Anyone have recent experience with cheap eBay/amazon clutch?
07-14-2020, 12:52 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 59
Anyone have recent experience with cheap eBay/amazon clutch?
When I first got my car I installed an exedy oem clutch, does the job but I've always felt that it doesn't grip enough (more so in higher gears & higher speeds, and also high temps).
For years I've considered a stage 1, but at nearly $400 for an exedy... that's just not happening.
The question is, has anybody used a cheap clutch as the links listed below, and did you like how they handle? Obviously I would get a better throw out bearing to pair with.
note this isn't for racing, just a fun get-around car.
For years I've considered a stage 1, but at nearly $400 for an exedy... that's just not happening.
The question is, has anybody used a cheap clutch as the links listed below, and did you like how they handle? Obviously I would get a better throw out bearing to pair with.
note this isn't for racing, just a fun get-around car.
07-14-2020, 05:24 PM
#2
I tried looking up the company for that clutch (efortissimo) but they don’t even have a website. Your choice man, it’s your time and money. You’re gonna pull a trans to install a unknown cheap clutch. You want the performance but don’t want to pay for it. I just installed a OEM Exedy clutch and it grips just fine, low rpm, high rpm, doesn’t matter.
You say it’s not a race car, my opinion, leave the clutch alone until it’s time to replace or when you’re ready to pay for a decent clutch.
You say it’s not a race car, my opinion, leave the clutch alone until it’s time to replace or when you’re ready to pay for a decent clutch.
07-14-2020, 09:24 PM
#3
$232 for OEM (dont get the value advantage stuff)
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...ase_parts.html
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...ase_parts.html
07-15-2020, 09:31 AM
#4
$232 for OEM (dont get the value advantage stuff)
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...ase_parts.html
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...ase_parts.html
07-15-2020, 10:28 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
I don't know enough to recommend the kind of clutch you are looking for at a cheap price.
I have replaced several clutches over the years.
Replacing a clutch is a Royal PITA.
I always sacrifice if necessary to buy top quality stuff so that I won't have a Royal PITA experience a second time.
It's your money, and your sore muscles.
Choose wisely.
I have replaced several clutches over the years.
Replacing a clutch is a Royal PITA.
I always sacrifice if necessary to buy top quality stuff so that I won't have a Royal PITA experience a second time.
It's your money, and your sore muscles.
Choose wisely.
07-15-2020, 02:47 PM
#6
So you currently have a fully working exedy clutch in your car. But you just don't like the "grip" of the clutch at high speeds. To remedy this, you want to buy the cheapest clutch you can find and hope that it "grips" better than the exedy? Sounds like you're about to light $100 on fire as well as all the time you will waste with the install (assuming you are doing this yourself).
There's an old adage that says "Buy the best that you can afford and you will only cry once, if you can't afford the best, save until you can" My opinion is, wait till you can afford the correct tried and true clutch. If you have waited this long, stash $50 away each month and in 8 month you've got yourself $400.
There's an old adage that says "Buy the best that you can afford and you will only cry once, if you can't afford the best, save until you can" My opinion is, wait till you can afford the correct tried and true clutch. If you have waited this long, stash $50 away each month and in 8 month you've got yourself $400.
07-16-2020, 09:30 AM
#7
See this quote below...
OP never mentioned any mods, so it really doesnt sound like he needs a 'stage 1'.
Its either slipping or its not, and now hes looking at cheap-o clutches that a rebranding company slapped a 'Stage 1' sticker on?
It sounds like he either has a defective clutch, didn't bed it in properly, or burnt it out by excessive slippage, or its just old and worn.
Bingo!
OP never mentioned any mods, so it really doesnt sound like he needs a 'stage 1'.
Its either slipping or its not, and now hes looking at cheap-o clutches that a rebranding company slapped a 'Stage 1' sticker on?
It sounds like he either has a defective clutch, didn't bed it in properly, or burnt it out by excessive slippage, or its just old and worn.
So you currently have a fully working exedy clutch in your car. But you just don't like the "grip" of the clutch at high speeds. To remedy this, you want to buy the cheapest clutch you can find and hope that it "grips" better than the exedy? Sounds like you're about to light $100 on fire as well as all the time you will waste with the install (assuming you are doing this yourself).
There's an old adage that says "Buy the best that you can afford and you will only cry once, if you can't afford the best, save until you can" My opinion is, wait till you can afford the correct tried and true clutch. If you have waited this long, stash $50 away each month and in 8 month you've got yourself $400.
There's an old adage that says "Buy the best that you can afford and you will only cry once, if you can't afford the best, save until you can" My opinion is, wait till you can afford the correct tried and true clutch. If you have waited this long, stash $50 away each month and in 8 month you've got yourself $400.
07-16-2020, 02:27 PM
#8
Or his rear main seal is leaking and glazed the friction surface with enough oil to feel like its slipping... been there, done that. Do it right, do it once. I put in just an exedy organic when i did mine... haven't had any higher gear "slipping" with it...
07-18-2020, 03:58 PM
#9
My exedy stage 1 was the best clutch I've driven for a 5mt.
