I have a 1999 maxima gle with the 3.0 i recently bought it for $450 to chop up and use the rear quarter for a wrecked maxima i own. Upon further inspection when i got it home i discovered it ran way too good to cut it up but the only issue is it takes a long time to start, a good 2-3 whirls before it cranks over and when you shut it off after about 20 minutes of running it doesnt want to start back up. When it starts up and runs it runs better than my other 2 maximas, which knocked out alot of the things i was thinking fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, cam sensor and so on. No rough idle, no missing or hesitation. I have the scan codes and it says “knock sensor, crankshaft sensor/circuit” and “camshaft position sensor” it supposedly has a new crankshaft sensor and i put a new camshaft sensor on it so im having trouble pin pointing what it could be. Has good fuel pressure. I was almost certain it was the camshaft sensor before i replaced it and im putting spark plugs in right now. Anybody have any ideas on what it could be?

 

When I first bought my Maxima, I had issues similar to what you described it. What helped me get rid of the cranking issue was replacing the crankshaft sensor (located at the bottom of the oil pan), camshaft position sensor (located near the front by the the timing chain cover), and changing the fuel pressure regulator. Granted, I had already cleaned out my TB and IACV but still had the cranking issue. If you have the funds, I do not see any issues with replacing all 3 of those things.

 

Well, just changed the ref crank sensor and that wasnt the case. Gonna try the bottom crankshaft sensor now

 

Hard starts when warm i would normally recommend checking these two items: 1) fuel pressure regulator, and 2) ecu coolant temp sensor

 

Years ago, my 99 Maxima wouldn't start. It was getting harder to get it to catch over time.

Had it towed to a mechanic who previously had one. He said something about corrosion between the transmission and engine that made it hard for the back sensor to read. So no catchy. LOL

He pulled the transmission and addressed the corrosion and fine ever since.

Hopefully those that have been there can elaborate on what it might really take to address this if the case. Of course I live where there's snow and of course.... salt.And on an island surrounded by salt water.

 

Damn, i was kinda praying it’d be the ref one but that sounds about right. I guess im gonna try to pull that one off and check it before i fully give up, has anyone on this forum pulled one? How hard is it

 

I believe you can test for the ground issue (between trans and block) by running a separate ground wire. Can't recall the specifics but should not be difficult.

 

Just to add to this, I just replaced my fuel pressure regulator
before:
'instant' start 10%
'stumbly start' 40%
'several second crank' 50%

after:
'instant' start 95%
'stumbly start' 5%
'several second crank' 0%

Note, my FPR never had any liquid gas in the vacuum hose as is often the case when it fails, yet it obviously was not working correctly.

 

Replaced the other crank sensor on the bottom, that wasnt it. Replaced the fuel pump WITH my other maxima so i know it wasnt the Part, that wasnt it. Its fuel because it fires up right away with a squirt of either, im thinking its the regulator but i gotta take the throttle body off to get to it. Also fuel is coming out od the fuel rail but not the regulator with the lines off? Is that a direct match that the regulators got something bad

 

Would your advice also apply to a '96 Infiniti I30? My I30 has been slowly getting harder and harder to start, now it takes some really long cranking to get it going. How do I check the fuel pressure regulator?

 

Those two I listed would apply to all the cars that I have driven.

There should be ways to do tests for both. I believe for the fuel pressure regulator you would normally unplug the vacuum hose and smell for gas leakage. For the temp sensor (ECU) I think there should be a way to test with a multimeter.

 

Vacuum leak

 

Check the WAX solenoid.

 

Our fuel injectors have plastick pintle caps. They prevent the injector from losing fuel pressure.

A failed pintle cap will cause a fuel leak.
The leak will mean a low fuel pressure situation, resulting in long cranking times. Especially after the car has been parked overnight.

The failed furl injector's electrical portion will still be ok. The check engine light will not set.

One can find which one it might be by removing the spark plugs after the car has been parked fora few hours after it has been driven.

Look for a wet spark plug. Or one which has more of a gasoline stink than the others.

The injector's can be rebuit to like new condition for far less money than buying new oem ones.
I sent mine to Injector RX in Houston. They charge about 18 dollars per injector.

The ones close to the radiator are easy to replace.
The ones by the firewall will require that the upper intake manifold is removed. It's advised that all three of the rear injector's are replaced at the same time. Or you will need to remove the intake manifold again fairly sopn.


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