the car, to me, is a decent (good power, comfort, gas mileage etc.) reliable commuter car that keeps miles off my much more expensive vehicles in the driveway. It's been perfect in that role for quite some time and not easily replaced. I am confident I can hop in the car tomorrow and drive to California and back (sparing the A/C compressor noise) without a hiccup. It's that kind of car. Since 200k I've replaced a water pump and a few worn suspension components, small potatoes. I do all the work on my vehicles myself. I could replace it with a $3k car to serve the same purpose, but why? Over a $200 A/C compressor and a few hours of my time?
If you think you can swap the compressor and recharge the system for under $200, I wish you luck. New part has gotta be 2x that, and the recharge is a material and tool cost if you don't have, You may need to replace a few other things, normally a dryer is replaced when you evacuate a system. But $200 is a pipe dream. Also, I don't know the engine bay, but isn't this compressor under the engine and not on top? That's a job and a half. Likely 3-4 hours labor at a dealership start to finish. expect to spend a couple days driving the other car while you sort out this one.
If you think you can swap the compressor and recharge the system for under $200, I wish you luck. New part has gotta be 2x that, and the recharge is a material and tool cost if you don't have, You may need to replace a few other things, normally a dryer is replaced when you evacuate a system. But $200 is a pipe dream. Also, I don't know the engine bay, but isn't this compressor under the engine and not on top? That's a job and a half. Likely 3-4 hours labor at a dealership start to finish. expect to spend a couple days driving the other car while you sort out this one.
Also from Rock Auto concerning warranty coverage of a compressor:
"12 months. IMPORTANT A/C COMPRESSOR WARRANTY NOTE: In order to ensure that proper warranty credit is issued if needed, the compressor installation instructions must be adhered to. All compressors returned for defect must show proof of purchase of an A/C Orifice Tube (or A/C Expansion Valve), A/C Receiver Drier/Accumulator, and A/C System Flush or a Work Order showing the purchase of these items and that the system was flushed."
Several parts are mentioned, to include the system flush, and of course you'll still need refrigerant, and a gauge system. Also including shipping costs and applicable tax if taxed, plus I'm seeing some of them in the low $200's, and some in the High $200s, so I stand by my statement, it's going to be impossible to do this for under $200. Under $400 will be a challenge.
"12 months. IMPORTANT A/C COMPRESSOR WARRANTY NOTE: In order to ensure that proper warranty credit is issued if needed, the compressor installation instructions must be adhered to. All compressors returned for defect must show proof of purchase of an A/C Orifice Tube (or A/C Expansion Valve), A/C Receiver Drier/Accumulator, and A/C System Flush or a Work Order showing the purchase of these items and that the system was flushed."
Several parts are mentioned, to include the system flush, and of course you'll still need refrigerant, and a gauge system. Also including shipping costs and applicable tax if taxed, plus I'm seeing some of them in the low $200's, and some in the High $200s, so I stand by my statement, it's going to be impossible to do this for under $200. Under $400 will be a challenge.
I think you're being needlessly negative to win an argument. But, you're right, it wouldn't be under $200. I think in the neighborhood of $250 would be easily doable. Much, much less if I needed to save money and gamble on a junkyard / used working pull. Not concerned with compressor warranty, and drier replacement is typically only required if the system is open and exposed to atmosphere for > 24 hours. (or if there's metal debris in the system from an internal failure in the compressor, which is not the case here). I'll likely replace the drier anyways since it's such an inexpensive part.
I already have an HVAC manifold gauge set and a 2-stage vacuum pump. For those that don't know, you can also get these at Autozone via their loan-a-tool, though I can't vouch for the quality, having never used them. The only thing I need a mechanic for is to evacuate the refrigerant, and there's one nearby that will do it for $20.
The whole impetus of this repair is to keep the accessory belt moving, battery charging, etc. and not have the A/C compressor pulley suddenly seizing one day. If the A/C stops blowing cold air 6 months from now, as long as that pulley is still turning, I'm not complaining! I realize everything else in the system is 23 years old, I'm not going to put mountains of money into A/C which I hardly use.
I was more curious how tough a job the actual compressor removal & reinstall might be-- or if replacing just the clutch is as or more difficult than the entire compressor. Still on the fence whether I want to replace the whole compressor or not-- knowing the difficultly between replacing clutch/pulley & that of the whole compressor would be nice to know, as spending more money on the whole compressor would be well spent if it will save a ton of frustration.
I already have an HVAC manifold gauge set and a 2-stage vacuum pump. For those that don't know, you can also get these at Autozone via their loan-a-tool, though I can't vouch for the quality, having never used them. The only thing I need a mechanic for is to evacuate the refrigerant, and there's one nearby that will do it for $20.
The whole impetus of this repair is to keep the accessory belt moving, battery charging, etc. and not have the A/C compressor pulley suddenly seizing one day. If the A/C stops blowing cold air 6 months from now, as long as that pulley is still turning, I'm not complaining! I realize everything else in the system is 23 years old, I'm not going to put mountains of money into A/C which I hardly use.
I was more curious how tough a job the actual compressor removal & reinstall might be-- or if replacing just the clutch is as or more difficult than the entire compressor. Still on the fence whether I want to replace the whole compressor or not-- knowing the difficultly between replacing clutch/pulley & that of the whole compressor would be nice to know, as spending more money on the whole compressor would be well spent if it will save a ton of frustration.
So if I understand you correctly, you're more concerned with the pulley going out and stranding you then the actual AC...makes sense. That said, if you fix the AC the way it's supposed to be fixed, evacuation, flush, dryer, expansion valve, new compressor not used proper charge...it's not gonna cost much more then a mickey mouse job of just swapping the compressor quick recharge and hope for the best. At least do it right, and reap the benefits.
Evacuate, replace compressor, drier, hold vacuum in the system, refill with correct charge and call it a day. The above is not mickey-moused, it’s standard procedure for a previously sealed, uncontaminated system and the most cost effective way of doing it.
The extra procedures you listed apply when the compressor has had an internal failure and spread junk throughout the system.
Not to sustain a pissing contest, but understand that replacing a compressor that hasn’t failed internally is functionally no different than replacing a condenser or any other component.
The extra procedures you listed apply when the compressor has had an internal failure and spread junk throughout the system.
Not to sustain a pissing contest, but understand that replacing a compressor that hasn’t failed internally is functionally no different than replacing a condenser or any other component.
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ionicmax
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Sep 27, 2001 01:37 PM




Just what I needed.