More than enough clutch for whatever n/a power any 3.0 has ever out down. Ever.
It died because my 5mt input shaft bearing took a dump, wore the input shaft seal out and leaked gear oil onto the clutch, then started slipping in high gears. And got to the point to where 3rd was slipping and then I 6mt swapped the car and forever hated the garbage can that's known as our 5mt.
#6mtswaptheworld
Now...... If you wanna be cheap.... And you're sure you have the exdstg1...... Just get a new disc (im not sure if exedy sells the stg1 disc alone, but you can get an ACT disc for not too much). Lightly sand the PP and flywheel and send it!
More than enough clutch for whatever n/a power any 3.0 has ever out down. Ever.
It died because my 5mt input shaft bearing took a dump, wore the input shaft seal out and leaked gear oil onto the clutch, then started slipping in high gears. And got to the point to where 3rd was slipping and then I 6mt swapped the car and forever hated the garbage can that's known as our 5mt.
#6mtswaptheworld
Now...... If you wanna be cheap.... And you're sure you have the exdstg1...... Just get a new disc (im not sure if exedy sells the stg1 disc alone, but you can get an ACT disc for not too much). Lightly sand the PP and flywheel and send it!
Last edited by aackshun; 07-18-2020 at 04:01 PM.
07-18-2020, 05:18 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Regarding a possible oil soaked clutch disk and having limited funds.
I'm reminded of some information I read in
VW Repair For The Complete Idiot long ago.
Brake fluid could soak brake shoes if there was a leak.
One could soak the brake shoe in gasoline, then light it on fire.
I suppose that a clutch disk could be rescued the same way. The gasoline would convert any oil contamination to ash.
I'm reminded of some information I read in
VW Repair For The Complete Idiot long ago.
Brake fluid could soak brake shoes if there was a leak.
One could soak the brake shoe in gasoline, then light it on fire.
I suppose that a clutch disk could be rescued the same way. The gasoline would convert any oil contamination to ash.
07-19-2020, 12:51 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 59
Don't get me wrong the oem clutch i have has been working just fine for the last 6 years, and it still works as intended. I was just wondering if anyone has had experience with with these cheaper clutches and how they feel compared to a name brand. I have no comprehension for what a different clutch feels like. Ik the only true way is to feel the difference for myself.
Even a stage 1, does it have that much more grip than oem?
(only thing i would consider ‘slip’? Would be after coming off the interstate after long travel. The city driving it feels like my clutch does slip from excessive heat) which i assume a staged clutch would be more inclined to handle that heat.
Even a stage 1, does it have that much more grip than oem?
(only thing i would consider ‘slip’? Would be after coming off the interstate after long travel. The city driving it feels like my clutch does slip from excessive heat) which i assume a staged clutch would be more inclined to handle that heat.
07-19-2020, 12:59 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 59
07-19-2020, 01:05 PM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 59
My exedy stage 1 was the best clutch I've driven for a 5mt.
More than enough clutch for whatever n/a power any 3.0 has ever out down. Ever.
It died because my 5mt input shaft bearing took a dump, wore the input shaft seal out and leaked gear oil onto the clutch, then started slipping in high gears. And got to the point to where 3rd was slipping and then I 6mt swapped the car and forever hated the garbage can that's known as our 5mt.
#6mtswaptheworld
Now...... If you wanna be cheap.... And you're sure you have the exdstg1...... Just get a new disc (im not sure if exedy sells the stg1 disc alone, but you can get an ACT disc for not too much). Lightly sand the PP and flywheel and send it!
More than enough clutch for whatever n/a power any 3.0 has ever out down. Ever.
It died because my 5mt input shaft bearing took a dump, wore the input shaft seal out and leaked gear oil onto the clutch, then started slipping in high gears. And got to the point to where 3rd was slipping and then I 6mt swapped the car and forever hated the garbage can that's known as our 5mt.
#6mtswaptheworld
Now...... If you wanna be cheap.... And you're sure you have the exdstg1...... Just get a new disc (im not sure if exedy sells the stg1 disc alone, but you can get an ACT disc for not too much). Lightly sand the PP and flywheel and send it!
would exedy use the same pressure plate for oem as their stage 1?
07-19-2020, 04:23 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 80
Don't get me wrong the oem clutch i have has been working just fine for the last 6 years, and it still works as intended. I was just wondering if anyone has had experience with with these cheaper clutches and how they feel compared to a name brand. I have no comprehension for what a different clutch feels like. Ik the only true way is to feel the difference for myself.
07-19-2020, 06:06 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
So you need to do the clutch job over again.
Don't blame the clutch parts. They would have worked out just fine.
your flywheel and pressure plate might still be OK once you remove the oil. I'd replace the clutch disk.
OEM quality or ordinary Exedy should work just fine.
You mention shift quality issues. Which oil do you have in the transmission? Is it GL-4 like it should be, or did you use GL-5? If it is GL-5, how many miles has the car been run like that?
07-19-2020, 06:38 PM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 59
That's your issue. You didn't replace the crank seal like you should have. So the oil has been lubricating your clutch disk. That's why it's slipping.
So you need to do the clutch job over again.
Don't blame the clutch parts. They would have worked out just fine.
your flywheel and pressure plate might still be OK once you remove the oil. I'd replace the clutch disk.
OEM quality or ordinary Exedy should work just fine.
You mention shift quality issues. Which oil do you have in the transmission? Is it GL-4 like it should be, or did you use GL-5? If it is GL-5, how many miles has the car been run like that?
So you need to do the clutch job over again.
Don't blame the clutch parts. They would have worked out just fine.
your flywheel and pressure plate might still be OK once you remove the oil. I'd replace the clutch disk.
OEM quality or ordinary Exedy should work just fine.
You mention shift quality issues. Which oil do you have in the transmission? Is it GL-4 like it should be, or did you use GL-5? If it is GL-5, how many miles has the car been run like that?
My wheels are soon In needing of change, when that happens im going to make the repairs: all around suspension, crank seal, transmission fluid change.
i havent read about issues with the rear seal before, thats inside the transmission? Ill have to do some research on that.
Not 100% but i think we got the transmission fluid changed around the time i got the car, about 25k miles ago. Ill be puting in gl4, probably amsoil i hear its one of the best for our cars
07-19-2020, 07:39 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Alex,
you mentioned the rear crank seal.
also known as the rear main seal.
As the name implies, it lives between the engine block and the crankshaft. They do leak eventually.
Then that causes the issue you are having.
It is always a good idea to replace the rear main seal while replacing a clutch. It might not be leaking at that point . Replace it anyway.
you might be able to salvage some of the clutch parts if you deal with this soon. Expenses will be higher if you put this off.
Did you pour GL-4 or GL-5 oil into the transmission.
the oil type is more important than the brand.
GL-4 is kind the the brass syncros in the transmission. GL-5 has different chemistry. It eats and attacks the brass. Which will cause shifting issues.
Stay-lube or other cheap GL-4 works OK of money is a problem. Many of us use Redline. I've been quite happy with it. I can feel a real difference during winter
you mentioned the rear crank seal.
also known as the rear main seal.
As the name implies, it lives between the engine block and the crankshaft. They do leak eventually.
Then that causes the issue you are having.
It is always a good idea to replace the rear main seal while replacing a clutch. It might not be leaking at that point . Replace it anyway.
you might be able to salvage some of the clutch parts if you deal with this soon. Expenses will be higher if you put this off.
Did you pour GL-4 or GL-5 oil into the transmission.
the oil type is more important than the brand.
GL-4 is kind the the brass syncros in the transmission. GL-5 has different chemistry. It eats and attacks the brass. Which will cause shifting issues.
Stay-lube or other cheap GL-4 works OK of money is a problem. Many of us use Redline. I've been quite happy with it. I can feel a real difference during winter
Last edited by JvG; 07-19-2020 at 07:43 PM.
07-19-2020, 09:24 PM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 59
Alex,
you mentioned the rear crank seal.
also known as the rear main seal.
As the name implies, it lives between the engine block and the crankshaft. They do leak eventually.
Then that causes the issue you are having.
It is always a good idea to replace the rear main seal while replacing a clutch. It might not be leaking at that point . Replace it anyway.
you might be able to salvage some of the clutch parts if you deal with this soon. Expenses will be higher if you put this off.
Did you pour GL-4 or GL-5 oil into the transmission.
the oil type is more important than the brand.
GL-4 is kind the the brass syncros in the transmission. GL-5 has different chemistry. It eats and attacks the brass. Which will cause shifting issues.
Stay-lube or other cheap GL-4 works OK of money is a problem. Many of us use Redline. I've been quite happy with it. I can feel a real difference during winter
you mentioned the rear crank seal.
also known as the rear main seal.
As the name implies, it lives between the engine block and the crankshaft. They do leak eventually.
Then that causes the issue you are having.
It is always a good idea to replace the rear main seal while replacing a clutch. It might not be leaking at that point . Replace it anyway.
you might be able to salvage some of the clutch parts if you deal with this soon. Expenses will be higher if you put this off.
Did you pour GL-4 or GL-5 oil into the transmission.
the oil type is more important than the brand.
GL-4 is kind the the brass syncros in the transmission. GL-5 has different chemistry. It eats and attacks the brass. Which will cause shifting issues.
Stay-lube or other cheap GL-4 works OK of money is a problem. Many of us use Redline. I've been quite happy with it. I can feel a real difference during winter
i dont think there is any issue with my clutch. But i have always wondered how a stage 1 clutch feels in comparison.
07-20-2020, 11:01 AM
#19
No.
They are completely different on every VQ application.
I fckd up one time and got an exedy OEM replacement for my 5mt..... Clutch did not last very long (didn't like 6k launches at the track).
I fckd up again recently and got an exedy OEM for a z on my 6mt, but at least that can handle abuse.
They are completely different on every VQ application.
I fckd up one time and got an exedy OEM replacement for my 5mt..... Clutch did not last very long (didn't like 6k launches at the track).
I fckd up again recently and got an exedy OEM for a z on my 6mt, but at least that can handle abuse.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nadir_s
General Maxima Discussion
26
06-02-2003 07:36 AM